Repainting minis

So, Up until this point i've been painting using nothing but 50c acryllics. it as pretty sucky. I'm pretty sure i've been insulted by like 25% of tg for it.

Got myself some real paints (pic related) How do I clean off the old shitty stuff?

Dettol or Simple Green, depending on which country you're in. Soak, then scrub.

Nail varnish remover works as well. It melts resin models though.

>bought into the Citadel paint meme
Well, your wallet hates you, but at least you got some quality paints.

It's funny, I use the cheap ass craft acrylics myself and get plenty decent results with them. I guess I know how to thin them decently or something. I'll admit it does take longer to thin coat with them because the pigment isn't as strong, but two extra coats is worth saving all that goddamn money.

Also remember 75% of the 25% of Veeky Forums who've been shitting all over your previous paint jobs have a miserable pile of grey sprues sitting in the corner of their room and haven't picked up a brush since third grade.

You've made the right decision picking up the good shit, though. I look forward to seeing what you get up to in /wip/. Happy painting, user.

Would you mind sharing some of your handiwork, friend? Genuinely curious, because my wallet is hating me enough as is and I use a 60:40 mix of Vallejo and Citadel paints.

It would be nice to see how far those craft acrylics can actually get a brutha

amused you think I bought 'em.
I called in a few favors. High Charisma Nerditry for the win.

Soak em overnight in Simple Green and then scrub em with an old toothbrush.

I don't have any pics on hand, but I will be honest with you: You'll get tabletop quality, and that's it. You won't win awards, and you won't wow anybody. Also, if you do go cheap only do it if you can get a good deal on medium to thin them with. Water is... pretty fucking meh, and will make you have to coat even more as a result, which can make them look a touch grainy. Personally I'd hold out for sales on P3, Vallejo, or Reaper, and get those, unless you have a line on cheap medium, dropper bottles, and don't mind taking longer to paint your minis with paints that automatically lower the ceiling of how good they can look.

I say "decent" but at risk of sounding like I'm moving the goalposts here, I mean "tabletop quality", so if that's fine by you, get a few bottles and give it a shot. You can at the very least use them for basecoating and the expensive stuff for layering and whatnot. That'll stretch your dolla bills a little too.

Well since buying things is the typical way to acquire them, yeah I did. But good on you for scoring cheap, quality paints user.

>Dettol

Don't use it, it contributes to bacterial resistance.

You can soften the acrylics by soaking the minis in isopropyl alcohol for at least 24 hours. More if they've been caked on for much longer. Make sure they're fully submerged and in an airtight container.

Airtight? i'm gonna have to ruin pops' good glass tupperware.

Why airtight?

Not him, but I just throw mine in an old bowl and leave it on the counter. Not as fast but it gets the same results

There's this stuff called SuperClean, sold in the US in big purple gallon jugs. you can find it in the car fluids section at your local wal mart. Soak for 24 hours, then scrub with water and a bristle brush. Paint comes off easy as fuck, plastic is untouched. It's also biodegradeable. It will, however, burn your skin, so wear rubber gloves when working, and work outside because the fumes are strong af.

I use Purple Power and a sealed glass jar.

Stuff manages to wreck paint and glue while leaving the plastics fully intact.

>airtight

Because IPA evaporates the higher the concentration, of course. If you keep it shut, it'll be potent for cleaning off a couple more batches.

And dude just buy a cheapo tupperware or a mason jar or something. It's not that expensive.

>How do I clean off the old shitty stuff?

Pic related. You'll want to use CSC. It's an automotive parts degreaser, but the stuff works very well. I've used on GW plastics, old metal, resin, etc, and never had a issues with it. It will debond super glue, but doesn't bother epoxy or resin work / green stuff.

1. Get a decent sized glass jar with lid. Place minis in jar and cover with CSC.
2. Wait - I usually wait over night or a few days, but I've left plastic in it for 3 weeks without issue. Paint starts to slough off fairly quickly.
3. Use a pair of plastic cleaning gloves (and perhaps some eye protection) and an old toothbrush - rinse minis under running water / scrub with toothbrush.
4. Let minis dry.
5. Prime / Repaint as you see fit.
6. Profit!

Also, if someone suggests using Dot3 Brake Fluid - punch them in the balls. Punch them so hard they can't walk for a few weeks. That shit is toxic as Hell. I've seen people get cancer just from reading the label. True story.

Hey guys, I've used Super Clean before with good results, but I tried it recently and had a problem.

The minis were primed with Army Painter spray primer, specifically the Skeleton Bone color. The Super Clean striped the other colors off but not the primer. Scrubbing with a toothbrush doesn't get them but it kind of scrapes off with my fingernail.

If the primer was just still on solid I don't think it would be bad, but since it kind off half ass comes off I'm apprehensive to paint back over it.

Any ideas?

This has happened to me before too. I just did my best to scrub them off after another soak in some degreaser, then reprimed and painted, and it was okay. Still a bit worried the new paint might flake off since there isn't a bond like there should be, but i seal all my minis so it should be okay, I hope.

makes you think why GW has not developed their own paint stripping product yet...

mhhhh

user, all paint jobs are perfect and beautiful as long as they're done with two thin coats(TM) of Citadel(TM) Paint(TM).

And more importantly, god forbid you give the children ideas about buying secondhand models.