I'm not the same guy that posted this yesterday

I'm not the same guy that posted this yesterday.

I changed my front brake and rotors and now my pedal is too soft. I've bled that shit multiple times now to no avail.

Is there anything else in the brake change I could have f'd up to do this?

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didn't read your first post but fuck you

air in the lines
piston are leaking and need to be rebuilt
booster is fucked
you're dumb
master cylinder needs to be rebuilt
you're dumb
clean the rotors
you're dumb
lines are fucked.

thanks br/o/

Pedal will be softish until brakes properly bedded in.

false. brakes will be shit till brakes are properly bedded in.

Both are true desu. Post toolbox or back off g

If I pressed the pedal all the way to the floor while pumping, what issue would that cause?

I'm getting the feeling you don't know how to bleed brakes desu

I had done that the first time I've bled it again later.

Did you start with the caliper furthest from the master cylinder?

did you get someone to hold the pedal down when you tightened the nipple?

>needing a second person around to bleed your brakes

so you didn't

so you let air back into the system from the nipple when you tightened it on your own?

Bleed the master cylinder if applicable.

you probably let the reservoir run dry. now the master cylinder has air.

Honda has ta hHondhHhth a weird order but I did both from driver dfront fdRomans fromanndfromannbut passenger read.reaerear.

Last time I did I did old school 2 man method

You need a motive power bleeder if you are alone.

you need one piece of 5mm vacuum tube or aquarium air tube, one powerade bottle, put 100ml of brake fluid in the powerade bottle, put end of tube in bottom of bottle, pump gas. see amazing brake fluid come out and no sucking up air.

He has run the master cylinder dry. The only way to fix this is with positive pressure.

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Veeky Forums is so obsessed with doing things better or faster than everyone else on the board that they forget to do the basics right.

Are you cereal? I am autistic and can't into sarcasm. I should bleed it dry and refill and bleed again?

Bleed the brake /properly/ this time. You need another person.

1. Have them pump and hold the pedal with the engine off, if its on, you'll vapor lock the lines.
2. Only now should you crack open the bleeder valve from the rear passenger brake (Its farthest from master cylinder)
3. Close the valve when air stops coming out, and fluid starts coming out
4. Tell the other person to pump and hold again

It should take you about 15 minutes per brake, after that,

5. Refill your brake fluid, then go rear driver > Front passenger > Front driver, checking fluid between each brake.

Don't lift the pedal before the valve is closed, or you'll suck air back into the lines, make sure you use the same brake fluid, unless its dot 3 or 4, which are mixable, but don't mix unless you have to for some reason, since higher numbers only have a higher boiling point, so unless you've had brake boiling in the past, you're fine.

15 min per brake? Is you serious? That might be my prob then.

You have to bleed each brake repeatedly

I was doing 10-15 squirts a brake.

You probably rushed it. Especially since a rotor change doesn't require a brake bleed, and trying to bleed them wrong can introduce air into the system.

That's what I thought but after I changed my front pads and rotors I virtually had no brakes at all. Things I think I possible did wrong: (1) pushed the dirty Shit back into the lines when I reset the caliper (read you should clamp off and bleed that) (2) was originally pushing the brake pedal all the way down when bleeding.

should have taken it to JUST BRAKES™

You didn't happen to put racing brakes on your car? Those don't work if they're cold.

Nah Wagner quiet. Centrik rotors

I'm not OP. You're aware with a piece of hose and a gatorade bottle you can make a bleeder bottle right? You cut a hole in the cap, feed the hose through and pour half an inch or so of brake fluid into the bottle. Stick the hose on, open the nipple, do your bleed then close the nipple and pull the hose off. It will suck the fluid back into the line instead of air. You just do it until the fluid in the hose is clear.

-Speed Bleeders are a huge time saver, they are a brake valve with a check valve that makes brake bleeding truly a one man job. Prevents air from getting sucked back in, do not need to tighten the brake valve while applying brake pressure.

>$0.50 has been deposited into your account by SPEEDBLEEDERS™