I might be going a bit hard on the reflective armor, it looks better if it's just the corners that get the dot highlight
Nathan James
One day, your brush control will become much tighter and you'll look back on this figure and wonder what in the world you were thinking. Then again, it looks good from 2 feet away, so tabletop standard is tabletop standard
Isaac Nguyen
Still workin' on da short bus fer my grots. Debating on adding more scraps on it, but I still want it to obviously be a schoolbus at a glance.
Carter Ortiz
there's nothing wrong with trying new things, how else am I supposed to get good
Luke Edwards
Iron Warriors fag here, was able to use that Krud Kutter Grafitti remover to completely strip the model without harming the greenstuff gaps and glues. Now I'll try re-priming tomorrow and hopefully I won't have any grain this time!
Jack Ramirez
Tonight I'm building an avenger strike fighter and I was hoping to get advice from others with experience. Anything I should know? I have already soaked, scrubbed and trimmed all the parts
Austin Jenkins
this thing is fucking great
Jaxon Ward
>that grit tho
Adrian Ward
Fits in with my counts-as grot warbikes too. Too bad bikes are kind of rubbish this edition other than as mobile shielding for a character on a bike.
Benjamin Rivera
yeah it was pretty bad, glad I decided to strip it. Gonna be working on it this weekend.
Luis Bennett
How's the weathering on the white look like?
Levi Rodriguez
The white looks good. Adding some grime to your engines and the immediate area around them might help a tad, but it looks great so far.
Kevin Butler
Do you actually like the lakers user?
Jayden Scott
Thanks! I've only washed the engine thus far, any idea on how to add grime to those areas though? Seems really easy to mess up
Carter Harris
working on some heraldry for my crusader chapter. what are some other designs that would give that nice Anglo-Saxon feel?
Austin James
What is the best brand of brush soap/cleaner?
Xavier Cruz
>What is the best brand of brush soap/cleaner?
Most of us just use Masters. Pick it up at your local Michaels with a 40-50% off coupon and you'll be set.
Anthony Kelly
Thanks, I always see that brand in OPs for /wip/ but I couldn't remember the name
Zachary Evans
Working on some Death Company. Finally got enough Power Maul bitz to kit out a whole squad (4 from the DW Veterans kit and 1 from the DA Company Veterans kit) so I did just that to celebrate.
Overall I'm decently happy with 'em. Something feels off about #3 (too static?) but the rest seem fine enough for me. I think I really did well with the implying motion on the rest of the little lads. I think I might cut #3's hand at the wrist and reposition the Power Maul just slightly to make him seem more alive. Not sure though.
Oh well, I'll sleep on it for now. Time to work on the other 25.
James King
How did you get such a smooth prime job
Asher Ward
user...
Owen Allen
I don't think they're primed user.
Andrew Butler
Going for alpha legion. Before a wash with 50/50 lahmian medium and waywatcher green...
Aaron Fisher
.....and after. Going for a turquoise type color for their armor.
Daniel Walker
Shame, it seems to give the model a rather dirty aspect, it's not shiny anymore. If I try that, maybe I'll add just a touch of ardcoat in the mix.
Ian Perez
Is that tamiya metallic blue? That's the easiest way to get alpha legion colors. Nightshade wash and it turns a perfect teal
David Jones
mig warhead metalic blue
Adam Evans
So I have a question about basing a specific miniature which is currently hypothetical, but won't be forever.
I'm planning to get the Imperial Triumvirate set once I've honed my painting skills a bit more, but I have very specific bases in mind for Celestine and her guards, and today I realized that the models themselves are going to make it difficult. I want them to look like they're hovering over marble pedestals, but the scroll supports that the minis actually rest on are shaped like lumpy rocks, which won't fit my pedestal idea.
So: how should I go about building up the bases around the "rocks" to make it look like the scrolls are lying on a flat surface?
Jeremiah Jenkins
you have any examples mabye?
Levi Richardson
BULLgryn-user with another update.
I got in a supply of greenstuff and now I can begin the sculpting in earnest.
The fey mood continues to run rampant, I am putting way too much detail into this.
Today I sculpted BOOTHEELS for two hours.
BOOT. HEELS.
What am I doing.
Juan Sanchez
Perhaps I should also mention that the greaves in that shot are custom 3d prints. I had to design them myself using CAD.
Help me.
Adam Torres
nope
Logan Ramirez
>Those feet
Are you giving them battle sandals?
Asher Jackson
You know it's funny - I just got some of that shit today and used it for the first time- Some brushes that were previously not serviceable, while not in peak condition are usable again.
James Gray
I mean, that's all fine and dandy, but what's your goal in sculpting all those tiny details that no one will see? Do you plan on givinf them a completely different look overall or just invisible tiny details? Seems like a lot of work for not much results to me.
Cameron Thompson
Yes. I KNOW. I CAN'T STOP.
Joshua Walker
Nice satan trips, Cant wait to see how this conversion pans out.
Angel Ross
That's exactly what he's saying, user. Keep practicing.
Ayden Walker
Did checks on an aggressor as a test. Not sure if I'll do it in the same place for the other two. Also, I tried out a chipping illusion. Did I do it right?
Ryder Taylor
Googly eyes? Googly eyes. At least for the plaguecaster
Hudson Powell
The mono-eye is freaking hilarious. Paint them like minions
Jacob Young
>tfw really want Aggressors but poor college kid can't justify 50 bucks for 3 models
Looks okay, but the base looks a bit bland (unless you're aming for a puddle of mud then it's not bad).
>paint them like minions I think I threw up a little
Carson Foster
So do shoulder pads from older Marines work on the Primaris? I got a bunch of Forgeworld Iron Fist should pads but all I've really messed with at the moment are easy to build with the shoulder pads built in.
Luis Bennett
working on a Knight of house Makabius for my Death Guard.
Matthew Wood
Don't stop. It's looking glorious. The 3d prints are maybe an overkill but hey if you're having fun!
Connor Lopez
My chapter has a bit of a salvage theme going for it. Do you think a T'au Hammerhead Burst Cannon would look strange if held by a Hellblaster Lieutenant?
Also, where's a good place to buy random bits from every army? ebay?
Cooper Lopez
Stuff like this always makes me want to collect Orks.
Luke Martinez
>user is taken by a fey mood. >user screams I must have greenstuff >user is working furiously >...on bootheels for little army men >user gets a free visit to the 'sudden magma exposition room'
Connor Davis
>have shit planned out to paint >end up working 3 11hr shifts in a row >only have base coat down >wanted to be done by Saturday
Kill me. I hate life.
Carson Martin
...
Nicholas Smith
Is it better to prime Skitarii in white or black?
Jack Perez
Which way was should I wipe my ass? Anyone help?
Benjamin Perez
Kinda hard to get an Anglo-Saxon feel with traditional heraldry seeing as they predate the invention of heraldry. Anglo-Saxon design was always very free flowing and non-uniform while heraldry follows set patterns and laws. Your best bet to get an Anglo-Saxon feel would be to copy the colours and designs of the LoTR Rohirrim.
Logan Taylor
That depends entirely on your colour scheme, but metallic colours do come out better on a black base, white and grey however are nicer for bright colours.
Gavin Robinson
Can never go wrong with grey
Christian Cook
I'd had faggots argue with me not to waste money on Master's soap. Also on kolinsky sables and thinning your paints.
No, seriously, someone once argued with me and said thinning paints weren't necessary because he could paint well without thinning GW paints a couple years ago.
Chase Foster
I get that some people are incapable of something as simple as thinning paints slightly, but why wouldn't you thin by choice? It saves money and looks better. What a dunderhead.
Xavier Johnson
My first gaggle of orks. Planning to have every box of boyz having different skin tones and mix them up in squads. How would these look like if there are 120 of them? My God, I must paint another 110 of them...
Oliver Bell
The mixed skin tones look great, though the bright guy in the middle needs some mates as he looks out of place on his own.
Liam Jones
Those look great user. I feel your pain too. I'm starting a chaos renegade militia army based in infantry and artillery... hold me brews
Gavin Morris
Holy shit Ive been meaning to do same thing for my Valkyries. How did you do it?
Mason Lewis
>skool of ard noks
James Adams
Comment: I think it will look amazing user! Just hold out till then, the finished product should make you proud!
Criticism: >please base your models, they will look so amazing with just simple texture paint and a drybrush
Nolan Turner
Yup, I'm planning to base the whole 120 once I'm done with them, since that way the bases will be uniform. Would it be too late to base them that way once I painted and glued the boyz?
Jose Sullivan
I don't think it'll be too late. I always base my models after completely painting them. Sometimes you get a leg or two ripped when separating the base though
Levi Peterson
Just cut the rocks off and resculpt the ends
Xavier Perez
Hey wip I'm planning on buying some tamiya flat clear varnish in a rattle can because it's available locally. My question is do I need to apply a gloss varnish first before the matte? Or will the matte on its own protect the paint well enough. I already have Tamiya pearl clear but it's way too glossy so needs a matte layer.
Ayden Sanders
I get that I need decent modeling paints, washes and glazes for my brush work, but is quality genuinely a concern with spray cans?
I can get no-brand spray cans five times cheaper than Citadel cans, and half of the fucking paint passes right by my models and disperses into thin air anyway.
Parker Gray
Thicccccc
Easton Howard
Spray quality is very important. You might absolutely destroy your models if you use an inadequate spray can
Colton Price
What do I need to look for in a spray?
Christopher Phillips
It absolutely must say primer on it. Also, a lot of non-GW primers I've used take a really really long time to dry and even then, the bond just isn't as good and can be scratced with a fingernail. GW black spray is great.
Jeremiah Thomas
The only 3 decent brands for undercoating is Citadel, Army Painter and P3 with them all being roughly the same price and Citadel considered the best.
Do not, I repeat, do not use anything else or you will fuck up your model and look like a massive retard in the eyes of everyone else.
Samuel Lopez
we can see them right now. they'll be seen on the finished model too, unless he bases them knee-deep in texture paste or something. what are you talking about?
Angel Stewart
it looks as if you've used gum that you found under a bus bench to attach its chainsaw arm. that's just a really lazy looking putty job
Colton Diaz
what are you smoking? rustoleum painters touch bonds tighter and thinner than any of those and is a fourth of the price. the major "basecoat fuckups" like grittiness or tackiness are all down to environmental conditions or not shaking the can enough anyways. Branded miniature sprays can be useful if you need to get a specific color down as an element of a scheme, but beyond that they're a gouge
Kevin Martin
Just realised one of my models has gotten a wound already. Should I leave him in this 'unique' state or get some greenstuff and fix it? And sorry for the late replies, server died on me yesterday
Did the model get grainy after priming or after painting? I assume you primed it with sprey? Are you sure you've thinned your paint well? Not too little but neither too much? Are you handling the brush correctly? Maybe you should try having less paint on the brush?
It's really hard to tell without an image, try getting one and see if you can get a better response Or at least describe what looks off better. Is it the highlights, shading or something else?
So you specifically want armoured anti-armour? No las-devs etc? Try the Contemptor Mortis with two twin Lascannons; almost as cost-efficient as devs but tougher and mean looking If you want something different, the Xiphon Interceptor looks pretty cool on paper, considering ordering one myself
Thanks!
Looks great but maybe try and get the black camo stripes smoother?
Heard head and pauldrons are interchangable but don't quote me on that, got it from /40kg/
HAH NERD
Looks great, see
Adrian White
As with all things make sure to check online about non-hobby primers. In the UK halfords primer is fine and I've heard hycote is also adequate, not sure about overseas.
Ethan Carter
Posted previous and here's an update. Basecoated it in Warplock Bronze via drybrush before adding Hashut Copper by drybrush again. Looks a lot better but now I'm not sure whether to apply Balthasar Gold to the crest and select trims and I can't decide whether I wanna wash or recess wash with Seraphim Sepia. It dulls the metallic shine a bit from what I've seen from testing on the sprues.
Last picture in the collage is the four colours.
Warplock Bronze Balthasar Gold Hashut Copper Sycorax Bronze (will be used for edge highlight)
Colton Gutierrez
>Finish spraying >Immediately starts pissing down
Thank you Based Emperor
John Kelly
I like how this looks so far! a gold chest eagle might be headed towards overkill in the metallics department, but it might be worth an experiment. You can always paint over it with something flatter if it's too blingy. dude already sorta looks like a statue/trophy
Nicholas Moore
Forgot to mention, index finger is missing
Can't help you with that but model looks amazing What's the general idea for the rest of the model? Maybe make the crest silver?
Damn, feel your pain
Charles Anderson
I got a pretty good deal for an Harlequin army. So I'm beginning to do some test for the colours and all.
Not too convinced on the diamonds on the left boot, pondering whether or not I should do something else, the red seems to be too close to the purple to really make it stand out.
Jayden Martin
Take a sponge, dip it in rhinox hide, wipe some off and dab on edges.
Tone down the left sleeve/chest and purple will look better.
Luis Campbell
Anyone tried the Forge World Airbrush paints? How are they? Should I just use Citadel Air or whatever?
Ian Rogers
Goddamn that looks good.
Juan Gray
Finished up these guys today. Just need to do their bases.
Colton Thompson
How do I make gore?
Christopher Rodriguez
beep boop
Gavin Sullivan
can we get some better lighting? areas like the mask and sleeve look like they're done with some real skill, and I'd like to get a better look!
Cameron Myers
How well do I need to strip old primer before re-priming?
I'm having a hell of a time getting all of the black brush-on primer off that I slapped on my ork boyz, specifically in the recesses and areas I can't scrub vigorously like the sides and armpits of arms that aren't raised up. My plan is to spray them with a bone white and then basecoat, shade, and dip them for a decent table top standard; will I be fine spraying over the remaining black? I mean they are boyz, so I'm not going for a super high level of painting.
Ryder Rodriguez
>bisected stormcast and a big wooden stick. What is this going to be?
Aiden Thomas
Jesus fucking Christ those look fantastic.
Ryder Torres
This. I've had the best bang for my buck by going to my local car part store and grabbing some cans of Duplicolor Sandable Primer. It's a hell of a lot cheaper than branded sprays, goes on thin but has excellent coverage.
Camden Peterson
I think centurions are absolutely awful models but those paint jobs are gorgeous
Nicholas Ortiz
That is almost exactly the effect I was trying to achieve on my own minis. So that's just layers of drybrushing?