Q T D D T O T

Thanks, that clears up a lot.

Now with the megasquirt you mentioned you'd need a fair bit of knowledge to actually get a good tune out of it considering you're doing it yourself wouldn't you? Are there any presets available for this kind of thing, or would you need to go get a dyno tune anyway?

Also, are ECU replacers universal, or model specific?

>this
I've been trying to find answers to this for months.

I'm sure they come with a preset tune or you could probably transfer your stock tune to them. I'm not that knowledgeable on them. Dyno tune is always gonna be your best bet over a can tune.

There are presets for common engines, or you can just ask someone who's megasquirted the same car as yours to help you out.

Replacement ECUs are "universal", but that just means they come without any of the specific parts (sensors etc) and you'll need to adapt/configure them for your car (e.g. tell the ECU what kind of outputs to expect from which sensor, like how many teeth the trigger wheel has or how it's positioned relative to TDC) and maybe also make a wiring harness. Again, for popular cars there are ready-made harnesses available if I remember correctly.

Is investing on cars or real estate a good idea?

As far as stocks? That's usually a gamble. As far as flipping houses or cars, it can be lucrative but you gotta stay on top of it and avoid bad buys. If you got what it takes go for it.

how dumb of an idea would it be to DD an oldish mustang?
i was thinking 2002 - 2006

Considering buying a cheap car from 86 as a DD but the dipshit has an antique plate on it (it's not even that nice).

If I were to buy it, can I just get a normal plate for it and tell them you can keep the antique one? Or does that shit end up in the title too?

Any ideas?

idk how antique plates work in your state, but if they're anything like vanity or historical plates in CA the p/o can either keep them or transfer them to you, and you can either say they were kept by the p/o or relinquish them. Either way you'll get new plates.

meh. Could be worse.
>killer mustang jokes everywhere

buy some b8 bilsteins

go to the dmv or secretary of states office and ask if you can get normal plates, should not be on the title.

where do you guys get your parts from?

I have an 2006. With no mods and modest driving your looking at 25-28 mpg or so highway, depends on the conditions. And about half that for city. If you do a lot of commuting then I'd say no. And of course with mods your mpg will likely go down.

Rockauto.com is good for oem parts and a few aftermarket parts. And oreillys if I need them quicker.

Also forgot to mention that's for a gt.

i thought so
i just want something not gutless that doesnt cost a fortune and doesnt look like absolute shit
got any suggestion?
maybe a newish accord?theyre much cheaper to maintain here than mustangs

Can't go wrong with Hondas as long as they were decently maintained. Or Toyota. I don't really know much about economy cars.

i couldve went with camry if i could find one that isnt a hybrid
i guess im going with an accord

I don't blame you not wanting a hybrid. I'm not getting an electric car til I'm forced to by laws. I will keep my mustang though as a symbol of better times. Accords are good cars. I had a 2000 accord and it was pretty basic but reliable and a gas sipper.

That cart is actually cool

State is Pennsylvania.

why does the mazda mx3 have the renault logo on it?

For my 2000 Silverado autozobe or Napa, for 64 falcon i have to find a new supplier because old place was bought out and closed

'The eternal flame' was the badge they used on older cars. They smoothed it out because people said it looked like the Renault logo.

They only got that M in 97.

Here's the answer to all the questions.
>Miata

Please keep the memes in shit threads please.

Realtorfag here

Real estate will appreciate 9 times out of 10, but the concept of flipping houses is a bit over hyped... Hiring a good placing company, swapping flooring, installing new cabinetry and fresh coats of paint will provide similar returns to major cosmetic upgrades. As long as there is structural integrity, most buyers will focus on the furnishings and subliminal touches versus some 40k stonework facade. Whilst you absolutely can profit from major upgrades, in fact flip jobs are usually much simpler than TV makes them out to be, if you go too far, or invest energy and time on a structurally defective house, often you're out money after materials and labor costs. Just spruce it up a bit for the open house and you'll profit tremendously.

Cars on the other hand have more factors to consider in terms of upgrades. Whereas home buyers will have limited ability to qualify the structural state of a given home, car buyers who would purchase a modified/restored car are able to tell very quickly the state a car is in. As well they will be far more savvy and demanding in terms of value in use. You really, really have to improve a car to be able to put it more than 10% above black book value. The amount of time it takes to turn a $5000 car into a $20,000 car is simply not worth it. Even with the best mods, with each passing year it will devalue unless it somehow develops a cult status like a miata or AE86.

Basically, houses appreciate, cars depreciate, 10k put into a house can fetch you 50k on the price tag, 10k put into a car will put the price up 10k.

Looking at buying a mint '92 chevy tracker for a DD.

What's the 2nd gearshift for?

fwd, rwd, awd

>not wanting instant torque
>not wanting to roast tires
>better times

OK so it looks like this, so which is which?

I want to know because I've never owned a 4x4 before and I don't want to look like a complete retard when test driving it. Should I just keep it in RWD for the test drive? Or just not fuck with it at all?

popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a10288/when-do-i-engage-4wd-16634152/

thanks buddy. I'll keep it in rwd so i dont look retarded.

I'm most definitely buying the fucker even if I have no conceivable use for a 4x4 nor do I desire a car that old?

Why? Because I'm a special snowflake hipster and shit looks awesome. Plus, custom wheel cover for the rear, Trump 2016 wheel cover what what?

it's identical to pic related right down to the rad decals

honestly it 2wd or 4wd and check them all just to be sure the transfercase is not fucked. save some money that way. it needs to crawl a bit foward before engaing.

kek, looks like one of those generic disposable cups.

>not wanting more range and quicker fill ups
>not wanting rumble of a v8
>not wanting to be able to fix your own car

why would you not be able to work on your own car?

I don't have a funnel and I'm trying to change the oil, first time doing it. I was thinking of cutting off the top of a water bottle but seems like it's still too big or should I just buy a funnel

rip pages out of a magazine and roll them into a funnel.

or just hold the bottle yourself, that's what I do.

Can anyone identify this chain that exposed itself? My 88 civic has all the sudden been fucked up since Saturday. It's leaking oil like crazy and keeps dying on idle, and then I notice this shit. It's a D15B1. Does anyone know how fucked I am?

Thanks for all the help.

Just one more, is there anything I should really watch out for with a 1992 Chevy tracker (geo tracker in the US)? Obviously given its age parts will be a bitch to source but like, craftsmanship wise? Anything to check on the test drive? What can a car noob do to keep it running for a few years more? Is it a stupid choice for a DD?

location on the engine? and stop driving it!
>i fell for the bait

water bottle would work fine, don't pour it all at once like an autist.

Do you know how to diagnose a bad electric motor or battery? How about specialized software to interact and troubleshoot issues? Take a bad guess and run out of juice and stuck on the side of the road, better call a cab because you can't just go get more gas. Granted that last one could be an issue early on. When battery tech gets good enough we might see portable jump batteries that will boost your cars battery enough to get you to a plug in.

If I was to dd an old muscle car with a 350/th350 combo, what should I expect for mpg? (Think early 70s Camaro or something of that size). What would be the best rear end gearing for mpgs? I don't care about speed, as long as I can do 70 on the highway all day, I'm happy.

It's on the side just above the crankshaft pulley. Turns out that's the exposed timing belt wrapping around the tensioner pulley. I just don't know how it could have happened, what risks it puts the rest of the engine in, and what I'd have to do to fix it. I've never encountered this shit before.

>do you know how to use a multi meter or a powerprobe
yes
>troubleshoot and special software
no monopoloes are allowed so that mom and pop shops have a chance,
Obd2 exists on them.

well since you know what it is, buy a new cover, chain, oil pan gasket? and serpatine belt. R&R it.

Veeky Forums, I very badly need help.

I was trying to install a new stereo in my car, took out the factory radio, cut off the plug that went to it, bared the ends of the wires, and tried to connect them to the right ones in my new stereo using a voltmeter and diagram. A couple of them shorted together by mistake, and I saw some sparks. Now, my wipers, power windows, and power locks don't work, and the speedometer sometimes moves for no reason. I looked at all the fuses, none looked blown. I'm afraid I might have blown a computer in charge of those things (Body control module?). What do I do?

It's raining where I am, and it's dangerous to drive the car this way. If I don't have the wipers working by Wednesday, I'm straight fucked. Need to take a several hundred mile road trip for my job. Don't have the money for a mechanic.

Would it be an option to wire the wipers to an analog switch?

>2000 Ford Taurus wagon (don't laugh, it's a hand-me-down)
>~207K miles on it
>I have some basic training working on cars, took a vocational class in high school, not an entire novice
>Pretty much no money at all

>88 civic
>leaking oil like crazy

Just stop right there. You could probably fix it, but you'd pay more in parts and spend more time than the vehicle's worth.

Water bottle should work. Just don't be a tard, make sure it's completely dry before you use it. Water in oil is very bad.

You should really just buy a funnel, though. They're very cheap.

change fuses
rewire radio

But like I said, I checked all the fuses. None of them were burnt or broken.

I hope to fucking hell it's just fuses and I'm missing something stupid, but I really don't think that's the case. Can fuses be blown without being visibly broken? Should I test them with a multimeter?

check the wiring again and make sure it's proper and correctly spliced, fuses can burn out without being visible. Do use your dmm. check that your not pinching the speedometer cable by anychance with your new stero.

Ok, thanks. I'll try each fuse with my multimeter.

I'm having trouble finding good information about the wiring. Know where I can get it? I don't know which the fuck cable is the speedometer anyway.

I'm trying to torrent the service manual, but the only download is like 4GB of Ford service manuals all together, with very few seeders. Can't even find a PDF anywhere on the internet. Does Ford actively have those links removed, or is it just that no one bothers to upload?

Will an air cooled Porsche engine overheat while idling? I just never understood air cooled engines in a sports car.

www.filemount.com/2010/08/2000-ford-taurus-system-wiring-diagrams/
i would try mitchell on demand 5 or alldata for diagrams. i think alldata charges 30 bucks for access to one car only, instant access though. you can always try and d/l it off of a torrent or buy it off of dhgate the website. ford has its own website for technicans who are currently registered to look through all their tsb/trouble shooting trees for every ford problem imaginable.

I need the best resource on engine rebuilding. Preferably performance orientated.
Paid or free doesn't matter.

Pogs

Alright folks, here's the big question of the night.
My father lent me and my mother a vehicle to use while she's in town. He's a bipolar wreck and doesn't do jack shit to make things better and has been cheating on my mother for the last 7 years. Divorce is pending. The engine sounded a little rough, so i checked the oil... Its literally so dry, that The last remnants of what was in the crank case are burned to the dipstick. My question is, do I tell him about how that he needs an oil change? Could the damn thing catch fire? Could he die?

I think he-man should have a whole section of pornhub dedicated to him.

And why not?

renault clio sport 2004, any good?

I've been offered this suspension from a guy who took it off his old car. It's at a pretty good price (About half of what I'd pay brand new), and was all set to buy it until he mentioned that the threading got stripped when he removed it.
He included this picture and said that "It might have cross thread on the way out. If you use a thread chaser it shouldn't be a problem."

Is this guy full of shit and should I back out, or is this something I'd be able to fix without ruining everything rather easily? When it comes to car mechanics I'm basically retarded so try to explain like I'm five. Cheers

i just did an atf and gasket change. something is fucking leaking. the gasket is set right and did three fucking rounds of tightening the pan. its leaving like one fairly large drop an a half hour. is this something i need to worry about or no? ive done this like 3 times before on my car with no issues.

one drop a half hour i meant

Is it worth it side gapping the spark plugs on my 2008 hyundai elantra? Would it really increase power much and get better MPG?

also would fouling become a problem at all because of it/do i need to increase timing?

Thanks, that should be what I need.

If it is a control module of some sort that I fried, would I hurt the wiper motors by just running them to straight 12V and a toggle switch in the cabin?

If you're basically retarded, you'll never fix the threads, that's something you need some experience and a specialized tool to do.

If you do buy it, talk the price down a lot. Even half price is too much for that. Walk away if he won't go down on it.

never mind problem fucking solved

what was it?

I am swapping in a 1JZ, got me a fidanza lightweight aluminum flywheel. I will need a custom made drive shaft.
Should I pay extra and get an aluminium drive shaft, or stick with steel?
I have not gotten an estimate, but I believe a regular one is around $350, and an aluminium one is $480ish

yes and no. long term yes for a short term should be fine. tarus and sable have the same wiring and componets i think. check if you have power to the switch and motor might be a fuse or a relay.

Just put a layer of Dinitrol ML on a rust spot underneath the plastic battery tray. Should I spray a layer of paint over it or just leave it as is?

anyone know a decent double DIN stereo that takes ISO connectors? i am getting desperate with finding something that fits without me having to do wiring

I found a 2004 honda civic with 122K miles for $4400. It has a clean accident record though was pulled for safety recall a couple years ago. I live 3 miles from work and currently walk, but will use it on rainy days and when it gets cold. Is it worth inspecting/test driving? I really don't intend to use it extensively other than getting to and from work, getting groceries and visiting friends every once in a while. I'm a poorfag btw

1995 firebird
Has v6
Sometimes starts and runs fine, drives with no issues
Sometimes starts fine but idles between 750 and 1500rpms and will not rev higher. Any ideas?

Is it something that I can pay someone to fix and not have to worry about it? Or would there be a threat of failure even if it were fixed

Any suggestions on a nice car for $20,000
Preferably less than 75k miles
Looking for a DD, comfortable to drive and has some decent options in it.
Would be nice if it had some pep in its step for an occasional fun time out

Stupid question here
My sister drives a 2010 ES350 which has a standard cd stereo with no navigation/screen
I was thinking of getting her one for her birthday to put in her car.
The thing I'm wondering is, is it better to buy a stock one that comes in other ES350's as an option, or to buy an aftermarket one?
Also, if I should buy an aftermarket one, any suggestions on a good one to buy?

So I own a 1.3l i4 Geo Metro, I was redoing the valve cover gasket and noticed these strange marks on the camshaft.

Are these normal? They go all down the length of the cam.

Balancing marks

Like I said, I hope to holy goddamn fuck it's a fuse. If not, yeah, I'll just wire it straight until I some money and buy a new bcm. The issue is I have to have it working by tomorrow or my job might be at risk.

A friend of a friend is selling an 89 manual nissan 240sx with a little over 200k miles. Clean title.

He wants 3800 for it. I know nothing about nissans and always assumed the 240sx to be a vapebro car.

Is it worth looking at for this price and mileage? It looks pretty clean for an almost 30 year old car.

it is left stock it could be. badly modified is a different story entirely

What state was it used in? State means everything. If it was from the south and isn't that rusty, maybe. If it's from the north where they use road salt, fuck no.

Probably not for cheap enough that it would be worth buying that.

Honestly, just tell that guy to eat a dick, and get one from a local salvage yard instead.

The only situation I'd consider trying to buy it is if you have an unusual car that most people don't have salvage parts for.

I'm in southern california and it is apparently stock as can be.

I'm thinking about it mostly because I figure this car is clean enough to have a next to painless resale just because of how popular it is. I would inspect it thoroughly of course.

Ok I have an issue with my truck Veeky Forums
I need to get this fixed before I sell it.

After a good 10 minutes of driving about 60 - 70 mph down the highway my service engine light comes on and stays on until you stop driving down the highway for a little while. Or if you drive longer down the highway. I cant get any info on this issue on google and I keep procrastinating on getting the code scanned. What could be the issue? its a 2.2 liter vortec inline 4.

You need to get the code scanned. That's the only way to tell why the idiot lights are on, dipshit.

However, if there's nothing noticeable wrong with the running of the engine (weird smoke, misfires, etc.), it's most likely just an emissions fault. Emissions fault codes can be thrown for the stupidest shit, and in the couple years of auto tech training I've had I'd say more than half of fault codes I saw ended up being just some stupid emissions thing.

The thing is, most of those emissions faults are just there because the EPA requires them to be there, and don't have much to do with the running of the car. I'd say the single most common fault code I've ever seen is an emissions fault based on the gas cap sensor. A gas cap that's not on all the way, or a broken gas cap, will sometimes throw a fault code.