WIP - Painting/Converting/Sculpting General

No WIP thread on Veeky Forums?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
mega.co.nz#F!Wl5DAbCb!TYxZG4CgX_x-NJu7JBwbZQ

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Reinforcements are en route
youtube.com/watch?v=UID6LEzvRRo

>Previous Threads:

Other urls found in this thread:

img.4plebs.org/boards/tg/image/1484/40/1484409766671.jpg
a.co/iIpyJgm
a.co/6O596F0
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

Cobblestone bases for my devastators, bricks are cut up sprue

Urban Kazak Strikeforce for Infinity. Need to touch up a Spetsnaz kneepad and get the Vet Kazak's hands matching his armor rather than flesh.

Other than that, happy to hear suggestions. Very happy with 'em at the moment.

I'm stealing this.

Alright, so continuing from last thread: I got $50 to spend and am in need of an airbrush to learn with. I was recommended pic related, and it was also suggested I get a 'cleaning station, cleaner, and some brushes' ( ). Now, the brushes I understand, but why the cleaning station/cleaner? Would a small cardboard box + solvent not be an adequate replacement? Also, are airbrush brushes standardized or does each manufacturer/model have their own?

Reposting because I'm proud of it.

Cultist Champion of Slaanesh with Shotgun.

Legs are Daemonette legs spliced with a Kabalite Torso, gun is a Wrack Hexrifle, lash is also from the Wrack box, and the head is a Daemonette head.

My warband raided a Craftworld and plundered it while it was fighting off a Necron war fleet, and stole tens of thousands of Eldar civilians and warriors and brought them back to their Space Hulk to sacrifice them to Slaanesh. However, as the Chaos Lord of the warband believes that the greatest gift one can give Slaanesh is the love of her children, they have begun a strict regimen of torture, Warp exposure, and psychic manipulation in an attempt to convert the captives into willing servants of Slaanesh. Most Eldar cannot handle it, and their bodies are used in sacrifices and distilled into toxins and hallucinogens, but one in every thousand is twisted into accepting the love of Slaanes. These bands, though extremely few in number, operate alongside the regular Marine forces and are herded at the enemy through psychic manipulation by the warbands Sorcerer. They are used as horrifying terror weapons against other Eldar, and their creation has sparked a massive search for their base of operations by many Eldar forces, be they Craftworld, Kabal, or Corsair.

I would actually buy a brandless Chinese brush from eBay for $10-$20. Don't waste a whole $50 on a low end Badger or Iwata. When you're comfortable, spend more and buy a $100-$150 midrange brush like a Badger Krome or Iwata Eclipse, which will be your endgame brush as you don't need a $300 airbrush.

The difference between a shit airbrush and a good one is the smoothness and sensitivity of the trigger (like the gas pedal on a sports car vs. an economy sedan) as well as the general fit and finish of the parts: how tightly the screws fit and leave zero gaps, how well polished and durable the chrome finish is, etc.

For beginners' purposes and simple priming/basecoating, you can use a $20 brush instead of a $50 one.

Thanks for making one. Was waiting for it but had neither the links nor an image on my phone.
Anyway:
I mentioned it at the end of last thread: what are some options to make Celestine transportable? Using a pole like on fliers instead of the seal parchment for a stand would be a decent first step. What about her doves and wings? Any way to realistically magnetize them without it being visible?

Looks good, though. I wish I had an army that could make use of this.

Airbrush cleaning pots just act as convenient holders and liquid catchers. If you don't care, you can just plop your brush on the tabletop when you're not holding it, and you can just spray the excess shit on a towel or box. You don't NEED a pot but it's a nice thing to have.

Airbrush needles should be standard.

totally baffled why the pointing guy is doing drag revue while everyone else is full on tacticool mode, but this scheme looks really nice overall. One distracting moldline on the bare forearm of the "action sniper" but I really like the camo

Anybody got the picture of the Magnus with a LoC head that got posted the other day? Forgot to save it, gonna steal the idea.

try a wash

img.4plebs.org/boards/tg/image/1484/40/1484409766671.jpg

If you squint hard enough, his symbol of Tzeentch belt buckle is actually a scaly serpent penis.

This tack holds together better than I thought. And to think my impression was initially marred by metal figures constantly falling apart with these things. Now I can prime every single piece with an easy mind.

I don't actually see a trigger on that picture, by the way, just a button which I assume works the same? I'll note that and try to figure out what the cheapest but best is based on reviews, then, I suppose. I just listed $50 because that's currently the maximum I /have/ to spend, not the amount I /want/ to spend.

>holders and liquid catchers
Got it. Will print my own, probably.
>needles are standard
Splendid.

a.co/iIpyJgm looks to be the cheapest one, and looks /exactly/ the same as the next 3-4 ones in the list. However, a.co/6O596F0 is the same thing but with 6 "free" feet of hose. So, unless someone has a good reason not to, one of those seems like a safe bet.

Holy shit, that moldline completely passed me by. Thanks. And I dunno in regards to the Vet Kazak's posture. It's one of Corvus Belli's older models, but I've always liked the bastard.

The army's generally painted up green, but given the nature of the battles as well as the Kazak's control of the planet's only spaceport, I thought I'd run with the urban camo look. Sort of Helghast fucked STALKER.

Looks pretty sweet.

The button is a trigger you can push in and out and pull back and forth.

Hey anons, it's too going to be humid all month, so is GW's paint-on Imperial Primer any good?

It's even shittier than most paint on primers. The "best" paint on primers seem to be thinned artist's Gesso, or Vallejo's surface primer. I don't really like Vallejo's surface primer because it takes forever to cure being polyurethane, and it's also not that durable anyway, I wouldn't recommend it for anything but airbrush priming on heavily sealed models or models that won't be touched. Gesso is also going to be either super thick out of the pot or have iffy coverage when thinned.

You're kind of fucked.

Why must there be surprise storms all month in a desert.

Why did I sign up for a painting contest.

Will priming in my garage work?

Perhaps. Open a window and wear a respirator, and you should be fine. Then leave the thing open afterwards.

Another fist today.

I don't have a window or a respirator in my garage. Just a crapload of junk and a fridge.

Can you open the garage doors?
your garage has doors, right?

If they had doors, the hookers could get out. It's really more of an oubliette than a garage, I suppose.

Yeah.

Kek.

damn guy, your just not giving us much to work with here

Thinned with what

Looking crisp and tasty, good work my man.

Milk

Poor slav.

Is not all bad. If work hard, don't get fed to Space Werewolf. Lighting on this one's a bit rough, and I don't know if I did it accidentally or what, but someone pointed out after the fact that the un-transformed one looks like Captain Pronin.

Yeah, the skin looks a little too yellow on your guys. If the lighting isn't behind that, then a glaze is a very easy way of changing that. Solid work otherwise.

Yeah, I'm pretty sure it's just lighting. Also, with that guy I kinda wanna do something to the mane, but I'm not really sure what. Maybe a drybrush on the edges of each layer in a different color, or something. Or maybe just a bit of shading on the veins? I kinda find myself at a lost for what to add, or if I should just leave it be for now.

Base sculpting continued. Starting to look a little better now

Do a standard wash and drybrush to start. Maybe stipple it to make it look mottled in areas if that is your thing.

Any particular recommendations as far as colors go? The other one is getting salt-and-pepper hair, then with a black hulkmode with silver touches to the mane. But with this one, I'm not really sure what would look best highlighting his mane.

So on the black parts of the Cadian IG, like the belt, shoes, and pouches, what should I use to highlight them to make them pop?

What are you using? Doesn't look like green stuff.

Mfw all the colour schemes i pick out look like shit.

Super sculpey. I use that for most general sculpting (bases, bodies etc) and GS or similar only for details.

And what does that tell you?

Just do Ultramarines. They'll look good no matter what.

What would be the easiest way to fix a mold slip with resin?

Putty, some cutting, and lots of sanding. It worked for my chinacast pink horrors.

I have no idea

>Ultramarine leman russes

I've got a chinacast Russ that has a pretty noticeable slip on his leg, but the piece that slipped is so tiny.

Ultramar Auxilia doesn't sound like a bad idea

what does a mold slip look like exactly?

Ultramar Planetary Defense Force is one of the most prestigious and famed PDFs in the galaxy. Some even compare them to the vaunted Guard regiments of Cadia. Truly, these mighty men and women of Cadia are blessed by both Lord Marneus Calgar of the Ultramarines and their spiritual liege, the Primarch Roboute Guilliman.

It's like a really bad mold line you can get on non-plastic models due to the way they are cast. Except instead of just being a mold line, it's like half the model moved one way and the other half moved the other, creating a tectonic plate like a mountain shelf created by earthquakes. Practically impossible to fix if they are more than half a millimeter high as the entire fucking model will have all its details sliced in half.

im guessing cutting the model in half is the only solution?

That's so terrible I actually laughed, but if you managed to do it perfectly that actually would be one of the best ways to fix it. Most people just try their best to sand down the misalignment and usually fill in and reconstruct broken details.

You can just ask for replacements if you bought actual GW/FW stuff that had a slip that's really bad. The best recasters won't be shipping out slipped models either as those are basically defective.

well im wondering how you'd cleanly cut a resin model in half

actually Im also wondering how you cut a model apart cleanly

Thinking of cutting the torso out of a cadre fireblade to make a custom one so they dont all look the same

with a hammer and chisel

Monomolecular blade, obviously.

electric saw am I right?

Jewelers saw. It's even flexible enough to do curved cuts.

You see those jewelers from Veeky Forums? They’ve got curved saws!

looks good but you should either cut the sprue thinner so it looks sunk in the ground or fill the spaces.

Started my own Wyrdwood today

Also started these this morning, they are nearly done. Just drying now.

It's not a matter of material. It's just that the finecast production and qa is garbage so people associate slips with resin. You can misalign any mold.

Hey WIP, how should I base colour my guys? I mean is it better to use a white base or black?

It is a matter of material. Injection plastic steel molds are much more durable and have much higher computer assisted tolerances compared to the soft, rubber molds that are aligned by hand that metal, resin, and Finecast (which are just metal molds repurposed) use.

Done

10/10 would crusade alongside with on my own desert based loyalist army

I really like how the wash and highlights make it look like the terrain is from a video game.

I'm with this guy. Have the perfect use for this idea.

Thanks user.

Cheers! I made them to use on a table i made for a friend. Can't wait to see what they look like on the table. The tiny looks different but the garage has yellowy clear panels in the roof so it makes the table look more yellow than it is. Used the same base colour, sand and washes so it should fit in nicely.

Looks good.

Did you cover the foam in sand, or use textured paint?

Card base for the foam, then watered down PVA sprayed all over. then brushed on paint then another PVA spray, then prayed with the main colour you see there, then another PVA spray and while wet I added the sand to the places i wanted, then let it dry 50% and then sprayed with pva again. waited to fully dry, did the wash, once dry added a few bigger rocks of sand with super glue, drybrushed it and then matt varnish spray.

that's a lot of PVA, but I guess that'd do it

makes me want to bust out the foam and make terrain

If you were to make miniatures from scratch, or from something that isn't initially for the tabletop, how would you approach it?

make a shape out of plastic then glue shit to it

Very early on in the /wip/ stages, first go at a model this sized, what do you think I should do for the ion raker?

you probably dont need that much PVA i was just making sure it was super strong. Especially the piece that bridges over the raider. And was also to make super sure that no spray paint would get to the foam

I would aim to make it as similar to an official model or artwork as I can, or make something with a unique silhouette that works and isn't obviously recognizable as something that it isn't. While not bad quality, your photo is actually a bad conversion IMO because it's too obvious that it was just a Mr. Potato Head. He didn't even cover up the shoe. Compare to pic related.

light blue/white

Tbh I prefer the potato head over this, The potato head looks like a clever conversion and this sorta looks like a bunch of shit glued to a robot.

Maybe the first person to do it was clever.

Can never be too careful with expanded foam, really. I find it's more fragile than extruded.

You don't think thatd be too much contrast? I'm pretty Shit at color theory tho

I get what you mean, but I really think the stompah potato head is a great conversion. The fact that you can tell it's a potato head adds to its charm.

The ion raker is the shooty thing on his right arm? If so, you should go back and fix that very, very noticeable seam all along it.

It's probably too late, but you do that by scraping your hobby knife lightly along it until you can't see it anymore.

What level of sub assembly id adequate for Cawl? Is Duncan's 3-part assembly enough for a painter of average /wip/ level, so not terrible but nothing professional looking, or should I keep sone things off for now, his hood or weapons or something? Kinda not liking the idea of that too much, since glueing cables always sucks, twice more so if painted.

>so what weapons does it have?
>WYSIWYG
>...

CURRRRRVED SAWS

>giant green Mr. Potatohead with angry eyebrows

Counts-as Squiggoth.

You need a pot to clean between colors, AS you dont want to spray your cleaner Ingo a towel or whatever, that shit is nasty. Cleaning pots come with a filter, also much more convenient. That suggested Airbrush is fine, though. Brushes are standardized, they come in different sizes on a keychain.

Progress on the grotesques, they are a nice distraction from the imperial fist scheme.

Holy shit, how am I supposed to transport Celestine and Cawl without literally everything breaking?

Only ways I see for Cawl is either laying him down sideways inside the Citadel transport case or to somehow add a magnet at his hip to detach the upper body.

Only thing that'll probably work for Celestine is fortifying the fuck out of the frail parts somehow and magnetizing the wings to pop them on or off.

with faith. and Tupperware.

>Tupperware
I went over to my mom's yesterday to check her wide collection of Tupperware stuff and even she didn't really have anything I could confidently fit them in.

Almost thinking to just keep them on the shelf and get bases of their size as proxies for actual games.

>get bases of their size as proxies for actual games.

What will you do for line of sight and cover when their height is involved?

Not sure, maybe just some stupid shit like paper cutouts of them in scale or something.

Not going to use them that often anyway, since their strength is almost too much for casual games and my local tourney doesn't allow unique characters either.

I'm going to buy some pluck foam and dedicate a tray to celestine and the geminae.

In the meantime, tupperware, bubblewrap and packing pellets.