Is it possible to build a furnace to blow glass without using metal?

you probably need stuff with bellows and burn coal or anthracite or something. just look up how they did it 100 years ago. Don't think it should be very hard to make one

Propane home forge hobbist "blacksmith" here. A sufficiently large bore venturi burner will do for glass, and may be combined with a chamber made from just about any refractory material. I'm a cheap faggot so I use plaster/sand. It's not great in terms of longevity, but it's serviceable. My primary purpose has been metal working, but I ran a test with glass and it made short work of bottles. Sand -> glass I'm much less sure of.

based /diy/

Thanks

Be advised, when using a large nozzle bore the propane canister will cool very rapidly to the point of freezing. You'll think you're out of propane at about 50%. I keep two canisters and swap them out mass effect thermal clip style, so one runs while the other de-ices.

>mfw I wasted probably 60+ dollars swapping half-full propane tanks before I figured it out.

is charcoal + like a fucking hairdryer just messier or are there other benefits to propane

you can build a small and compact forge and regulate the the atmosphere (oxidizing or not) and heat much better.
>built this like 15 years ago

I've got a charcoal forge in the works but haven't actually tried it yet. I suspect it's cheaper, and I know they can get hotter. My interest in it is mostly forge welding, as, while propane will do it, single-burner is really not quite enough, and I don't feel like building another burner/going through twice the propane. For glass propane is totally fine. You could probably even use the venturi torch in open air and just blast your glass directly. That said, I never did quite manage a burner that would run happily outside of the confines of a forge. Could never get the mixture right without a chamber. I've seen plenty of other people do it though.

My problem is probably the lack of an expansion flare on the object end of the burner, but for some reason the appropriate size is really hard to come by and I'm too lazy/ incompetent to try to fashion myself one.

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yoooo what assembly did you use coming into the forge
not the regulator, the other end

any basic designs you can steer me toward?

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the venturi nozzle was made on a late, I just screw the whole burner onto the forge body with two screws and a plate.

My venturi is made from brass plumbing parts, a regulator, and a gas welding nozzle of a fairly large bore. Search YouTube for venturi burners; there are some really simple ones. Forced air is probably better, or compressed if you're feeling adventurous, but I haven't tried either. Remember you'll need a fairly high pressure regulator or it'll act more like a zippo.

Forge related. Post rainstorm

Flared nozzle, the depth of the gas needle in the head is adjustable and the cover over the head will adjust the airflow. Works quite well, you get a decent mixture and can adjust the pressure. My propane consumption was moderate, I never froze up a bottle. I reached forge welding temperature within around 5-7 minutes.
But yeah, they burner will blow itself out if not mounted on the forge. However, we did similar and smaller models who also worked open air.

Bigger, nicer forge related, but not used as often since the other gets hotter by virtue of its size.

The label on the pot I used advertised it could hold 65 tamales.

The chamber of the smaller one is molded from a smart water bottle but since heavily ablated. Tamale 65's is a column of duct-taped round gallon water jugs.

stainless plumbing parts, and the flared nozzle was made on a lathe by a friend of mine, it really improves the performance by quite a bit.

I've been pulling pretty energetic mixtures with my hacky one. Dat propane use though. I am using a fairly large nozzle to facilitate Tamale 65's big ass chamber though. My previous nozzle wasn't quite so gluttonous.

I think my biggest heat problem is a lack of containment. It's convenient for longer blades though

I put a door on the back, also helped.
The mix was pretty easy to adjust, warm up with moderate pressure and lean mix, then close the air slits a bit and increase gas pressure just a bit, voilà, rich mix.

Also built a retractable tool rest, for the longer pieces.

Fuck me this is A E S T H E T I C.

>Designs
My shitty torch is MSpaint related assembled from home depot fodder. My nozzle is a gas welding tip. Don't remember the bore, but it's good to have a range of sizes anyway. Nice thing about the design is, since the head is drilled and tapped into brass fittings, you can unscrew and swap heads whenever.

Thanks, I had to, space was a luxury in the workshop back then.

Those hammers. That anvil. HHHHHHHNGGGGGGGG.

I'm getting awfully jelly user.
>tfw using a forklift fork for an anvil, and have yet to cut it up and weld it into something that looks like one.
>tfw no arc welder, only babby's first TIG that can't > 1/4th inch.

Literally have three goddamn hammers on a 20 minute weld project rack. This all sits on a retaining wall behind a trailer in my yard. I guess we all have to start somewhere.

WIP knife. On a scale of 1-10 how much do I suck?

>That anvil
Great find on the local equivalent of craigs list, best anvil I ever had, the flat is all steel, welded to the iron foot. 150kg!
Hammers where just bouncing of it like crazy. I think I payed $20 and a bottle of wine.
Same with hammers and pliers, old industrial forge closed, I had them for free as long I would pick them up myself .

I'm fucking jelly too, I watch Forged in Fire and wish I could do that. :'(

Not too bad, I like it, you might want to slightly correct the edge and point tho. The edge looks uneven and the spear point is imo not pointy enough.

It's better now, but I don't have it on me at the moment.

Why no tang, user?

Plan is full tang (as made) + wood scaling for handle. I'm pretty happy with how the grip geometry came out.

I was going to say, a full metal construction would mess with the balance. It is a shame that you don't have up to date pictures, it would be interesting to see the progression.

Yes, the grip looks great allready, and even better with some nice wood on it. Whats the steel?

Its not vastly different, just less fucked. Friends and I have been discussing recording our efforts but haven't gotten around to it. Handle scales are still pending.

Right now the balance is a little ahead of the base of the blade. I figure that's appropriate because I'm an Alaskafag and am after a bush knife, but I'm sure the wood will slide it back some more.

5160

Personally, I'd have tried to place the balance a little forward, simply because the shape of the blade seems more like a chopper. What's the blade geometry?

10/10, this type of thread is an oasis in the desert of IQ and "Is CS a meme?" threads that is Veeky Forums

pic of my first knife, heavy, thick, solid,

honestly, I think we'd be better off in /diy/, but what the heck.

That's nice for a virgin knife, user. Though, why didn't you take the grind all the way up to the tip?

How do I get my blade all pretty like that instead of shiny interspersed with dark pits?

Probably, but its a little late now

I did not, that's hammered, the spine is really thick. It has a convex grind and makes a good chopper.
Bad pic then, the blade is left raw, safe for the grind. If you want to polish it, you have to grind it clean before hardening, then grind some more and then polish. I always had soft spot for raw blades.

didn't even know that was a board...