Fashion Thread

This is a thread about where fashion is at right now

I've been following high fashion for 6 years now and this recent ss18 season feels like the final nail in the coffin before a new cycle, everything is so fucking boring and the same right now

Other urls found in this thread:

vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-menswear/umit-benan
twitter.com/NSFWRedditGif

Which show was the best?

CdG H+ was a standout show, probably the best collection from the line in years, last collection that was this good was maybe fw11. cdgh+ has always been off kilter in that it's very meta : no matter what the seasonal theme was, it was always filtered through cdgh+ staple codes / vocabulary / construction, and so while it was always respected / never disrepected, it never felt "of the now", it always was "cdg doing cdg", but recently (esp. with the exhibition at the met and cdg as a brand having gained wider recognition as a brand that you should know and respect if you're a "fashion person") it seems more fashion ppl (whereas previously it was only cdg diehards that really appreciated it) are feeling like they need to like it, but it was never "of the moment" enough for them to really get into, but this collection really broke through that barrier and gave the fashion normies something to chew on while still remaining very cdg, while at the same time offering something very exciting for cdg fans

cottweiler was good for how on point its direction was in relation to the zeitgeist, very of the now, idk how it pulls apart as a line / product though, havent looked that closely into it but the few times i have, lots of pcs have been kinda weak on their own

and on the opposite end of that spectrum gosha was particularly great for the product, lots of covetable pieces apart from the bread&butter graphics. in previous collections the non-gfx pieces were still good in getting the overall message across but never felt like they stood on their own, and they always went on steep discount at the end of the season from what i saw

JWA is usually one of my favourites but this season it was a little weak for me, because his charm has always been his quirky, autistic in a good way signature, but this season he decided to take a step back and pare it down to be more "minimalistic", which in theory could have been a hit if he hit the right balance and infused wardrobe staples with just the right amount of quirk but alot of the pieces missed that mark for me and ended up looking "just" autistic, not autistic in a good way.

this season really felt like the time for new brands. the old guard has been consistent but one by one these past few years alot of the brands have undergone massive change / fallen off, and now everytime its fashion week, it feels like to me the meat isnt really there anymore, not alot of brands to be looking out for.

in contrast ive been seeing a fuckton of new brands pop out of nowhere on instagram and really start gaining exposure / followings, and im not talking about gay streetwear brands im talking contemporary brands (like pic related). joseph is one to look out for for sure, but there are so many others i cant even list right now. although i do feel that joseph would benefit from a more atmospheric artistic direction in their imagery for consumers like me who aren't purely product / wardrobe oriented, but need to be sold on the all-encompassing vision of the brand to really invest in it. i feel like if the line was presented in a way that told a story, it would add so much to the brand, because the name "joseph" alone evokes so many ideas, but idk maybe that's not what they're trying to do. but dope stuff regardless

Loewe was solid as always but being a ss season it felt a little weaker especially since the last fw was so FUCKing strong. i assume that the rtw isnt that important for loewe since theyre a leather goods brand but i really wish jw would establish a more definite core look for loewe menswear apart from the fisherman denim and tank tops, because as dope as the stuff is alot of the time its lost to me in the overembellishment which would still be dope if it was fleshed out with a stronger foundational line of wardrobe friendly staples etc

Personally ive really gone back to basics as of late, and i really mean back to FUCKING basics. my insight of the following may be biased by my personal direction, but at the same time i feel like a part of why ive been going back to basics is because its a dominant trend in the zeitgeist and i cant help but be influenced by it. anyways because of this, the very artistically driven progressive labels predominantly based out of the UK have started to feel a little passe for me. im sure its completely different for the people living there and who are part of that right now, but for me as someone who lives in a completely different cultural demographic, the initial impression these brands have werent strong enough to permeate into / influence any real life decisions in my mode of dress.

they definitely do provide some food for thought and a nice balance to the dominance of overly commercial brands, but to me at the end of the day, both these polarities are not strong, good design for me always hits a sweet spot and is well balanced, or able to be balanced out easily with other styling choices.

which brings me to a related point : the reason for my shift back to basics has been because of a shift in my lifestyle where i've been undertaking a personal project, and being on the go all the time and constantly being immersed in a variety of real life situations, many of which are removed from the ideal of the high fashion utopia, really hits you hard with a reality check especially if you've been a fashion nerd your entire life, always trying to push boundaries and try something different.

the reason so many kids today into fashion go ALL OUT FASHION, often on the verge of fashion victimhood, is because they're, well, kids, and they have no real lifestyle where they need to be presentable while still projecting an accurate image of their personal tastes / internal self.

forgot pic

like fahsion east, MAN, etc... the last wave of actual strong labels were charles jeffrey loverboy / wales bonner, and other than that i feel like most of these sponsored brands are interchangeable and were simply at the right place at the right time, but cant stand on their own, they're just another london / csm / art school brand who just happened to be fortunate enough to have access to the resources to produce a collection, theres so much talent coming from schools that dont have these things, to me it seems like its about luck but i might also be completely fucking wrong so dont take my word for it

and going back to kids being fashion victims

i used to fucking hate it when people said shit like "thats unwearable" "you cant dress like that past the age of 25", but you start actually living life and you realize these words definitely have merit. but the problem is the fags who would say shit like this were always non-fashion fags, like peeps who never actually gave fashion serious consideration. where i'm coming from with this is from the perspective of someone who has gone through like every possible phase / take / perspective on fashion and dress, so while i do still really fucking appreciate the "unwearable" shit and at one point was all for that shit, again, you need to balance it and find a place for it in the context of your place in the real world. and that's actually the coolest shit anyways because it's like, yo that guy looks so fucking dope but still doesn't look like a fashion faggot, his shits effortless but still stands out

loved martine rose up til last season but this season it went way off the deep end, like TOO fuckign normal, and with balenciaga and vetements also going off the fucking deep end this season it feels like too many normal as fuck clothes with a hefty as fuck price tag. she could have done some really directional off kilter shit with the entire rock climbing thing but yeah nah this was way too normal for me sorry

last season there were some kinks here and there with clever fabrications but saw none of that this season, u could literally thrift this collection with 90% resemblance

Jwa was red hot trash tbqh
bland, undesirable, tacky etc etc, basically everything that makes jwa good is thrown out the window
the whole stripping it back to basics and emphasis on nice clothes over concept works for designers like dries, but for someone like jwa whos main thing has always been conceptual and challenging, i don't think he really knows what he is doing in this aspect of the industry enough to make these types of clothes, and make them desirable to consumers

i think most fashion peeps would benefit greatly from taking into consideration the following points

1. am i putting too much importance on myself as defined by others recognition of the image im projecting, or my SELF, and my real standing in the real world? anyone can put on a jw anderson piece and have that "fashion person" cred, and walk around like "yo the people who know about jwa are gonna see me and think im dope" but most of the time that person actually ends up looking silly as fuck because u see someone like that and its so evident that that person is walking around thinking exactly that, like "YO I KNOW FASHION I KEEP UP WITH SHIT AND I BOUGHT THIS CONSIDERING THE PROCESS IN WHICH ID PUT IT ON AND GAIN RECOGNITION FROM OTHERS WHO ALSO KNOW ABOUT IT" (but who end up actually thinking ur cringey)
2. Could i take 1 thing off right now?
3. do i know the fucking basics? do i have the classical foundations of dress and style drilled into my subconscious, is my eye trained to be able to see that and build upon it, and play around with it? IT ALWAYS STARTS WITH THE CLASSICS
4. or u could work backwards instead of #2, start with 1 fashion item at a time only and slowly add subtle upgrades / change up elements / cuts etc to hit the balance

3 is particularly important in todays day and age because the codes of dress have been so mucked up and bastard vocabulary / composition formulas have been devised that have no foundation in anything classical that its so jarring and makes no sense (distressed denim with technical knit trainers? with grunge graphic tees?) and the kids are lost in this bullshittery, you have to know the rules to break them effectively but theyre just jumping into clothes in this era where people dont even realize those rules even exist, to them this new bastardized look is the rule, and they end up looking ass 100% of the time

a good brand to start looking at to understand classic vocabulary that is still able to remain relevant time and time again is Prada

if you understand prada's positioning and vocabulary you're probably good to go

to most new fashion people prada probably just looks fucking weird and old and outdated but nah son this is what consistency and timeless signature looks like

on a related point so many people havent looked at fashion pre-2014/2015 and thats a recipe for fashion victimhood and ignorance / unconscious incompetence

but its also one thing to see older fashion but its a whole other thing to consider and be able to understand previous design aesthetics in the context of the time it was proposed in, even if you hadnt lived to remember that era / wasnt aware of fashion and the world back then. its hard but looking at enough of it trains your eye. show fashion peeps any margiela mens collection from the 00s and theyd be like what the fuck is this shit? this supposed to be fashion? looks too normal

without realizing that that was what was very clever at the time and how it differed from other designers at that time and managed to stay relevant

you see old fashion week reports from the 80s and 90s and theres a fuckton of brands that are no longer around who still share some of the same elements of that time, but you see the works of the designers who are still around and kicking at the time, and you'll notice that while they still had 80s/90s shit going on, that their shit was timeless and could still stand today whereas the defunct designers were ***JUST*** 80s, ***JUST*** 90s, etc

i also dont think most fashion people realize that a "fashion designer" isnt some magical career that stands on its own as a "designer of fashion", but is actually very much more like a "product / industrial designer" in the process, that just happens to work with fashion as a medium.

what im trying to say at the end of that post is :


the masses think "fashion designer" is "FASHION designer", with an emphasis on FASHION, but in reality its more like "fashion DESIGNER", with an emphasis on DESIGNER, as in a person whose profession concerns the DESIGN of an object first, but one whose position within civilization / culture belongs to the world of fashion

its kinda hard to understand unless you've actually been on the production end, unless you've actually tried designing shit on your own, and i dont mean diy projects, i mean actually trying to undertake / pursue designing / engineering a product that REAL PEOPLE in the REAL WORLD will pay REAL MONEY for to use in REAL LIFE

side note rick is fucking strong as always. god damn no words needed hes a designers designer

same with thom. FUCK i love designers who have such a distinctive signature that they can fuck around with season after season endlessly, whose work is defined by their linear lifestyle and universe. for me as a millenial being bombarded by and having access to all the past eras and who is defined culturally as being the copy and paste collage generation of collectives, i really envy them cuz they are able to be so linear in their alignment (life = work) whereas people like me are influenced by too many things that they are equally into

but that really comes down to living your life first and having that aspect really locked down, then being able to filter the various (often juxtaposing / contradicting) influences under a singular vision that is rooted in your LIFE, not in your fashion tastes

i think im getting there though, thats what my recent going back to basics is i think, rediscovering and redefining my roman pillars then starting a garden within the boundaries of those pillars

I preferred the PVC spam one

man vetements REALLY went back to their roots with this one, perhaps even farther back than where they'd started at

collection itself as seen in the catalogue does nothing for me and is worrisome as this is supposed to be luxury fashion

but commercially its quite clever

just feels like this was the season they just decided to sell out whatever morsel of integrity they had left (not that they really had any to begin with because they weren't really trying to do "FASHION", they were trying to do wardrobe but perhaps strayed / experimented a bit and now they're back, but this time with enough of a following for the original "wardrobe" proposition to be commercially viable.

dont love everything about the brand but cant deny the fact that every move they make is absolute genius from a business aspect

yo LOOK AT THIS MOTHERFUCKING ASS DOUBLE SHIRT

yproject just won the andam, hope this lets them continue to push the boundaries but also establish strong bread&butter products

man actually with every brand with strong artistic direction i want them to have a more basic look to buy into but i dont even know if thats the best thing to do for the brand in question

but its what i want though

so MAKE IT i demand you

raf was good wont even bother elaborating

good shit

yang li criminally underrated
fucking love this movie trilogy thing hes been doing

yohji sucked ass this season clothes are soulless af but yyph is doing better than it ever has commercially

which sucks cuz people becoming aware of yohji now know nothing about big suits and the foundation of his menswear so u get turbonormies saying yo i love yohji man then getting confused when ur wearing a B IG yohji suit

anyways im out i dropped by for my annual fashion sperg thread that gets progressively half assed every time

and i think this will be the last

peace

oh also it hasnt been released yet but next season's new helmut under shayne oliver is the best fashion ive seen in a fucking minute

seriously you guys aint ready for this its fucking perfect helmut is going to be a good meme again hes done it hes actually revived helmut lang

i never cop shit at retail but i already know im going to be buying some of this stuff as soon as it hits shop floors

good thread

I love fisherman/surfer clothes so I'm in love with loewe collection.But I have to say that some of the clothes look a litle new era gucci.

I thought that was a screencap of blade runner.

sames

Haven't seen Blade Runner in ages, but instantly saw the connection.

Which scene would it be exactly? How does it look so Blade Runner other than the purples, the rain, the chinatown look?

Not at all...

I enjoyed hearing what you thought, thanks for this thread.

wasnt me learn 2 reading comp

>you need to make a new thread specifically for fashion to talk about fashion on a fashion board

And people still defend Veeky Forums

W2c trousers like those?

Read the file name user.

decadence, tree of life, holy jacket, power of ceremony, and armour of peace were all great and i would rate higher than this past season so not really sure what homme plus collections you've been watching this decade but rei has been incredible "in the last few years"

also,if you were a "fashion" person at any point in the last three decades you already respected kawukabo well before the met, in fact that is why the met did an exhibition on her. the only other designer to be honored at the met in their lifetime was yves saint laurent guess fashion people really only dug on yves after he got a met exhibition LOL

fuck some of the shit i read on here gives me a fucking anuerysm i swear to god

yong go home you're drunk

Glad to hear Helmut might be back! I need more variety. How's Raf at CK?

cdgh+ is the best of the best when it comes to menswear

thats just a difference in opinion

diehard cdg fans i know have been unsatisfied in the past few years like me, holy jacket power of ceremony and armour of peace were way too formulaic as is expected from h+ but had very weak motifs and themes being riffed on, look past it and it's just the same old staples the same old cuts with lazy seasonal design motifs that werent very clever (ooo asymmetrical wow holes and shit damn ARMOUR WHAT damn!! rivets and shit on shirts like armour shirt SHITTTT) last collection that came closest to being as good was tree of youth ill give u that one

womenswear has been good past few years, mens has been slacking and lazy af. fw17 was literally an amalgamation of motifs and staples from the past few years put into 1 with 0 creativity

sure every fashion person knows of rei and definitely knows she is respected but what im trying to say is recently especially with the highlight being given with the exhibition, fashion people who didnt really care for cdg past "oh its a brand im supposed to be well aware of and into because if u dont then ur not a good fashion person" are all scrambling to pretend like they were about it past the basic knowledge they had of her work

you sound like an internet fashion guy and sometimes real fashion things cant be communicated to internet fashion guys for reasons that wont make sense to u until u stop being an internet fashion guy

u know how i know? cuz i was also an internet fashion guy lol!!

no its not lol

how

good shit the pairing is perfect its like an american miu miu + rafs impeccable eye for directing a brand's universe both in design and operation

yeah actually rereading your first comment i was being hella reactionary sorry, i actually agree with most of what you said

sorry for making an ass of myself

and yeah actually 100% spot on with the fashion people being into rei all of sudden thing should have stopped and actually read what you wrote my bad dude

also thoughts on new gucci? seemed pretty boring imo not bad just not as exciting

most other threads serve their own purpose, while this ones purpose is specifically for shows and collections and discussion

yong dude fucking don't get me started on normies liking yohji now fucking every single discord and reddit faggot loves yohji all of a sudden because dude drapes lmao! straps lol!!! meme prints!! lol i bet these wool gab pants will look great with my acr sneakers and acronym shell!!!!

glad hes's doing well but it feels like people are checking yohji off a list of designers they are "supposed" to like to have internet fashion cred but they don't really "get" yohji or have looked at any of it out of the last 5 years

Lately I've been really into Haider Ackerman's most recent release at Berluti, I think it all looks stunning and is such an interesting use of contrasting materials which further emphasize the different shades and patterns used for the actual clothing. Pick related is my favorite of the entire collection, the velvet jacket is such a fucking grail but I know I can never afford it until I'm much more successful in life lmao

pure jewelwave my man

they wont bother getting gab and just find the grossest shit cotton they can find for cheap

true very true

>Jewelwave

This is a new meme that I have never heard of.
What is it suppose to mean?

you must be new here lad

I like how Vetements is the fashion equivalent of high quality shitposting

Why do people even care about modern fashion shows? It's not like any of the pretentious sperg outfits ever look good or take off from these shitpits anyway.

i made like 10 long posts about it in a thread a while back might be able to find in the archives

its still good i just gave up trying to incorporate it cuz my lifestyle doesnt call for dressing like that anywhere

hey op

im not a fashion guy but i dabble a bit --- just popping in to say fantastic thread

Do I get to commend both of you? Yes. Fuck off with your twit attitude

I'd rather have boring fashion that actually looks good rather than all this retarded circus shit.

too bad zegna is both boring and looks like shite

wow this thread is both faggoty and autistic

good job op, you fell for the high fashion meme

Is your conception of not being boring and looking like shite dressing like a retard?

People like you are the cancer blots that stain our board.

Return back to the pit(reddit) from whence you came and trouble the living no more!

You realize this is a {FASHION} board, right?
Go back to your >is pizza effay threads

I love this unironically

>It's called fashion. Look it up.

i can decide whether something looks retarded for myself, not just assuming everything that isnt spewed out by commercial italian luxury brands in milan fashion week, that have xxx amount of years of heritage and are designed for out of touch 40 year olds is 'dressing like a retard'

>Guys, it's fashion. You don't understand.

>Cosplay? No, you idiot. This is fashion.

calm down you autist

>i can decide whether something looks retarded for myself,
Clearly you can't.

>not just assuming everything that isnt spewed out by commercial italian luxury brands in milan fashion week, that have xxx amount of years of heritage and are designed for out of touch 40 year olds is 'dressing like a retard'
Is your conception of not being an out-of-touch 40-year-old dressing like a retard?

>clearly you can't
well i never shared my opinion on anything that you have stated as looking retarded in this thread, have i now?
>Is your conception of not being an out-of-touch 40-year-old dressing like a retard?
no, its not being satisfied with boring tailoring i could find anywhere because its been done by every menswear brand for the last 20 years
i can completely understand the place of this type of clothing in the market, but you would do well to understand fashion isnt just for one kind of person with one certain set of tastes

>well i never shared my opinion on anything that you have stated as looking retarded in this thread, have i now?
Implicitly, yes.

>boring tailoring
Is your conception of not being satisfied with boring tailoring dressing like a retard?

>you would do well to understand non-retarded fashion isnt just for one kind of non-retarded person with one certain set of non-retarded tastes
That is definitely true.

It's an opportunity to see what works and doesn't, you know give you ideas?

Moron.

ahhh, so now the traditional menswear enthusiast admits to a little liking of somewhat eclectic fashion
if you actually appreciate the type of fashion that you claim to, then im sure you realize exactly the type of place the """"""retarded fashion"""""" fills because youve been there and done that
im not going to go into specifics, but its pretty much, this type of importance on certain designers that you see in this thread is designated to those who have at least proven at some point to have some worth and value
their current collections may not always reflect that, but fashion critics will be there to make a decision as to whether these designers are still able to have an impact and are able to advance the current state of fashion, and if they arent, these designers will eventually lose popularity and fall off the face of the earth
you shouldnt be looking at these collections as "well this is shit, i should just completely ignore anything that comes out from this designer ever again, but rather, this designer has cemented their place in the industry, lets see what they can produce for us this time and see if it has any value, and then if not disregard it"
not every designer is perfect and their collections shouldnt be treated as such, its not a completely black and white matter, but rather something that should be discussed and debated, furthermore, the collections themselves should be disseminated into parts which are positive and negative, especially if the designer is one of prominence, you should also be able to discern if there are any parts of the collections you like and dislike
now this of course can be a bit tiring and too much for some, hence why the type of fashion you like exists, and i completely understand that, but if you can understand why both types of fashion exist, then you are better off than most

Does anyone have pictures of how the Undercover D4511 Earmuff Maniac jeans fit? Or any other recommendations. I'm trying to find a pair of jeans that won't fade.

>ahhh, so now the traditional menswear enthusiast admits to a little liking of somewhat eclectic fashion
I never said I didn't. You wasted your time writing the rest.

that ann d pic you posted would disagree

Disagree with what?

nvm read your previous post wrong my lad, but do tell my why you think i wasted my time writing the rest of that post

Because you're responding to a point I never made.

but im trying to give my perspective why its not all "retarded fashion", or at least why if it is "retarded", it exists in the first place

if you like fishermen check this older collection:

vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2015-menswear/umit-benan

went to the dries store in antwerpen a few days ago. they mostly had older stuff on sale, made me want to kill myself for being broke. don't think I've ever felt cotton that nice.

I know they're from Loewe but is there a style of fabric or pattern that they're called?

i hate that raf is still using dated new order/ joy division prints

like his brand doesn't already have enough negative fuccboi/streetwear stigma attached to it

I saw Gucci before I saw Loewe, I agree. Without filename i'd have assumed Gucci, especially from the top.

yeah dries's choice in fabrics is unreal

b

Undercover's women's line is so damn top notch I can't understand why can't Jun get his shit together and make at least one good men line after so many lackluster years.

I really liked Issey Miyake my dude but i agree with u

you do realise he's just putting out there the things he enjoys and is interested in right?
much like the sterling ruby/mapplethorpe/etc stuff he's done, it all comes from a place of genuine interest and respect for these things, I'm pretty sure he's not going to go and change that all because some kids are going to wear it, infact I'd assume he'd probably be quite pleased to know the current generation is also appreciating them due to his work, desu that's what i think the purpose of this collection actually is

lmao this looks so fucking dumb. cosplay trash haha

id laugh in this ugly faggot's face if i saw him wear this in public holy shit LOL

If he thinks that he's kind of deluded desu. Yes there are some people who appreciate Raf using New Order/Joy Division references but let's be honest here. The commercially attractive crowd for Raf is hypebeasts who think they're cultured for wearing Raf instead of Supreme. They don't give a fuck about New Order or their music but just think the print is cool. Personally I think it's a bit boring, with David Cavasant letting dudes like Travis Scott borrow the AW03 parkas those pieces are very much desired (as seen by the hilarious rip-offs Zara and H&M have recently cooked up). Now it's just seems like Raf is kind of re-making those pieces because he knows some rapper will eventually wear it and oblivious kids will follow them.

Rick's latest was... interesting.

The collection was obviously inspired by Blade Runner. There was a jacket somewhere in there that had the words 'Replicant' on them.

They take risk with fashion and it's something you can grab from. To be honest most high fashion doesn't sit well with me but I do draw some inspiration from it.

This has actually been an interesting thread compared to most of the garbage on this board.

I agree with some things and picked up some inspiration here.

Interesting thread, thanks.

that price tag ;-;

Those are one of the few shoes from Rick that I would actually like to wear, they're the most interesting shit i've seen in a while.
>$ 6.293
damn

Phenomenal. Wow

Dumping my favorites from Margiela's femme

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