Work In Progress (WIP) General: I'm making a lightbox edition

sick

i love it, user. I've been watching since you first posted and you just keep getting better

2 more tutorials to go from this game and I'm done, fuck yea!

Trying to decide if I should use an airbrush for the Cyberdemon. It's huge and it's the perfect model for airbrushing but is it unreasonable to do the basic colours with an airbrush and then paint in the rest and tell people to dry brush for similar results in a tutorial?

If you're doing a tutorial then the model you show should be painted using the methods shown in the tutorial. It's a little bit weird otherwise - "Hey guys, this is what this model looks like when you airbrush the base colours on. You guys can use normal brushes I guess but I don't know how it will turn out because I didn't do it." I'd say you can get away with priming/basecolouring it with an airbrush provided you say that and then say they can achieve the same effect with spray primer and coloured aerosol paint like Army Painter or something. Are you doing video tutorials or image based ones?

Video tutorials. I've done the entire Doom box game but the Revenant and Cyberdemon.

Groin Kikka here. Getting some more WIP in on my mount. He'll hopefully be done this weekend.

My only complain is that scroll's writing

Very well done but being all green makes it dull imo, maybe add some dark stripes in the back

Re-posting since the other thread died.

why did your friend quit 40k?

Also my brother wants to sell his chaos army and start a different army, he cant into chaos lore and doesnt like their play style, specifically their reliance upon the warp.

He has
30 chaos space marines
20 blood letters
Skarbrand
demon prince
blood charriot
forge fiend
sorcerer
10 terminators
rhino
10 chaos assault marines

how muhc can we expect to sell this for and were should we sell it (ebay?)

also what would tg recommend that he play as if he didnt like chaos.

have you ever played in a blood bowl league or just with other people in general? I dont have any actual star players as they cost a shit load, would they allow me to proxy if i specifically mark him (like paint his base red?)

very well executed, I like how you highlighted the spikes on his back and I love the eye

2 things
First I agree with this anonNot sure if its the lighting or camera, but the green just kind of blends together, I see those highlights, but you need a diversity of color on the guy

two, If you have an airbrush consider maybe dulling him down a bit with some matt spray, He is a bit shiny

Besides that veery well done,

Also how do you do the spikes and teeth? I am painting Skarbrand rn and dont want to fuck his spikes up.

No u.
Thats one of the older pictures. It's incredibly hard to photograph something that small with poor lighting. Most spots are covered now.
I added another coat of Leadbelcher to the sword though.

I bring shame to Fulgrim and our glorious legion. Help me improve.

>Had the terrible idea to paint them after assembled
That's what I get for playing before painting.

>Purple layer got all patchy and shitty
I wanted to make this purple layer less heavy and have some transition in some point, so i though I could mix it up with some medium and make multiple coats.
For some reasons, it didn't work. With normal medium it gets all patchy, and with glaze medium is all like dust. It was horrible. It do not show in the picture, but it looks so bad in some points.
How can I solve this?
Somebody told me it's the purple pigment that does that.

>The worst white in history
So, I started with a bright grey, then shade it with nuln oil, and then the white. But this made the borders either dirty, heavy, imprecise or downright ugly.
What if I take away the nuln oil, and use a pale grey wash at the end? Could it work?

>The Ivy was a nightmare
Gluing etched brass on a round surface is terrible, and I made a lot of mistakes. But I like the theme.

>I just give up at some point with the highlights
So, yeah, I can do better. I just didn't want it.

>666
Huh. I guess Slaanesh approve though.

>Had the terrible idea to paint them after assembled
I almost always assemble before painting, Except for a couple exceptions, It is almost always better to assemble then paint since you only pain the areas that can actually be seen and dont waste time on parts that cant bee seen. The only thing I ever leave off are Bare heads and bolt guns.

>The worst white in history
Pure white is basically impossible to do IMO. Grey is much better since it comes out a lot less chalky and wont get dirty as you handle it in the future, next time just leave it a really light grey and noone will notice.

>Purple layer got all patchy and shitty
There are plenty of videos on how to wet blend. I wouldnt really wet blend on a marine though, that type of blending style best lends itself to clothing and flesh. I cringe when people wet blend marines because in reality its just flat armor plating and it should not have those wacky transitions on it.

>The Ivy was a nightmare
Only worked with brass a little but the best way is to shape it first then past it on. Get the back of a spoon and work in those curves before trying to apply it.

>I just give up at some point with the highlights
Your highlights are ok. Lots of people on this board go way to heavy and add way too many line highlights and the model ends up looking like its just come out of the fucking matrix. Avoid this

Overall its not really that bad, its actually decent. But fix their faces a bit next time.

Slaanesh's magic number is 7 you goddamn faggot.

>this faggot

7 is nurgle

...

>First coat smooth as fuck
>Oops missed a spot
>I'll just...
>Facemelt.jpeg

Every time without fail.

That are actually very helpful advices.
Thanks.

Where was this user like 10 days ago when I was trying to paint my shit

Needed this advice.

Noice!

I especially dig the colour scheme, so don't trust the naysayers lies. The way you've painted him just makes him appear as a more realistic gigantic lizard.

Autocannon is love
Autocannon is life

7 is the number of nurgle, thus he favours plasma and Autocannons above all other weaponry.

Would painting Black Primer > Red Base > Metallic layer > Red Layer / Highlight > 'Ardcoat work to give a sort of candy red car color? I'm working on a knight and I like that kind of shiny red you see on cars and whatnot.

Somewhat similar to pic related.

Almost done with my interrigator chaplain, about to finish painting my blood vowl team for tomorrow

Lovely. Good pick on green/yellow theme too.

This guy does not get enough recognition, he teaches you how to paint above ducan level tutorials

m.youtube.com/watch?v=z5Wrrx-m_zk

I really need to invest in a nice airbrush at some point soon.

Thanks though! I'll watch this all the way through, it looks like I was on the right track, this will help a lot.

THICK YOUR PAINTS!

Anyone else here get bored when batch painting or painting the same type of model over and over again? I've been trying to get through 15 of my 60 tactical marines and can't stay interested in painting them.

yes
I usually dont batch paint unless they need to be done in a hurry, and if I do i watch a movie aswell of play some music.

Yes.

If I'm batch painting I limit myself to five guys at a time, and alternate armies.

5 Tacs then 5 Crons then 5 Tacs (Or something else) kind of thing.

Only works though because I'm burning through a huuuuuuuge backlog of 10k+ points and about 7 armies.

My strategy is to alternate model types. Paint some dudes, then a vehicle, then some dudes, then another vehicle.

Lookin good! Tell me his name includes a reference/pun to a croc or an alligator.

I have several batches underway. I really try to limit myself and think I'll finish one project before starting/ building another but as it stands, I have 4 IW, 3 Charcharodons, 2 Orruks brutes, 10 Ardboyz, 1 chaplain and 2 SC in various stages of painting. Don't even get me started on my backlog. Hopefully I finish the Charcharodons this evening.

Pics if you do please user, I'm kicking around some ideas for a carcharodons army myself and would love some inspo.

they don't look that bad tough

Unfortunately I've just started these guys, so apart from the mk7 here, none of them are finished, and even the mk7 doesn't have tribal markings. I'm thinkibg of getibg some micron pens, black and white ones, to do them.

Highlights are missing and I just had to bluetack them as they were all separate parts beforehand so don't worry if the pose are wonky and all.

I really hope the next HH plastic box is mk5.

God, yeah, I am not looking forward to doing my polynesian patterns on my guys. Bad at freehanding at the best of times, so I might just do the armour up to standard then worry about those later when I'm a bit more confident.

I'm using some converted CSM bits for Mk5 armour, given the helmets and non-mutated armour pieces seem to take most of their cues from Heresy armour. Clipped and filed down the horns on a few of them, think it looks alright.

Also forgot to tell you while trying to provide constructive reply that these boys look pretty great and thanks for sharing.

Yeah at some point I fear I'll have to cadh in and buy some stuff from FW. I intend to get Tyberos anyway so I'll probably get a bunch of mk5 at this point. Funnily enough he wasn't affected by the price hike and ends up cheaper than most modern plastic characters.

Am batch painting blood bowl

Does tg like my trst model?

1/2

2/2

Pretty fucking solid honestly. It's not your first model is it? Cus that's pretty good.

Looks nice, good vibrant red and a clean style. I think the blue needs some highlights or to be brighter in some way as it's a little dull, but a whole team painted that way would look great.

Basing needs some work though.

Ya im going to be airbrushing highlights on the rest of the models and the base isnt done, Just wanna get these 12 guys done so i can play tomorrow

thanks and ya definatly not my first model

My very first blood bowl model thought.

Also how does tg prevent wrinkles in decals?

What do you use to soften them

sorry if I sound rude, but haven't you posted in an older /wip/-thread?
the model looks nice

ya but noone responded so i re posted

but, I responded...

lol whoops must not have seen it

I use the phone to post it and then browse on my laptop.

I'm going to be painting an Orc Blood Bowl team in these colors my team's name is a pun on Ravens but I'm not really sure how or where each color should go. Any suggestions?

white for the accents and stripes with a black helmet and blue armor

the tan can be used for the cloth.

/WIP/, I need your help. I'm painting the Last Chancers, and all the models that don't have sleeves have this arrow mark raised on their skin. I'm trying to make it look as though they've been branded, so in the pic I painted the skin as normal then painted a light glaze of Bloodletter over the mark. It doesn't look right to me though, so I'm looking for suggestions.

too much primer bro

Yeah he's on sale for about four bucks from one of my chinamen but I might go for the FW version myself just because the price difference is inconsequential.

I usually use "normal" red for that

Was tossing around ideas, and thought of making a sort of Tau Familiar. Would anyone be interested in seeing how it goes?

A smaller drone with little spider legs, but i dont think he'd fit onto the base of any of my guys, except a Crisis suit or larger(unless ethereals are on larger bases now too). Any thoughts?

I'm going to make my own bloodbowl board out of square bases. I'm going to need 390 in total. Where's a cheap shop I can get them in bulk?

I thought it was a drawing first time I opened the picture, don't know if it's coming from the paintjob or the photo but well done.

Something like that probably isn't going to be cost effective to buy (rough math puts you at @ $70 worth of untextured bases, at best). If it were me, I'd grab something like a Hirst arts floor mold and some dental plaster (or more likely, just make my own mold).

try mantic
manticgames.com/mantic-shop/painting-and-modelling/bases.html

In what order to you guys paint bases and glue the minis to them? What I mean is I'd love to finish a base, and then glue mostly painted model on top. Obviously it's a problem, since the surface area is no longer flat, so I'm stuck with using PVA glue for that, and it doesn't work too well

I normally just make sure i've got a flat spot to attach the miniature to after i've dry-brushed the base, any odd looking attachment issues are covered up when I add flock/more details over the base.

Any specific trick to having a flat spot? Also what glue do you use for that?

>how muhc can we expect to sell this for and were should we sell it (ebay?)

eBay's a good bet, as is Bartertown. You could maybe get $150-$200 unless - since I know all these models are plastic - your friend did a hideous job painting them and they are beyond salvation. Then he'll be lucky to get much of anything for them.

I'll either mark out where the mini is going on the base and not apply basing material there, or more often than not I just pose minis standing on flat bits of cork/slate or something.
Old picture that hopefully shows you what I mean.

>I really hope the next HH plastic box is mk5.

Brother-Sergeant Brutus agrees!

Honestly not looking forward to painting that many molecular bonding studs again, though.

I normally just mark where it's going to go beforehand.

>Also how does tg prevent wrinkles in decals?

As a Blood Angels player, I have a bit of an advantage over ladz like the Imperial Fists or White Scars.

You've no doubt noticed that flat decals don't do well on curved surfaces, and are just plain difficult to apply to the 3-dimensional parabolic solid that is the Space Marine pauldron. The trick is that with Blood Angels, you can slice through the decal with your hobby knife beforehand, severing one or both wings from the blood drop. This makes it easier to apply, since not all the surface area is connected to each other - sort of like the difference between a Mercator projection map and a Goode homolosine projection map.

>What do you use to soften them

You can get "decal set" from your local hobby shop. I've heard it's just thinned down vinegar, though.

Got it. Thanks Anons

I've since cleaned up the lines and mud on the glowey thruster bits, but here's my Dreadclaw result.
Glorious, gaping, golden asshole dentata.

The good thing with those studes is that it's easy to do, even if it's boring.
Doing studs is fine, edge highlights all the armor just fine is hard.

how the fuck are people supposed to deploy from that shit

Jumping through the asshole.

getting shat out

I posted this the other day but I'm still looking for some feedback mainly on the base.

I don't really like how it turned out. I don't really have any idea what sort of basing style to actually do this army with.

One down, one to go...

whats the best way to go about basing your miniatures?

Assemble the model to the base, add flock then prime?

I realized that I fucked up and primed a large portion of my army without putting anything down on the base

could I try add the flock, remove the model from the base, prime then re-add it?

His name is Snaggle-Toof.

More or less finished the bulk of the assembly and magnets for my first Havok squad. My question now is should I put the backpacks and shoulders on before I paint? I don't remember them getting in the way as much as the weapon did on my test models. Same for the head since the mkiv arms are kept much lower than the mkiii

Don't.

It's only a minor gain of time comapred to putting them on paper clips with glue/bluetack, but can be annoyin as shit when you least expect it.
I know the feeling of wanting your model to take shape quickly, but I always regret it at some point when I go along with it.

Hey guys, I am starting a army of Ynarri that is all harlequins and dark eldar. There are a lot of thin little pieces and easily breakable parts. What is the best way to transport my army? I have battlefoam for my tau but I don't think it is a good idea for the Ynarri.

fuck this guytotally assemble the model, Anyone who tells you to not put the shoulder pads and backpack on are total retards unless you are doing a professional job or contest piece

saves you so much time to not paint pieces of the model that cant even be seen. On top of this having those parts on give you perspective on the model in regards to highlights and looks a lot better

I hate when people on this board say leave off the arms and shoulder pads and back packs, its teh worse advise ever

There are two products call microsol and microset. Microsol dissolves the decal material making it thinner and more flexible while micro set fixes the decal and puts a thin film on the mini so the boarder of the decal can not be seen. After than I would suggest a coat of varnish (matt coat for unless you want it to be shiny shiny.)

I disagree with you

I disagree as well. And that's coming from someone who has painted over a hundred marines.

You don't need to prime or paint flock.

If you need to paint a rock or some shit, use paint on primer.