WIP - Painting, modeling, basing - Work in Progress general

Watch paint dry edition

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>WIP's own 10-point painting scale:
pastebin.com/sxXFfws3

>Reinforcements are en route
youtube.com/watch?v=UID6LEzvRRo

>Previous Thread(s):

Other urls found in this thread:

warhammer-community.com/warhammerheroes/
twitter.com/SFWRedditGifs

Does anyone have recommendations for older models that have chipped paint? I just came across some of my older metal models from my parents' house that have pretty decent paintjobs, but there are chips on the shoulders or face.

>Do I receive a confirmation after signup?
Yes, I send 'em out as soon as I see the email, shouldn't take longer than 1-2 days. If you got none til then, resend a mail.

>What shall I include in the email?
Well, your address, obviously. Also, your name if you're not 100% sure that you receive packages without a name. You also can include what you are collecting etc, but don't expect to get something related to that 100%

>What shall I gift?
I don't know, use your imagination! You can check last year's SS here: imgur.com/a/1fxhq

>How much should I gift?
Well it should be at least 10-15$ in value, so that it is worthwhile all the hassle. But you can also go higher and nobody will say a thing if it's only 7.85$. It's the gesture that counts. I'm sure you find some cool stuff in your bitzbox, too.

>When do we get our matches?
The matching will take place Dec 1st and after that, you'll receive an email with the address of your match

>What about shipping costs?
I try to do continental matching, so they shouldn't be too high. If you specifically want someone from another continent, I also try to arrange that!

>What do if I get grinched?
Email me and I'll try to contact your match. If we can't sort it out, he'll get put onto the naughty list. Often, we find kind anons jumping in and sending something to you in this case!

>Why the fuck are we doing this?
Because /WIP/ is literally the most wholesome online community.

>Do people sign up from country XY?
Most people sign up from NA and EU, but also from Australia, Japan, whatever. If you only want to participate of someone else from your country registers, you can ask in advance, just shoot an email.

you all make sure you vote for Duncan
warhammer-community.com/warhammerheroes/

Just sent you one

*NOW I think I’m done.

What do I use to seal a model?

matte varnish, usually

...

Short update on the Secret Santa:

We passed 100 participants!
55 NA
33 EU
11 AUS/NZ
1 SEA

Gonna be greeeeeeeeeat

isn't SEA and AUS the same thing

If it's a metal or resin model, I'd first gloss varnish it, and then matt#
Gloss protects the paint way better.

Erm dunno. I dont even know if Singapore is considered SEA or what, its just what I've categorized them so far

>1 SEA

Found the guy sending dead cats

>tfw can't think of anything except for a bunch of assorted supplies

I guess then it should be qualified as a local delicacy, eh

Hot wax

You know, that might be the first Krieg model I've seen based with grass and not churned up mud.

neat

maybe a throw in a single character mini you like very much?

Nout wrong with a variety pack of assorted supplies. You can always package it in an interesting manner or draw a picture or something else.

Shit, send a mixtape.

>christmas morning ss package finnaly arrives
>its a fucking mixtape in there
>mfw its actually pretty good
>mfw i have no face

>music to paint to
>it's a duncan remix

that'd be an interesting time trying to even play a cassette at this point

...

/wip/ gifs are always the best gifs

5 more done! 15 ork boys total! We're getting there!

Not sure how I feel about the sleeve blue paint on the arms.

Nice model. Well painted. Why is there cottage-cheese on the base?

Finished up with Ironskull. Might give the fur another white drybrush to make it stand out more.

Add some extra none hobby related stuff also user. If you really cant think anything at all just go buy a single character mini and add it to to the package.

Nice, I like the bright green for the skin. I think the blue "sleeves" look good too. I know they're mooks and you probably have to paint 200, but if you wanted to take them farther maybe highlight the fabric and work on making the skin highlights a bit thinner

And to that one guy who's painting his Shadespire orks with multicolored skin, thanks for the rust tutorial. It turned out really well

>That really should have been a cardboard battle bunker instead of a bastion.

It's funny you should suggest that. I painted the Imperial Bastion for the Inner Circle event specifically to replace the 2nd Edition cardboard Battle Bunker that was there (pic related) because the Battle Bunker's roof kept falling in. Also, it's easier to hide a bluetooth speaker under the bastion because it's taller.

>Static grass instead of flock

M8, there's not a single blade of static grass involved. I flocked the entire board *and* the bases of all the models.

>No polystyrene ball and cocktail stick cacti

That, I no can defense.

How do I drybrush only a small area? I have some small armor plates on a character that are black and I want to edge them in silver, but if I just try to use watered down silver and scrape the edge, the lines are either too thick or too abrupt and it looks bad ...

everyone says a newbie like me should just dry brush it, but I only know drybrushing in the context of doing a huge area with sweeping brush strokes like for fur or skellington bones. If I only wanted to do the edges of some chest armor plates, how would one go about doing that?

Picture is case in point. I need to dry brush the edges of his armor plates

How would one go about sprucing up or improving the models for the new Twilight Imperium game?

the mookiest of mooks.Youre absolutely right about the highlight needing to be thinner. I messed that up

Singapore is indeed SEA. Australia is...bumfuck nowhere honestly. It's a region or a continent in its own right.

>I've got you covered... though I might need to change the green.

On another note, My SOB are turning out to be a tad too seasonal... might have to give them snow bases.

I've had most of them since I got them cheap in the last GW sale... Yeah... that puts a date on how long I've had them in a box.

You don't have to flail the brush wildly to dry brush. Gently rubbing it against the edge you're trying to highlight works just as well. Make sure you're not using a lot of paint and that you're moving the brush in only a single axis.

Failing that. Block off the areas you don't want painting with tape or my personal favorite Parafilm.

Helps if I add the picture.

You can use a small rounded brush (not one that you care about.) You said that you're using watered down silver, don't - the brush needs to be bone dry and you want only the tiniest amount of paint on it, so much that you probably won't be able to see it on the brush and then you build it up, it's like applying dozens of layers in one go.
>get a small brush, make sure its dry
>small amount of your paint
>vigorously attack a piece of paper towel or whatever you're using to get the majority of it off
>tickle the area you want, build it up gradually

Pics of my Artorias marine for that one user who asked. The lighting is shit in this room and the conversions are rough due to it being my second attempt at converting anything. Sword was scratch built from a paperclip and the whole model used an Easy to Build Intercessor as its base

If you look closely at his sword hand you can see the Covenant of Artorias on his finger

And pics of my Synthwave marine for the other curious user. Never got to painting his chapter symbol but it was do be a small island with a neon green palm tree on a magenta sunset

what did last years secret santa look like? any pics?

Can someone explain to me the difference between citadel washes and glazes?

I want to make an "alien acid" base for my tyranids, PVA glue and super glue to create the texture.
But with which type of watery paint should I paint it?

Shit dude, I'd be happy with brushes and bits. Why not toss in some funky technical stuff or some snacks?

>imgur.com/a/1fxhq

I have a Pioneer cassette player right in front of me, and too many unpainted models.

>what did last years secret santa look like? any pics?

I got an entire squad of Mk III Iron Armour, a ton of Cadbury chocolates, and the handsome lad on the left there with the power cane.

...

>snacks

A squad of alpha legion along with a loose assortment of bases built up and painted to look like oreos or whatever the most appropriate snack is, mixed in with the real deal.

Progress on the Razorback.

What's with the Templar shit?

I bought the Razorback used as part of a deal with a shitton of other stuff.
Some other user recommended I glue something on top of it, but I'm not sure what exactly.

Trying to personalise my shadespire dudes so I made a custom weapon for Basha. It's a board with a nail in it (nail is missing its head, which will be added when I am decided on the look).

What do you guys think?

I quite like the nail being crooked instead of straight.

submitted my vote for Duncan Rhodes, the Sultan of Shades and the Lord of Layers, for services to Thin Coat Distribution

I wanted more life and color on the table, I really dig the old school goblin green bases too, but this felt more right.
snow, its spring.

Valhallan blizzard.

>What do you guys think?

It's pretty intimidating.

Looks really good. I think you'll have to rough up the grip area to match, it would look weird to have a stick with an iron pommel piece

Get some printer-paper and practice painting propaganda posters? Can probably find some 40k ones to print off somewhere.

The bent nails a nice touch.
If you use high grit sandpaper you can get a woodgrain texture on it.

Thanks for the suggestions. Definetly gonna cjamge the pommel.

I do have some fine grit sandpaper on hand, but will the texture dissapear after priming?

That is fucking glorious, user

that's so awsome! might steal your idea someday to practice edgepainting

The finest lines will but it should be ok overall.

Put my name in. I hope whoever I get is ready for the storm.

...

Working on converting a Space furries Venerable Dreadnought into a chaos dreadnought. Anything I should work on?

Hey, I'm doing the same thing but with the normal ven. dread
My advice is to give it a distinctly chaos silhouette, like give it more spikes or something

is the bring of torments on a 120x92mm base or a 170x105mm base?
asking cuz im buying a third party model and im going to proxy it but i need to know the exact base size

This is my first chaos model and I'm not very familiar with the mutations and guts and all the bits, can anyone tell me how can I achieve a crusted, weeping look to the edges / cracks on the nest thing on the deathshrouds? It's looking a bit faded now that the glaze has dried. And how can I get it to look wet and gooey, a gloss varnish? The teeth on his pauldron only look wet at the moment because a wash is still drying on them.

Finished the Gold Smoke Knight (though I may go back and do a bit more on the base.... need a break from him).

New painter here,

I've heard painting white is hard.

I want to do something like this, how would I go on about it? Maybe a minimal darker grey.

Just entered. Happy holidays anons, excited to send someone a shit ton of candy and paint.

Hey Veeky Forums, how would you paint the pumpkin the Halloween White Speaker has? Not quite sure how I want to achieve the yellow glowing effect, or even what paints to use for the bag/her cloak.

Painting white isn't so hard. If you are looking for a purple-ish bone, you need to base it white, layer it with a bone-ish color, and then wash it with whatever tone bone you want.
Just base it white, it'll make it easier on you.

I need these skills to do justice for my core game models any suggestions to really read into for good paint jobs or schemes

You could try to use some kind of a texture for the crusty edges, with some kinda shined paint or varnish for any drippings. Looks good user

Base coat the pumpkim white. Then apply a yellow wash over it. This way we get the eyes and mouth done.

Then on the skin of the pumpkin use a nice orange, and use browns to shade the skin and mix in a earthy cream colour to make highlights to the skin. Then to get that glow coming through you can keep highlighting some parts of the skin to almost white and glaze over the original orange and yellow.

I wish I could say there was something to read that I have read like a book or some such. I would recommend watching the painting tutorials on Beasts of War though. Romain is pretty great with good techniques that go beyond the typical GW stuff.

Very nice user, I love it.

...

How'd you like my greeblies, user?

I plan on priming the entire thing white and painting some light grey on top of that + purple shade in the crevices (how the hell do you shade properly btw?)

It's a weird combination I think, I don't want it pure white as I find that odd. Do you have any idea which grey paint (citadel or vallejo) would be fitting and not look off?

...

He should stop polishing his swords and start usin' em I think

...

Should I do that highlighting to white/yellow glaze over the edges of the mouth/eyes? And should I just recess shade with the brown on the skin?

Thanks for the advice user

NMM newbie here again. Got the main body and head done and can start on the arms/weapon next.

Not all that happy with the colour recipe I used, I feel like it's way too dark and not vibrant enough but still will continue on with it to finish this guy off and move onto the next. Read up more helpful tutorials and have begun to look into trying to implement what I have learned from NMM and try to use it in TMM.

Maybe a while till the next update as I won't be able to paint in the next few days but we'll see.

Yup I think white highlights on the edges of the eyes and mouth will enhance that glow effect.

Sons of the Phoenix inceptor

Gonna make the purity seals less wide on the next guys

With grey, the purple wash with be far less noticeable than it would be on bone, so keep that in mind. As far as washes go, apply it evenly and in one going (if you stop and start, lines can show of where you left off), and make sure that the wash isn't pooling near the bottom.

looks mighty majestic user, very nice

I use a q tip or a tooth pick for those times

Evenly over the entire model?

That would make it rather dark, no?

are those metal?

No, to the area that you want shaded.

I think I'm finished with my chaos champion.
1/2

Not super thrilled with the way the dry-brushed highlights around the edges of the armor turned out but overall I'd say it turned out ok.


Any suggestions for what kind of base I should give him?

2/2

Nice work user. I think a mud and blood base would look really cool.

Thanks. I have not tried a mud base before but I've always thought they were cool when done right.