WIP: Work in Progress

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting guides, Uniforms & Heraldry books, Painting Videos, Visions, ebooks and White Dwarves:
>Currently offline

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Frakken Magnets, how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Previous thread:

Other urls found in this thread:

amazon.com/gp/product/B00NI39OSU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3S4K6706NXVS7
amazon.com/gp/product/B016DSMU0U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AB5587YC0YJLC
amazon.com/gp/product/B010QLOJ3G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3A0GEWNXJ159W
amazon.com/gp/product/B00A39DAMS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A10B6JJWBXLBVD
amazon.com/gp/product/B01M13RWEE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ANCZTVQ47S1AL
amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Dual-action-Compressor/dp/B001TO578Q/
harborfreight.com/15-hp-58-psi-oilless-airbrush-compressor-kit-69434.html
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

Asked a few questions about making barbed wire lately and I'm back with another. What's a good wire gauge for it?

Update on my Skaven Gutter Runner. Happy with how it has turned out, though I haven't washed it in Nuln oil as was suggested, cause frankly I'm scared of fucking it up. This is probably the best model I've painted to date, so just trying to build up the nerve to throw a wash on it.

Just primed a battlesuit wew

Other side view.

Better view of cape pattern. Looks better from a distance.

Try backing off with the camera a bit to increase your depth of field. Then crop to compensate.

I am pretty happy about how this guy turned out.

I'll give that a go. Not a picture-taking guy by trade.

That's not going to increase, depth of field, that's determined by the length of the lens.

And he manages to fit pretty well with the wraithknight's color scheme as well.

>Don't talk to me or my guardian ever again.

not sure how much a difference it made, but here you go.

Cape needs some cleanup on the edges; red is bleeding through.
I like the pattern, as well.

Yeah I noticed that after taking the picture. Will fix it up. I think I need a lamp for my painting station.

Progress on the Stirland Greatsword, I don't think I'll make another Heraldry banner as it's way too difficult. The next one will probably be a skeleton with Victory or Death on it

and I forgot the picture like a moron

Anyone?

My blood bowl team is almost done. Black is finished, just needs the golds, oranges, and bone.

Totally submitted the image. Not sure what happened.

Nice paint job.

Blood Bowl is cancer though.

Hey WIP! I'm wanting to build a more or less (less probably) fluffy Dark Mechanicum army using the Legiold Cybernetica and going with a necron-esque vibe. I'm basing the necron part off the pic of Scoria where if you look closely you can see a tiny necron scarab perched on him.

Anyway, I'm torn between using a 40k Dominus model and building anew Abeyant for him out of a cantopik bits OR using Cawl and converting the legs with, you guessed it, more necron legs.

Thoughts? I'm literally split 50/50 on which way to go with him. My thallax and Castellax are pretty much stock but I used destroyer gauss Cannons for the thallax lightning guns and another necron gun I can't recall at the moment for Darkstar Cannons. I can try to take pics of my WIP later...

How do I get rid of greenstuff? I bought some used chimeras, but one of them has quite some of it. Do I just accept and move on?

usually just scrape/sand it off

...

>Golden Suns Stormhost
>sun is silver, moon is gold
So close, Duncan.

to make home made mourn mountain snow
you'll need
Stirland Battlemire
Celestra grey
Ulthuan grey

Getting around to painting my triumvirate, starting with mister magoo. Wip on the 1st sub assembly.

Those mold lines on the mechadendrites thou

Otherwise it's coming up good so far

So, totally-not-Iron-Warriors posting again. Unfortunately don't have any cropped to size images of the final product on hand, but I do have a previous progress picture (the top of the backpack was later made gold). I'm still trying to figure out what to do for a normal scheme to accompany this veterans scheme. Maybe silver kneepads and shoulder trim, keeping the rivets gold, but would that be too much silver?

truly beautiful
did you saw the Duncan video about it?

I bought this. It's perfect, cheap and I have enough for a lifetime.

Woops.

ayy frenchbro

Not the poster but where? I don't see any.

This is why I post in wip. There's always an autist or two that catch all the mild lines I miss. I love you guys.

pic related, less so on the tail one desu

To be fair, I use a 4k monitor and your image is well over 12"... although I have a super power for spotting mold lines regardless so I'm told. It's a curse, not a gift.

Jesus fuck. Would have never noticed it. Even with you pointing it out I barely see it on my screen.

I'm actually proud of me, I did that on my phone.

>big gold circle
>small silver circle
>flames clearly coming off the bigger, gold circle
The moon is eclipsing the sun you mong

kys

sports ball enthusiast identified.

Mire golem coming along slowly. Should I just leave the main... body? the same green? Kinda confused how to paint something like this.

>caws in eldarish

Also finished the skysplinter box. Had my first game with them yesterday. They killed half a squad of Veterans, and did 3 wounds to Celestine killing her bodyguards before she farted on them and them and blowing them the fuck up

My Blood Bowl Ogre conversion. Nearing the finish line.

I tried doing a mask on my renegade guard. I regret it.

I like it. It has a lovecraftian appeal.

Guess it fits a force of Nurgle guardsmen, right?

No skater skull/10 + splinter shells.

But memes aside it is tabletop ready. I would be happy if half the army's at my flgs would look that good. It's always nice to have a table of fully painted miniatures

Stick some guitar wire from the mouth to some sort of container mounted on the back and you're good to go.

The guys at my store always take pictures of my models on the table, its a pretty good feeling.
Honestly wondering how would i take it further.

Anyone know which kits have the Blood Angels' company transfers? I'm building the 4th company and I'd rather not freehand than many blood drops and knee markings.

Did dakka delete the thread on stripping models?

Why not? That seems like the perfect opportunity boost your freehand skills.

>It's always nice to have a table of fully painted miniatures

Something like this, user?

Most stripping methods will melt it off.

These are the first four minis I've ever painted. Be gentle /wip/.

I think they turned out okay, and I'd feel good about putting them on the tabletop. My edge highlighting is sloppy, and I'm not sure how to improve it other than practice. I've got the patented "nice fine tip on yer brush" but my hands just don't seem steady enough to paint some of the lines.

The horns on the one guy are black just because there's no way I can get to some of the surfaces on them now that I've assembled him. Lesson learned with that particular head: paint it before assembly.

I don't have a drill for the gun barrels yet, but that's another thing that stands out to me. The flat gun fronts don't look great.

Anyway, I'm sure I'm doing lots of little things wrong. I welcome advice and critique.

Just do a headshape and smooth that, let it sit for 15 minutes and find something round in the right diameter you can press into the GS(back of a pencil, straw whatever works as stamp).

How'd you make sure the feet would stand on the same plane?

I can freehand most of it, the problem is it takes way too much damn time.

Lots of grey in there

First and foremost, well done on painting your first 4 models.

You're aware of your mistakes, that's good, if you keep them in mind, you'll progress MUCH faster.

As you said, your highlights are a bit sloppy, don't worry they often are at the beginning.
Have you tried angling your brush to a 45 degree to catch the edge of the model with the side of your brush? That's how your supposed to do edge highlighting, which is the main mode of highlights for SM.

It might sound silly, but thin your paints a bit more. I'll use the image of milk consistency, your paint shoudl be like milk. What helped me visualise the right consistency was a dude using a test tube with water and another with milk in it. Milk would go down the end of the tube like water, but slower, and still leave a riny trace after itself. That's how your paint should behave on your palette.
I know it's tempting to try and cover everything as fast as you can but taking your time is essential.

Cont.

Most of that is actually painted grey, though there are a couple of FW pieces that hadn't been painted yet.

Cont.


Don't overload your brush either. Even with proprerly thinned paints, if you have too much paint on your brush it will fuck it up. Remember, most of the time, only the tip of the brush should have paint on it.
To make sure your paint isn't too watery on your brush, use a tip an user said a couple threads back: very lightly make your brush horizontally touch your tissue, parallel to it, let the moisture be absorbed by it. Flip your brush and do it on the other side of it, again, very lightly, and you should be good. If you followed everything you should have a brush with enough paint with the right consistency. It is not a sin to go back to your pallette for more paint when you're done applying your first load, so no need to overload.

Finally, brush control. It's there, vut you can obviously make progress on that. Remember to brace your wrists down on the table and stick your hands together to have a steady hand. You'll learn how to control your brush with time. I weep when I see the difference between the 1st guy of my 1st squad of IW and the last one of the same squad, so don't worry it comes fast if you concentrate, brace your hands and take your time. In due time, you'll manage to do the eyes, that you have left at the basecoat stage for now.

So keep at it, and keep your mistakes in mind to avoid reproducing them.

Thanks friendo, this is all good advice. By your description it sounds like my paints could definitely be thinner than I've been making them.

The idea of doing more details inside the eyes sounds crazy to me right now. Just getting them filled nicely was very difficult. I'm sure it'll seem more feasible as I keep going.

Hey, I was there as well. As a dude who paints a lot of gray dudes, I can attest to that.
More players here have stuff painted than unpainted.

Sorry to do this but.. I'm just getting started and buying some brushes, which two sets of brushes from amazon would be best suited for mini painting?
amazon.com/gp/product/B00NI39OSU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3S4K6706NXVS7
amazon.com/gp/product/B016DSMU0U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AB5587YC0YJLC
amazon.com/gp/product/B010QLOJ3G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3A0GEWNXJ159W
amazon.com/gp/product/B00A39DAMS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A10B6JJWBXLBVD
amazon.com/gp/product/B01M13RWEE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ANCZTVQ47S1AL

I'm not sure if I'm missing anything or if I'm getting brushes not suitable for mini painting.

Looks fine to me mate. It can be hit and miss with a lot of brushes, also depends on your painting style, as well as how harsh you are in terms of cleaning and actually painting.

I recently bought a set that is identical to the third link you posted, although the brand is different the brushes are the exact same, so far they have been great.

Just right for picking out detail as well as the variety to allow application to the larger areas on the miniature.

Best of luck anyway mate.

If those are Night Lords don't forget to ruin your models with sloppy freehand lightning all over. It's good practice.

Based Cockcrafter has spoken.

thanks, I ordered them and one of the fine detail 8packs... hopefully it's enough to paint the minis I got. Also got alot of stuff from Aliexpress. Trying to get my hobby supplies as cheap as possible, and I'll post what is good and what isn't so future people just getting into the hobby can know some inexpensive options

Mate, if you're gonna post at least post a new image, I've seen this fucking picture for at least the last 3 threads

I recall a step by step tutorial from many years past about a white space marine helmet. It had to do with shading it with a wash, source lighting on the eyes, and small bits of chipped paint effect. But for the life of me I cannot remember where it is.

Can anyone help me out?

Details look a bit clogged, did you spray basecoat it? I've noticed that even when i'm the most careful i always manage to clog details with spray...

To user who posted about Blue stuff and Lego trick. Thanks a lot man! Sadly I've managed to get to Veeky Forums only by now and could not reply to you in previous thread.

You are the man)

Any swedes here that know how to strip paint from plastic minis? Do i use t-röd or grönsåpa and scrub it with a tandborste?

No problem user. Glad it was helpful. Well wip here's my progress on that seraphim. Just got the base coat on. What do you all think? Any commentary ot advice.

T-Röd works well, although it's not a bad idea to give them a windex/ajax bath afterwards to get the rest of the paint off.

...and it's upside down. This is what I get for phone posting.

saved

Hey guys, why do we never talk about Gunpla in these threads? Just looked into it and it seems kinda cool, I even found a little hobby blog that seems to do a good job of explaining it. Is it because you don't have to paint them?

People who have done custom casting

How difficult would this be to cast properly?

You'd have to be careful about where the seam on the mold went, but I think that would be doable with a little effort. Might have one or two failed molds before it works out right though.

depends what molding material you're gonna use, with rtv it might be pretty easy i think.

I've got all this stuff and more to prime. What's the easiest way to go about doing it? Doing all at once? One at a time?

I did say I didn't have a new photo on hand. I've been trying to get feedback for a couple threads now. That one's done and been done, the finished image is what I posted last time. Don't have everything when I'm away from my PC, camera, and models. Simple "yeah, that's a good idea" or "no, do x instead" is enough.

Perfect, thanks alot!

blutack and a steady hand, propping the legs in position on the feet while superglue dried

What is best beginner airbrush? Is it hard to start using one?

I recently bought some flames of war shit to build for fun

Okay, this one should be right side up.

Iwata Neo is pretty dang good.

amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Dual-action-Compressor/dp/B001TO578Q/

How is this?

Or this harborfreight.com/15-hp-58-psi-oilless-airbrush-compressor-kit-69434.html

So this isn't really a WIP, even though it is.
Sat down tonight, painting with my son, trying to make him catch some interest in this hobby. He´s only 4 years old, but already finds it fun and "different" in terms of painting.

Anyways, this is a picture of a 5 minute dry-brush job I did at the time. Its by far the best things I have painted, but it brought me back somehow. See, when I started this hobby, it was me and two friends. Our parents where to busy being "adults", doing "grown up stuff" (aka; smoking, drinking coffee and complaining to other adults the hardship of being a grown up....), and no one was there to coach us in terms of community or such. See you have to remember this was was way before the age of the internet!
Now days, you can get a tutorial at the click of a button. You can order stuff on a whim! Just about anything is possible now days it seems, you don't even have to come up with army-lists of your own for Christ sake!

So when viewing this model, this 5 minutes of painting model, I remembered my first miniature. And let me tell you, it looked like shit! Like a turd, left in the sun to dry, that was my first miniature a good 17+ years back. And had I the slightest of help, producing anything like picture related, like a full army, it would have made anything (at the time) that I had painted, look even more crap! Hell, it would have been viewed as the best painted army in the area when finished, by a long shot! And still... its just a 5 minute dry-brush.

sigh....

"its FAR FROM the best thing I have painted...."

Kind of mess up the message don't you think?!?

Haha, and I had just started a "first steps" post - either way that was heartwarming to read. :)

if you dont like an excuse to eat chips and dip washed down with beer for 3 hours I dont know what to say

>harborfreight.com/15-hp-58-psi-oilless-airbrush-compressor-kit-69434.html

Looks decent enough, but without having used one I can't really say.

This is actually the kit I have, that I use with my Iwata Neo. Some notes from personal experience:

- First time I tried to use the glass jar, the plastic lid broke
- The metal cup is nearly impossible to use. It doesn't stay attached well, and it's at a weird angle. You'll likely end up dumping paint out of it while trying to use it.
- The compressor does NOT come with a pressure regulator. It sprays at 58 psi, and ONLY at 58 psi, which is WAAAYYY too much for painting minis. That said, I was able to find a pressure regulator on Amazon for pretty cheap.
-Otherwise (using the Neo), the system works great!

Except there are far less boring ways to do that.