There's a lot that looks good, the colours, the gore in particular. Be careful with the thickness of your paint though, it looks like you're losing some detail in their faces.
Carter Mitchell
I would really like to do my necrons up as the mephrit dynasty and I'm reading thru the painting guide in White Dwarf 46 and I'm having difficulty translating the paints over the name changes as I'm new.
They say to use Deathworld Forest as a basecoat for the green bits, but GW only sells it as an air paint. Whats the green base coat equivalent? Castellan green? I only have waagh flesh and caliban =(
Aiden Powell
Seconded, the gore looks good and I particularly like the colours used on the bottom two.
I'd avoid trying to paint on things like fingernails/claws if they're not specifically modelled on, it just doesn't look right.
Henry Ross
Google "GW paint conversion chart" and "GW paint highlight chart".
You'll get a list of all the updated names for the paints and a list of base coats + highlight options. As someone who is returning to painting after 10+ years it's incredibly helpful.
Jacob Young
thanks I'm now dismayed to find out the conversion chart lists Deathworld forest as the new paint replacing gretchin green. Guess I'm going thru ebay and hoping the shipping to guam isn't shit
Caleb Edwards
the purple one looks the best, but those eyes need plenty of work on them. Still, not bad at all!
Jackson Reed
apparently deathworld forest paint is on the GW webstore, but not in the US what gives?
Chase Anderson
nvm I'm retarded I found it
Jaxon Moore
Oh nice, a proper thread. Repostan from 40K: So I picked up Valthex, gonna convert him to a DM/CSM dude. Any suggestions on what to add? inb4 spikes
Leo Carter
I had a thought. If i can find the right colours to mix, would it be theoretically possible to make my own bulk Astrogranite by combining some Liquitex or W&N Galeria mixing medium with paint, like Structure Gel for example?
Aaron Butler
A spiked dildo.
more spikes
rivets
Thin ur paints, bro
Luis Powell
I'd say most of it can be done with the paint scheme. Hazard stripes, ominous glowing for the gun and skull eyes and power coils.
Can't go wrong with a chaos star added somewhere though.
Adam Ward
Is there an easy way to strip greenstuff off plastic miniatures? If chemicals are needed, maybe an austria/germanyfag here, who might know what to use? Would be a lot easier to get for me, I imagine.
Jackson Adams
I think I screwed up the reflected light from the plasma gun on this dude. I really don't know what went wrong
Joseph Sanchez
from my own experience, almost never put light from a glowing object on a flat surface unless it's ridiculously bright. Key is to mostly do hard edges where the light catches.
That being said, it doesnt look that bad.
Juan Hill
Is there any way I could justify the 30k World Eaters scheme for a 40k chapter?
Fluff-wise, that is. The scheme is beautiful.
Xavier Hill
This is a half-hand sculpted head, meant to look like the dude had the top part of his head replaced, but im sad with how messy it turned out
I'm considering redoing that part of the model but I wonder would just catching the edges even be enough to give the effect? Should I use white or blue?
Austin Wright
>The scheme is not in use by anyone (as far as i know) so why not >Mocking chaos >shit just looks good >can somehow be tied in with your chapters theme Or you could just play chaos already
lighting is about sublty, so just doing the edges should be fine. Remember he is supposedly standing in daylight, so anything glowing on him will only show on the parts that will catch light the most.
As for colour, just try working it up, normal blue at first, then go lighter and lighter until you reached desired effect. possibly white spots on the very hardest edges like rivets and any other pointy bits.
also get some shade on the poor guy.
Connor Rogers
>also get some shade on the poor guy. I've tried!!!! I've washed him like 3 times in agrax earthshade.
I swear to god I have no idea how to fucking highlight faces
Liam Rodriguez
i dont know if agrax would have been the best here. Personally i would use reaikland fleshshade for his skin and nuln oil for everything else on him
Oliver Evans
Reposting because I have a question: Does anyone else use Secret Weapon washes? If so, does your final result end up looking so shiny like it does in the recesses?
Jordan Barnes
I don't use sw washes but is that dry or recently applied?
Zachary Cook
looks like it just hasn't dried because it's pooled quite heavily.
Josiah Powell
>Is there any way I could justify the 30k World Eaters scheme for a 40k chapter? yes because they're your dudes. Just think of how many "gold trim and red armor" dudes there are out there, both as Chaos and nonchaos.
Paint your dudes however you want, and never feel bad about it.
Ian Phillips
Hi Wip! Do you like my 90s guiliman for fest?
Christian Turner
Err. Is this finished?
Blake James
Personally never been a fan of piss yellow, but I'll hold my judgement for the final product. Is the halo supposed to look like that?
Camden Davis
Looking pretty good. Maybe put a light wash over the whole things to tie the colours together.
Christopher Rogers
I like the oldschool yellow rather than gold trim but you really need to clean up a lot of your mistakes. Way too many places where the blue is showing through under the yellow, painting outside the lines etc.
John Hall
Needs to be brighter and greener.
Alexander Sanders
The blue one looks off. I can't put my finger on it, but the color is off somehow. Maybe nut putrid and gross enough for nurgle? Kinda looks like a sea creature. I'd stick to reds and greens for pigment.
Owen Peterson
>Needs to be brighter and greener.
Praise The Emperor!
Luke Young
Working on my edgy fuckers
It's beautiful
Adrian Gonzalez
This is how I did mine (color scheme on the right):
Weapons
-Basecoat Abaddon Black -Layer Dawnstone -Layer White Scar
Here's a Haemonculus conversion I put together last night
Jacob King
bretty dope
Christian Cruz
Which one of you faggot is this?
David Allen
I'm not sure the yellow makes much sense. The yellow trim was always for the Ultramarine 2nd company, but RG isn't in the 2nd company. He also has so much of it that it's become the dominant colour on the model.
William Hall
Probably the leddit faggot that asked for his mini to be 'roasted' last thread or the one before that.
Must have been because it's the first time I've read 'roasting' in one of the /wip/ threads.
Luke Williams
Roasting is so dumb and should be contained on that reddit place
Christopher Diaz
Im trying to identify the bodyguards in this picture, both the body and the head parts. Any help?
Samuel Davis
I think the bodies are solar auxilia models, no idea about the heads though.
Gabriel Wood
The gas mask is from the sicarian rustalker kit. The scarred head is from the Cadian command kit, one of the veterans I think.
Nathaniel Morales
One head is a skitarii ruststalker. The other head is a bit from the cadian command squad.
They've been cut off and put into rugby helmet ( or tank crew) style helmets,
Julian Bennett
Clever!
Zachary Diaz
Looking to splurge and save up for a real top of the line airbrush.
Not that I'm just going to buy the most expensive model. What suggestions does /wip/ have for the best high-end airbrushes out there, and why? What should I keep an eye out for?
Alexander Phillips
looks aesthetic from my point, good work user
Jason Howard
Oh my fuck
Lincoln Barnes
I like it boyo.
Cooper Sanders
Lovely, thanks a lot. Im planning to make a whole army out of conversions.
Austin Martin
working on some melee chosen for upcoming 8th edition! I just hope they'll be viable this time around. They're slighty converted DV chosen.
Justin Wright
get them dudes some 30mm bases
Joseph Reed
but I still have tons of 25mm base lying around man, I don't wanna lug them around for 2 more editions... but I agree with you i should. Any comment on the painting otherwise? Anything I should focus on improving?
John King
What can I do to improve? I'm at this awkward state of mind where half my army is painted but I know I can be doing better and I'm discouraged to keep painting models until I can improve.
The lenses could get some more love too. Also the horns of the guy in the middle.
nice conversions though
Jackson Howard
Christ! Yeh that's appropriately eye-searing
Dominic Watson
Nostalgia like a kick to the nads.
I want to see more armies painted like this.
Jace Mitchell
Harder & Steenbeck Infinity or Evolution series. ( harder-airbrush.eu/en/products.html ) The Infinity is their true high-end series, the Evolution is the mid-range series. But they're both quite spendy, for both I would recommend their Two-in-One sets, which gives you 2 nozzle and needle sets with a single body. Which allows you to be more flexible with what you run through them.
James Scott
As for why I recommend , they're really solid brushes and if you treat them like you should have a life-time of fun with them. They're easy to disassemble and clean. And you can buy spare-parts for them. I own an Evolution Two-in-One, and it's been flawless.
Robert Rodriguez
I don't care if this game is dead, they still made pretty cool minis
Metal is fucking horrible to work with
Wyatt Peterson
Why did GW make finecast suck so much?
Hudson Ward
that's poorly assembled rather than poorly cast
Joseph Campbell
Another night lord
Wyatt Richardson
That's the Halberd that goes with that torso and the other hand is in line with the other arm. I could not physically assemble it any better without clipping off the bottom and trying to use Greenstuff (which I don't have) to fill in the gap
Carson Walker
What should my Mechanicus allies so that they go well with my space woofs? A different sbade of blue or orange or something?
Eli Hernandez
Here's another angle
Michael Hughes
What color should I paint them, christ.
Robert Wood
I would go with orange so that you have complementary colors
William Moore
...
Zachary Lopez
Same blue, different secondary colour so they stand out while still feeling like part of the same army.
Robert Russell
Figured this would be the best place to past this since both 40k and AoS guys are in here.
Looking to send my unused Tau to a good home and bring in some more Greenskins. The Models are in varying degrees of paint, some untouched, some primed, and some in the process of being stripped of paint from the previous owner.
Crisis Commander, Riptide, 20+ Kroot w/ Shaper, 50ish Firewarriors, 6 Devilfish, 2 Piranha, 3 old Broadsides with conversion work 3 Hammerhead/Skyray (1 magnetized/slotted)
Looking to trade for Orks and, models depending, Orruks
Zachary Clark
Some faggot with shit minis.
Aiden Richardson
your best bet is selling them for a quarter of what you paid for them on eBay. don't get your hopes up that your gonna get a ton from them but they will sell fast if you sell them cheap
Cooper Edwards
Whatever color you like.
They're allies, two armies working together. They don't have to share a scheme.
You wouldn't ask how to paint your Salamanders allies.
Andrew Jones
So like, go for a sort of hazard theme with em, maybe some hazard strilpes and silver out all the mechanical bits? Also, dark orange or light?
Tyler Perry
I'm brand spanking new to modeling. I've never assembled nor painted even a model airplane or car while I was growing up.
But now I've become interested in 40k thanks to the video games. I've decided to start my very first ever project with a Leman Russ Tank.
But I'm having a really big problem whenever I talk to anybody about painting for the first time, or watching any "beginners" guides to painting on YouTube. I'm getting confused about all this talk of primers, basecoats, ink washes, dry brushing, etc etc. I simply want my first tank to be in a "playable" state on the tabletop.
To that end, I'm taking a cue from some real life modern tanks (see pic) that dispense with even using a camouflage pattern in favor of a simple single color. It seems to me like I can get away with just spray-painting my tank a single color (I've spray painted furniture before), and then going back with a paint brush to color all the things a military could not logically paint over (treads, spotlights, and optic lenses for instance). And then I'd just be done with it.
Maybe I would go back later and paint additional details on it like unit designations (letters/numbers), weathering, etc. But for now, is what I described a "legit" way to paint a tank up even if it's flat and boring? Or is there an excruciatingly important detail im missing that's going to leave the tank looking like ass if I don't do it?
Ian Lopez
>Or is there an excruciatingly important detail im missing that's going to leave the tank looking like ass if I don't do it?
Shading.
Nathaniel Baker
and highlights. mainly those two
Bentley Martinez
>It seems to me like I can get away with just spray-painting my tank a single color (I've spray painted furniture before), and then going back with a paint brush to color all the things a military could not logically paint over (treads, spotlights, and optic lenses for instance). And then I'd just be done with it.
Works.
To avoid it to look flat, you can either use washes or highlights(or drybrushing). Or both.
Its extremely simple to make a tank look decent actually.
Do you already own some paint? Get a can of paint in a desired color, for example an olive green. (Army painter does primers in spraycans in various fitting colors, greens, browns and sand color like on your pic).
Then you spray your tank, and then you paint the details like tracks, lenses, guns etc.
After that you apply the decals (they come with the kit, so you don't have to hand-paint the numbers, which you can do ofc if you prefer that look)
After that you apply an overall wash of either agrax earthshade, nuln oil or one of the army painter washes (dark tone or strong tone).
Then you use a dust or earth color to apply a subtle drybrush to the raised edges of the tank to make them stick out.
And thats it.
Luis Gonzalez
You can stop at this point or add some little spots of dark brown or any other dark color to the edges of your tank if you want its paint to look worn. This is called "chipping". You can also get a pot of texture paint (stirland mud from games workshop for example) to add some dirt to the tracks and the lower parts of the hull where mud would collect.
Nathaniel Watson
Thanks. I'll look for some beginners guides to shading/highlighting on YouTube.
Right now I own absolutely nothing that has anything to do with modeling. I'm literally starting from scratch.
Julian Young
I hate to just ape & but they're right. Getting a good, solid, tank paintjob is pretty simple and duncan did a good breakdown of it: youtube.com/watch?v=74p9eGwRAog
If you're just looking for a good tabletop standard you can get it done with 3-4 colors and a pot of nuln oil.
Ofc you can get a different color if you like. The benefit is that its actually a primer, so it sticks a little better to the tank than regular paint.
I was also about to link the duncan video, but was faster.
With that you know basically everything you need to know.
Jaxson Allen
You could look at some of Duncan's videos, especially the early ones go into detail about different things. I think they're a good basic guide for beginners.
Nope not yet. I was literally going to pick one up after work today, take it out of the box and look at it, and from there figure out what I'm going to need from the hobby or hardware store.
Matthew Rivera
Oh and thanks for the suggestions and links!
Carter Perry
May i suggest getting this set instead of a single tank:
I'd suggest buying from TripleHelix if you're in the UK. Start collecting box is only £37
Nathan Peterson
Alright, bit of an update. I'd like some input on my ideas thus far!
Kayden King
Why on earth do you have that many unused models? It can't be for painting...
Aaron Reed
I like the pistol and the sword, since it looks fancy enough to match his backpack. The twin pistols make me think of Cypher.
I think you might benefit from just having one of his hands empty, or having one weapon (maybe a pistol) down at his side rather than both battle ready.