WIP - Work in Progress Thread

Caustic liquids are okay for metal minis as long as they're not caustic enough to pit and eat away metal. Goof off is used to get rust off metal so it should be pretty good for your uses.

>Acquire a box of Gors for dead cheap from FLGS
One of the regulars got evicted and dropped off literally all his unfinished stuff and bits in the consignment bin. There were some absolute modeling atrocities in there, but the Gors were brand new on the sprue and only missing the banner. I'm pretty excited to start painting them once I'm done with my Skitarii.
I've got pictures of the guy's bad shit if anyone wants to see

pls

Hi guys, I'm wondering as a newbie to tabletop, how much sense does getting an airbrush make?

I understand that it doesn't guarantee easy results (far from it) and needs practice to get good at (in fact that's one of the reasons I have for starting early). I also know that brush work is still needed for good quality results. But looking at a lot of examples airbrush just seems to give plain better results in far less time (also a major concern for me).

Mainly looking at painting vehicles and spaceships, though infantry are also on the cards. The smooth, even finish and better blending are my main draws here.

Pic related, spraying pearl inks and such a massive bonus.

I would recommend it for you because you're playing DFC and the kind of paints you are wanting to use are better with an airbrush.

It's worthwhile for someone in your situation to airbrush rather than paintbrush.

Suggestions for basing colours to somewhat match this.

Awesome, I'm just really not wanting to spunk money up the wall for something that is totally unsuitable for a (relative) beginner. Looks easy enough to pick up, judging by tutorials.

One question for anyone familiar with airbrushes: Any compressors of particular note? Brands to avoid? Airbush itself Iwata Eclipse 0.35 needle seems to come up time and again, so I'll probably go with that.

Sorry to keep you waiting user, I had to go eat dinner.
Thank God I get to get this shit off my chest. This stuff has to be seen to be believed.
Come with me on a journey into a diseased mind.
For context, this guy played Dark Eldar, and only Dark Eldar. Not only DEldar, but Dark Eldar in service to Slaanesh. I think he knows that's female space marine tier fluff genocide, and chooses not to care. Here's what's probably a raider.

How do i paint olive skin ?

>Counting with user!
>Raider
>Zombie Dragon/Terrorgheist
>Maulerfiend
>That's three! Three $50+ kits ruined to make this fucking thing!

This is why you don't prime before you assemble, friends.

got my DVark Angels onto their final bases but there is still a lot of work left to do

upgrading my phone to ios 10 was a mistake. How on earth do they fuck up the ability to mount the phone on every major OS out there?

Unsure how I should proceed with the plasma effects. I've got a glossy blue I might wash them with, or maybe I'll just use a matte wash. Not sure. Either way, I will need to buy some matte sealant eventually.

Most of my pictures are actually of this guy's reaver/seeker mashups. Except for literally one, they're all bad, but I'll try and pick the worst of the worst to not eat up too much of the thread.

At least he had a halfway decent plan to cover up the join, too bad he PRIMED HIS SHIT BEFORE GREENSTUFFING IT

>babby's first greenstuff

>Just fucking chop off the spike and slap the tail on the back, that'll be good.

Out of interest, did you pretend to like the models in order to get pictures of them so you could shit on them on the internet?

>I think he knows that's female space marine tier fluff genocide, and chooses not to care.
Honestly? not too far fetched. Crone world eldar pleasure cults wouldn't be that different from dark eldar if you look at them from the eyes of anyone else.

those conversions are special, though

This motherfucker bought (or stole) an ENTIRE Trygon box just so he could put the mouth parts on TWO jetbikes.
For a unit that has a minimum size of three.

I'm pretty noobish to the whole painting thing, but I really want to do a Nurgle themed CSM army. Anybody got any pointers for a scrub?

No wonder he got evicted. He must have been spending at least twice as much money per unit for his insane kitbashes.

Also, which paint scheme should I do for my Sisters of Battle?

Thin your paints, get a nice fine tip on your brush, and pray to Saint Rhodes before each session

Jokes aside, thinning paints, brush care, and color selection are really important.

>basecoat model
>thin paints, but for some reason looks off and odd
>apply agrax and nuln oil to desired areas
>a million times better
What is this sorcery

Some of this guy's stuff had pretty solid ideas behind it, but the execution was just so bad.
This one especially bothers the shit out of me because I hate the new Haemonculus model, but you can't get the one in this picture anymore.
Use washes friendo. That's a good scheme for Nurgle boys after some Athonian Camoshade on the green and Agrax Earthshade on the hands.

Currently what I'm looking at is Death World Forest, and doing all the armor trim with a brass color like Warplock Bronze or (obviously) Brass Scorpion. What would you recomend I do for the edging, if I just stick with DW Forest?

>Wonders why the two holy oils of Duncan improve the painting
heresy detected

Pls be gentle /wip/, it's only the 4th model I've ever painted.

OK I tried my hand at making Les' magic wash but looks like I messed up my ratio a bit somewhere. The wash seems to be staying on the surface more than Nuln Oil (right mini) does. Do I need more matte medium, distilled water, flow aid? Or is this just the best I'm going to get?

of the colors I've used Vallejo Model Yellow Green comes to mind, but it might not be bright enough

you can also try using yellows

Having more than one metallic really helps a lot, as metallics look best when you apply highlights to them just like anything else

Aye aye, I forgot to say I was going to do the joints and some of the mechanical wires / doodads in Leadbelcher. I can nuln oil both of those, right?

looks like you have the base colors down. Try using a wash, then applying highlights.

Also put the model down when you take photos.

Get ready for some real shit motherfuckers. The Terrorgheist up there is definitely the worst, but this thing is second or third worst.
I don't think the windshield was primed, I think he just put way too much superglue on it.
The way I heard it, he was just a piece of shit human being who let his room rot and chose not to pay rent. If you've read the saga of Luke over on 1d4chan, this guy was apparently not too far off that. Half the stuff in the pile of bits and conversions was stolen from the exact same FLGS I picked these pictures up from.
Most of the sprues and models had pubes on them. Fucking pubic hairs. How do you allow pubes of all things to get everywhere?
Order of the Bloody Rose

leadbelcher can look good with either Nuln Oil or Agrax Earthshade, depending on the look you want.

Looks decent for your 4th model. It's passable though not great. Here is where you need to improve.

>Mold lines.
Strip them down or file them down.
>Thin your paints
It's looking pretty good so far but your base coats could stand to be thinner.

Also would recommended taking a small hand drill and drilling a small hole to form the barrel of the rifle. It's little things like that which make the mini look so much better.

Other than that, few messy spots nit you'll get better with that over time. Also the eyes look really good.

>Most of the sprues and models had pubes on them. Fucking pubic hairs. How do you allow pubes of all things to get everywhere?
I hope you washed them first

not knowing about something isn't heresy. knowing and ignoring thats might be heresy

>Oh that Venom didn't look too bad, it's just got some spikes on it!
Well feast your fucking eyes. There's most of a seeker chariot jammed onto this thing, and I don't think a flying stand would actually fit on it any more.

Faith doesn't need answers. Duncan's holy oils work. It is not our place to question why.

Working a priest, just done washing. Needs a good bit of highlighting and he should look a lot neater.
Part of me wants to freehand biblical text, any ideas?
Was thinking the Latin exorcist prayer

Fucked up my image, didn't post the resized one.
And back view for completion's sake. There's one more thing that I got a hold of, but I've got to take a picture of it real quick.

Fellow nobles, do you paint your Knights all in the same house or do you mix it up? (One Terryn, one Cadmus, etc.)

Also, the WIP dryfit of my second Knight's base.

SOMEBODY GIVE THIS MAN A PURITY SEAL

That idea does kind of look neat if it wasn't for the fact of how much those bits cost.

Image didn't attach.

Inb4 church

>church on the base
I can dig it.

at scale any test on the page you be barely visible. Do some scribbles if you want. Duncan has a good tutorial

youtu.be/MjQS4houOb8?t=5m19s

fine work so far though. I always like that model.

>no (You)s
either I've done something right, or it's all gone horribly wrong

anyway I am hoping some agrellan earth, wash, and highlights can look OK on the Chaplain's base, since I don't really want to buy a box of twenty 40mm bases (and six 65mm?? what uses 65mm?) just for one base.

Did some work on the helmet plume and the crozius (and crozius arm, since I painted it separately from the body it hasn't received the proper glazing yet). I've never done a power weapon before so I tried to do that blending gradient thing people do for their Grey Knights. Each flange of the crozius facing each other is highlighted in light-to-dark in the opposite direction.

They look ace man, keep doing what you're doing.

Here's the official tutorial for plasma, though I cut it down to just 3 on my chaplain. youtube.com/watch?v=lpSVZiYLuPY

Here's the last of it. I'm fairly certain he didn't play daemons or CSM, so I can only imagine this was going to be a pain engine of some form. I think I can salvage this into a fairly decent daemon prince. And then never field it because lolnowings
The guy wasn't there when I took these pictures.
All this stuff just got dumped on the poor FLGS owner, and now he's got to sort through ALL the sprues and pieces that got chopped off the sprues, and put them together into the units they used to be so he can sell them off again. I don't think he's familiar with any bits beyond Chaos Marines, Loyalist Marines, and Orks. The guy who got evicted was kitbashing from:
>Dark Eldar
>Chaos Daemons
>Chaos Space Marines
There's like four dinobot torsos with no limbs or armor to go to them because they've all been glued to some other retarded shit
>Tyranids
RIP that Trygon kit
>Eldar
There's a finecast Howling Banshee sprue that's missing a banshee torso and nothing else.
>Vampire Counts
I wish I got a picture, but the Ghoul King from the Terrorgheist kit has HUGE greenstuff boobs modeled on. Like, bigger than the models' head huge.
>Dark Elves
There's an old metal Cauldron of Blood kit, as well as most of the new plastic one. Also, there were FOUR Sorceress torsos, all clipped off the sprue. No idea where the rest of the kits have gone to.

He stole from the LGS? How did they did they find out about that? Follow the trail of pubes back to his shitty room?

Not going to lie, working on a knight this weekend..have those bits spare and I'm going to take this idea to some degree.

Some of the stuff came back still plastic wrapped in their original boxes with the FLGS's stickers on them. The owner had no recollection of ever selling those things to the guy.

Incredibly new, please be gentle. Who is Duncan (other than I assume some god that walks the earth who can paint) I'm about to paint a lot of purity seals and parchment on my grey knights so this tutorial will be relevant to me

How do you guys do weathering? I'd really like to hear some of your tricks and techniques for bigger pieces.

I finally got this to this point. I still need to glue the shoulder guards and the rear portion of the body on, and I have some more decal work to do before weathering.

I also have to get the banner together - but I've got the hardest part of that, the design done, thanks to a friend who is really good with photoshop. I don't think I could freehand a Titan banner. Maybe someday.

I know it needs more church.

I seen yesterday someone posted a link to a book by a painter that does models for infinity. I think it was Angel something master class. I only have gw mini's and citadel paints but i like the look of this book for the techniques and colour theory sections, any one got this book and know if it would be worthwhile to pick up? I know alot the book looks to be specific army sections which would be useless.

One more I guess. Bits of this are way too shiny. I'll have to tone it down with a matte finish, but 'Ardcoat seems to help hide transfer outlines!

man i cant imagine how much of a pain in the ass it is to keep paint coats smooth over such a large area

looks fan fucking tastic so far

Duncan is a Games Workshop employee who does the painting tutorials on Warhammer TV. He has a very easy-to-listen-to voice but each video always drives home the key points beginners need to know like:

Thin your paints
Get a good point on your brush
Neaten up if you over-wash or highlight.
etc.

He does everything from minute-long short tutorials every day during the week, to hour-plus tutorials for massive models like Archaeon and Alariel the Everthighs. He's really, really good at painting but even better at calmly explaining what to do.

Hey user. Duncan is the guy who does Games Workshop's painting videos. You can see these on the GW site in places or also on GWs YT channel I think.

Duncan Rhodes is a guy that does painting tutorials for Games Workshop in their youtube channel. The tutorials are often very beginner friendly and he has a very soothing style which is nice to listen to while painting.

youtube.com/watch?v=_odi1c7ErCg

In this video he does purity seals. Look around 13-14 minutes in, not sure on the exact time.

Getting back into the hobby and I had a question about the procedure for applying basing material

do i want to apply it to the base with the model before i prime it then paint the flock/gravel whatever afterwards applying things like shrubs last

or do you attach the model to the base and paint it as normal applying the basing material afterwards around the feet of the painted model

our Lord and Saviour

I've done bases all sorts of ways before, but my favorite ways are either:

>texture the base and put the model on before priming

>paint the base and model separately and attach later

in either case, certain elements which wouldn't be painted, like static grass, would be applied at the end.

Most recently I've tried out the GW scenic bases. Despite the crap they got when they were release, I actually think they are pretty nice.

The God Emperor's current disguise.

thanks user! Its not as bad as you think. the big stuff is pretty forgiving.

So, this is like bubba'd guns for Veeky Forums.

My Tech-Priest Dominus is going to arrive on monday and I was planning to blatantly steal pic related's scheme for my AdMech army.

Wondering what I could do for the Dominus' and Datasmith (and possibly Skitarii) robes/cloaks to fit this color scheme. Was thinking that maybe using grey or white instead of silver as the base color might work to keep the blue/green but get rid of the metallic look.

Can anyone think of something else that might work?

How do you highlight shit like armor? Pic related is mine, and I could never get it right.

Anyone got experience with magnetizing leviathan arms?

I got some 45mm rare earth magnets i used for magnetizing terminator arms and considering how well they worked with heavier things like an arm holding up a banner I'm wondering if theyd be strong enough or if i need something larger

Bob Ross of minis. But not -10 HP.

I wanna do a metallic color-shift purple-green thing in my Dung Beetle Knight. What is the best brand for this? Anyone have any experience with color-shifting paint?

I like your idea.

Or just grey would probably work, although I find grey hard to paint.

You could also do a complimentary color like red or orange?

I really like this look - I have been thinking about trying to do something like it. What's do you base with? It's got to be either like a really bright silver or maybe that allclad stuff that people use to get a chromed look?

Didnt exactly think of what to use as my base yet, been practicing on the sprue rest plastic to just get the right amount of green/blue down with just Runefang as a 'base'. Been working surprisingly well, to be honest. Might see if I can just use the black primer I have already at home and paint onto that one and see if that works. Managed to use it for just about everything so far that wasn't actual white.

I kind of like the grey idea too, though that can often look unpainted from a distance and a bit dull, with how much metal is on the figure already. Not sure what to think of the complimentary colors, could work out, though it might end up looking like any old Dominus or not fitting the blue rest of the army at all.

Newbie who just watched Duncan's basic videos explaining the Citadel painting system for the first time, and it makes a lot more sense now. Can someone check if I've got this right?
>Undercoat
Primer, black for dark models or those with deep shadows and white for those that use very light/bright colors, sprayed or painted over fully
>Base
Broad colors on each different "area" of color on the model, form the basis of all colors that go on top and has a tone that shows through under anything else, thinned reasonably and with coats until the primer is concealed but details are unobstructed
>Shade
Also known as a wash, comes already very thin, applied using broad brushes so that it barely dyes the upper areas of the model and seeps into details shading them deeply
>Dry
The "opposite" of shade, very coarse paint that gets no water and needs a dry brush, used to pat "shine" or "automatic highlight" onto craggy/detailed areas of a model like pistons or fur or what have you
>Layer
The last step on the model proper, used to finalize the color on the areas of the model not dyed by shade or already highlighted by dry, a few layers form the "main highlight" while a few key applications of a still lighter color finish very highlighted areas
>Texture
Globby thick paint used to create rough terrain on the base

Of course, I've got a few questions. With washing models that have a number of colors, is it best to use a gray/black/neutral wash so you don't have to totally delete it from edges where it shouldn't be (like blue pooling around skin) or is there a major benefit from using different washes for each colored area and cleaning them with base/layer paint before moving on?
Does dry paint retain a lot of benefit for mainly "smooth" models without lots of metal details? I'm working with miniatures for D&D, so I'll have some hair/fur/metal armor that could benefit, is that enough to warrant investing?

You've got a pretty good understand of it. The one thing I'll add is that Shades can also be applied with a smaller brush to just the recesses / details. You don't have to slop it everywhere, though sometimes that's the intended effect.

I generally wash each area with its 'appropriate' colour, or sometimes a mixture or in-between shade if I want to blend two different colours together. Generally speaking cleaning up with base/layer paint before moving on will give your miniatures a very clean look to them (which depends on if you want that look or not).

Never used the Dry line of paint so I can't comment. You can drybrush using regular paint and an old, fucked-up brush with splayed bristles anyway.

Do you first paint a model's separate pieces, then assemble, leaving assembly spots clear oe do you first assembld completely to have a proper view how every part works together or something between the two?

I like to assemble as much of a miniature as I can without obstructing my ability to paint. I paint those separately assemblies, and then I do a final job with the glue (carefully, to avoid ruining the paint job with a splash of glue).

I typically build the 'core' of the model while leaving things like overhanging plates (hello Ret myrmidon pauldrons) and detail pieces off, then jam blu-tac over any attachment points before priming.
Composition highlighting after full assembly can wait until I have the damn base color at a satisfactory point.

layers are bit more versatile, but for Duncan's method of painting that is mostly what they are used for

Before washes were popular, a way of getting a good strong color was to use many many thin layers of paint over a dark base.

Wash color depends on preference. I would suggest experimenting. Reikland Fleshshade is useful for waay more than just flesh - I use it for golds too.

You can drybrush with layer paint as well, just wipe most of the paint off the brush onto a paper towel. Dry paints were specifically made for dry brushing. I've heard a LOT of good things about the rust paint, but I have not tried it personally.

Smooth models won't have nice areas to dry brush, but you can also drybrush selectively - it doesn't have to be over the whole model!
One more tip: GW paints are actually nice, but don't constrain yourself to just GW. Other brands like Vallejo and Secret Weapon have some really great paints too.

depends on the model.

If none of the parts get in the way of the details, or there are major structural elements, I will fully assemble, otherwise I will do sub assemblies. Not each part individually though. That would be crazy.

I am confused as to how the flg owner came to be in possession of the models and sprues? Was it like payment for all the shit he stole or he just decided to "gift" his abominations to the store owner since he had nowhere to live?

I recall opening up this old ass toolbox with foam cutout to hold models in that someone had left at the local warhams club for months, that shit was rife with pubes.

You pretty much nailed it, one thing though is that dry brush is more of an either or technique, you tend to either dry brush the model for quick and easy highlight or you layer the paints working up to an edge highlight.

Some more advanced techniques from what I can gather is glazing, feathering (I only learned of this in the recent white dwarf) and that's about all I've learned so far.

I wasn't even paying attention to him and I know it's from consignment. Do you even know what consignment is, you uneducated fuck? Pay attention.

when i magnetize heavy arms i put a pin in as well as a magnet for extra stability, so it can hold a pose properly

Did you use primer?

Looks fairly good, considering its your 4th.

What would be the best model to start with on making a Trump SM chapter master?

Calgar.

anyone know what a good substitute for rub and buff pewter guilding wax would be for acrylic paints? trying to replicate the FW iron hands paintjob without an airbrush or the weird specialist stuff

The U stands for USA. Paint his cape like a flag.

The brightest fucking silver you can find. Vallejo's liquid gold would be a good choice but those aren't acrylic either.

I'm guessing one of the Vallejo Model Air silvers or maybe the new AoS Citadel silver. Also depending on how much you polish the paint, the buffing compound ranges from leadbelcher dark to shining mirror chrome.