QTDDTOT

Just thought about the AOD in the thing too. It uses a cable from the throttle body to modulate shifting and they originally came with a nylon bushing on the throttle arm that disintegrated after time and allowed the Throttle Valve cable to fall out of the throttle arm. That quickly resulted in a burnt up AOD. There was an update that replaced the nylon bushing with a brass one. It's probably been updated since the car has made it this far but you never know.

I checked the connections at the battery and they're both solid, couldn't get to the positive on the motor but seems okay from what I can tell. Is the negative supposed to attach to the alternator bracket like here? I thought ground had to go to body/frame?

>forgot a bit

Could the fact that the negative is attached there be the reason for the clutch quirk? Maybe jumping through/around the motor somehow to the clutch line to make better ground? Forgive me, I'm a noob to wrenching.

Are new Volvo's good on reliability?

Also opinions on the S60 AWD?

Why do people think Pushrods are outdated like Sidevalve?

How reliable is the Merc W203? I'm looking to buy one and while I can afford repairs, I don't want to buy a money sink. Additionally, what are the common issues they have (besides rust)?

Bump on this I'm Also curious

Yes it does appear to be original and that's definitely an original cable but i still don't like it. Too many possible spots for poor connections so I'd prefer it on the block where it should be myself. Those two output terminal repair ends are completely inadequate too. At the very least the terminals should be soldered to the wire imo.

Does anybody know of a quick way to remove cardboard intake gasket material from an alloy head? It's like it's glued on there.

I've tried these sharp plastic non-marring gasket/decal removers and brake cleaner but it's extremely slow-going and it's just not cutting into the remaining material. I have steel scrapers but don't want to fug up my new head.

Im really thinking about going and taking a look at and buying the car in my link, the only thing stopping me is im getting paranoid its too good to be true. Also if i bought this car where would the best places to be to buy parts? kijiji.ca/v-cars-trucks/hamilton/1988-mazda-626-for-sale/1164144543?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

paint remover, aircraft jelly type or spray on

might have some of that, nasty shit

if it eats the metal I will cry

It won't. You can also use a walnut shell blaster if you have access

hearing protection if you do stuff like grinding a lot, i work with a guy that runs nail guns all day and i have to yell for him to hear me and hes only 45. eye protection is nice if youre under the car, i had gas fall straight into my eyes when changing a fuel filter and it burned like a sonofabitch. now i wear motocross goggles. rubber gloves are nice

I have a single cab pickup thats old enough that it has no seatbelts or headrests or any safety features whatsoever.
Id rather not have my head smash into the rear window in case of a wreck.
would it be stupid to install a rear window net?
Anything else I should put in there besides seatbelts?

Why do we not have a Subaru General?

because you didn't make it

Thank you for the post. What brand/type of hearing protection do you recommend?

Not that guy, but I like Sonic Defenders.

Does anyone know the process for getting a title for a vehicle? There's a motorcycle I'm looking at buying too fix and flip but the owner says they don't have the title, or the money to insure to get a duplicate title. How would I go about buying the bike and getting a new title in my name, or is it a stupid idea that'll just bite me in the ass later? The bike is in Minnesota and I live in wisconsin, but I wouldn't have to it in Wisconsin if I'm not going to ride it.

What is the point of coupes that are based on sedans? Why would someone get, for example a 4 series BMW or Audi A5 instead of a 3 series or A4? They're based on the same platform so the weight/size are similar, and it seems you just give up a usable 2nd row and pay extra for no real reason

Dumb question time. I'm stuck without a proper manual (The one I downloaded doesn't have any in depth engine overhaul instructions), and I have to install the thrust bearings, the crescent looking shim things. I'm working on a Honda F22A6, and haven't been able to find info on this: Which direction should the cutouts on the bearings be facing?

Oops, thought I added picture. The way that I'm holding the bearing is currently the direction I have them facing--Opposing each other, with the cut outs facing towards the ends of the engine. I'm just about ready to bolt everything else down, so if ya'll can help, I'd appreciate it.

what do you mates do to wash your car if you live at an apartment? Do you use a coin-op wash and bring your own equipment or go to an automated wash and hand dry?

I use the coin-op because I need the high pressure hose to spray the underside of my and engine bay, and just bring my own stuff. To wash it down completely only costs about $3, maybe another dollar or two if it's really dirty. I live in an area that has no pavement and high winds so there's always dust.

Coin op and bring buckets and microfiber towels. And your own soap if ya want.

Terrible. All kinds of electrical problems. Sensors going bad and stuff like that. Pretty much have to take it to a Mercedes dealer where they will price gouge you.

There's a reason they sell for 10% of the purchase price once the warranty expires.

Too good to be true? It's a 30 year old car that isn't particularly sought after.
Parts shouldn't be too hard to find.
Check it out, see how it drives.

I would not buy a vehicle without a title. Could end up being impossible to title.

Ive got a fair few plastic panels on the inside of my car that are pretty badly sun damaged, we're talking turning white
Is there anything besides paint I can use to fix it?

That's what I'm thinking. I'll talk to the guy about it on Monday and if I can talk him into doing the footwork to get the title himself. Nothing I've seen says you need insurance to get a new title.

How does car financing work on a non-fixed income? If you're a freelancer of any kind and want to buy a car, how does it affect down payments, bank loans and monthly payments?

usually you just say what you do, and how much you made last year as a salary

This. They may want to see your tax returns for proof.

>Sonic Defenders.
Okay, thanks I'll check them out. Outta curiosity though, is there a set of ear protection that does the same job, but are "over the ears", like one of those 70s portable radios you wear on your head? I'd rather have something over my ear, than in it.

Exactly how hard is it to change a clutch?
Need to replace the one in my Miata and the most I've ever done is change my struts

bretty hard

Use a new paper towel, and wash it again. If it still smears, use another clean towel and wash it again. Repeat as many times as it takes. Then, quit smoking in your car, and wash the windshields more often.

How serious is a "minor auto transmission fluid leak"
Seller says he plans to fix it himself

it's not serious, it just needs a seal, but here's why it's shit:

a) it will be expensive if you don't do it yourself
b) it drips on your driveway and looks awful

it should be setting off alarm bells in your head.

It's the only thing other than break pads that needs fixing, and he's given me pretty detailed info on the car, so I'm inclined to trust him. Will get it inspected anyway. I mean if it's the only problem and it doesn't cause any major issues it doesn't seem like a red flag to me.

Well, you have to keep it filled up. It's just a pain in the ass and messy.

Have the mechanic give you a quote for the leak when you get it inspected.
For someone who has the tools and knows what to do it's a simple cheap fix, but the labor cost will be high if it's a input shaft seal.

Also, if it's been leaking how do we know he's kept it topped off.

what kind of welder will you need for auto body fabrication? i don't know anything about welding, but read from googling that recommended would be like 130-150amp mig welder.. so far i think it just depends how thick your welding (for amps of welder?), and that the duty cycle is how long you can weld for before having to let it cool... but i don't know the ways in what they weld etc. since i don't know anything about welding, but they said doing short burst type welding or something like that (but that method can warp the metal easy or something?).
then i read another post just to get a cheap used stick welder (is that an arc welder?)

does anyone have any advice with this?

Is the lada niva any good?

I've got a 2 door escort that's largely body filler and truck bed liner but I've been prepping it to run stock rallycross.

Now that I've got the shit sorted that I'll touch in a 250 dollar car, what autistic shit should I do to rally it out, but still fit stock class and be function oriented. Its a shitbox.

I'm thinkin hood pins, lights, strapping at bumper edges and skid plates...

Anything else I miss? Photo cred to the watermark

I'm t

Got any good drugs?

Are dodge magnums any good?

Just how good is a V6 Dodge Charger? SE, SXT models?

I know the V8s are always better but how are the V6s?

>dodge

depends. They are reliable and have huge off-road potential, but not so comfy on the roads and won't gain much speed.

Go fuck yourself and your mom. Just stop being a disgrace and do something productive in life other than shitposting.

MIG is good, flexible, and cheap. Great place to start, along with oxy/atetylene (which is not cheap)
TIG would be better if you're doing this professionally but is extremely expensive
An arc welder is the cheapest setup to operate and feed but you'll have to keep your electrodes (or sticks) in a electrode oven and it requires a bit of skill

try spraying it with some silicone lubricant, it might rejuvinate the plastic but if they're turning white they're probably brittle and you should replace.

one could also ask
>what's the point of saloons that are based on wagons?
*less weight (-100lbs=+1hp)
*less room to haul people and their bullshit
*maybe people actually like them

>are volvos gudf?
yes
>is s60 gud?
turbocharged whiteblock I5 is always good, pic related
>AWD?
Haldex, bad 70/30 power distribution

Is drifting through turns impractical and slow in the face of modern technology? Is there any value in learning how to make an expensive hunk of metal and plastic slide wildly across the road? Does anyone sleep in Tokyo?

Drifting has always been impractical and slow, the point is not to go fast its to have fun

A guy I know has a 97 Ranger. 4cyl manual trans.

Whenever it gets to operating temperature, the clutch pedal completely locks up, and nothing will get it down. It works fine before operating temperature. I've already checked for the connecting rod popping loose and getting hung up, but it's fine. We've already bled it.

He actually got it up to operating temperature and sprayed the master cylinder with a garden hose to cool it down and the clutch immediately started working again.

New master cylinder?

I got myself a 2014 vw passat se with the 5 cylinder 2.5L engine

Did I meme myself?

>sprayed a hose into his engine bay, actually started working
I think this is anecdotal, its just a plunger with some o-rings and I don't think it's likely that it's heating up and seizing.
sounds like it could be the slave cylinder tho.
>ford has weird slave cylinders inside the tranny that would totally heat up and seize as vehicle reaches operating temp
>best bet is to replace the master cylinder first and hope it fixes it since you should replace both at same time

why you do dis
>it's not a meme to fuck yourself

I have multiple cars and don't want to spend the money to install sound systems in each one. Do any of you have recommendations for some kind of portable speaker system I can throw in the backseat that would be as decent as a speaker/sub/amp setup?

Is RX7 FD fit for daily usage?
Want it stock import, no tuning.

No warming up, just drive and go. ~100 km on weekdays, mostly freeway.

What would maintenance cost me?

What about Skyline or Supra?

'90 volvo 240DL
Busted a heater hose? Runs from the firewall behind the dipstick to the block under the intake manifold. it looks like I gotta take the manifold off to do this job so I gotta replace that gasket too. Anyone recommend anything else to tackle while I'm in there?

Test drove a Madza 3 manual transmission today, thoroughly enjoyed the car and when it came to talking numbers I told the salesmen I would only settle for 18,000$ with 0 APR financing through them and I would put down 2,000$ right now.

Salesman chuckled, I got up and left, he chased after me and I told him when he is willing to make that deal to give me a call.

Sales manager called me immediately afterwards told him I am in no rush to buy, as I am not, and to call me when he wants to make that deal.

Am I being retarded asking that low for a brand new Mazda 3 Hatchback i Touring Manual?
I am thinking I can get it at this price, because everyone is still buying SUVs, nobody wants a hatchback or a manual in the USA.

you're an asshole, but you're probably right in that manuals are moving off the lots very slowly.

new gen mazda3s hold their value very, VERY well, and you're almost asking used car money. be patient, i guess.

Yeah, you're a cunt.

don't know much about cars. help pls
I have a 2005 ranger that makes this noise when I start it up, I don't know how to describe it. It's like the sound of something spinning(duh), somewhat high pitched but not screeching. It quiets down shortly after the engine warms up. It doesn't completely stop, but it gets much quieter. Do I need to worry about this? Or is it just doing that because the engine is cold? Thanks in advance

could be timing chain? post a video of the noise.

Ehhh, hard sell on a 2016. A used 2015 is retailing for almost 19K

Got any advice if they do call back? I doubt they will, I was not rude at all, I did wish the salesman good luck on the rest of his day. I am sure they burned my application in there popcorn machine.
I would really go up to 18,000$ OTD with my 2,000$ down payment included.
Oh well, it was my first time going to a dealership, think I got a better feel for it now. If they don't call back I'll wait for Civic Hatchback to come out and see if they'll make a deal then.

Bought a 2000 Focus ZTS for cheap ($1400) with a rebuilt title, upon further inspection it's been transferred from out of state.
You Veeky Forumstits thinking I done got lemoned?
>Hood paint is poorly done
>bumper has been swapped from another car
>left headlight seal is punctured
>puncture caused by the crunching of the original bumper I assume
>minor ding still left at very front of driver door

Now onto the mechanical problems.
>exhaust leak (need to find where exactly, not a major problem but kind of loud)
>rough idle, rev hang.
>moderate oil leak from front left of engine block. Appears to be a valve cover seal, but didn't get to look closely.
>hood doesn't align quite right in the front, sits ever so slightly further down on the left headlight than it does on the right headlight, I assume it wasn't reseated properly after whatever wreck. Additionally, maybe the hood pinching the headlight seal is what caused it to go bad.
>vibration inside the cabin when idling.
With all of that said, here are my plans of attack

>replacing headlights later this week

>getting a mechanic to look it over tomorrow, see if they catch anything I haven't seen, or diagnose anything I've got suspicions about.

>depending on where exhaust leak is, may just slap a sleeve clamp on it and call it a day. However, depending on how long exhaust leak has gone on for, it may have killed my catalytic converter.

>according to a few car forums, the rev hanging is caused by the factory throttle body being too brittle and it doesn't open/close properly. Another thing mentioned was that the cruise control cable overlaps the throttle cable and in some cases can pinch it, causing same rev hang situation. Plan to detach CC cable, see if that fixes it. Replace throttle body with aftermarket one if not.

>focus is also known to have passenger side engine mount to fail. May cause the vibration.

>last last case scenario when all else fails is to do a complete engine rebuild, will be an even larger PITA.

>resident poorfag, not too much money ($1k) to buy a new car, but enough to probably fix this one up with money left over to spare
>have a decent amount of time on my hands due to only working 35 hrs a week, but not the most money
>have an entire 3 weeks come August to dedicate to fixing whatever isn't urgent

With all of this said, think it's better to scrap it, or fix it?

Scrap it. Even if you look past all the shit you mentioned, it sounds like the car got hit pretty good in the front. You have no idea if it is in/will keep alignment, or the full extent of the structural repairs from when it was rebuilt.

You could spend months tracking down and fixing all the little shit just to find out the thing will never keep alignment and burn up a pair of tires every 10K miles. A car that rough isn't even worth the time of thinking about an engine rebuild or weeks worth of tracking down and fixing a bucket load of mechanical problems

>buying salvage title cars

there's a reason they're that cheap

salvage/rebuilt title cars are SUCH a gamble unless you know exactly what to look for on that particular car. Plus insurance companies fucking rape you on anything that's salvage/rebuilt

Even as an expert-tier shitbox flipper, I still wouldn't get involved with a salvage car unless I didn't have any other option

Does anyone know the source of this photo

I managed it without but small hands.
Also, i had to lay down in the engine bay to reach it with all sorts of bits poking me in the body. Quite a painful repair

First clean the outside of the glass well.

For the inside, start with simple green, and clean it well with paper towel

follow it by any sort of auto glass cleaner and use a fresh paper towel often

then buy those blue lint free glass towels, spritz the glass a bit with cleaner, and clean it to eliminate all streaks.
get a light or park under direct sunlight so you can better see imperfections.

I have a question about this multimeter

>amazon.com/DMiotech-Smart-V-Auto-Ranging-Multimeter-Backlight/dp/B015OFMUYO/ref=cm_wl_huc_item

Does the symbol on the volts switch mean it can automatically detect the type of current? Direct and Alternating? Im asking because the symbol has the alternating current symbol under the direct current symbol.

I'm a fag that can't wrench my own car and it's been to the mechanic's three times now. Tomorrow is #4. Please wish me luck that this'll be the last time

if you're a nigger

dubs command it.

Man the fuck up and fix your own car

>oh wait...

[spoiler]Good luck user....[/spoiler]

yep.

how do you shift smoothly while WOT? is it possible?

Should I trade in my 16 year old Peugeot 206 for a 2016 Kia Picanto Sportsline?
I'll end up paying €1560 a year more tho

So if my car has a rod knock is it already to late to save it or is it could I salvage it by doing a full rebuild?

I want to build an engine that doesn't run a head gasket. would wire ringing the head suffice?

bearings will be shot. inspect the crank and rods, see if what is meant to be round still is. see if the crank journals are scored or otherwise fucked. replace with repair size bearings and get the crank ground to match.
but rod knock might re-occur if you don't find what caused it.

At the very least you will want to replace the rod in question along with the bearing. And since you already have the bottom end torn down anyways, it might be worth it to replace the crank while you're there. It's an extra cost, but fatigue damage in carbon steel is usually tough to detect even with the right equipment.

I want to take a vacation and go somewhere offroad, like, I want to reach a destination and not use a single road. Crossing roads and bridges over big rivers would be ok. I have been to offroad parks and they're fun for awhile, but I don't want to spend a whole week going over the same trails over and over.
I'd like to stay in the midwest, no moab or southern cali trips as they're a bit to far away. I'm thinking like Nashville to Atlanta, or something along those lines. City to city over a few hundred miles.

Is this possible?

No, there's not enough public land that the government won't slap your peepee for driving on

My transmission started shifting really hard after I bled my brakes/clutch and replaced the master cylinder for my clutch.
It'll be almost impossible to shift when it goes over 5k RPM.
What could the problem be? Did I not bleed the clutch good enough? Could it be a motor mount?
Really don't wanna fuck the syncro, but I have to drive it.