Synthetic VS Regular

Synthetic VS Regular

I have a 2009 Ford Edge with 230,000km.
Recently, I did my first ever switch to using synthetic with an oil change. Am I crazy if I think the engine runs quieter and smoother? Does it make this much of a difference? I really think the thing runs and feels smoother, but I feel like I am just convincing myself this.

How important is synthetic, and should I permanently switch to a high-milage synthetic/do you guys recommend any good oil? If it keeps her running, I do not mind paying more if it actually makes a difference.

Thanks,

Other urls found in this thread:

540ratblog
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kantai_Collection
youtube.com/watch?v=4L7U2c6pd2o
bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1960362#Post1960362
twitter.com/NSFWRedditGif

synthetic is better with Redline, Amsoil, and Royal Purple at the top of the list

I noticed less valvetrain noise at the least

Rotella T6 makes the VVT silent on my XJ8

Anything else and it's all rattles

Go here to read about oil comparisons based upon measured data plus laboratory chemical tests. The person doing the tests has an extensive technical background and is also involved with professional auto racing.

540ratblog IQTEST wordpress IQTEST com/

The site lists lots of synthetic and non-synthetic oils along with results from testing the oil until failure.

As complete as that database is, it doesn't list this oil though.

Nice info, thanks

Nicest thread in Veeky Forums history.

I try to run synthetic in my Nighthawk 750.
During poor times I have switched to conventional. HUGE difference.
Conventional seems to burn quicker and the valves are a lot noisier than synth.

Items in the Motor Oil Database site at

540ratblog IQTEST wordpress IQTEST com/

include the following sections and articles:

Section 1 – Motor Oil “Wear Protection” Ranking List

Section 2 – Motor Oil Viscosity Selection

Section 3 – Motor Oil Thermal Breakdown Test Data

Section 4 – Motor Oil component quantity Lab Test results – includes the amount of zinc, phosphorus, detergent, acid neutralizer and more

Section 5 – Reserved for future Motor Oil Test Data

Section 6 – Detailed Motor Oil and Mechanical Tech Articles
1. I-Beam vs H-Beam – which Connecting Rod is Best?
2. Rod Bolt Strength – what do we Really need?
3. Solid Roller Lifters – Bushings vs Needles, which is Best?
4. Camshaft Overlap vs LSA (Lobe Separation Angle)
5. Leak Down Test vs Compression Test, which is Best?
6. Can you really suck the Oil Pan dry?
7. Dynamic Compression Ratio (DCR) vs Static Compression Ratio (SCR)
8. 0W40 vs 5W30 vs 0W30
9. Aftermarket Zinc Additives – Do they Work?
10. Break-In Oils – Do we Really need them?
11. Can you always count on high zinc motor oil?
12. Diesel Oil – Is it the right choice for High Performance gasoline engines?
13. Do comparable zinc levels provide comparable wear protection?
14. Does Prolong Engine Treatment work?
15. Test Data on the newest Pennzoils made from Natural Gas
16. High Temp Motor Oil Wear Testing
17. Do HTHS (High-Temperature/High-Shear) values relate to wear protection capability?
18. Engineering Test Data on High Mileage Motor Oils
19. Engine Dyno HP vs Chassis Dyno HP
20. Std Volume oil pumps vs High Volume oil pumps
21. Points Ignition vs Electronic Ignition
22. How to choose your own Camshaft
23. Multi-viscosity motor oils are not exactly what some people think
24. Air conditioning isn’t just for cooling your vehicle
25. Recommended Oil Change Interval – For Automobiles “AND” Motorcycles
26. Failure Data from a Bushing type Solid Roller Lifter
27. Maximum Safe Redline

There's some interesting info in the Question & Answer section too.

540ratblog {d0t} wordpress {d0t} com/about/

What kind of special retard still uses mineral oil on a 2009 car?

>What kind of special retard still uses mineral oil on a 2009 car?
Me? Synthetic oil costs a LOT more at JiffyLube. And no, I don't change my own oil. One of my neighbors down the street does, and when done, he pours the oil down the sink drain in his detached garage.

Maybe I will shop around for a place that doesn't try to pricegouge on synthetic oil like JiffyLube does. I'm tired of their upselling tactics on wipers, filters, consumables every time I go in there. Some Wal-Mart stores have an automotive tire/battery/oil change service center, so I will try that next. **Followup: checked and it seems wal-mart service center has my areas lowest synthetic oil change price. I'll go there next time I need an oil change.

Since I'm switching from mineral to synthetic, I might try a wasteful approach to "flush" the dirty oil and sludge out. Before I get the synthetic oil change, I'll go to one of the super cheapest oil change places and get an oil change with some fresh generic oil and filter. After driving 30 miles or so, the fresh detergent hopefully has picked up some of whatever stuff is inside. I'll then go to wal-mart and switch to pennzoil platinum synthetic. I wonder if the service people will ask me "hey your oil looks pretty new, why change it now?" and I'll tell them that I wanted to switch from dinosaur oil to full synthetic.

This is my fetish.

Other anime shows have branded motor oils too. Even old shows such as Lucky Star has
something called Lucky Star Eco Oil. It comes in plastic motor oil type bottles only they are clear plastic so that you can see the coloured oil itself. There are reddish and dark greenish oils available. I wonder if the colouring agent contributes to gumming up the engine. They aren't your typical low grade Mobil One though since they also have peach or mint scent. Please write in to exxonmobil and have them reformulate their oil to be like that of lucky star!

Brand: Lucky Star Eco Oil
Color: Red or Dark Green
Odor: Peach or Mint
Size: one liter bottle
MSRP: 2625 yen per liter
Specification: SAE 0W-30 GF-4
Type: ECO Extra Fuel Economy

A typical european motor oil is SAE 5W-40 and there is a KanColle oil for it. Pictured is one of the motor oils for Kantai Collection (aka KanColle). I can't read japanese, so I don't know of these are mineral or synthetic oils. KanColle has various online game variants and an anime series (with another anime series and movie coming out):

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kantai_Collection

Someone made some youtube gameplay recordings of example excerpts of the KanColle online game when you extend the KanColle game with the Battlestations: Pacific mod. That makes the KanColle game quite a bit more immersive.

KanColle with Battlestations Pacific mod:
youtube.com/watch?v=4L7U2c6pd2o

why is this the nicest thread? Just curious.

I don't see why you wouldn't use fully synthetic; it's what's recommended by manufacturers.

Just warm the engine up before you drain it, and it'll be fine.

Anyone got recommendations for oil pans that actually pour properly?
Mine seems to spill everywhere but the spout, which is fairly shit for pouring oil back into an empty bottle for storage.

>Just warm the engine up before you drain it, and it'll be fine.
The 1st purpose was to get rid of as much of the old dirty oil as possible since there is still a lot of old oil remaining inside the engine that doesn't drain out in the time period the lube shop gives for draining. The 2nd reason is that the synthetic oil being used is the pennzoil platinum which is supposed to have more detergent in it as it claims to clean the insides. I just wanted as little dirty oil to remain so that the detergent in the pennzoil platinum would go to cleaning the insides instead of being partially used up by the old oil.

There is a forum site where someone used the Pennzoil ULTRA Platinum which has even more detergent and he put a borescope to look around inside the engine at various intervals. It showed the grimy coating on the metal walls slowly disappearing until many parts were shiny clean while some places remained stubborn (but were still in the process of being cleaned). Clearly, if the ultra plat was used for several more change durations, that engine would be pretty sparkling inside. Seeing the photos over the elapsed time period was pretty convincing. I forgot the URL, perhaps I will find it again someday or someone else will beat me to it.

I can't find that ultra in big jugs; only those small expensive quart bottles. As the engine uses up oil, I will probably buy one quart of ultra and use that to top off engine. Eventually, there will be some cleaning action although slower than in that forum's pictures.

Found the motor oil forum article where someone took pictures of the insides (not borescope) over time to test pennzoil platinum ultra's claims of cleaning the engine. Looking at the elapsed time pictures, it does seem to work.

bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1960362#Post1960362

These are all lab tested though, who always starts there car at 72 degrees?

Synthetic is better, flat out.

There's hints that even regular conventional oils are becoming synthetic as well because it's becoming cheaper to make like Pennzoil yellow bottle.

>There's hints that even regular conventional oils are becoming synthetic as well because it's becoming cheaper to make like Pennzoil yellow bottle.

Economy of scale and the problem of producing and stocking so many different oils may eventually cause that, but they will still try some intellectual property tricks to force price differentiation in order to preserve profit.

We saw that with Sony television sets in the 1990's where many different sony TV sets actually had all the features of the bigger expensive units because it was cheaper for sony to make one type of chip logic rather than unique logic systems for each different model. The features would then be enabled via software signals sent in the IR port. After users discovered how to add features for free, Sony changed things around. Regardless, the users paid for all the hardware but only had some of the features turned on. Sort of like Tesla which provides 75KW battery packs in the cars but software only gives you 70KW unless you pay the extra license fee to allow you to use the full 75KW.

Changing your own is so easy. Just get an oil container and bag it up when your done, drive it to a jiffy lube and they will dispose of it for you for free.

>be me
>feel too lazy to change oil
>take in shitbox for oil change at new place with coupon
>wanna try synthetic sir? it'll make your car run better
>why the hell not
>immediately after I drive out I smell smoke
>a lot of smoke
>maybe they just spilled some, hope it will go away in the morning
>it doesn't
>take it back in
>yeah, we probably spilled a little ese, don't worry
>screamsinternally.wav
>muster up the effort to look under the hood
>oil is dripping directly onto the exhaust manifold
>immediately drive to bro mechanic
>massive oil leaks all over
>800 dollars to fix
>800
>fucking
>dollars
>mfw
>he tells me that there is so much oil leaking he doesn't feel safe with me driving out of the shop
I don't know if those Vatozone fuckers put acid into the oil, or all synthetic is like that, or if the synth oil opened up a bunch of shit in the engine, but I'm back on mineral oil.

Vatozone doesn't do oil changes lol fucking retard

Wherever the fuck. Some local shit

Fuck you faggot I work at autzone don't ruin my stores good name because you're too retarded to:
A.) Change your own oil
B.) Remember something as simple as the shop that changed your oil

Enjoy spending 800$ because you're a pussy who'should afraid to get dirty and with short term memory loss to boot. When youre ready to do the job right the first time with the best merchandise for the right price then get in the fucking zone, until then sit your ass on the short bus where you belong, esé.

>Fuck you faggot I work at autzone don't ruin my stores good name because you're too retarded to:
>store's good name
I didn't know illegals could buy computers with minimum wage
>esé
AHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

I bought it with the 800 dollars you gave me to fix your car

smaller molecules m8, it'll leak on older engines, unless you use a heavier weight

>I bought it with the 800 dollars you gave me to fix your car
>thinking I would give money to anyone but bro German mechanic
Stop, you've already pulled me out of my bad mood.

>smaller molecules m8, it'll leak on older engines, unless you use a heavier weight
Thanks for the assist m800.

German mechanic. My name's Pascual Hernandez how in the fuck did u think I was German?

BUILD
THE
WALL

>German mechanic. My name's Pascual Hernandez how in the fuck did u think I was German?
Where did you read that I went back to Juan's Autosmack to get it repaired? I took it to my mechanic friend
>Pascual Hernandez
PFFFFFFFFFHAHAHAHAHAHAA

It's shocking to see that that both the Pennzoil Pure Platinum 5W-20 dexos-approved synthetic and Mobil One 5W-20 dexos approved synthetic are both fairly low relative to so many other synthetic oils. I had assumed the Mobil One would be much higher

Maybe they overfilled the oil? At least it wasn't hydrolock.

>At least it wasn't hydrolock
How could it be worse than 800 American dollars?

>Pascual Hernandez got deported before he could reply

Still here gringo, btw I need to bleed your head light fluid and refill it. That's gonna be like 300 dollars señor

>Still here gringo, btw I need to bleed your head light fluid and refill it. That's gonna be like 300 dollars señor
Sorry, I only carry pesos.

after an oil change the engine always runs better.
so you are correct. also maybe your lube shop has just been using 20-50w because it's cheap at chips. so this is the first time it's ever had the correct viscosity oil in it. faggots at auto shops and mechanics always told me only 10-40 would work in my van "because its a turbo diesel"
>change to 10-30w because that's what the label on the engine says to use.
>massive difference

the biggest difference with synthetic is that it will only break down and burn at much higher temperatures like if you're hitting 6000rpm regularly, mineral will just burn. but also cheaper oil uses friction modifiers which will just break down at higher temperatures like turbo cooling lines or not granny driving.

your biggest difference is actually going to be your journal bearings being properly lubricated.

>price gouge
no that's what it costs user. if you're happy just using rape seed oil to lubricate your engine for 5$ then go ahead. in australia the difference between synthetic and discount mineral is about 50$ or 15$ so yeah, it does cost about three times as much because it's actually engine oil and not a shitty substitute.

they're synthetic user. you can tell by the viscosity range. 5-40 doesnt come in mineral. neither does 10-60

nah bro. lighter oil doesnt leak from seals any more than heavier oil. biggest myth going is to tell people to use a heavier oil if their car is leaking oil. you're thinking of valve stem seals which are designed to leak oil and piston rings which again, allow oil into the combustion chamber. you can fail emissions using the wrong oil because then that oil gets burnt and it's just too much oil getting burnt which causes too much emissions.

it's possible that the only thing keeping the seals sealing was that over time they had developped leaks which had been sealed up by sludge and carbon which is why its not reccomended to switch to a fully synthetic from shitty mineral oil because it will clean the engine.

>it's possible that the only thing keeping the seals sealing was that over time they had developped leaks which had been sealed up by sludge and carbon which is why its not reccomended to switch to a fully synthetic from shitty mineral oil because it will clean the engine.
Fugg

as long as your car was meant for synthetic though, it will probably have higher quality seals though bro so dont worry. its only super old shitboxes where you cant even see bare metal through the oil filler cap for all the carbon that this will be a problem.

>super old shitboxes where you cant even see bare metal through the oil filler cap for all the carbon that this will be a problem.
It's in pretty good shape, but it is from 1996.

also stupid shit like seal stop leak or valve cleaner or tap stopper or super engine flush 9000 or adding ATF.

>no Liqui-Moly
>no Total
There's three quarters of what my shops stock gone right away and only the expensive imports remain.

Autozone is SHIT and you know it. Mouthbreathing retards work all the counters here.

Anyone have experience with the new full synthetic high mileage oils that Castrol and Valvoline have released? I'm thinking about switching to one of them instead of the GTX High Mileage synthetic blend that I've been using.

they're only high milage because they're loaded with zinc.
they dont suddenly gain the ability to not shear, degrade or get fucked up with contaminants. they'll only actually be high mileage if its driven like a dd and the engine is perfect.

>540 rat on zinc

>A high level of zinc/phos is simply no guarantee of providing sufficient wear protection. And to make matters even worse, excessively high levels of zinc/phos can actually “cause” DAMAGE your engine, rather than “prevent” it. Motor Oil Industry testing has found that motor oils with more than 1,400 ppm ZDDP, INCREASED long-term wear. And it was also found that motor oils with more than 2,000 ppm ZDDP started attacking the grain boundaries in the iron, resulting in camshaft spalling (pitting and flaking).

>Anyone have experience with the new full synthetic high mileage oils that Castrol and Valvoline have released?
High Mileage synthetic oils contain an additive that swells the oil seals slightly to reduce or stop oil leakage. Go look at that URL posted earlier about various oils. That site also has a question/answer section so you can post a detailed question. Other people have gotten oils listed and tested in the database because they were willing to send sample bottles of that oil. It's a stretch to tell him to test something and then to also tell the tester to go buy the oil too, chop, chop, hurry up my servant.

Some major branded full synthetic oils seem to be resting on their laurels. So if your oil isn't listed, offer to send bottles of it in order to have all those various tests performed.

I read this dudes writing and he seems like a shill. He's praising the balls off of this Prolong Engine Treatment stuff while the company was literally court-ordered to quit their marketing methods since they ended up unable to prove most of the claims made in their marketing in actual testing environments. They stopped selling it at Autozone even.
The numbers are pretty but it seems like clever marketing to me.

Yeah, he writes like a marketeer, but also states that

>I do not endorse nor recommend its use. It is always best to simply choose a highly ranked oil in the first place, and avoid using any aftermarket additives at all.

Paid for by O'Reilly auto for Hillary 2016

900 American dollars?

he also bases what's the best oil by a single parameter and then calls it "wear protection"

>he also bases what's the best oil by a single parameter

No he doesn't. He at multiple different spots says that it is the complete package that provides protection and not any single parameter.

>I read this dudes writing and he seems like a shill.
He's not shilling anything. He recommends against Prolong. The data is only there because he tested some items out to obtain data. He even remarks regretting testing ANY additives because people get confused easily. He more than once recommends not to use additives. His test data shows that in some cases, using additives made performance worse.

Depends on the autozone, in my town there's nothing but a bunch of retards at advance. The dudes(for the most part, there's one retard) in my autozone know their shit. We talk about classic cars when I go in and the manager was the one who informed me I could do a bolt on swap from C4 to AOD.

>tfw autistic Mexican man shows up to defend Vatozone
You can't make this shit up

nice try 540rat

So, I have a 96 civic si. It has 205k on it, I wanna switch to synth, should I first do half and half conventional and synth, or go full synth. Also, should I throw in a cleaner or whatever before I drain my conventional, and how long is it OK to do the synth interval switch

Don't you have a wall to build

Nigga, honestly full synth will do nothing for that car. Keep going conventional or if you want the longer service interval go synth blend.

This.
And I just use Oreilly's synthetic off brand shit. It's still better than any conventional I'm convinced.
>I learned at vo-tech in highschool, synthetic oil has 400x the lubricity of conventional oil and retains it for twice as long
>going without an oil change you may as well be using fucking water and sand to run your car, nasty ass.

This guy doesn't know what he's talking about.
It doesn't matter that it's a bit old, I have an exploder with 270k miles on it and I can tell a huge difference when I use synthetic. It doesn't burn, it starts and runs better and quieter, especially with the 4.0 sohc that's famous for valvetrain noise.
The fact it's a 4l will make full synthetic a good choice.
Don't throw in cleaner, unless you want to go to sieze city, oil goes in the oil thing, it doesn't say "solvent" on the lid does it? If you want it to run better clean the throttle body and spark plugs/wires.

Thanks for the tip bro. That's what I want, longer intervals and a quieter engine, thinking about using the test of my conventional and then filling up the rest with synth. I guess I'll just make sure I drain it well before filling it up again.

>tfw golden smiley man spends countless hours of his limited lifespan calling people out for existing and also liking things, the absolute monsters

>tfw confirmation of and conformation to a stereotype is the same thing

>he actually keeps tabs on every thread he posts in, watching for that (you) that tells him it's time to shitpost again

>he actually keeps tabs on every thread he posts in, watching for that (you) that tells him it's time to shitpost again
A psychological study of online behaviour of trolling type posters showed a statistically high correlation to negative real life emotions and behaviours. But that is something we could guess already without psychologists doing a controlled study.

These people ran out of people in real life, so they have to troll users anonymously. In real life, they can get lose their job, get demoted, get punched, or ostracized, so fear stops them.

This poster reminds me of those people who see a nice freshly waxed car so they go and spit on it.

>Don't throw in cleaner, unless you want to go to sieze city, oil goes in the oil thing, it doesn't say "solvent" on the lid does it?

As for oil with cleaning ability, the synthetic Pennzoil Platinum Ultra has a formulation that cleans even more than their regular synthetic Platinum. Earlier in this thread was the link to sets of pictures showing how the dirty insides of the engine changed over time when Platinum/Ultra was used. HERE: >afraid to get dirty
Well, it's not so much that as it is there is no room under the car to work. I remember old cars had such high clearance that as a kid, I could slide under my grandfather's old car. But many decades later in my current new car, it is seven and a half inches above the ground. So I will have to buy ramps to drive the car up on them. They'd have to be extra tall ramps if I use one of those wheeled boards to lie upon and easily slide myself under the car.

If I had a nice underground room to stand up in and work with lots of space and no claustrophobia from having the engine three inches from my nose when driven up a ramp, then I'd change my oil and do other things all the time. But there is no such convenient thing.

I do have several neighbors that do change their own oil though. They all use those large giant-sized jacks to raise their car up onto jack stands.

>Had a cheap stamped ramp collapse when I was a kid. Drove my brother's 70 cuda onto ramps, was just about to head under and it dropped. We had used these a hundred times.

Reading stories like that makes me feel sick about getting under the tons of unforgiving steel car. Even in the Initial D anime, that anime guy drives his car elsewhere for servicing. He doesn't service at home.