WIP - Work in Progress

Rogue Trader Edition

>Citadel Painting Guides:
mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palette
youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM

>How to Moldlines
youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>On the consequences of insufficient ventilation
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chronic_solvent-induced_encephalopathy
hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg273.pdf

>WIP's own 10-point painting scale:
pastebin.com/sxXFfws3

>Previous Threads:

Other urls found in this thread:

i.4cdn.org/tg/1512782973082.pdf
amazon.com/DerBlue-Sheets-Inkjet-Transfer-Transparent/dp/B075V339CY)
mega.nz/#F!Eex1gKIL!ffW6cUTbhnpv9juw8wlCgQ
kickstarter.com/projects/1989721065/warlayer-3d-printable-terrain
kickstarter.com/projects/rocketpiggames/tilescape-dungeons
rocketpiggames.freeforums.net/thread/136/afford-3d-printer-again
eal.dk/forskning-og-innovation/projekter/fablab/prototype--build/
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

Just to kick things off, here is a old PDF on terrain.

i.4cdn.org/tg/1512782973082.pdf

I didn’t happen to make it in to this years SS, but I just want you all to know that the generosity some of you are showing in your gifts to strangers warms my heart and brings me to tears. I’m so glad that this community exists.

Thank you anons. And merry Christmas to all of you.

Is the user that shared some 3D printable terrain still around? If so could you share the link one more time?

Wonderfully chaotic

YEEEEES BRO. I was worried it wouldn't make it because of the fires. Glad you got it! Merry Christmas!

>Buy sculpting a galaxy
>Full of really cool shots of star wars models
>Show it to nephew who ants star wars toys for Christmas
>"Where's Yoda? Where's chewbacca?"
"They're not models"
"I don't care then"

Mother fucker I can dome you with this book you little shit! It's bigger than you are!

You sound like an X-wing fag.

You sound like a fag.

Some of us appreciate the history of our hobby. On purely a modeling scale the first 6 Star wars movies are absolutely amazing works. Half the sets in the prequels were scale models and have amazing depth.

Stuff like Star wars is where our hobby goes from a kid painting a toy soldier to being works of art

Also I suggest opening it up soon. One of the items is perishable, and can only be out of refrigeration for 2 weeks.

Just having a jab mate, early on X-wing fags were rabid about it, aggressively arguing that characterisation was irrelevant compared to cutaway schematics and engine output stats.

Sick pit lord.

Is it goat semen?

My bad, I avoid all that cancerous shit. I just really enjoy seeing 80's movie miniatures. They spent more a week on model kits making them than most of us do in a life time. They would order $100,000s of shit whole sale and keep it in the back for kitbashing.

I get angsty when I'm paying £3 for a bit.

nah man goat semen can stay fresh for up to four weeks unrefrigerated

That's second edition not rt my gentleman

Goat semen needs to be refrigerated every 5 days silly.

If that rhino isn't full those marines are fucked.

.
If you re fridgerate the goat first does it last longer

Now I'm genuinely confused as to how long I can keep my goat semen out of my refrigerator. Its either 4 weeks, or 5 days...plz assist

probably best to use it now to be safe.

hey wip im making some minecart tracks out of paddlepop sticks and paperclips, but how can i get paperclips to be straight without all the kinks? so my tracks dont look janky

You'd be better off buying some brass rod. Dead straight and stiff. Way less fussing.

I'd just get proper scale model train tracks, otherwise you'd have to device a wire straightener system or get plain straight steel rod.

thanks, i dont want to go deep in for it though, its more of something im doing with spare bitz over a slow weekend.

Finished my Morty. Think I'll paint Snail boi next

Smothered on a quick and dirty drybrush on this.
Basecoat was purple all the way, was too dark in comparison to genestealer cohorts.

>whole day of layering skin tones up to white waiting

Fuck yes...

Can get something like this, but just the emblem free floating with no shoulder? I already glued the shoulders onto my bois. Thanks for the help.

Or a guide on how to print transfer sheets. That would be nice too.

These parcels are on their way, sorry for the delay, but now santa's bringing them on his sleigh, hope that's ok

>buy transfer paper (for ex. here: amazon.com/DerBlue-Sheets-Inkjet-Transfer-Transparent/dp/B075V339CY)

>spend 9000+ hours in paint to get your icon to the right size

>print on your water slide decal paper

>fin

You missed "let ink dry a day" and "gloss clear coat over transfer sheet to actually bind the design together", user.

Tell me Dexter, why do you have an axe and your killing stuff next to your parcels? Sending body parts?

Someone has a bitzshop with Tyrant Guard heads available?

I like how Saarbrucken sounds so ... uninteresting compared to Forth Worth.

Next stop: Bone white.

Making a lictor.
Posing always bugs me, is this decent?

Looks decent from this angle.

Is it hard to brush-paint with airbrush paints (vallejo, tamiya, etc)? Are there fundamental difference?

I only use some air metallics, but I can tell you these are amazing for edge highlights and smooth overcoats over thicker metallic foundations.

Some Ral Partha stag beetles as mutant bugs. Was going for a more red colour, but this looks okay.

I think I will pass.

airbrush paints are standard paints with a the pigment ground slightly more.

That doesn't really answer his question.

You're retarded. "It's exactly the same but the pigment is slightly finer" tells him that they're going to function exactly the same.

yes/no?

I got some big bugs with heavy metal bodies, and the legs are all separate and thin. On top of that, the leg sockets are a bit shallow, and the limbs are too thin for pinning. How do I make this work?

Yes.

Yeah, because everyone knows what you know, because we're telepathically bonded.
Use your words.

You could put a rod going up from the base into its belly so that it's legs aren't actually supporting anything. Not ideal, aesthetically, but it wouldn't be too noticeable and it's better than him falling over.

Varies with brand and paint type, i know GW air metallics are useless with brush.

That's a good idea, it beats worrying about the legs falling off constantly. Would work well with the giant scorpion that I also got. These guys are hefty.

the difference is that they come pre-thinned so you might not thin them down as much or not at all.

Yes.

Maybe, i don't know about the size of the model vs the sled.

Unfortunately, there is not hard and fast rule. For the most part, I have not issue hand painting with the vallejo airbrush paints, but they are thinner then regular ones, and there is always those ones that are no good hand painting, I've even had some that are crap even trying to airbrush on. But it's usually the bright colors that'll give you the problems, your darker colors are probably going to be fine.

gonna put in some presents and crates and put 5 reindeers infront of the sled
and it is my first scratchbuild so some proportions are a little bit off

I've decided to organize Secret Santa at my LGS (we've set up 25$ up to as much as you want cap) and matched people based on how expensive their gifts were.
Suprsingly 17 people took part in, and I managed to get Goliath!

Is he big enough to use him as a Big Trakk (he already have big skorcha in bitz so it would save me some time), or should I start preparing for kitbashing?

>Big Trakk
Fucking yes. You got plenty of room in the back for additional dakka, depending of which option you build and how much bitz from the kit you add, which leads to...

>kitbashing
Also fucking yes. After getting your wagon ready you'll have plenty of spare shit to build even MOAR ORKY SHIT.

Win/win

Can we have an updated list of ever country and how many people are taking part in the Secret Santa, if its not too much of a hassle, please?

Just to give you the idea.
A standard ork boy will fit behind the shooty end.
I recommend getting rid of the railing though, it looks a bit small in comparison. You could extend the platform with plasticard a bit, and drill on a few extra armor plates.

There is already a nice little area for a shoota grot at the top, and I bet there are several "jaw" plate pieces in ork kits that will bend around the driver's space at the front.

Ill put it here as well:

Since noone else wants to do it then ill give you some needed constructive criticism thatll take what you have here and make it considerably better.

1. your shading is a complete mess. there are several uncovered spots on both armor, cloth and gold trimming. and its obvious that youve put on way too much wash that has gathered in large, darkened recesses. next time you apply shade then make sure there is complete coverage and then look for any excessive buildup that needs to be removed in order to prevent darkening. as it looks now all the cloth looks really confusing and unnatural

2. shading large pieces of armor look messy with inconsistency in color and a flowy look. you should consider reapplying the base color on large areas to brighten it back up or something similar

3. it doesnt look like you have applied any highlighting to any part of the model which makes you miss out on almost a 3rd of what you can do to make details pop out

4. the blending on the cloth near the base to the bluish bright color has a sudden shift in color that looks more like youve dipped the bottom of the model in a pot of paint. Again highlighting with a common color is a huge help in blending a shift of color together.

from what i can see its obvious that you have the skill to do a lot better if only you took your time and paid a little more attention to detail.

Damn, they look pretty cool. What game/manufacturer are they from?

user who posted
here.

It's not just a chaos Chariot Sprue (Couldn't find the horses, only the gorebeast) but it's also a Korgas Krull and a Plauge Marine icon bearer also chaos marine bits.
And a sorta not Veeky Forums related gift. I hope my user has Breath of the G.O.A.T
Going to California. Hope my user likes conversions and Chaos. And Vulkan.

mega.nz/#F!Eex1gKIL!ffW6cUTbhnpv9juw8wlCgQ

have fun kids.

references for what this shit is:
kickstarter.com/projects/1989721065/warlayer-3d-printable-terrain
kickstarter.com/projects/rocketpiggames/tilescape-dungeons

And for those curious, there was a good thread on 3d printers here, if you wanna get into the game: rocketpiggames.freeforums.net/thread/136/afford-3d-printer-again

i have acces to free use of all these machines through my school:

eal.dk/forskning-og-innovation/projekter/fablab/prototype--build/

Would they be plenty enough to print out these designs? if so then i might have to read up on how-to

>free access to a $2500 printer and an industrial printer that costs about $10,000 US
>will they do the job?
Y'know, I think they just might get the job done. Barely good enough, but I think you'll do ok.

Sarcasm aside, you will likely have to tweak things a tad, since I don't know what exact settings would work best. But yeah, you can definitely print out all of these.

Not Morty user but still...

You state a few valid points, washes look spotty (missed skull eyes), and the bluish tint at the bottom looks shitty compared to the rest.

I guess you can get away with splotchy, uneven coats with Nurgle models; the moth wings look great, the armor looks nice as it is. But it needs to be consistent and tidy, even when you want to simulate a chaotic mess.

I also agree on missing highlights.
The braziers look too plain, chains are silver metal only, the sprites and the scythe look boring. The face is a mess.

All in all a nice table top standard, when details fade out because the model floats above a steaming pile of plague marines and poxwalkers, all in all a sick blob of brown, green and rust.
But centerpiece model? No.

i really like this but you should find some lictor talons at least on ebay or something, the big scything talons are iconic of the newer lictors.

also really, posing nids bugs you. carlos!!!

Thanks
I think its talons are big enough, already got mc talons, that are bigger than the proper lictor ones anyway.

Neat. ill read up on it and start spamming out some terrain

I like it a lot. Where is the head from?

YES

Mr. M from Whitman, MA your package is on the way!
If you want I can email the tracking number to santanon or to you through a throwaway.

HERE WE GO MOTHERFUCKERS

Just sent out the matches for wave 2.

Love you guys.

HAHAHAHA YES PLEASE

Woop woop the saarbrucken one is for me. FUCK IM HYPEDDDDDDDDDD
BE THERE ALREADY

>poke through bits box
>see same bit every time, never has a use
>same bit finally has a use, can't find it

Tzeentch, I am loyal, but this is some bullshit

lucky you. no news from my secret santa

The good old Lego syndrome.

>Going to California. Hope my user likes conversions and Chaos. And Vulkan.
Wouldn't happen to be 93924, would it?

Does anybody play bolt action? How do the miniatures line up to other lines?
I’m thinking of getting some of their German troops and converting them into chaos cultists but I’m worried the heads I buy will be too big for the bodies

They're very lanky compared to 40k models.

after making rusty/blue armour, it's time for some white checkers!

There must be some kind of transparent plastic rods you can use for that, like those from the old GW flying miniatures. You can use pieces from a broken Bic pen, even.

Ral Parthe Demonworld 15mm collection. Models are fucking cool, would make wonderful alter models for Warmaster.

What is that yellow shit?

Reposting for visibility, anyone who got a PA user for ss with initials JH please let me know, neighbors are not to be trusted.

Cheese.

Masking Tape by the look of it, user is painting checks.

>tfw your SS gift gets delivered today
I sure hope he posts the unboxing

Nothing makes you realise how dirty your nails are like trying to photograph 15mm faces.

>mfw Columbus OH user is getting his goodies today

God damn do I love giving gifts to random folks. Kinda wish I'd been more christmas-y, but I forgot to include candy.

Anyone got a F S from Houston? I haven't seen any posts about it, and I just wanted to make sure

Awesome sauce user! Thanks!

After removing those tiny cheese slices i got preety checker pattern, with keeping rusted areas untouched

Just test-packed the box, and Scotland user's gifts fit in the box, now to wrap it up and prep is for shipping early next week.

Yeah but what was that yellow shit.

Cheese.

are you daft? it was clearly masking tape.

Kr'ft Ork-erikan Cheese

Fridgeposting because I have no lightbox. Anyways I haven't painted in years so I'm a bit rusty, but this is one of 5 Grey Knights Termies I'm making for an Inquisition army. Not the happiest about the Inquisition logo, but its the best I can do freehanding it.

yellow masking tape? K. I haven't slept in 24 hours sorry m8.