Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Threads
>A thread for you to ask or answer questions that are either dumb or sensible.
Previous QTDDTOT reached bump limit -
QTDDTOT
Gavin Allen
Aaron Morales
What's the best way to clean the inside of your windshield? Glass cleaner + microfiber towel just smears..
Cameron Sanders
So my family has a 88 town car that they use as a nice summer/cruise car every year after storing it away for the winter. This year I'm in charge for getting it ready for the summer, and I need to know what should I check for? I was told that during the winter they would go out to the garage, start the car, and let it run for about 15-20 minutes, shift thru all the gears one at a time (while holding their foot on the brake), and revving it to around 2500-3000 rpms every couple of minutes.
I know to check engine oil, transmission fluid, tires, and brakes, but what else?
Thanks Veeky Forums
Camden Harris
I use windex with a couple of paper towels and it works fine for me.
Xavier Cook
What kind of protective gear should I have/use when wrenching on cars? Things like jack stands, ramps, and a jack are obvious, but what else? Eye and ear protection, too?
Landon Powell
My voltage is really eratic. 1-3 gears it's fine, but going into 4th all my electrics flicker, lights etc. Oddly tho pushing my clutch in, or even just ever so lightly pressing it stabilises the voltage mostly. Also voltage jumping/flickering seems worse on bumpy/gravel roads. What could it be? The whole clutch thing affecting my voltage is really fucking with my head. Mechanic tested alternator and it tested fine. Do I need a new battery? Is my battery perhaps crossing lines into the clutch line? I don't get how this works or why the clutch would affect my voltage.
Bentley Ward
>Glass cleaner + microfiber towel just smears
Get better glass cleaner.
Get the worst off with a burner cloth first so you aren't just smearing muck around.
William Clark
Forgot to mention it's a turdgen
Henry Green
There's so much...
Pay particular attention to the cooling system since a failure there can be a show stopper. Check hoses for dry rot cracking and they should feel like a new one. If noticeably softer than that it's no good and will blow under pressure. This also includes heater hoses which are typically neglected especially those near the firewall. Also note any apparent past leakage trails from hoses, end corners of the lower intake, and bottom of the water pump. Use a strong flashlight for the inspection and get under the thing too.
Check battery cables and terminals for corrosion. That's a no-start waiting to happen. And Fords of that era used an alternator that had a double-wire plug for the high amperage output. These frequently suffered from a poor connection that would cause heat and melt the connector. Just look at that one (don't unplug it only to look) and see that it isn't heat distorted. If it is distorted fix it soon because those did cause engine fires.
Tyler Nelson
That's going to be a bad connection somewhere and since it seems to be dependent on the engine moving around I'll bet it's a ground. Either from the engine to the battery or the body to battery. Large majority of the time the problem is right there at the battery.