WIP General - Painting Converting Sculpting

Do not order the citadel moldline remover. Use that £18 for another box of models.

Get a poundshop knife and use the back to remove moldlines.

Wip overlord for my Nihilakh dynasty

I can only ever in good conscience advise what is safe. I have seen too many

>I spilled plastic glue and now I have a banging headache
>I spray in the porch and /I'm/ fine but my weak ass wife gets a headache

posts to advise less.

If I say 'airbrushing inside is fine, but sort out ventilation if you're doing a lot and wear a mask for lacquers' some NEET will spend his student loan on a top of the line airbrush (which he'll never clean) and use it in a student room the size of a broom cupboard with alclad.

Why are those better?

Alright I'll get another wash then.

It's £8. I was skeptical at first but I thought that curve might be useful for round parts

>Why are those better?

Multipart miniatures instead of monopose, BaC is literally all space marine stuff that codex marines can use and they're great value.

Downside is you get one army and you don't get any rules. DV is still an OK start.

>you can only use the models for one game

Pull your head out of your arse you cunt

>NEET
>student loan

?

Well, indeed. A decorator probably huffs more paint in a day than most people on this forum would in a lifetime of airbrushing.

This is true, but if they're too stupid to follow not just your basic safety advice, but that on the products they're using as well, then that's their own fault.

Sexy multipose heresy models.

fair point brother.

Is it possible to get Nid carapace off the actual models, or is it moulded on to the big guys? I need to armour up some monsters, and I thought that Nid carapace in metallics with some greenstuff rivets would work pretty much perfectly.
If it is sculpted on, can it be removed from the parts without ruining it?

the yellow looks more natural. especially for non-khorne

Black Mage assembled and ready to paint, seeing as someone was interested in it last thread.

I also made his staff slightly more minimalist. My one regret is that the cone part of the hat is a bit too broad at the base, though I like the height and the brim width. It kinda leads to it looking a bit off centre to me.

...

Tyranid Warriors are half-torso pieces (ie. the armour plates are the back half of the torso).
The Tyranofex has a large separate armour plate.
the rest have large sections of the armour modelled on.

Carnifexes have an extra armour plate that can be attached, unfortunately the rest is moulded.

I like your blues and weird-green stuff. I feel like the scythe is a bit bland, though. Any chance of painting some green-glowy effects in the blade-glyphs?

The scythe is yet to be completed. It's still very much a work in progress. Only basics layers down at the moment.

OK then. I should probably have most of two Tyrannofex kits left once I'm done with the stuff I have planned, which should be enough for what I need. I can always use Kataphron Breacher armour or come up with something else if I really need to. Thanks anons.

What is the best place to get really alien looking foliage for bases?

>Order Status: Shipped
The Dark Mechanicus are growing ever stronger.

Are there actually rules for them?

I just received three brushes from Aliexpress. They look good enough but bristles are hard as rock. Should I just give them a few hours in water or use something else?

There are Mechanicum rules, and some interesting options for thralls and such (Revenant Alchemy basically means you have undead ones), but no true Heretek rules yet, but I expect those to come in a year or so.
Xana was the start of it, and Scoria is a nasty bastard.

Nope, but I don't care. I now have so much stuff I won't have to buy anything else but more MTO and the new Tzeentch stuff for the rest of the year. It's not made for gaming, just making a fun army of DM and CSM.

No dont soak them for hours! Just insert them into water, swirl around a bit and then wipe it off on a tissue. Repeat a few times.

well you can use little nubs of clay too - why pay at all? some people care about these things

There are no figures in Horus Heresy that cannot also be used in 40K.

Glorious!! What are you using it for user?

Are you for real?

Space marines are space marines. You can use them for whatever game allows them.

* no plastic figures

Of course you can use them - I'm saying some might prefer the fluffiness of using proper marks of armor for certain games - take a fucking breath, jesus

You're a fucking nonce.

Engage your brain before posting next time

Just an update on some guys I have been working on. Medic is still wip. Havent touched bases yet.

CC is always welcome. I have individual hi-res multi-angle versions as well

Form what I've seen in videos, mags etc, I kow that he plays Skitarii, Deathwatch (had one looooong before the new kits came out), Stormcasts, and has a human BB team. Obviously he must have many more amries.

But the armor designs are entirely different. Some people like the fluff and would prefer to adhere to it. Maybe he wants to play Dark Angels and doesn't want to do a ton of conversions?

why would anyone bother putting in effort when talking to some inbred britbong

Try harder samefag

Americans in a nutshell

I think what my less kind colleague is trying to say is that in 40k, many different marks of armour can be used, so collecting mark 4 would still be fluffy. Even the fabled Ultramarines of Ultramar (in the sector of Imperium Secondus Ultramar no less) have use for armour marks other than mk7, which makes the two heresy sets better if you want to collect either types of space marines.

someone must have made fun of your special snowflake fluff handwaving at the local "high street shoppe" and you've come here to let off some steam behind the mask of anonymity, huh? i hope they give you a little something extra in your "dole cheque" for being so pathetic

Nothing like that, I just like calling out reprobates when I see them.

Haven't you got some burgers to eat?

They might be synthetic bristles that are just naturally going to be that hard.

...

Honestly? Just a fun little project. I think it'll officially be a lore of shadow wizard though, fits the black Mage archetype closest of the empire wizard types.

The Consecrators Dark Angel successor chapter uses nothing but marks II-VI, and owns no VII or VIII.

>and owns no VII or VIII

Heh, poorfags.

Bad pic from a camera that kills highlights but six in one week!

Work in Progress Scibor Muscal. Was making some Tzeentch Dwarves while waiting for the rest of my army to arrive. (these caps are amazing to hold a model while painting)

I'm going to need a lot strength for this.

Nice work.

Anyone familiar with resin casting want to help me out?

I have my mold and im trying to do casts, but the resin just doesnt want to actually go down into the mold. It just sits in the reservoir, causing enormous bubbles, half-cast pieces, and some pieces dont get resin into them at all

You need a vacuum or gravity mold.

looks like you don't have escape vents.
You need a tunnel where the air can get out.
Or you need to pour your resin slower, depending on what you are casting (if its all connected).
Or pour slower. If you just throw the resin in as fast as you can, it sits on top of the tunnels and traps the air.

Can't tell from the picture what you are trying to cast, but either way the air needs a way to get out of your mold.

Wait, those are grenades, right?
thought you just uploaded a miscast there.

Anyway, go slow. Start pouring on the wall next to the first hole and don't throw the resin into the hole directly.

If you have a split mould, i.e. one that is closed at the bottom you can open it up a bit. Makes for more flash, but should get the resin where it needs to.

Or, as the other user said
>gravity mold.
But then you still need vents.

How do FW do their casts without vents?

They have vents, what do you think those gigantic resin blocks attached to FW models are, those are casting channels, the air exits through those are the mold fills up.

Well for stuff that small you can get away without them.
Just saying for a gravity mold you'd need one. Gravity molds are bigger and the pressure of the liquid itself is supposed to push it into all the nooks and crannies, so you don't need a vacuum chamber. Still need to build the mold properly without undercuts and with good channels.

If you are just trying to recast this the way it is in the picture you are probably pouring the resin to fast.
You need to let the air escape while the resin pours in.
If you just fill the reservoir up the air can't go anywhere anymore.

Injection molding. Thousands of dollars of machinery make a lot of things easier.

Im literally recasting FW pieces exactly as they came and im getting enormous bubbles and resin not flowing correctly

Pressure probably

If it's not filling the mold to fast are you using talcum?
Might help the resin flow better too, due to capillary action.

My buddy is working on a primarch

What ya say to this?

...

I have sone bases that are too big for fire warriors, but not quite Crisis sized. They came with one of the 30k sets. What bases are these, Terminator size? Im not familiar with the millimeters of bases yet.

If so, do Krootox go on this size? I'd like to make an alternative to it, possibly Knarlocs if they are.

Mk 3 armor is objectively ugly. Mk 4 looks good with mk7 shoulderpads.

But mk8 with the extra thigh plates looks the best of all

Most likely 32mm. This is the standard size for space marines and many AoS units.

25mm = most IG, fire warriors, other human sized units, and nobz

32mm = space marines

40mm = terminators. I think crisis suits are on this size but I could be wrong. These ones have stubs on the underside.

60mm = dreadnauts, heavy weapons teams

where is this from, what stream?

So I'm torn between buying the Army Painter set on amazon, comes out to just below $2 a bottle and just buying Citadel shit at the local shop at more than twice the cost.

Reason I'm torn is a lot of the reviews seem to talk about how clumpy/runny different paints in the Army Painter set are. As I'm just starting out, I'd prefer not to have to fuck around with getting the consistency of the paints right. Other than thinning them, of course.

I also kind of like how the Citadel line sets up their paints for the different 'stages,' which is probably just a massive gimmick, but hey, if it makes it easier for me to learn how to paint well, why not, right?

The mold line remover is a great but very specialized tool. It's blade is several times thicker than a hobby knife and cleans models very fast. I really like it personally, but it is most useful if you are cleaning a LOT of models at once. If you are just starting or collect a lower model count army it isn't as useful.

If you end up going with the citadel, at least you'd be supporting your local hobby shop, which is an upside.

>mould line remover
>dry paimts
Shit nigga what are you doing

YES SCIBOR

Unfortunately I'd have to go to the GW store rather than a FLGS as the FLGS has paints from years ago. I stopped in there today to take a look and it was a sad sight. They even had a couple of the old-style Citadel paints for sale.

What's wrong with dry paints? Sure every paint can be a dry paint, but in theory the thicker stuff will work better.
At least that's what I've been able to gather.

That reminds me, I need to get some files for the mold lines.

scibor more like sic bro

>What ya say to this?

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

The GW dry paints are even more of a con job than regular GW paints.

What's everyone's opinion on Dry Brushing? I feel like I should properly practice layering, but god damn, Dry Brushing makes it so easy, saves so much time, and the end result looks so fucking good.

Only do it for really dense texture like hair and scales. It really doesn't do the job of deliberate highlights, especially with broader surfaces that you see on your average marine.

i think it makes the model look dusty. i like using it for scenery and vehicles, which would scratch, get dusty, and catch light in a way that reflects drybrushing, but on infantry i think it doesnt look good.
every time i go to my local gw and i see space marines with one base layer, a shade, and a drybrush i feel sad

Doing some Nurgle bikers from ork warbikes, trying to create a mini-theme and downplay the orkyness.

So far there the mechanical Rust

The skeletal Bone that i cannot figure out how to mount guns to without just using the dakkaguns.

And the mutated Rot with daemon parts
(Names also work in progess)

They feel a bit on the light side though.

Any ideas on stuff to add? (besides bikers, GS and paint)

oh look someone who has never used them and experience the joys of ryzarust

>and downplay the orkyness.
Then you should get rid of the front spoilers of the wheels imo.
It's not that it looks bad, it's just immediately recognizable to anybody playing 40k.
Chaos uses different kinds of spiky implements on most of the vehicles, if you want something spoilery try to copy something from the other war/demonicmachines.

The SM frontplate on the rustbike works really well in terms of de-orking it visually.

Gorechosen complete, 1/3

2/3

Okay thank you. I was very confused because my Dark Vengeance has space marines and csm on the small bases, but the 30k stuff i got had bigger ones. Even the unique chaplain

3/3

Silver tower is next!

How so? You get the same amount in each pot and they're the same price as the normal paints.
They pick out light colors that (usually) make for better dry brushing effects. They're also thicker from what I can find about them.
Do you need them? Fuck no, but hey, for shitheads like me who have never painted before it makes things a bit easier to figure out.

That aside, I'm not sure how many paints I actually need. Or even what colors. I'm going to practice on some shitty Battletech figures I have before going to work on my KDM ones.

If I got the Citadel paints I'd probably get the base set, shades, layers and dries. Though that is about $250. Plus I'd probably just wind up getting their brushes.
Fuck me, eh?

Maybe I'll just start out with the Army Painter set, after all. Once I get decent then I'll look at the most expensive shit.

dark vengeance was released before the bases for space marines switched from 25mm to 32mm, and they haven't updated it. They didn't even have a 32mm slotta base until the release of Blood Bowl late last year.

he's just a contrarian faggot that thinks gw paints are a ripoff. They're not the best, no, but they aren't some kind of con.