Post your best credit card

Highest limit, lowest APR, best rewards, etc.

Other urls found in this thread:

salliemae.com/credit-cards/upromise-card/
twitter.com/NSFWRedditGif

Why the fuck would you ever need a credit limit over $2000? It just leads to a higher risk of fraud.

I bet your credit score is just shy of 790

What about cards with huge cash withdrawl limits?

It decreases your used/available credit ratio, which helps your credit score. And you're never liable for fraud if it's reported within 60 days.
766 according to Discover.
Pretty useless, as you get raped with interest on cash advances, but it would be interesting to see.

> 8k with Chase
> idfk
> Chase

I'm in so much debt.

>never
lol

s'truth, m8

Ima wait for some 14 year old to take a picture of his moms credit card

This, I need a new monitor

I always wanted to ask since flyertalk and churning are so hostile, do you only use Simon Mall Gift cards for minimum spending? Or do you use it regularly to rack up points?

I only ask because there's only 2-4 cards I can think of that would make it worth it to buy craploads of SMGC regularly for points since it doesn't get any bonus spending on any credit cards

Rarely for churning. I haven't developed reliable exits for large amounts. Don't want to be sitting on $5000 in cards racking up interest. Also no Big points except the 2% Citi card. The arbitrage is too low to make it worth it for me. Some people will hustle really fucking hard though.
I use it to get cash, and min spend, and cycle balances.

Do you have to ask for credit increase or is it auto?

Im at 5k on csp

My discover is only $9,500

Not that a high credit limit does me any good, I don't like having debt

Bank of America gave me an auto bump, but Discover made me ask for a bump (I just had to log in and press a button). If it's been 6 months since you signed up I'd go for it

Yeah i use Staples $300 gift cards with my inks, but I don't do any serious volume, only 1-3K per month

I only asked because 2% on those $500 gift cards have slim margins, and I personally wouldn't find it worth it for the Citi DC, Arrival+, or Venture, which are the only cards that would make a profit on them

I know people also use those gift cards for SPG points, but I don't think I could make that profitable with the redemptions I do and with the SPG program soon to be going extinct

Every month, when you pay your bill just call and ask. If they require a credit check say no. and ask for a reduced apr.
Particularly if you get a card with a higher limit. They'll know.

Yeah my company doesn't have a score good enough for ink just yet.

it auto'ed me a couple of times. i asked once and got a bump on another card (chase freedom)

Most fraud isn't committed using your existing credit card, it's done by using your personal information to open up lines of credit in your name without you noticing. Obviously your existing card is still at risk but this is much easier to fix than someone opening up lines of credit in your name.

If one credit card gets stolen you don't have a problem. Banks will refund you whatever money you lost and you can go on your way. If someone decides to take your credit for a ride so to speak though, you are fucking fucked and there's really not much you can do to prevent it. All someone needs is some key personal information and they can bullshit their way into free money.

To be completely honest with you family the number one way to prevent fraud is by having shitty credit.

You people talking about churning $500 gift cards: what gift cards are you buying, where are you redeeming them, and are you actually making money or just miles?

I don't buy Simon Mall gift cards because I don't have any Simon Malls near me. If I need to meet a minimum spending threshold though, I'll use $500 Walmart gift cards

For manufactured spending purposes, I'll buy $200 and $300 visa gift cards at Office supply stores to get 5 points per dollar on gift cards I buy there

A $300 Visa gift card has an $8.95 fee plus a $0.70-$1.20 money order fee every time I convert it to a money order at either Walmart or the Post Office

So I'll get a cash profit of $5.30 minimum when I do that, and more when I redeem the points I get on my Ink+ for transfer partners, or split the money order transaction between gift cards and make more money

What card are you using to do that? The highest cashback I know of (other than 5% rotating categories on Chase Freedom and Discover It, neither of which are on office supply stores right now) is 2%. On a $300 gift card that's $6 back; $2 less than the activation fee.

And doesn't ever credit card these days have rules against getting points for buying "cash equivalents"?

No credit cards can't really tell you're buying fuckloads of gift cards unless you're really abusing it and they really look it over

I have a Chase Ink+ and a Chase Ink Cash card, both cards get 5% or 5 points per dollar on office supply stores, and Staples sells $200 gift cards in the store, and $300 gift cards online

They're also business cards, which is why you may not know about them, and yes, I used made up businesses to get them, it's not illegal and Chase is none the wiser

How many points do you produce, say, every month?

As I said before, I only spend 1-3K on both cards per month, which gives me 5-15K points per month. There are a lot more people out there who MS at much higher volumes than I ever will

15K points will get me an American Airlines round trip home using British Avios, but I could be making a lot more since I can spend up to 50K per year on my Ink+ and 25K per year on my Ink Cash and get 5 points per dollar on both of them

I just don't like buying money orders with gift cards because they look sketchy as hell when I deposit them in my bank accounts, but that's what I've been forced to do since my serve died

salliemae.com/credit-cards/upromise-card/

anyone got a sallie mae? is it a good card?

>it's pretty much common sense never send money you don't have.

I don't get this meme. You can follow that same ideal and use a credit card. Just pay the shit on time and wow what do you know?

You're building credit, which the vast majority uses, even employers check your credit, with almost no extra work. All you do is swap out a payment method a few times a month... or even just once a month.

It WAS good - used to be 5% gas, grocery, and Amazon. I still have this pre-nerf version, but don't know how long it will be grandfathered for.

>I don't get this meme. You can follow that same ideal and use a credit card. Just pay the shit on time and wow what do you know?
exactly my point
>You're building credit
i'm most certainly not as there is no such thing here

Discover It - 20,000
BofA Travel Card - 12,500
AMEX Everyday - 2,000

>1.5% cashback automatically deposited into your brokerage account each month

Make way Blue Cash Everyday plebians.

what is a credit freeze

87% of people with a credit card rnd up paying fees and losing money within the first year, but I'm sure all of Veeky Forums is in the 13%.

A. pay the bill in full every month and you will never lose a dime.
B. with 1-5% cashback you actually earn more money than if you had used cash.
C. cash can be stolen, your card however is insured against theft.

Now if your a poorcuck who carries a balance and or spends more than he has in the bank then yea, a card is a horrible idea.

Yeah I hope the grandfathered Sallie Mae's last a few years, but Barclays loses money every time I swipe my card, as in sure other people do the same, so I can't blame them if they nerf it sooner

>All someone needs is some key personal information and they can bullshit their way into free money.
well that's not exactly true. at least i had to jump some serious bunny hops to get a credit card application in. (not get an actual card just to ask for one) i don't think someone would be able to pull this shit in my name i can't even count how many times i had to identify myself and my employer has to vouch for me they will call them by phone too after checking if the number is correct a landline and belongs to the company.

do they throw credit cards after you in your country or what?

If you're in the Americas, yes.

Otherwise, no.

I've tried to request credit increases but I keep getting declined because of my monthly rent. Is it worth my time to call their support lines to bug them about an increase to see if they override it or is it a huge mistake if I make my monthly expenses fluctuates a little when they ask for numbers.

Did they stop the program? That's unfortunate. Was looking forward to getting one of those

Yeah the Sallie Mae World MasterCard was discontinued for new applications in September 2015

People who got it before that still have it and still have all of its perks, but it's only a matter of time until Barclays nerfs our cards, they likely lose money on most of them since the only people who signed up for them when they were around were credit card savy people who don't usually pay interest

>your card however is insured against theft
uhm i don't know about that user.
seems to me the credit card companies only guarantee to stand in for the losses after you reported it stolen or if you can prove your card have been cloned and you were not careless about your pin code. there are a lot of things you need to prove in order to be exempt from the damages.

best way to go about this is to do everything you can to prevent your card or your card information to be stolen.

for example scratch the code off your card for online purchase. write it down put it in your phone as a fake number or note whatever just don't let it stay on the card. hold your nf card in a sheath that blocks radio waves actually you can just tinfoil your paper sheath but you can get actual sheaths for this purpose we tested them with an nf enabled phone and both works perfectly. then you need to change your pin if you suspect it might have been recorded.

i wish banks would implement one-time password features for pin codes you know you have a mobile app that gives you a time-stamp and secret salt based pin that only works for a minute or two. and can not be reused even if they somehow steal it.
bank can accept both pins the otp or the fallback (if you forgot your phone).

>there are a lot of things you need to prove in order to be exempt from the damages.

not true at all. I work at a bank, once the customer reports fraud they are exempt from any charges made fraudulently

we also freeze the card

>once the customer reports fraud they are exempt from any charges made fraudulently
from that point on yes that is pretty clearly stated everywhere in the paperwork.
>we also freeze the card
indeed and the costs of this and the new card come from the victims account.

i know all about this shit and plenty of my acquaintances got fucked.

one dude however came out of it alright. he reported fraud to the card company and to the online merchant both and they both sent him back his money so he got double back off what they stole from him. but that's like one case out of a hundred.

Somehow somebody got my card details back in February and was hitting up a couple of gas stations in El Paso.

Chase emailed me as soon as charges occurred, I confirmed they were fraudulent, they froze the card, sent me a new one, refunded the couple hundred dollars, and I got the 5% points on the purchases.

Really, you do not pay for fraudulent charges on your card, man.

bs dude freezing is free, and even if the customer fails to report within the alloted 30 days we still usually cancel the charges

credit cards are extremely safe

someone steals from your checking, different story, but cards are very safe

Discover has 17K.
My Chase Freedom card is at 1K.
They won't increase it, without a hard pull.
So I don't use it.

But the Citi Doublecash gives you 2% back on everything, Amex Blue Cash gives 3% back on groceries (and 1% at Costco), and Chase Freedom + Discover It give you rotating 5% back on groceries, gas, etc.

I have a glimmer of hope that Veeky Forums is a little more financially literate than your average monkey.

Make more money, live somewhere cheaper. It's just computers using a formula to determine how much credit to give you.

I don't know if you're trolling or just stupid (your fucking terrible writing hints toward one of those), but credit cards are vastly, *vastly* safer than cash. On all new cards you are guaranteed to not be liable for fraud.

With a credit card, you make one call and the charges are off your card; 10 minutes and it's like nothing happened.

If someone steals your debit card/PIN and empties your account, you're gonna be dealing with the fraud department a lot longer because it was cash that got stolen. Then you're gonna have to wait a day, two days, maybe 3 or 4 if it happens over a long weekend to get your money back. If something major comes up while you're waiting, you're just fucked. You don't have any money to pay for it.

If it's cash that got stolen, you're just shit out of luck.

IMO it's never worth a hard pull just to get a credit line increase. However, that's no reason to stop using the card; your tiny expenditures won't even be a blip on their radar. You should use the card to extract the maximum benefits, just like any other financial process.

Are hard credit pulls really that damaging to your credit score?

Literally every other 1.5% and 2% cash back is superior to this card except maybe the Barclays Cash Forward Card

>Citi Double Cash gets 2% cash back
>Fidelity Visa gets 2% cash back and also deposits money into your brokerage account monthly
>Chase Freedom Unlimited gets 1.5 URs/1.5% cash back, URs can be super valuable if you use them to transfer to transfer partners with a CSP or Ink+
>Capital One Quicksilver gets 1.5% cash back and has no foreign transaction fee

Those are all better than the shit tier Amex Schwab card, it literally has no redeeming features except for the fact that its better than Barclays 1.5% cash back card

>If it's cash that got stolen, you're just shit out of luck.
yeah but the difficulty in stealing my cash is exponentially higher than stealing my card info especially with these new nf cards. can't really compare the tow if you could i wouldn't complain. also if you steal some of my cash that wouldn't help you stealing more and wouldn't cause me any more inconvenience aside from the amount got stolen which would be pocket change i carry daily.

so i don't know about safer. the credit cards i get offered don't have any sort of this concrete insurance the bank rep babbbled about how good they are spotting fraud and then i will not be liable but if they don't spot it i guess i'm shit out of luck.

hardly

They're on your report for 2 years, and depending on the agency stop affecting your score after 1 year. The actual point loss varies, but around 7 or 8 points per hard pull is average.

>transferring rewards points to take part in consumer-whore air travel and vacations, rather than just keeping the straight cash
You're still right now, that card sucks.

Why are you even posting?

>Why are you even posting?
what truth hurts your little bird brain or something?

That's what I figured, that it was just a couple of points. I guess it's a big deal if you're all about having absolutely-completely-positively-perfect credit, but practically it makes little difference.

>Fidelity Visa
This used to be a Fidelity AMEX. I got it partly to spread out my networks but now they're making it a Visa. Oh well, I hope they upgrade their website, it feels like it's from 5 years ago.

I don't live in my hometown anymore, and I use the points to fly home to visit my friends and family

You'll drop ~10 points but get it back if you get the increased credit line and don't increase your utilization

Limit yourself to ~6 hard pulls a year and maybe don't have any for several months before a planned xbox hueg purchase such as a car or mortgage

It's only really important if you're about to get a major loan, like a mortgage or auto loan. Those couple points could put you a couple 0.1%'s lower on the interest scale, which could save hundreds/thousands of dollars over the life of those loans.

I've heard murmurs that having your total available credit *too* high can negatively affect your ability to get new credit. The reason I've seen is that lenders can see you make $60k but your overall limit is $70k, so you could go out tomorrow and charge more than you earn in a year, then not be able to pay them back. Heard anything like that?

I've heard that but it's well outside of most people's reality. It's unusual to have more unsecured credit than your annual income. At that point you've been working at it. And the few people who have been working at it, they have more sense than to wipe out their next decade's credit over one spending orgy.

>It's unusual to have more unsecured credit than your annual income
interesting i only got offered like 3 months of wages initially. but of course this could increase after some time.

Where do you live?
I don't see how this would work in the states, because they don't let you buy or load prepaid/gift cards with credit cards

This works in the States, or at least in the 5 states I've tried it in

Buying gift cards with a credit card usually isn't a big deal (although a lot of grocery stores are starting to stop it, but that's for another reason), buying money orders with gift cards is a big deal, but it hasn't been stopped yet

You can even buy gift cards online with credit cards in the States

Can you buy a money order with a store GC?

It's not a straightforward (or convenient, at all) process but, yeah.

I could kiss you!

Manufactured spending - credit cards become gift cards become cash

Thank you sir

i never thought about flipping stuff with credit card purchase...
i thought about returning goods to the shop in original packaging and getting the price back in cash. that was i get the money back like an atm and also get the cashback 3% from the card.
but maybe i can score some higher returns if i actually sell stuff.

I used to see these threads on FatWallet all the time. How the hell do people get such high credit limits? People making low to mid 5 figures had low to mid 6 figures in credit.

>in b4 poor
$12K from BOA
15% with Chase

I would like to close several small cards and only keep two big ones. But Chase won't do balance transfers at all and I'm afraid to ask for higher limits elsewhere so I can empty the cards I want to close. What do?

I'm making more money but my credit score dropped so I'm afraid they'll slash my limits or jack up my rates.

fucking seriously

>be me
>make ~$150k/yr
>one credit card, BoA Cash Rewards
>fucking $1,000/mo limit
>request for a credit line increase after a year of paying my balance in full every month
>fucking denied

what the fuck dude

I'm right there with you, man.

I have never had a late payment in the 7 years I've held the card, and Chase won't increase my limit to more than $3,000. I make just over $100k/yr.

Chase is weird. They gave me a $4K limit back when I was only making $32K. But in the intervening years, even before my credit dropped out of the 700s, they wouldn't do so much as a balance transfer at any rate.

Any transaction processed with a card must be refunded to that same card. You won't find a store anywhere in the United States that doesn't follow that policy, it may even be a law now considering how widespread it is.

Interesting. I'm a college student, unemployed, and Chase has me at $7k, Citi at just under $5k, Amex at $6k, and just got approved a few days ago for an Amazon Chase card at $5k. I have a few other lower limit cards, so now my overall credit limit is just under 30 grand. My reported income is just my parents' income (because I'm wholly dependent on them while in school) at $72k.

So basically, yeah, banks are weird.

what if i get a giftcard with the card and then buy stuff with the giftcard and get refund in cash?

Not sure how it works with giftcards. My guess is that they'd either reverse the charge on the giftcard or just issue you a new giftcard.

You could always just go out and try it though. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

what the fuck dude

Hell I got

Here's what I'd do, and keep in mind google is the fastest way to learn anything:

1) Research how credit scores are calculated, if you don't already know
2) Check your credit report at the government website (I think it's annualcreditreport.com but just google it). Just get a report from one of the 3 companies, and get a new one every 4 months so you can be (relatively) quickly aware of identity theft
3) Your credit card bank probably lets you see your credit score (or a rough estimate) for free, so check that too
4) Check with all the major banks for prequalified offers, again just google it
5) If nothing is wrong on your credit report, send out applications for the cards you're prequalified for. I put a high preference on cards with no annual fee so I can keep them forever, but it's up to you.

I bet the main issue is that lenders see that you don't have any medium/high limit credit cards, and just about nobody wants to be the first to offer you a card with a $5k, $20k, etc limit. So, add a bunch of cards and your overall credit limit increases. In a year or two, apply for more cards and you'll probably start to see higher limits.

And again, google everything you don't understand or are curious about. There are a ton of resources online that give good information. That is, if you care. If you don't, well, you're already making pretty good money so fuck it.

why would anyone care about cards you don't use?

Not sure what you mean. You mean, why would someone keep a card they aren't using? Length of credit history is important, one of the larger factors in determining credit score. The age of your oldest account or the average age of all your lines of credit determines your "length of credit history".

The longer you keep a card (in good standing, ie not letting it go to collections), the better your score will be.

no i mean if you have a card that you don't use why would it count in your credit history at all?
only the use should count hell in their place i would only count when you actually went into debt and repayed it and how much of a sum it was.

>only the use should count
That would make more sense, I agree. But this is just how credit scoring works ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I cancelled my credit card. I make over 120 grand so I really don't need money credited to me. I have a back up credit card for hotels and car rentals but that's it.

I usually just pay with my checking account. Man, Veeky Forums is such a shit board. Same threads with the exact same arguments everyday.

i don't get it user
no matter how much you make if you only pay 97% for everything instead of a 100% it should be worth it.

>Got a CSP for that dank $500 after spending $4k/3mo
>fell for their tricks and ended up spending more than I usually spend to meet that minimum

Well, I did eat like a king these last couple months and did buy some neat workout gear.

Gonna work on some easier ones next. $500/3months is incredibly easy

You sound like my very bright friend

He got a CSP after I told him about mine, said he would use Plastiq to pay rent and then stop using it after meeting the minimum spending threshold

He did, got 2 free flights out of it (and could have gotten 3 free Southwest flights and not 2 free United flights, but he hates Southwest), but he never paid it off, he bought other useless bullshit

That was the first 5K he got into credit card debt with, he then get another card and racked up another 5K on that one too

Now he's 10K in debt with ridiculous interest burying him, but it was worth it for him because "he deserves nice things right now for working so hard at his $13/HR job as a secretary, and he'll pay it back when he gets his next job for more money"

Some people you just can't reach

I'm not actually in debt, pay in full, and can easily afford what I bought.

That's the big difference there. I just spent more than I normally do and feel a bit foolish.

Generally my balance is around $800 a month, now I'm doing around 50% more but actually part of that is I'm paying various bills for my mother at the moment.

>"he deserves nice things right now for working so hard at his $13/HR job as a secretary, and he'll pay it back when he gets his next job for more money"
Honestly you should probably just cut him out of your life. Someone that stupid is definitely a toxic influence.

I have it wouldn't get it again.
The restuarants are completely bullshit. Its only like five in 10 square miles 4 I wouldn't eat at if you paid me.

It gets better on the business Side.

American Express is one of the biggest funders of small business.

If you've got a company. Seasoned for 2 years, good payment history, lots of different accounts in your Dunn & Bradstreet. and you Sign up for Amex business credit, using the multiple browser trick, You'll get 4 of the same goat tier card. Then you call and ask for $1M limit. b/c business as usual, you estimate you'll make $5M. Whatever.
First manager at the call center is authorized 100k limits. Just keep calling so they know you're serious.
Do this 4x and you've got 400k seed capital.

That's the shit tier Sallie Mae credit card, the other one that you can't get anymore was 5% cash back on gas, groceries, and bookstores (aka Amazon)

Two cards:
Barclaycard Arrival Plus World Elite MC, $20k limit, 2x miles on everything, 10x bonus miles specials, 5% miles back when spending them, 13% APR and no foreign fees

Citi/AA Executive World Elite MC. 2x miles on travel, 1x miles on everything else, 15% apr, and most important, Admiral's club access. I'm traveling 200+ days a year for work, so this is the absolute best. Nothing beats getting off a 14 hour long flight, getting a free beer and a free meal, a hot shower and a nap.

(And the best part is? For both cards, since it's business, my company comps all of it and I get to keep the miles.)