Dark fashion thread

a1923/Adiciannoveventitre
double zip boot

Carol Christian Poell drip sneaker

>tfw no CCP high neck leather jacket ever

This guy seems really out of place

But, that's Poell himself.

turbolol

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any alternatives that dont cost a fortune?

god effin damn I miss stylezeitgeist :'(

It's Faust's fault. What a fucking insufferable cunt. I wanted to make an account there and post, but I'm afraid they'll judge because I'm not wearing shitty bohemian peasant clothes. I go for Julius, not Geoffrey B. Small. But even more than that, I feel like they don't like newcomers.

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red boots guy and the brunette in the middle are really effay

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horisaki hats. any other companies with good dark fashion hats?
yohji and cdg sometimes comes up with good items

Explain, what is dark fashion?

hot topic shit that costs over $500 for a t-shirt and you can only find through word-of-mouth on darkweb forums
take paul harnden shoemaker. dude can't just sell at barney's like everyone else. no.
he materializes every 3 years on the winter equinox and sells 2 pairs of shoes to an irish goatheard.
The rest of us are supposed to track this shit down

how is this dark fashion?
the photography is definitely noir but he's wearing common projects ffs

Holy fuck this looks amazing.

reinhard plank
aleksandr manamis

nice!
what's that japanese company with (9) in their name?
I've seen their hats paired with yohji stuff a lot

Number (N)ine?

I'm guessing you're thinking of something else but it's not ringing a bell for me.

No that's it. Nailed it. Anywhere to cop stateside other than by using rak?
I'm not mistaken in my belief that they don't sell outside Japan, right?

also Danielle Kreuz makes some awesome hats, mostly for women
kreuzzz.com/

she does custom work as well as her own collection
I appreciate her dedication to traditional millinery and sustainability

N(N) is an interesting case because, similar to Helmut Lang, there are two periods for the label. It was started by Takahiro Miyashita in 1997. The label closed in 2009 when Miyashita left but it was revived the next year by the parent company. The new label basically just riff's on Miyashita's original ideas without adding anything new.
For whatever reason Number (N)ine has recently been rediscovered by the streetwear rapper crowd and is popular and collectable again. I don't know much about the new company but I'd imagine there are some overseas stockists or at least some online shops.

probably goes without saying but the archival n(n) stuff isn't 'stocked' by anyone and the only source is second hand

Also on a related note, Miyashita's current label, The Soloist, is a lot less streetwear and a lot more avant-garde. They've put out some great hats.

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Thanks for the history lesson. I didn't know much about the brand except that one iconic picture that's always floating around

I assume you're talking about a runway shot from his AW09 collection, A Closed Feeling. I think that was his strongest work with the label and it definitely foreshadowed the direction he's taken with The Soloist.

vimeo.com/44990403

Kek

You sound a bit bitter, friendo

I'm moving to a colder part of France in a few month and really need a jacket, but not a long one. Any suggestions , especially since I'm a poor fuck RN ?

Also I'm still representing Amy Revier, god do I like her. Glad to see this thread continuing.

Rick Owens coats from SPHINX

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ID on pants ?

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I have no idea. First pair looks like Devoa, but not sure.

Damn thanks, I need pants like this for my leather Ramones..

Also next thing on the list is short tongue Geos, would you guys rather go for the all black or the classical colorway ?

In my opinion, you shouldn't get Geos at all. Whenever I see a fit with Geos I think that other shoes could've made the fit better.
Also, there's this thing going on with streetwear igs that popularize geos and push them into streetwear.
>geos, skinnies and an off white tshirt

If you must, get the classic colorway.

I know about the Geo meme, but the short tongue ones tho ?

And I'm just looking for shoes to expend my Avant-garde shit like I'm so bored with what i own rn.

I was thinking about Invecchiato from Ann D but it isn't the same look

get the all black pair.
I have all black and white/teal mastodon geos and I think that the black geos work especially well with the dark avant-garde aesthetic.

If you wouldn't get geobaskets what shoe would you recommend (same price range & similar style)

This is not fucking dark wear its tech wear you dipshits.

You don't know shit, do you

>guidi boots and leather jacket
>tech wear
yeah right...

I wish

Yes all black short tongues are sick as heck

That aint fucking techwear lmao

what a bunch of autistic faggots

Is this dark wear?

The absence of negroes = better aesthetics. This looks beautiful.

id on jacket?

booth look like devoa

yes

Anyone know the origin of this picture or can ID the clothes?
These are some amazing fits imo (albeit the mask takes it into cosplay territory)
How would you put a fit like this together?

looks like soloist

another great place to cop shit stateside:
idolbrooklyn

thirdlooks.com/2013/04/inventory-magazine-no-7-styled-by-stephen-mann/

Undercover. The necklaces give it away.

We're gonna discuss some dark fashion here because you all seem to be new/fa/gs. First point is: what is the definition of "dark fashion?" Others may want to discuss this in more detail, but here's my take: the term dark fashion is nebulous for a reason, and there are multiple aesthetics or styles under the label dark fashion. For instance most of us would agree a brand like Ann D. is dark fashion, but a more artisanal brand like Deepti is also dark. Ann is gothic or new romantic in her take on fashion, while a brand like Deepti is more natural in the use of their materials, and their stylings; fitting the term artisanal. Then there are other brands completely different from those two. Julius_7 comes to mind, but it (older collections) takes stylistic cues from the techno scene, and is seemingly sometimes very futuristic (like Rick Owens). For some reason, older Julius really vibes with me. Others may like Carol Christian Poell, or the always famous Tricky Rick.

Another issue seems to be the conflation of techwear with dark fashion. Sometimes techwear can be dark fashion, as again, it is such a loosely-defined word, but sometimes it is not. If you look at ACRONYM, the most famous of all techwear brands, you'll see most pieces don't really fall under this term, but if you change the label to, let's say, Arc'teryx Veilance, a lot more of the pieces now seem to be dark. Another label that can be dark fashion and techwear is Stone Island Shadow Project (a higher priced collaboration between Stone Island and ACRONYM). Personally I don't like ACRONYM as their prices don't really match up with the interesting and innovative fabrics you think a label like that should entail.

The last and final point I can think of is that there are so many brands that fall under dark fashion that make it really difficult to understand what this fashion style is. I'll make a list now of brands I know that should help kickstart any people trying to get into this fashion.

Dark fashion was started with Carpe Diem, so I'll start with that brand.

BRANDS LIKE CARPE DIEM OR OFFSHOOTS THEREOF: M_moriabc, Ma+, Taichi Murakami, A1923, Guidi, Individual Sentiments, Label Under Construction, Maurizio Altieri

ARTISINAL BRANDS (or brands that are approved by Styel Zeitgeist): Carol Christian Poell, Inaisce, Deepti, Werkstatt Munchen, Geoffrey B. Small, Paul Harnden Shoemakers, Zam Barrett, Sruli Recht, Thamanyah, Song For The Mute

The two above aren't well-defined, and sometimes they go together

BRANDS LIKE RICK OWENS: Gareth Pugh, Ann Demeulemeester (kinda hard to tack this one down)~Stephan Schneider is similar but much more simplistic and less gothic, Damir Doma

JAPANESE GOTH BRANDS: Devoa, Julius_7, the Viridi-Anne, Takahiromiyashita The Soloist, Siva, Diet Butcher Slim Skin, Kazuyuki Kumagai Attachment, Lad Musician, Lumen et Umbra, Nude: Masahiko Maruyama

SPECIAL OUTLIERS FROM THE ONES ABOVE: Yohji Yamamoto, sometimes Comme des Garçons (earlier stuff usually)

This is just my list. Please feel free to add on or point out mistakes I made. Discuss.

What makes you say that dark fashion was started with Carpe Diem after you just got done saying that it's a broad term. I'd argue that Yohji was doing 'dark fashion' way before CD began.

Your label comparisons are pretty ridiculous. Ann D isn't really like Rick at all. Lad Musician isn't goth, it's a rock aesthetic. In fact, most of the labels you listed as 'Japanese goth' aren't particularly goth at all.

Sorry man, that came off as pretty dickish and combative. I appreciate the time you put into your posts; I just feel they could be refined a bit. I'm excited to see this thread still around and I hope it's still here when I get home after drinks.

No, you weren't. I was just being very lazy, and trying to make it fully comprehensive without having to subdivide into further categories.

To answer your first question, when Yohji's first collection came out, he was labeled with the term, "Hiroshima chic." Carpe Diem was the first label to really be called goth.

Also Lad Musician is rock based, but so was Number (N)ine when it first came out. It was even labeled Americana. You can still see that influence in the Soloist. Maybe LM wasn't a good choice, but usually people pair it with these other brands. Also explain why those brands aren't goth. I can see Lumen and Umbra, but the rest of them are p goth-y. Oh, and DBSS. Maybe Japanese goth wasn't the right term. Oh well.

I think dark fashion started with OC, people making their own custom clothes.

Carpe Diem was founded in 1996

Helmut Lang was founded in 1986

In general, "dark fashion" dates back to the antifashion wave, which was really initiated in the late 80s / early 90s

I can't believe you spent the time to write all of this lol

I'm making Veeky Forums great again. Like that's gonna happen.

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I think the best term, however flawed, for describing the entire scope of what we're trying to discuss here is avant-garde. I understand that not everything in these threads is necessarily pushing the envelope in the truest sense of the term but I think that it's a useful phrase to describe outsider fashion as contrasted with commonplace clothing and labels.

Dark or goth is limiting; those more like internet buzzwords to describe the drapey Rick, Julius, and Boris fits that were popular six or seven years ago. The term artisanal also applies here but I think it's more specific to smaller labels with a lot of hand finishing like Carpe Diem, Individual Sentiments, or Lost & Found as opposed to labels like Rick.

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One of the most important distinctions for me is that which I'd call a povera movement versus the industrial and futuristic.

Sruli Recht exemplifies the povera end of the spectrum through his use of found objects, natural & wild materials, and the against the grain narrative he weaves around his creations. As with the arte povera movement, this connection to a pre-industrial period is still anchored to the modern world and man's control of it. Examples include Recht's use of laser cutting, futuristic materials like Dyneema, and his AW14 runway show featuring drones. Recht's work has taken a cyclical path starting with his lone wolf in the wild AW11 debut, progressing to the urban fugitive narative of AW14, and finally reconciling technology versus nature in his recent work for ECCO. Veeky Forums thinks the links are spam but you can google his transparent leather and dyneema bonded leather projects for more info.

On the other end of the spectrum is someone like Carol Christian Poell, whose most famous designs are heavily influenced by industry and technology (drip sole work boots, titanium inserts, parachute fabric, sharp tailoring). Most of Poell's textiles make use of custom blends created by his team and his imposing leathers invoke protective armor in contrast to Recht's, which emphasize the natural animal hide aspects of the material.

Rick Owens tends toward the future end of the spectrum as well with his heavy use of panelling, geometric patterns, and structured cuts. Owens, however, manages touch both ends of the spectrum as seen in his rough blistered leathers, ethereal mohair knits, and the primitive caveman references of his AW16 collection, Mastodon.

Man, it's hard to put this shit into words. Critique and discuss. Let's keep this going.

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>Man, it's hard to put this shit into words.
idk man. It reads well enough. I'm not sure of the terminology but what you are saying makes sense. It's hard to classify a category that spans rick owens and horasaki both.
Where does Craig Green fit in this taxonomy. He's definitely avant garde and he clearly has his fair share of talent but his collections feel brash and lack the discipline of the more seasoned masters like rick or yohji and the artisanal bonafides of poell or cechetto.

bro how is lad musician "goth" lmfao

dont you ever disrespect king poell like that ever again

WTF I DIDNT EVEN REALIZE IT WAS A GIF I THOUGHT I WAS SEEING THINGS WHEN I SAW IT MOVING AND TILTING ITS HEAD WTFFFF I GOT SO SCARED HOOO SHIT

and actually unironically to add to that the one brown fellow all the way to the right makes this slightly worse, if this picture were without his presence it would already be improved 10 fold

Poell not /pol/ please

w2c?

Lolol

when u tryna be the ugliest shoe and win

guidi 698 I think

Think Julius is going to bounce back? Does anyone actually like this shit? I never thought I'd be disappointed with Tatsuro's stuff.

Is this a JoJo's reference?

I hope so, but this whole show was a let down

what's JoJos?
It's from an 2008 vman editorial featuring a lot of Dior stuff

lmfao he took it seriously

LMFAO JULIUS IN 2017 HES FUCKING DEAD LOOOL ACTUAL FUCKING LOOOOOOL NEW JULIUS IS THE WORST SHIT IVE EVER COME ACROSS LIKE WHO THE FUCK EVEN BUYS THIS SHIT, JUST BUY OLD JULIUS FUCK THE NEW JULIUS THIS MAKES ME SO FUCKING MAD WTF HAPPENED

wtf i hate julius now