Work In Progress /wip/

Thin your model railroad materials edition

Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>Panther, I need Charlie Zone status. Report!
youtube.com/watch?v=YzWP-C8oDPw

Other urls found in this thread:

youtube.com/watch?v=m3p_VuPIS2c
twitter.com/NSFWRedditGif

good someone fired up a new WIP thread

I was looking for some advice on doing tattoos/body markings. I'm doing some models that I want to do tattoos on, and I'm mostly just curious if I should be doing them before or after a wash?

I'm concerned because I normally use Reikland Fleshshade for a flesh wash but some of the models are going to have blue tattoos or face paint. How do I do that without the red muddying up the blue?

Previous thread:

Working on my leviathan dread, I think it's going really well although still a long way from finished. Nothing like a warm summer night with a beer to get things done!

Love the honeycomb pattern.

What does /wip/ do when they just keep fucking up? I've dropped the miniature I've been working on three times and drilled straight through the arm while pinning it.

>when you use the wrong primer on your bases

Waiting for them to dry and praying they aren't fucked up. But if they're not I can finally get my painting back on the road after hiatus.

Late WIP of a Chaos Termie Lord. Any thoughts Anons?

...

Pretty cool, I like the red on the cloak, I can never do fabric and cloth for shit

...

...

S'okay user, I mean you need to tidy the camo up. Otherwise fine.

>Want to get back into mini painting
>Old paints either gone or dried up
>Looking to replace 20+ paints

How good is the Vallejo Model/Game Color range? I like to use acrylics and it seems to be the one to go for in terms of color selection and package deals.

I use Vallejo a huge amount user, they're really good.

I've tried using printed background instead of just piece of white paper and I'm quite happy with results. Also I've realized, that I still have so many stuff to highlitght on them, and my game is at tuesday.

VGC is okay, but i had several issues with separation and just bad quality on certain colours. Vallejo Game Air metalics are super hot and worth every money. Atm I'm mostly using citadel (even tho pots are worst than dropper bottles) because I like their coverage on base range, washes and several layer colours (like sotek green).
If I were you and comming back to hobby, I'd pick citadel.

and one more birdy

I enjoy Game Color better than Citadel because holy fuck, even on a wet surface it feels like Cit paints evaporate into nothingness faster than Vallejo/P3/Etc.

I just got a thing of Astrogranite, has anyone else used these textures and liked them? It feels like I could have simply glued sand on and given it badab black wash.

Citadel texture paints are good quality, but very expensive for what you get. For twice of the price, you can get whole jar (like 200ml or something) of Vallejo sand/black lava paste, that will last you forever and gives same effect.

Still tho, ready pastes are 1000 times better than wasting your time with sand glue, primer and paint to get same effect.

Any tips on shading black?

dark grey
2 coats of nuln oil
dark grey
grey
edge highlight with light gray

well user, you can't make black more darker. You either need to layer up black into grey, or wash grey into black in recesses

Crosspost from /hhg/, but more opinions can't hurt.
Left or right head for a Pyrithite Spear? I like the slimmer, more simple one on the right, but the chunky one on the left is also nice.
Thoughts or advice?

Try making it more like a spear?

It just looks like a two-headed axe here.

Well, in his defense, none of the spears of the custards look like spears.

> Getting into 40k and mini painting in general
> Have box of shit friend gave me like 10 years ago
> Bunch of citadel paints
> most of them dry little blobs
> some have pigment settled on bottom with oily clear top layer

They were all pretty well sealed. I heard you can re-hydrate with a few drops of water with some mild success. Is it even worth it or should I just look into picking up new paints?

Oh, don't worry about the term 'spear' here. Ixion Hale here is also wielding a 'spear'...

Derp, was meant for , obviously.

The darkest grey I have is Mechanus Gray. Is there a darker shade than that that I should be starting with if I want to go from gray to black?

I have dawnstone. Is that a good layer for black or is it too light? If I do abadon black, dawnstone layering, a nuln oil wash / glaze and then dawnstone highlighs, would that give me a good look?

Now that's a fucking sweet model!

Doing some work on Only War characters, so needed a Chain Axe(two handed) and a heavy stubber.

Doing some conversion work, this is what I've got so far. Some questions though.

On the axe, any suggestions on a power source? I want to attach something to the haft to make the whole thing a bit more bulky.

On the stubber, do you think it still looks too long? Actual Chaingun itself was super long, so I wanted to the mounting down some, but it still feels really long.

I'm also a little unsure if I want to show the model actually shooting it, or if I want to have the model carrying it on their back. Which do you think will look better?

And I should attach the photo

I got around to buying one of those "start collecting" sets ( Stormtroopahs ) - and now they're sitting on my desk in the box because I'm afraid of fucking them up royally since this is the first time.

Is it generally a good idea to paint the bits before cutting them off and gluing them together?

Cut them off, glue the torso/legs/head/backpack together, glue the arms/weapon together AFTER dry-fitting (so, no glue) to make sure everything fits. Paint the arms/weapon separately. It makes it easier. Don't paint on the sprue.

It's a terrible idea. Put everything together except the stuff that is obscuring other parts, i.e. usually weapons plus maybe arms and heads, depending on preference. Paint those seperatly and then finish the assembly.

That just sounds too much like common sense to me. Thanks.

If I paint them on the sprue - cutting them off can bugger up the paint already applied?

Got one more question - I did actually paint one model before ( a space marine ) that I got as part of that pack with the three Ultras and some paints in. One problem is that some sections of the model developed this weird grainy texture underneath the paint - not severe but enough to annoy. Is that from touching the paint while still too wet?

>If I paint them on the sprue, cutting them off can bugger up the paint already applied

Yes, and you'll have to paint the areas the sprue was attached to, where you'll ALSO need to prime again. With how many people use spray primer, it's just messy that way.

>grainy texture
If you touched the paint while it was wet, that's a possibility. Bad primer, or no primer at all, could do it too.

Damn. I'm glad I asked because I was actually seriously considering this as something to try.

I just had a really crazy idea for a conversion to use in Warhammer Fantasy Battle. I had been toying with the idea of how to do a Warhammer version of the Phantom of the Opera as part of a Vampire Counts army, and I got the idea that maybe a Mortis Engine where the phantom is playing a pipe organ would work. Would the Sisters of Battle Exorcist bits be convertable to work on a Mortis Engine, or is that piece too big? Should I be thinking about using little pieces of plastic rod and converting the upper half of the Mortis Engine into a pipe organ? I'd still need to source a mini that could be converted into the phantom sitting down at a keyboard, also.

Why is there so many too thicc paint on faces fags who boast about those shitty miniatures? Looking at the archives right now

It's a meme because' it's a common beginners' mistake. Acrylic model paint is almost always too thick to paint with when you buy it, and people who don't know that frequently end up having disasters when they try to paint.

I mean.. I just saw a khorne 'zerker champion and bunch of ig blue coated dudes whos faces seemed like the dude pressed a lighted match against them.

youtube.com/watch?v=m3p_VuPIS2c

those blue guards are one particular user that really keeps at it even though he's become something of a meme for his poorly done faces.
pretty admirable if you ask me, and he's improving

Hrm. The size should be similar, but it's the weight that worries me the most. The Exorcist organ bits are solid metal, and the Mortis Engine is fairly fragile (assuming you're planning on plonking the organ down on top). You'd have to find some way to subtly reinforce the platform and ghosts.

There's also the fact that acquiring the Exorcist bits at all is going to be difficult and pricey.

It IS a bitchin' idea though, and I wish I'd thought of it.

Nope, once they're dry, they're fucked.
I recently tried to resurrect some older, OOP Citadel paints with pure acetone, even that didn't work.

that would be so hard and so badass

do it and post pics

Working once again with the raider. Love this kit but really hate painting it. Just not fun

Funny, just today I saw a kickstarter for some not-VC that has a very similar concept

I think I've of the Chinamen has a resin recast of the exorcist. That would at least be lighter and cheaper.

That's pretty awesome conceptually although I'm not sure if I'd back it based on just a sketch.

Yeah the KS looks pretty janky generally, outside of three painted vampire minis, the only miniatures that are rendered (the skellies) are in a weird greek style that, while cool, doesn't fit any of the other minis/concepts. Seems sort of thrown-together, and the aggressive and constant misspelling of "model" is legitimately unsettling

So I'm thinking about magnetizing my box of boys, do you guys think its worth it to magnetize them? Cause otherwise ive got a couple sprues full of extra arms im not sure what to do with

Is Army Painter any good? I'm thinking of getting a paint set and so far this is the cheapest one with the most range of colors

I'd say no, but chinaman sells legs and torso sets separately, I always get double squads (10 slugga/10 shoota) out of each box of boyz after ordering a pile.

They're pretty good.

user I'd recommend throwing in one or two more colours on the camo pattern like so

I love me some army painter paints, stay away from the brushes though.

Gotcha thanks, now what about primer?

Krylon matte is good cheap primer. Army painter also offers primer a long with GW and the other major paint brands.

Well, if it's any consolation you're doing a good job.

even the slim one is clunky and chunky, so i say embrace the chunk. the left one for sure

plz halp

water down the wash a bunch and try it out on a piece of sprue first?

>only sold for a limited time at a single event
It's like FW wants Chinamen to have good business.

what about a micron pen

so you're saying you prefer feminine spears?

Putting their halberds on atkins ain't going to save custodes from the chunk. Might as just well go full huge on everything.

Rained all day so I couldn't prime the next piece of this guy. Ended up working on his base.
Touching up the purity seal now that I see it from that angle.

>nearly done this chimera
>just need to weather
>which means I'd have completely finished my 1000 points of blue valhallan guardsmen with their meme faces.
>which means I'll have nothing left to paint
>which means I'll go out and buy more stuff instead of waiting for 8th because I'll be bored.
>which will make my backlog exist again

Help

grab fun models that you'll enjoy painting, or do a display board up nice and cool like. Also, you could get into using LED lights and stuff. To the untrained eye, LEDs make a model golden deamon levels.

Anyone know of good bits to pull of something of this nature? Corrupted Ultramar Auxilaries are my planned army for 8th, and I wanted to see if there were good options for conversions out there.

I actually plan on having some black templars as allies as my list lacks any real durability and anti tank. What are some cool space marine models I can do up that can squeeze into 500 points? I really like the stormtalon so I might get that.

I mean they faces aren't perfect but they look amazing when I play them on the tabletop so I'm damn happy with my work.

IDK, I mostly play grey knights. I'd say look at the emperor's champion though, he's sexy.

Please ignore that he's currently a grey knight.

They're good. Not *quite* Citadel quality but they have good pigment coverage and they are a lot cheaper. I use them quite a bit.

Rustoleum and Krylon primers will do fine. On more expensive models or ones made out of metal or resin (as opposed to plastic, which primer bonds strongly with) I will break out the Army Painter primer.

there you are. i fucking hate you but love you man.
your models do look great on table too (though that may be cause they are facing the enemy lol.)

in my level of painting i wouldn't call those faces tabletop or acceptable by my standards, but i spend over 2-3 days for a single fucking model because i get some perfectionist autistic OCD.

your models look great though and you're a good sport, so i'll let you and Veeky Forums in on my secret face painting technique. (again this is only if you want to improve your models, but they are a bit of a meme now so i dunno, but IMO 10+ years of painting this is my favourite/easiest face method.

>white
just make the whole face white
>purple wash
thin the fuck out of purple paint. I use maggaroth night with like 1 tiny drop purple and like 7 or more drops of lahmian medium and apply a thin coat of that to the model
>Seraphim Sepia
same as the purple, but with Seraphim Sepia, thin it out and apply over the face

you now have a face that looks similar to that of 'eavy metal's quality

Not as much pigment as vallejo

Thanks man, I guess. I'll try this on a space marine head when I get my bits in and report back then

Did you do any commissars or anything?
Rough riders would be fun!

Was working on this earlier. Haven't been painting very long. Thoughts?

I've seen a lot of people's favorite, or near-favorite, models to work on on here. What are people's LEAST favorite models to paint that they own?
Please don't let me be alone in having entire boxes I don't want to touch

I basically gave up on Warmachine because the models are overdesigned as fuck anymore and it's not worth finishing them just to go play with the cancerous tourneyfaggot scene around here

>What are people's LEAST favorite models to paint that they own?
Vehicles.

Related to Warmahordes, but I don't like having to paint the same monopose model over and over

I'm new and the first box of units I got were Rubrics. It takes me fucking forever to get the blues and golds finished. Can't see fielding a whole army as they are hard to paint. My killteam should be done (ready enough to play with) by tonight tho if I finish my Champion.

Every other unit I've tried to paint was much easier in comparison

>Rough riders would be fun!

They'd freeze before they reached the first marker.

that's also part of the problem. I've got a whole bunch of pressgangers that I just can't bring myself to even touch

Fuck Scions.

Fuck their smug little grins on beret heads. Fuck their little picklehaube bullshit. Fuck all their cables. Fuck the artist who took "carapace" literally and made a goddamn bug shell out of it. Fuck their monopose special weapons. Fuck Tauroxes and everything wrong with them. Fuck their bitchin' coats that I love. Fuck all the recessed detail that gets covered up at a moment's notice by other details. Fuck those godforsaken gun arms that make no distinction between straps and fatigues.

I will never finish a single Scion out of spite for their models, but god damnit I have two squads and a Taurox waiting for me to strip and fix them so one day I'll have to.

I like painting certain models, I swear.

So whats /wip/ working on tonight? I just put close to 12 hours straight on pic related. My eyes hurt.

Can we get a photo of the rest of the model for scale with the stubber?

Primed bases, waited for them to dry, worked on one of the Scions in the post above, put it back on the shelf of things I should never have bought, still waiting for bases to dry. Then it's time to find out if unpinned Wyches with 4 points of contact to the base can stand up.

Barrel can never be too long. Pic related. And Id say let him carry the stubber.

Also maybe small box with tubings for axe?

Yea definetly worth it imo. There are few better brands out there but they definetly get the job done with good results. Also they dont cost that much which is nice.

Check pig iron productions. They have something similiar called kolony ferals. Pic related. Anvil Industry is another place to be checked out.

Made a Tactical Marine Squad with Ork Arms, and I'm calling them "Muscle Squad"
Was going to paint them as Black Templars cause that's what I play, but who do you think the buffest chapter is?

>Ork Arms
Couldn't you have just gotten Space Wolf arms?

I had the arms left over from the Boyz I got, and I have no interest in Space Wolves

On to the arms tomorrow (and other stuff I still need to finish up)

Chinaman?