Weab knives thread

Moritakas a great to get into carbon/semi-carbon steel knives. Profiles great and all, but the handle is a flunk, if it doesn't matter to you; don't, but i'd definitely change the handle.

As for the shape, is a Kiritsuke the typa' knife you REALLY need? Your kit seems pretty set, lotsa' robust shapes, would something like a Sujihiki be of use to you? If you think you'll survive using an 8" to slice meats, then by all means. Kiritsukes are great for some detailed work with the tip, but limited to their extremely flat profile.

Pic related is my roll. I tried to have something for numerous tasks in the kitchen.

> A general bread knife; not limited to though.
Nakiri, really one of my least used knives, but helps when doing large amounts of veg.
> A 210mm Gyuto for more detailed work, Masakage makes an outstanding edge; would definitely recommend them. This guy knows what's up.
> A 240mm Gyuto as a general work horse, sorta as a "beater" but don't let that fool you; takes a killer edge.
> A 270mm for ease of carving and meat butchery, also used as an all purpose knife from time to time.
> Of course, a petty/paring, 110mm of pure sexy.

>dat roll

Where would a dirty unwashed peasant such as myself get such a nice roll, senpai?

I love my Yoshihiro gyuto. I think it's called 16 layer or something

This one is from Proper Apron Company, it'll run you a good $225 USD. IMO if you don't have too many knives or carry them around all too often, it isn't worth getting a role that expensive. But it is nice, and does get noticed :)

How good are your peelers? I've been wanting to get a new one and by criteria has been either, a removable blade I can sharpen or easily replaceable heads.

Also, have you found any point to the bread knife. I get the idea of serration prevents crushing but I feel like a slicing motion with a very sharp knife would prevent crushing too.

Those sayas.... Where do I get one? Or should I have it custom?

Also what's up Knifebro!

psh, nothing personnel

If you've got $300 to throw around, it's worth looking into getting a CPM sreel knife. Kohetsu makes some some HAP40 knives that are pretty amazing, for instance. HRC64 but won't chip easily, and holds an edge an extremely long time, while still being decently easy to sharpen. Most CPM steels will be at least fairly similar.

Moritaka has known grind issues. Go read up on it on kitchenknifeforums.com

Buy an Itinomonn. Best knife on the planet for the money.

japanesenaturalstones.com/itinomonn-kasumi-270mm-wa-gyuto/

They're nothing special, just a couple OXO peelers. Can't seem to favor one over the other hehe. I plan to upgrade my entire kit after I complete the set, right now i'm looking for a Honesuki for butchery, or a short Santoku around 165mm. Afterwards, I might look into nicer peelers; these work well for the meantime

They're not actually Saya's hehehe, they're a special paper made to prevent dulling of the blade (or somewhat protect the edge). They don't do much and will eventually tear, but that's why I have a few guards coming my way :N) it'll be a substitute until I can afford some nice custom fit sayas. Can't really send my knives off for a week as I use them at work all too often.

KNIFE BROOO'S

Won't sayas blunt your knife? I don't see how a saya can be any better for your knives than a wooden knife block.

I guess in theory you could fit them with some flexible wood which grips the knife at the sides so the cutting edge can't hit the wood, but that doesn't seem to be the standard construction. Also it seems risky, since wood works and with the tight fit necessary it might just decide to not let it go. Could use some thin strips of teflon to make sure it always glides, but that removes the traditional mystique of a pure wooden saya.

>Won't sayas blunt your knife?

They shouldn't. They are made of relatively soft wood. And the better ones are made so that they contact the bevel of the knife and not the edge.

>>I don't see how a saya can be any better for your knives than a wooden knife block.
they're not. but they may be more convenient for transportation.

I've got a Kohetsu AS gyuto 210 and I've been very happy with its performance, even if I decided I prefer tall heeled blades.

HAP40 is an interesting choice for a kitchen knife as well, from what I recall, HAP40 should be more micro-chip resistant at ~64HRC than a pure carbon steel would be.

I bought one a while ago but the heel of the blade is more acute than it is in your pic. Can I slowly grind it to 90 degree with a whetstone or should I just live with it?

Most affordable knife brands that are good value for the price? Or are meme blades one of those things where you need to spend $300 to get a decent knife?

I'm considering a Kikuichi white carbon blade. Love the feel in the hand. Anyone have much experience with them in use?

I already buy your egg rolls on the weekends Chang leave me alone.

As said, there really isn't much of difference in terms of protection between sayas and knife blocks, it's just easy to move around and travel with your knives knowing the edge is well protected.

Some sayas are specifially fitted so that the cutting edge of the knife makes absolutely no contact with anything, while the cladding is fitted well enough to keep it from moving around.

Imagine it like pic related, where red is the contact between the saya and knife, white green being the cutting edge, is exposed and avoiding any sort of collision. With the contact going down the bevel, but not to the edge, there a bit of room for this. Although for zero ground knives, other techniques may be used

How meme do you want the steel, reputation and finish?

If you just want a nip laser, Seto pro-003 and pro-004 are ~150g Gyuto and Santoku in AUS-8 for 20$. You'll probably want to steel it frequently.

Ya, I figured later they could do that. As long as you keep a couple mm above the spine even if extreme increase in humidity made the blade stick a small tap to the top would get it loose.

Looks like annoying woodworking without a CNC, trivial with it though (with a good operator of course).

to be fair cast iron has its uses even in a pro-kitchen, cheap knifes not so much

beautiful blade but i hate these kinfd of handles

What about ceramic knives?

>Looks like annoying woodworking without a CNC, trivial with it though (with a good operator of course).

Ive made quite a few sayas, they really don't take that long to make with a chisel. I don't see how CNC would be useful unless it's for a mass produced knife that has tighter than typical tolerances.

Catching it on the bevel across a large part of the knife with a distal taper seems annoying.

With a CNC and some programming you can probe the knife clamped horizontal and have it put an exact negative of the knife into the wood for you.

Extremely brittle. Extreme pain in the dick to sharpen.

What's a good lightweight chef's knife for under $100? I'm going to order a knife for the little mexican lady that does prep in our kitchen since she can't into internets. Thought I'd ask here instead of making a new thread.

$60-$80 will get you a real nice Japanese meme knife, Tojiro DP or Fujiwara FKM are the go-to gyutos.

Chinese meme knives are even cheaper, a cai dao "chinese cleaver" or "chinese chef's knife" can be had for $10-$20

What does she use now?

Santoku? Gyuto? German Chef? Chopper? Normal length or the 270mm short swords some people want to wave around?

She just uses the house knives, which are an assortment. They are poorly maintained though. A co-worker has a global that she likes, but I'm unsure what model to get her. Shorter would probably be better.

Those seem like great prices for a decent entry level knife. Good entry level with the western grip and stainless body requiring less care. I'll take a look at picking one up, thanks mate.

Hey I got it, it's a reference to bleach!.

Good to see new knife bros! I've been busy opening a new restaurant. As far as the moritaks they're quality. Good edge, lightweight, balance. High level knife is fun to use

Misono UX10 210mm gyuto

Alright at home cooking, holds the edge well and not as heavy use. Wouldn't last long in a professional kitchen though.

Cleavers just seem so fun to use, being able to hack through anything with ease. Use em' in the industry at all? How do they fair?

How are Takeda's? Still iffy about the height and profile of their blades, but theres just so much positive reviews towards them, it's making me crave.
Also, who's the maker of that Nakiri? Seen it's style around, and sorta curious about em'

Anyone used 52100 for cutting onions? Does it have that carbon steel smell?

"Chinese cleaver" isn't actually a cleaver in the western sense, it's just shaped like one.
It's much thinner and is used for slicing vegetables and scooping them up.

The knife they use for proper cleaving is THICC and curvy

Seems like a lot of work. If it's the pointy you don't like, just round that off a little, I won't tell anyone.

I really want a kiritsuke that is 240mm, double beveled, and has a western handle. Damascus or pattern welds are nice but not deal breakers. Ive got a feeling I'd have to go to Japan to get one or have Dave Martell do a western handle or something.

Doesn't (((Shun))) make one?
Handle's not quite western but it's not the standard Japanese either.

You mean this?

Yeah, I've been looking at that. It looks really nice. But I have a shun classic, and while I think it feels alright for nakiris and smaller knifes, for a big main worker knife like a chef, gyuto, sujihiki, or in this case, a kiritsuke, I like that little bump at the end of the handle that western knives have. Maybe it's because I learned on my dad's german knives, or that it's also an aesthetic thing for me.

In any case, I would rather it be a wider blade and have an even less pronounced belly than the shun, almost like a cleaver, nakiri, cheffy hybrid. Performance like a big long nakiri but with dat sexy kiritsuke precision tip for small stuff. I already have a nice chef for my western techniques like rock-cutting and that shit, and this would be like my go-to asian style knife.

I'm so picky about it (and truthfully, I don't really need it. I'm not a pro chef.) that I would rather spend the money on something I adore than $250 on a compromise. Someday, user. Someday...

Hey memesters!
This is my DP. I got it around 4 years. I learned how to sharpen on this and the tip broke off ones so I had it adjusted so the tip is a bit short. Still chugging along though.

I've never seen a nip knife with a bolster which extends below the handle. Custom makers don't do them much either. Only drop forging makes it easy and efficient to do bolsters from the same stock.

A custom knife maker would be more likely to blind pin two pieces of bolster onto the blade. It's going to cost ya.

whats a good, general purpose meme knife for 20 bucks max

No, not the bolster. I actually hate the western bolsters because they get in the way of sharpening, I'm talking about the end of the handle, the pommel-thing.

Kramer makes pretty much a perfect handle, but he angles them down towards the cutting board, which I don't understand why. My dad has a Zwilling Kramer and thats the only gripe I have about the handle.

20 bux? Chinese cleaver, I guess, for maximum meme-knifeness. Or you could go to a restaurant supply and get a slightly inferior Victorinox-clone.

>Kramer makes pretty much a perfect handle, but he angles them down towards the cutting board

Because it suits a lot of people, Ergo Chef uses it, Ken Onion too.

Have you ever really looked at the way professional chefs hold a knife in motion? At the highest part of the upstroke in rock cutting, the arm is in this weird serpentine pose with the wrist extremely stretched.

The downward angle of the handle allows the wrist to be straighter at that point. A straight handle looks natural at rest, but the downward curved handle minimizes how extreme you need to stretch your wrist in motion.

Yeah I suppose that makes sense for those who rock cut a lot, and his knives are very very wide for a chef knife so that the user's knuckles won't hit the board at neutral or slicing position. I usually don't use a rock cut unless I'm mincing something small anyways. I've always preferred a straight handle because it's what I'm used to I guess.

pls respond

I have no idea what knife you are talking about. Post a link to it or something

alphaknifesupply.com/zdata-bladesteelC-52100.htm
it's a kind of steel, not a brand of knife

> Are there better options for spending my money
You need a sharpening kit before Japanese blades make any particular sense. If you don't have one, buying a sharpening set first will probably be best.

But hey, they are fine for what they do.

I'm sure I'm committing sacrilege here, but any thought to the Global knives? I'm somewhat of a knife novice but I've had the G-8 Chef knife for years. Easy to sharpen and use, and I was thinking of expanding my inventory (paring, filet, cleaver) next.

Any thoughts?

>needing anything but a chink meat cleaver

Not a big fan.

Ikea 365+ do the same cheaper, and then I still prefer the Victorinox Fibrox for that kind of knife.

The handles are kind of love/hate (most people hate)

Other than that, most of the rage you see directed at them is because they were the first Japanese knife to hit it big in the US, and knife hipsters hate that (along with Shun to a lesser extent)

Global G2 is a third lighter than the Ikea knife.