/wip/ - Work In Progress Painting Building Modeling General

Cluttered OP edition

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo

miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

Other urls found in this thread:

youtube.com/watch?v=gyuPxJG5kFc
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

First for racial slurs painted on shoulders

TACTICAL

RACISM

I might be going a bit hard on the reflective armor, it looks better if it's just the corners that get the dot highlight

One day, your brush control will become much tighter and you'll look back on this figure and wonder what in the world you were thinking. Then again, it looks good from 2 feet away, so tabletop standard is tabletop standard

Still workin' on da short bus fer my grots. Debating on adding more scraps on it, but I still want it to obviously be a schoolbus at a glance.

there's nothing wrong with trying new things, how else am I supposed to get good

Iron Warriors fag here, was able to use that Krud Kutter Grafitti remover to completely strip the model without harming the greenstuff gaps and glues. Now I'll try re-priming tomorrow and hopefully I won't have any grain this time!

Tonight I'm building an avenger strike fighter and I was hoping to get advice from others with experience. Anything I should know? I have already soaked, scrubbed and trimmed all the parts

this thing is fucking great

>that grit tho

Fits in with my counts-as grot warbikes too. Too bad bikes are kind of rubbish this edition other than as mobile shielding for a character on a bike.

yeah it was pretty bad, glad I decided to strip it. Gonna be working on it this weekend.

How's the weathering on the white look like?

The white looks good. Adding some grime to your engines and the immediate area around them might help a tad, but it looks great so far.

Do you actually like the lakers user?

Thanks! I've only washed the engine thus far, any idea on how to add grime to those areas though? Seems really easy to mess up

working on some heraldry for my crusader chapter. what are some other designs that would give that nice Anglo-Saxon feel?

What is the best brand of brush soap/cleaner?

>What is the best brand of brush soap/cleaner?

Most of us just use Masters. Pick it up at your local Michaels with a 40-50% off coupon and you'll be set.

Thanks, I always see that brand in OPs for /wip/ but I couldn't remember the name

Working on some Death Company. Finally got enough Power Maul bitz to kit out a whole squad (4 from the DW Veterans kit and 1 from the DA Company Veterans kit) so I did just that to celebrate.

Overall I'm decently happy with 'em. Something feels off about #3 (too static?) but the rest seem fine enough for me. I think I really did well with the implying motion on the rest of the little lads. I think I might cut #3's hand at the wrist and reposition the Power Maul just slightly to make him seem more alive. Not sure though.

Oh well, I'll sleep on it for now. Time to work on the other 25.

How did you get such a smooth prime job

user...

I don't think they're primed user.

Going for alpha legion. Before a wash with 50/50 lahmian medium and waywatcher green...

.....and after. Going for a turquoise type color for their armor.

Shame, it seems to give the model a rather dirty aspect, it's not shiny anymore. If I try that, maybe I'll add just a touch of ardcoat in the mix.

Is that tamiya metallic blue? That's the easiest way to get alpha legion colors. Nightshade wash and it turns a perfect teal

mig warhead metalic blue

So I have a question about basing a specific miniature which is currently hypothetical, but won't be forever.

I'm planning to get the Imperial Triumvirate set once I've honed my painting skills a bit more, but I have very specific bases in mind for Celestine and her guards, and today I realized that the models themselves are going to make it difficult. I want them to look like they're hovering over marble pedestals, but the scroll supports that the minis actually rest on are shaped like lumpy rocks, which won't fit my pedestal idea.

So: how should I go about building up the bases around the "rocks" to make it look like the scrolls are lying on a flat surface?

you have any examples mabye?

BULLgryn-user with another update.

I got in a supply of greenstuff and now I can begin the sculpting in earnest.

The fey mood continues to run rampant, I am putting way too much detail into this.

Today I sculpted BOOTHEELS for two hours.

BOOT. HEELS.

What am I doing.

Perhaps I should also mention that the greaves in that shot are custom 3d prints. I had to design them myself using CAD.

Help me.

nope

>Those feet

Are you giving them battle sandals?

You know it's funny - I just got some of that shit today and used it for the first time- Some brushes that were previously not serviceable, while not in peak condition are usable again.

I mean, that's all fine and dandy, but what's your goal in sculpting all those tiny details that no one will see?
Do you plan on givinf them a completely different look overall or just invisible tiny details?
Seems like a lot of work for not much results to me.

Yes.
I KNOW. I CAN'T STOP.

Nice satan trips, Cant wait to see how this conversion pans out.

That's exactly what he's saying, user. Keep practicing.

Did checks on an aggressor as a test. Not sure if I'll do it in the same place for the other two. Also, I tried out a chipping illusion. Did I do it right?

Googly eyes?
Googly eyes.
At least for the plaguecaster

The mono-eye is freaking hilarious. Paint them like minions

>tfw really want Aggressors but poor college kid can't justify 50 bucks for 3 models

Looks okay, but the base looks a bit bland (unless you're aming for a puddle of mud then it's not bad).

>paint them like minions
I think I threw up a little

So do shoulder pads from older Marines work on the Primaris? I got a bunch of Forgeworld Iron Fist should pads but all I've really messed with at the moment are easy to build with the shoulder pads built in.

working on a Knight of house Makabius for my Death Guard.

Don't stop. It's looking glorious.
The 3d prints are maybe an overkill but hey if you're having fun!

My chapter has a bit of a salvage theme going for it. Do you think a T'au Hammerhead Burst Cannon would look strange if held by a Hellblaster Lieutenant?

Also, where's a good place to buy random bits from every army? ebay?

Stuff like this always makes me want to collect Orks.

>user is taken by a fey mood.
>user screams I must have greenstuff
>user is working furiously
>...on bootheels for little army men
>user gets a free visit to the 'sudden magma exposition room'

>have shit planned out to paint
>end up working 3 11hr shifts in a row
>only have base coat down
>wanted to be done by Saturday

Kill me. I hate life.

...

Is it better to prime Skitarii in white or black?

Which way was should I wipe my ass? Anyone help?

Kinda hard to get an Anglo-Saxon feel with traditional heraldry seeing as they predate the invention of heraldry. Anglo-Saxon design was always very free flowing and non-uniform while heraldry follows set patterns and laws. Your best bet to get an Anglo-Saxon feel would be to copy the colours and designs of the LoTR Rohirrim.

That depends entirely on your colour scheme, but metallic colours do come out better on a black base, white and grey however are nicer for bright colours.

Can never go wrong with grey

I'd had faggots argue with me not to waste money on Master's soap. Also on kolinsky sables and thinning your paints.

No, seriously, someone once argued with me and said thinning paints weren't necessary because he could paint well without thinning GW paints a couple years ago.

I get that some people are incapable of something as simple as thinning paints slightly, but why wouldn't you thin by choice? It saves money and looks better. What a dunderhead.

My first gaggle of orks. Planning to have every box of boyz having different skin tones and mix them up in squads. How would these look like if there are 120 of them?
My God, I must paint another 110 of them...

The mixed skin tones look great, though the bright guy in the middle needs some mates as he looks out of place on his own.

Those look great user. I feel your pain too. I'm starting a chaos renegade militia army based in infantry and artillery... hold me brews

Holy shit Ive been meaning to do same thing for my Valkyries. How did you do it?

>skool of ard noks

Comment: I think it will look amazing user! Just hold out till then, the finished product should make you proud!

Criticism:
>please base your models, they will look so amazing with just simple texture paint and a drybrush

Yup, I'm planning to base the whole 120 once I'm done with them, since that way the bases will be uniform. Would it be too late to base them that way once I painted and glued the boyz?

I don't think it'll be too late. I always base my models after completely painting them. Sometimes you get a leg or two ripped when separating the base though

Just cut the rocks off and resculpt the ends

Hey wip I'm planning on buying some tamiya flat clear varnish in a rattle can because it's available locally. My question is do I need to apply a gloss varnish first before the matte? Or will the matte on its own protect the paint well enough. I already have Tamiya pearl clear but it's way too glossy so needs a matte layer.

I get that I need decent modeling paints, washes and glazes for my brush work, but is quality genuinely a concern with spray cans?

I can get no-brand spray cans five times cheaper than Citadel cans, and half of the fucking paint passes right by my models and disperses into thin air anyway.

Thicccccc

Spray quality is very important. You might absolutely destroy your models if you use an inadequate spray can

What do I need to look for in a spray?

It absolutely must say primer on it. Also, a lot of non-GW primers I've used take a really really long time to dry and even then, the bond just isn't as good and can be scratced with a fingernail. GW black spray is great.

The only 3 decent brands for undercoating is Citadel, Army Painter and P3 with them all being roughly the same price and Citadel considered the best.

Do not, I repeat, do not use anything else or you will fuck up your model and look like a massive retard in the eyes of everyone else.

we can see them right now. they'll be seen on the finished model too, unless he bases them knee-deep in texture paste or something. what are you talking about?

it looks as if you've used gum that you found under a bus bench to attach its chainsaw arm. that's just a really lazy looking putty job

what are you smoking? rustoleum painters touch bonds tighter and thinner than any of those and is a fourth of the price. the major "basecoat fuckups" like grittiness or tackiness are all down to environmental conditions or not shaking the can enough anyways. Branded miniature sprays can be useful if you need to get a specific color down as an element of a scheme, but beyond that they're a gouge

Just realised one of my models has gotten a wound already. Should I leave him in this 'unique' state or get some greenstuff and fix it?
And sorry for the late replies, server died on me yesterday

Did the model get grainy after priming or after painting? I assume you primed it with sprey?
Are you sure you've thinned your paint well? Not too little but neither too much?
Are you handling the brush correctly? Maybe you should try having less paint on the brush?

It's really hard to tell without an image, try getting one and see if you can get a better response
Or at least describe what looks off better. Is it the highlights, shading or something else?

So you specifically want armoured anti-armour? No las-devs etc?
Try the Contemptor Mortis with two twin Lascannons; almost as cost-efficient as devs but tougher and mean looking
If you want something different, the Xiphon Interceptor looks pretty cool on paper, considering ordering one myself

Thanks!

Looks great but maybe try and get the black camo stripes smoother?

Heard head and pauldrons are interchangable but don't quote me on that, got it from /40kg/

HAH NERD

Looks great, see

As with all things make sure to check online about non-hobby primers.
In the UK halfords primer is fine and I've heard hycote is also adequate, not sure about overseas.

Posted previous and here's an update. Basecoated it in Warplock Bronze via drybrush before adding Hashut Copper by drybrush again. Looks a lot better but now I'm not sure whether to apply Balthasar Gold to the crest and select trims and I can't decide whether I wanna wash or recess wash with Seraphim Sepia. It dulls the metallic shine a bit from what I've seen from testing on the sprues.

Last picture in the collage is the four colours.

Warplock Bronze
Balthasar Gold
Hashut Copper
Sycorax Bronze (will be used for edge highlight)

>Finish spraying
>Immediately starts pissing down

Thank you Based Emperor

I like how this looks so far! a gold chest eagle might be headed towards overkill in the metallics department, but it might be worth an experiment. You can always paint over it with something flatter if it's too blingy. dude already sorta looks like a statue/trophy

Forgot to mention, index finger is missing

Can't help you with that but model looks amazing
What's the general idea for the rest of the model? Maybe make the crest silver?

Damn, feel your pain

I got a pretty good deal for an Harlequin army. So I'm beginning to do some test for the colours and all.

Not too convinced on the diamonds on the left boot, pondering whether or not I should do something else, the red seems to be too close to the purple to really make it stand out.

Take a sponge, dip it in rhinox hide, wipe some off and dab on edges.

youtube.com/watch?v=gyuPxJG5kFc
At about 3 minutes

Tone down the left sleeve/chest and purple will look better.

Anyone tried the Forge World Airbrush paints? How are they? Should I just use Citadel Air or whatever?

Goddamn that looks good.

Finished up these guys today. Just need to do their bases.

How do I make gore?

beep boop

can we get some better lighting? areas like the mask and sleeve look like they're done with some real skill, and I'd like to get a better look!

How well do I need to strip old primer before re-priming?

I'm having a hell of a time getting all of the black brush-on primer off that I slapped on my ork boyz, specifically in the recesses and areas I can't scrub vigorously like the sides and armpits of arms that aren't raised up. My plan is to spray them with a bone white and then basecoat, shade, and dip them for a decent table top standard; will I be fine spraying over the remaining black? I mean they are boyz, so I'm not going for a super high level of painting.

>bisected stormcast and a big wooden stick.
What is this going to be?

Jesus fucking Christ those look fantastic.

This. I've had the best bang for my buck by going to my local car part store and grabbing some cans of Duplicolor Sandable Primer. It's a hell of a lot cheaper than branded sprays, goes on thin but has excellent coverage.

I think centurions are absolutely awful models but those paint jobs are gorgeous

That is almost exactly the effect I was trying to achieve on my own minis. So that's just layers of drybrushing?

I'm stealing the fuck out of that.