WIP - Work in progress

Latex Lover.

Meatslam Express

Axis, Battle-Axe of the Axe-Wielders.

Manbags O'Shaughnessy

Dash Racis.

Adolf

His Nubian Manservant

>Do I receive a confirmation after signup?
Yes, I send 'em out as soon as I see the email, shouldn't take longer than 1-2 days. If you got none til then, resend a mail.

>What shall I include in the email?
Well, your address, obviously. Also, your name if you're not 100% sure that you receive packages without a name. You also can include what you are collecting etc, but don't expect to get something related to that 100%

>What shall I gift?
I don't know, use your imagination! You can check last year's SS here: imgur.com/a/1fxhq

>How much should I gift?
Well it should be at least 10-15$ in value, so that it is worthwhile all the hassle. But you can also go higher and nobody will say a thing if it's only 7.85$. It's the gesture that counts. I'm sure you find some cool stuff in your bitzbox, too.

>When do we get our matches?
The matching will take place Dec 1st and after that, you'll receive an email with the address of your match

>What about shipping costs?
I try to do continental matching, so they shouldn't be too high. If you specifically want someone from another continent, I also try to arrange that!

>What do if I get grinched?
Email me and I'll try to contact your match. If we can't sort it out, he'll get put onto the naughty list. Often, we find kind anons jumping in and sending something to you in this case!

>Why the fuck are we doing this?
Because /WIP/ is literally the most wholesome online community.

>Do people sign up from country XY?
Most people sign up from NA and EU, but also from Australia, Japan, whatever. If you only want to participate of someone else from your country registers, you can ask in advance, just shoot an email.

not too late

see

ultra giga nigga (you must give him black skin if this wins)

SuckOrks

Thx for the quick rundown. Will send email shortly

Thanks for ruining the thread one post in, epic dubs for the win bro

I try my best

>How do I achieve [look]? hmm...
>I know! I just have to do this thing that relies on this low quality mini being a high quality mini!
I can't wait to get back to painting AoS stuff and be done with these cheap ass board game minis

Anne Frank.

Runcan Dhoades

Roll.

The Axe Man

gathered stuff to send, will send you an email shortly

So, fuck my old paint scheme. Can y'all give me advice on a new one?

Looking to go with bone, green, and charcoal. Thinking purple for the plasma coils and copper muzzles on non-bolters.

Here's what I have so far, from top left clockwise; Marine, Sergeant, Ravenwing Sergeant, Ravenwing Biker.

feels kind of weird how the shoulder pads don't match up with the colors of the arms, other than that looks good.
Good luck painting it.

Chan

I don't see any issues with that scheme.
Do you have the commitment to pull off a quatered scheme and the skills to make it not look like ass?

I'll look at matching them too, I was going for something striking, and bone limits my options to composition, but maybe it'll look better if it's more harmonious.

>commitment
#yourdudes
>skill
Eh, maybe. But they'll be mine, even if they're messes.

working on some kind of inq28/inquisimunda. still needs some minor work.

So I had the idea of putting AoS Celestant Prime wings on my 40k Saint Celestine. I was thinking of painting them black with gold highlights to give them a sort of ethereal look, like it's a manifestation of her faith rather than actual flappy wings.

Should I do it or is it doomed from the start?

a little awkward but very Blanche. I like it

GURK SLAMCHEST

Dick McCompensator

So I matched the shoulders and fixed the belt/codpiece so the whole thing is truly quartered. Better or worse? I could go either way,

better

I think so too. This is going to be a MOTHER to paint.

Keith

wait...My OCD senses are tingling... The cloaked version on the right...why is his hand, that 's gripping the chainsword, not colored...

Because that's how the program depicts "silver" in the metallic category. All my Sergeant's left gauntlets are silver.

Working on Morty's wings.
I have a very long way to go still.

Hey Anons,

Two questions.

First, I'm starting up Necrons and want to do a color scheme other than silver.

I'm figuring Green for the 'up' bits (Thighs, chest, skull, biceps, etc.) and the 'joint/connector' bits would be brass or bronze.

Would that be eye burning clashing? Nearest I could think that it would be comparable is just brown and green.

A second question I have is if anyone knows a source of alternate 'beam' bits for necrons.

Should I just paint over the rods or look for new colors?

You could do copper, it's much redder than brass/bronze so it would complement green rather than just be ugly.

That would work.
The biggest issue is that I don't want to do a silver and I've already done a blue/orange scheme on my other army so I'm leaning green.

Copper would compliment it a bit better.

painting over the rods will work fine
you can buy different colour acrylic lightcatching rods online if you'd rather not paint them

OrksSuck user here
You next name will be

T'au Lover

Apostrophe essential

Murder-Fucker

Ok, I'll probably just paint them red with orange 'beams' going through them.

Hm, lets try again with...
Orruk

Milton

yessss

>and want to do a color scheme other than silver.
That's nice. The first standalone codex had some intersting ideas about that.

>A second question I have is if anyone knows a source of alternate 'beam' bits for necrons.
Yeah. You can get beads in those dimensions. I found a listing on aliexpress for that once. I'd have to check bu I think it's 3.5x20mm or so. If you check ebay there is also a seller there that sells necron rods in several colors.
And you could also just buy 3.5mm diameter acrylic rods in the color you want and cut them to length yourself. Some people also use cocktail picks or stuff like that.

Harry Potter

I remember those pages.
That Grey/Black one always looked good to me, along with the silver/red one.

Actually, I do have a question.

Would Necrons be a good army to practice highlighting with?
I'm not a master painter but it looks like some fun things could be done with necrons and highlights.

yeah, Necrons would be great for practice, they're nice and simple and easy to paint.
Also they have plenty of glowy bits to practice really bright highlights

Ok.
Now, a question is do how awful would it be if I tried to highlight edges so that it looked like they were 'glowing' a bit.

Say I did a monolith, painted it black, and tried to highlight red on the edges, would that look garish?
I've skipped highlighting on my Marines and have mostly gotten by by washing them to dirty them up so the colors weren't as stark/bright

I'm kinda at my wit's end with this model here. I'm stuck with mostly improvising with cheap non citadel paints, but despite that I tried to follow the official warhammer yt guide. I think some parts turned out ok, but the hair, some of the shading, and detail work needs to be finished and improved.

Any advice? I snapped a bush in rage already.

so long as you give enough layers to transition from the base color it should work fine. I've seen plenty of people pull of something like that when going for a "tron" look like pic related

That can look great. See pic for example

Yeah, that tron look is what I'm starting to think of doing with a matte black for the 'major' body parts while the joints and rest take that bronze color, highlighting the black with a red color.

Now, if I'm reading this right, I basically get the red on the brush till it barely comes out on a paper towel and then go along the sharp edges?

The only red I currently have is Mehpiston Red and I almost think that may be too 'bright'

Esmeralda

>till it barely comes out on a paper towel
That is dry brushing. If you intend on Tron-ing like those riptides, you won't fill the recesses.

Yeah, the recesses I'd need to mix it with water till it flows into gaps and crevasses right?

Painting never really was my strong suit.

Veiny McGreencock

Probably won't get a strong colour with that, it'd be messy.
I dunno, might just have to load paint on a fine brush and run through the model very carefully.

Ok, so I do just have to put paint on the brush and be very, very careful about what I'm doing then along the edges.

glemmy+

You didn't even prime the model you dumb fuck. go and strip all the paint off then start again and only put paint on it after it has been primed. dumb fucking idiot holy shit.

>Perfect names don't exi-

Thin your paints and use lots of layers to build up to something lighter. Don't just gloop on unthinned ceramite white to the edges and expect it to look good.

Poor bush

Doesn't look bad, needs the hair drybrushing
use better paints if you want a better result

:( is that why the paint is so clumped up? I thought it was just the shitty acrylics I was using.

So lots of little shades of read on the black till it looks good for a 'subtle' shade?

It doesn't have to be subtle. Just don't try and do the whole thing in one pass. If you want something really bright and tron-like, build up to a bright white with a million layers and then paint your red over that.

So a whole bunch of white layers and then I do a few layers of red until i'm satisfied?

Started and finished first sternguard vet. So this will be the scheme for the rest of them. Hope it looks good.

Basically, yeah. And thin your paints.

"finished" Haven't based it yet. I really should do that first from now on.

Ok.
I've got thinning my paints down so that I don't have elephantiasis marines so I'll just need to practice this.

May try Black raised, copper joints, red highlighting on the black.

WINRAR

looks great user
that industrial colour plasma pistol is gonna smite some shit

white is a little chalky but otherwise very good. Always nice to see a fellow BT player

Thanks.
Yeah I can't do white for shit. thinned white paint, a little more, a little more, too much. settle.

That's a lot of riptides...

WIP Hemlock Wraithfighter. I fucked up painting the nose and have to redo it.

Hey, guys. I'm not from the board, so heckle me if it's appropriate, but I have a questions about basing in white vs. black and thinning paint.

I'm painting cheap plastic toy soldiers. Roughly 1:72 scale I think. I plan to prime with Krylon Fusion spray paint and wash with Minwax wood stain. My question regarding basing is: should I base with white since I'm going to be using lighter shades of paint to compensate for the darkening of the wash? I'm accustomed to black bombing everything, but I've never painted a mini before, and I've never used a wash.

Secondly, the only thing I do know about painting is that I should be thinning it.. with water? Does this include acrylic paints? (I'm assuming you guys use model paints which would be enamel? But fuck I have no idea.. ) Is there a guid to paint thinning you could point me to?

I admit I didn't read anything in the mediafire for painting Citadel miniatures. I wasn't sure what I would find would fit my application. If that's an oversight on my part, just give me the finger.

Thanks.

If you prime it black and then try to wash it you won't see any effect, prime it white.
most ranges of hobby paints are accrylic and as such can easily be thinned with water.

Got a couple things worked on over the weekend. Did the turret, commander, and heraldry on my Achilles

Does anyone know what the difference is lore wise between the little explosion role badge and the normal heavy support chevron?

From the front

Got this boy as an early xmas gift. Thinking of turning him into a Typhus counts-as. Any tips on how to make a good destroyer hive?

Thanks, man. Is paint thickness a personal preference or is there a guideline? I'm assuming the appropriate method is to use multiple, equally thin coats and not progressively thicker coats or some such nonsense?

So this is my first model and yes I realize the white has much to be desired, but I don't think it's an absolute write off.

Also made a death spectres librarian for my death watch. Realized I need to find a black skull transfer to put down before I free hand the scythes otherwise I'll have to get a lot better at free handing.