Menswear FW17

yeah probably my favorite part of the collection desu

see the problem with these threads is that ppl just post photos and think it's "contribution" or "discussion"
talk about why you like it and what you think about the collection, the brand, etc and trends
just saying i think this looks good means nothing

I really enjoyed Ann Demeulemeester. Usually when I've seen lace incorporated into menswear it's felt "forced" to appear masculine (sometimes to the point where it seems unwearable/ridiculous), but here it feels like it's been allowed to freely embrace femininity and it works with Meunier's take on the Ann D signature style. But maybe I'm just a sucker for dandy and victorian-inspired fashion.

Its total shit since she retired

Thats because teenagers on fa think their opinions are worth the same as suzy menkes or tim blanks because theyve looked at runways for the past twoor three years all while ignoring the last 30 years of fashion and ignoring the semiotics signifiers inherent in fashion.

They also refuse to acknowledge that to critique fashion you need a near enyclopedic knowledge of culture to even recognize the references designers are making

Disappointing. Prada, Paul Smith and Marni were pretty bad. Marni in particular was fucking atrocious. I dont even get why they went for that direction at all, especially since the label used to put a stronger emphasis on slightly more feminine details, which never was an issue because the fits never made you look gay, but FW17 is just "what?!" I'd have a hard time finding a single piece I'd like to add to my wardrobe. Paul Smith was ok I guess, some really cool shirts but nothing extraordinary good. He really lost his edge since SS/FW15. Recent collections have been meh at best. Prada going full leather/brown also caught me off guard. Welp, I guess I wont be spending a lot of money in 2017.

This season was Francisco Risso's first at the helm of Marni. Give him some time and hopefully he will settle in

where the hell do you even look to learn about these things

fuck those trousers look nice. are they waxed?

wouldn't really think of an ann collection when I see that pic but still looks great. dorian gray vibes

this book is pretty good for starters. besides that if I like a collection I tend to research the references. unfortunately, it's sometimes hard to find all the particular inspirations/narratives the designer took

start with vogue to learn about fashion shows

to learn about designers just pick a favorite or influential designer and read everything you possibly can about them

there are books on certain key designers like Ann Demeulemeester, Rick Owens, Yohji Yamamoto, and Martin Margiela
Rizzoli publishes some of my favorites

read influential fashion magazines like Vogue, i-D (particularly earlier stuff before they were bought out by Vice), and Arena Homme +

It's a long process of learning and absorbing bit by bit
there's no shortcut

thanks dude, will look into

a bit too feminine for Ann but I see this collection as Meunier's attempt to better marry his own designs for the label with Ann's original trajectory after he so overtly went back to a classic Ann look last season

should I make YouTube videos critiquing runway shows of I don't have a full grasp on all industry terms and references? or am I leaving myself open to harsh criticism? just a fan of fashion and think it'd be fun to do

fully agree. I imagine it must be constraining for a designer working within the limits of the legacy. at alexander mcqueen for example, sarah burton's designs aren't bad, but I feel like every collection is kind of an hommage to mcqueen himself. the ready to wear stuff is a disgrace in my opinion, especially considering the impact mcqueen had on fashion.

highly recommend both books on alexander mcqueen: savage beauty and evolution.

hm the latest men's collection from McQueen looked good

Have you watched the runway reviews and discussions posted on showstudio's youtube channel? Sometimes they can be insightful.

In my opinion the most influential designer on the fashion industry we see today is Helmut Lang. He created, evolved, and popularized so much that is now taken for granted from the actual clothing designs to his marketing approach to his runway shows.

I think learning about Lang is the best place to start.

Some people will point out that Margiela was doing a lot of similarly innovative things before Lang but I think Margiela's low profile and the secretive nature of his label failed to spark the mainstream influence that Lang did. That being said I'd probably read up on him after you're done with Lang.

If you gotta ask then no, nobody wants to hear what a teenager thinks about fashion that wasn't made for him

I agree, the collections are pretty solid, but I think it would be best if burton just started her own brand where she can do whatever she wants instead of milking the mcqueen name ad infinitum. im sure she wants to carry on the mcqueen name but its fairly clear kering is just using the commercial value of the mcqueen brand to rake in cash, which is really tasteless.

what I really like about mcqueen's recent collections is the fact that the lookbooks are shot by jamie hawkesworth, imo one of the most talented young fashion photographers

i honestly am pretty confused as to all the things you guys are saying but i'm excited to learn about it. it's fun to have something to learn about

it is man, the kind of things referenced and the concept behind a collection can be very intriguing. you will most likely start appreciating finer details as well, cuts and the way things are styled. you don't need to become some kind of anna wintour or whatever, just being able to express your opinion on solid knowledge and reason is pretty cool

Maybe we should create a pasta with essential information and links to books to better understand runway.

Not just that, the entire sticky needs major renewal.

This, someone needs to inform to mod about this or discuss it at /qa/

Comfy and cozy @ Dries

Shut The Fuck Up you stupid fucking attention whore who knows absolutely nothing about fashion fuck off disgusting curry cunt

God you are such a fucking ugly fucking retard

>to critique fashion you need a near enyclopedic knowledge of culture to even recognize the references designers are making

at it's best, this is what fashion critique is- but most people here never went to fashion school so we won't reach that level

I still think that we can have decent threads about this stuff though

holy shit why did you come back?

happy to have you back

good luck lmao.. we've tried this so many times

What is some essential reading/viewing on Helmut Lang?

dries was trash

The result of copy and paste: pastebin.com/mzxWJwcT

It's a draft. I'm open to suggestions.

Nice work!

Gap magazines are really nice too, Japanese publication that has all runway collections for certain seasons and cities. They're so fucking expensive but I can't resist buying them haha.

Yeah do it

Pick of the latest copy of 032c
19 euros but its well worth the insight it offers on lang

After you've read about lang read the section on prada and then burn it because the rest of the issue is full of nonsense and german political tripe

Can we always have these threads ? Theyre some of the best on fa

Off to a good start! Maybe pluralize "concept" to "concepts and references" just so newbies understand that designers don't always work from a single idea for an entire collection

Maybe Rei Kawakubo, Charles Frederick Worth, Madeleine Vionnet, Issey Miyake, John Galliano, Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, YSL, Hussein Chalayan, and Cristobal Balenciaga can be added to the people section? And instead of doing an "essential shows" section perhaps one or two shows could be provided as examples of each designer's work

Why Madeleine Vionnet specifically?
I like her clothing and what she did but there is a fucking lot women designers in 20th century that were as great and influential as she was.

I was more looking for books and online interviews. You have the mag? Maybe you could scan it in?

Endyma is a good lang resource also talk to the site owner michael he knows pretty much everything you need to know about lang

>let's just put a load of shit on him and send him out. maybe it will work
well... at least they're trying new things

I figure this is the best place to ask for this sort of thing; does this shirt reference something or is it one of those 'put pictures together in an interesting way' things
grailed.com/listings/303938

add this link to 'My Dear Bomb'
dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/4069019/YY My Dear Bomb EN - PRESS.pdf

The physical book is 100s of dollars at this point

It's undercover thing
You'd need to read the history of undercover and how Jun has developed the brand

enlighten us please

he doesn't know himself cause he's talking nonsense, it's just a cool graphic

why is helmut lang so much more influential than raf? they both had a similar aesthetic around the same time

>he's talking nonsens
nah
can't be assed to write textwalls to Veeky Forums

this is only an excerpt and doesn't really talk about fashion at all it would be pointless

its self referential, gila is an imagined organization of humans who protect graces (imagined creatures in uc world) and the rest is just jun's trademark cut & paste graphic design style

>this is only an excerpt
I had a full pdf at one point.. I thought this was it but you're right, it's just 40 pages

no you didn't
full pdf does not exist

yes I did

somebody did a scan

someone here? or another website

it was posted a while back, don't remember which website sorry

was meant for

helbers was low key but I really like the color palette of it all

les benjamins wasn't great but the quilted souvenir jackets are nice

when's slp?

Thom Browne was excellent as usual

I didn't really get it desu :(

what did you like about it?

The show provides a visual deconstruction of Thom's design process. Three views of the same collection are shown: suits outlined on the body, pattern pieces arranged on top of each other, and the actual suit constructed. The suits constructed are different weird takes on Thom's grey suit.

I don't know how "fashionable" it really is, but it was just interesting I think

Vaccarello didn't do a men's line.

Field blues are the new trend.

I've started a thread on Lang for your benefit and simply because it seems like it could be a benefit for all.

why is Lang so important to fashion? was he literally doing most of what we see now before anyone else?

is it fair to compare him to raf?

I think it's a fantastic way to execute the concept. I don't really care for his stuff but I appreciate what he's doing.

The sort of breaking of the third wall to expose the design process in the designs is engaging. It harkens back to Nemeth's deconstructed reconstructed ethos and his chalk line pieces.

That's a large part of it. A lot of what's taken for granted today comes from Lang. Get your ass over to the thread and find out.

then it doesn't exist

Hes more important than raf

I don't care if vetements is tacky , they're one of the few designers that are doing interesting shit

Should Vogue be babbies first fashion mag?

Well, adulterer, do you know?

asking for a friend

Vogue as a publication is filled with ao much fluff and shit its almost not worth it imo

Honestly i would start on vogue runway so you can read anyalsis of past shows and look up old vogue editorials (a shot of scotch with linda evaganlista is a good one) because i mean everything for the last 8 years has been pseudo political nonsense and articles about michelle obamas arms...

imo not the recent ones unless you like seeing the editorials for the established brands. dazed is better i think. not sure if it was the latest issue but a recent issue had a really nice interview with demna gvasalia.

also want to mention white fungus. its not a fashion magazine per sé, but i feel like it features really interesting stuff that, if you were a designer could form a concept around. really great magazine.

vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2017-menswear/vetements/slideshow/collection

please help me understand this

I fucking love this. Is pic related a girl?

just more of the same anti-fashion stuff from last year
far less cohesive though

seems like he just did a world tour of cultures and subcultures?

I think it's a dude

cheers user