Anyone regularly clean/detail their cars?

Anyone regularly clean/detail their cars?

What's your favourite products?

Just a few of mine:

>optimum no rinse (car wash)
>finish kare 425 (spray detailer)
>druagloss aquawax (spay wax)
>einszett 1z blitz (multi purpose cleaner)
>303 aerospace protectant (spf 40 for rubber, vinyl, plastic)
>autoglym super resin polish (paint polish)

I also have about a dozen pots of various waxes, I don't really have a favourite.

Other urls found in this thread:

chemicalguys.com/DeCon_Pro_Iron_Remover_16_oz_p/spi21516.htm
autogeek.net/nanoskin-autoscrub-towel.html
amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_493-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE
amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_702_01-Waffle-Microfiber/dp/B0041I1IX0
twitter.com/SFWRedditVideos

did mine yesterday
not in any particular order
>autoglym wash and wax
>sonax vinyl protect
>sonax 4/6 (polish)
>sonax tire gel
>sonax wheel cleaner
forgetting a ton of stuff but as you can see I'm a total sonax shill
also use a rupes 21 mark II polisher

Yeah

> Rinse
> Snowfoam 2oz soap, let dwell for ~2-3 min.

If its a simple wash I will use Optimum wash, otherwise Megs Gold Class or CG Maxi Suds II as they will strip old wax fast. Used a glimour foam gun before and recently upgraded to a foam cannon I use with a pressure washer, $20 DUSICHIN off of amazon is the same thing CG sells for $80.

> Rinse with water passed through a 100 micron filter (Reduces watermarks greatly and a $16 filter will last many many washes
> Wipe down with 50:50 mix of distilled and isopropyl
> Clay use soapy water as lube
> Wipe down with 50:50 mix of distilled and isopropyl
> Correct flaws
> Apply wax of choice.

Been using P21s but Switching back to Autoglym HD with a spray wax top coat. Megs ultimate spray wax is packed full of fillers and will maintain the lower layers. For a maintenance wash I will skip the isopropyl wipe down and clay and just re-apply the spray wax after drying.

> Dress trim, Autoglym Vynil/Rubber or Mothers Back to Black depending on the surface/condition
> Glass, Stoners invisible
> Wheels get dressed with Optimum tire gel, nice matte look that wont sling.

I tend to stick with Adams, and Optimum products, there is a lot or overpriced repackaged stuff out there that is sold by different brands with dye/scent packages.

I use a lot of different no name Korean MF towels and applicators.

I currently use:

>Chemical Guys Citrus Wash & Gloss car soap
>Chemical Guys Nonsense general cleaner
>Mothers clay bar kit
>Chemical Guys Pete's '53 car wax
>Chemical Guys Signature Series Wheel Cleaner
>Chemical Guys Silk & Shine rubber/plastic/leather detailer
>Invisible Glass window cleaner

While decent, there are much better products outside of the CG line.

I tried a bunch of Chemical Guys products because I was curious. My evaluation:

>Chemical Guys Citrus Wash & Gloss car soap
It's OK but nothing special. I'll probably go back to Mothers California Gold when the bottle is done.

>Chemical Guys Nonsense general cleaner
I liked it so much I bought the gallon concentrate. It cleans everything really well.

>Chemical Guys Pete's '53 car wax
Just got it but haven't been able to use it yet. I've read that it makes blue paint jobs look really rich, so that's why I'm trying it.

>Chemical Guys Signature Series Wheel Cleaner
It's OK, but it's not really that strong. I usually get Black Magic, but I'll take suggestions on what to try next.

>Chemical Guys Silk & Shine rubber/plastic/leather detailer
It's actually pretty nice, and a little on a microfiber sponge or towel goes a long way. It's not high gloss, which is why I like it on the interior. It's fine on tires and exterior rubber and plastics. I like that it dries quickly.

Chem guys mr pink shampoo
Forget which soap cannon I use
Good ol bleach white for the tires
Meg's hyperdressing various strengths for interior/exterior

Mothers clay
Menzerna power lock sealer
Pinnacle sovereign paste wax
Meg's express spray wax.
Sometimes collinite insulator wax

Wolfgang compounds for corrections but I stay with blackfire products for black cars

bump because i find detailing interesting

Chemical Guys Citrus Wash & Gloss car soap
>dat value, but the mothers california gold and the meguiars ultimate or NXT are better washes, just more expensive
Meguiars D155
>dat value, and dat usability with clay, otherwise I'd use Megs UQD
Poorboy's Clay
Silicone waterblade
Wurth Rubber Protector
303 Aerospace Protectant
Klasse AIO + SG
Meguiars wheel cleaner, I can't remember which one.

I don't go for the tire black, it rains too much here to be of use.

McGuires and a terry towel. Faggot.

Great Value dish soap and an old bath towel.

I do all Meguiar's. Their stuff does a great job.

I just use the two bucket and turtlewax wash n wax shit. Keep it garaged.

I clean the wheels first with it's own sponge i can use my fingers with to get everywhere. Then a sponge thing with those fat hairs on it.

It's washed weekly, looks like this week it'll be raining a bunch but I like to do it anyway to not let a lot build up.

I used to use a lot of those specific products per area or task, but in the end a nice water down thoroughly and a decent car soap and rinse and dry does it in every area. For the engine bay I damp an old cloth and go around with the vacuum and some harder stuff if it needs it. The gunk stuff was good for the first few times on my '97. I don't think the engine bay was ever cleaned on that.

I've been working at cleaning my 2004 Pontiac vibe. I use well water, a brush, and a shop vac. no chemicals here :^)

Ammo NYC..
Nuff said

>meguiars wash and wax
>two bucket method
>grit guards
>microfiber mit for washing panels
>microfiber waffle towel for drying panels

i'll clay bar soon, then put some kind of wax on it.

What's your next detailing purchase?

pic related is mine

What's a good windshield cleaner for getting rid of streaks?

You must be me cause I do the same.
>I'm a slut for meguairs

I use Invisible Glass in the can. Two or three squirts, remove the bulk with a microfiber towel and any remaining streaks with a second microfiber towel if needed. If I'm working on the the interior, I spray the cleaner right on the towel to prevent it from getting everywhere.

Use newspaper with some windex nigga. Trust me

Stoners, but not the spray can stuff, shit gets everywhere. I managed to find a spray bottle.

> ITT glorified car washes

Water, soap with wax, two buckets, sheep glove, WW towel, presto.

enjoy destroying your paint

Professional detailer here. I've sampled every product I can get my hands on, read books, talked to several other pros, and one thing that everybody says is this: It really doesn't matter that much which products you use. Or, as Mike Phillips puts it, use the one that's closest to your hand.

Sure there are differences between a solvent based and water based tire dressing, but when you start comparing waxes and polishes, a lot of it comes down to preference.

I get a better result with certain products because I am familiar with them, they behave in a way that is predictable to me, or they compliment my personal technique.

Focus on the methods, techniques and principles behind cleaning and protecting your car, and try a few different products, you'll find what's best for you.

It's metal. It's a material good. It's a daily driver. I won't be going to the grave with it. Got better things to do with my time here than waste it washing a lump of plastic and metal and crying over a few swirls.

And if it ever got to such a sorry state, nothing that polishing or respraying wouldn't do.

Detailing sure is fun, to a certain degree, when it touches the autistic level, it's shit.

My car is ceramic coated, so I just habdwash optimum no rinse once a week.

> tips fedora

What? That's what I do. Do you think I'm some smug superior cunt for saying my cleaning habits?

as i said, enjoy destroying your paint

Well since that I have a 7 year old car, and it barely has swirl marks, i'd say the method works.

Now, imagine in 7 years how much more I have done and how much time you've wasted washing something that in a couple years you'll be replacing just for the next dude down the road completely fuck it up because he doesn't care.

What's your orbital polisher and pads of choice?

I just use a Griot's 6" and their 3" polishers, they were my first, still working after all this time and never really had a reason to upgrade. As far as pads, I have an assortment of Chemical Guys pads for lighter polishing, finishing, and applying topcoats. I also have Meguiar's microfiber pads for cutting and polishing, and some Lake Country pads for the 3". I use Chemical Guys V line of compounds and polishes for the most part, though I do occasionally use some Meg's polishes depending on how the paint is finishing out.

Do you have an upholstery extractor? I want to get one, and while I've used Castex (now Tennant) before, I've thought about going Durrmaid because I've read a lot of positive reviews. Plus it has a water heater.

>cutting when you have no idea what you are doing

stop

Nice reply bud

I've never really found a situation where I've needed an extractor. I do have a steamer, which I prefer on anything on the interior because it's so gentle. Most of my clients are enthusiasts so I don't run into a lot of massively soiled carpets, and even then I would probably try to chemically remove the contaminants, I've too paranoid about extractors leaving behind enough moisture to mildew.

>Do you think I'm some smug superior cunt for saying my cleaning habits?

enjoy destroying your paint

How do I rid this shit?

Brake dust spots.

I hear Sure Klean 600 works but that's for cleaning bricks and I'm hesitant to use it considering these are true M3 CSL wheels and I'd hate to damage them @ $700 each.

My car was tracked and this was accumulated during that time. They are very clean except for up close - being able to see the spots.

I've used many OTC products. Never tried the Sonax spray. Doubt it would work. Even tried WD 40 and a non scratch Scotch pad and it didn't remove really any and I used a bit of force.

>not applying wax with an old inside-out sock

This might do it: chemicalguys.com/DeCon_Pro_Iron_Remover_16_oz_p/spi21516.htm

1. WTF is clay and why does my car need it?

2. How do all the nignogs in my town make all their bald-ass tires look really black and shiny?

3. How tf do I wipe out windows without smearing everywhere?

4. How often should one wax?

Since you guys seem like you know what you're doing, what would you recommend doing to get rid of this stuff? I've tried normal cleaning supplies and hand buffing, but to no avail.

Also, how do you remove searches efficiently?

Scratches* I mean.

1. You don't. It's unnecessary bullshit to get you to spend more money

2. Who cares

3. Paper towel.

4. Every 6 months

Those look like fairly deep chips in the clearcoat.

Ur fukt m8, you need a new car.

That looks like the front fascia of a car, so I'd say those are either chips or bug marks. Bug guts can often contain chemicals that can stain or etch clearcoat, in Florida, lovebugs actually destroy the clear. If chips, they look different than on a hood because the plastic bumper is more compliant. In either case, the damage is very hard to remove, though I have seen some success with gentle wetsanding.

PARTS USED:
>spray soap dispenser quickrelease attachment (harbor freight)
>blue extensible pole with microfiber (mf) pad with big fat mf "hairs" on it (wal-mart)
>2 oz (two ounce) meguiar's gold class car wash
>mf drying/cleaning towels (sam's club)
>32oz spray bottle with 4 capful meg gold class wash & distilled water
>turtle wax ICE liquid wax
>turtle wax ICE spray detailer

METHOD:
0. Open hood to check wiper wells. Remove leaves and debris. Close hood.
1. Inspect dry car. Use spray bottle meg wash solution to clean off any problem spots or sap spots and wipe off with plush side of mf towel. Spray lightly on wheel hubs to loosen greasy grime but don't wipe off.
2. Quickly spray soap with angle setting onto dry car and wheels as presoak to loosen grease & debris.
3. Switch to water only with jet setting to agitate off loosened dirt. Aim with low angle and not perpendicular to surfaces. Use jet on wheels.
4. Switch to angle spray setting with soap with moderate water flow rate. Use mf pad on pole across car surfaces top to bottom but dont touch wheels. No need to press down as its own weight is enough. Go over car twice with pole and the soap is all used up.
5. Switch to water jet and quickly rinse mf pad. Set aside in clean spot.
6. Switch to angle spray and rinse car off.
7. Dry car off by removing most water with water blade (zero scratch as I use non china-made T-bar blade). Use mf towels to finish drying. Open doors & trunk. Use already damp mf towels to dry door openings. Bounty paper towel the wheels.
8. Check for water spots while still in sunlight. Use spray detailer to remove spots.
9. Rinse off mf pad on pole and set in stand to dry. Clean, inspect, and put away stuff.
10. Move car indoors to garage. Wipe each section with fresh mf to remove dust and then immediately turtle wax ICE each section. Repeat until car done.
11. Clean wax applicator, rinse well, and let dry.

12.Park under trees with cicadas since they urinate on car. Ah summertime.

Would it be just a better idea in the end of get a new bumper cover then? These marks are only here, not really anywhere except for the side skirts which I also plan on replacing.

>clay is unnecessary bullshit
holy shit what a moron

>Also, how do you remove scratches efficiently?

There is no good way to remove scratches because most methods involve thinning down your clearcoat so that the depth of the scratch is not so apparent. The best compromise is to use a gentle polish that is mentioned to remove scratches. It doesn't actually remove the scratch, but rounds off the sharp edges of the scratch thus reducing its apparent visibility. But the scratch is still there and technically speaking, you made the scratch wider. But at least it's now less visible in terms at any single angle.

To remove a chip to metal, you'll have to use touch up paint and a toothpick or pin to apply it. I apply it and it will bulge up slightly above the surface of the adjacent paint. I then carefully stroke quickly across the surface with a piece of paper parallel to the surface and the excess paint is drawn off so that it no longer bulges above the adjacent painted surface. Wipe carefully in the adjacent areas to remove the haze the paint residue left from the stroke. With practice, you will get the method down perfectly.

GM does have a clear coat touch up and you can use that with the same leveling trick I mentioned for paint. However, I just use paint and skip using clear coat. I had tried the clear coat before and it is too much bother as I'd have to make the paint touchup thinner in order to leave room for the clear coat to be applied later.

>1. WTF is clay and why does my car need it?
It's only needed if you intend for people to touch your painted surfaces like in a judging contest, car show, or to impress someone. Otherwise it's a waste of money and time.

>3. How tf do I wipe out windows without smearing everywhere?
Use paper towel and cleaning solution to remove most of the stubborn greasy film from your air freshener. Finish by using clean microfiber (mf) to pull off the remaining bit that paper towels won't remove. Paper towel first. MF last.

>1. WTF is clay and why does my car need it?
It pulls dirt out of the pores in your clear coat and on your windows. Sealer and wax sticks better when you clay bar first.

>2. How do all the nignogs in my town make all their bald-ass tires look really black and shiny?
They probably use Black Magic Tire Wet.

>3. How tf do I wipe out windows without smearing everywhere?
. If you're doing the interior windows, especially the windshield, they can get an oil film on them from the outgassing of plastic parts. Use a Magic Eraser sponge to break down the oil, wipe dry with a microfiber towel, then use window cleaner directly on a microfiber and follow that with a dry, clean microfiber to finish the job. It seems like a lot of steps, but it's really not that bad.

>4. How often should one wax?
That depends on the wax, the elements and how often you wash. Some wax jobs last a few months, some last half a year.

>Professional detailer here

As an example of professional detailing from my area's huge flagship chevy dealer which has three employees dedicated to detailing (that I saw), I quietly drove and parked nearby in their lot to watch in my legally but darkly tinted car (35%). One detailer kept on wiping (drying) the washed car with a SINGLE dirty "synthetic chamois" all over instead of using fresh new ones for top and bottom. He would occasionally wring it and continue drying. Scratch City. The other detailer was repeatedly wiping the lower panels to dry the wet car and re-wiping over some lower areas up to four times. So, he wasn't only drying but trying to remove dirt that had not been removed in the washing of the car. Scratch City. That employee also let the microfiber cloth drag on the ground in the water puddles. That was the cloth he dried the car with. Double Scratch City!

It's clear both professional car detailing employees expected the wax job to hide all the scratches they made until it was too late for the car owner to complain about where all the very many new scratches came from.

>4. How often should one wax?
It varies with many factors and preferences. Climate. Garage or not. Tree sap or not. Lots of rain or not. Do you need to wax in order to keep up appearances with an always shiny clean car? Or does a non-shiny but clean car work? Or does a non-shiny and dusty car work for you? You wax when the wax is gone. One way to tell is to look at the surface in the sunshine. If you can see lots of scratch marks and swirls from the dealer prep back when the car was new, then your wax has worn off. There might be some residual shine, but that is from the polymer oil residue and not the wax.

i clean rims for dat sick weight reduction gainz

>pores in your clear coat
get fucked salesmen

if you have time to do this shit, you either have a dead end job or need to be working harder

Enjoy destroying your paint.

faggot

It doesn't take long if you keep up with it.

>if you have time to do this shit, you either have a dead end job or need to be working harder

It takes me approximately 15 minutes to wash my car and put away the gear. Waxing, vacuuming the interior, cleaning windows, and followed by removing the wax is about another 15 minutes since I use turtle wax ICE which is easy to apply and easy to take off. I suppose I could do it faster, but I don't want to be in a rush to try to set some world speed record.

Once you get your act together and avoid wasted motion or wasted eff, things are pretty fast.

>if you have time to do this shit
It probably takes YOU forever to do it because you just dawdle around complaining to yourself every minute why you hate taking care of things you use. Does that mean your attitude is more of a "throw it away" personality?

Many people are like that. Do the minimum effort whether it is for things the own, relationships, or their job. I've seen all that in other people and it makes me feel sad about the human race. A little price in what you own is good; it helps you want to take care of things. A little price in the relationship you have means you will be willing to put in unequal effort at those times it is needed to withstand a stressful time. A little price in being an honest ethical person is better than being a cynical person about ethics and honest; well, that is a matter of personality too and can't be helped for some people that are chronically dishonest.

Just applied some back to black shit on my plastic trim pieces.
It's that type of black dye gel. Do you really need to wait 2 days without washing the car for that shit to fully cure?
Cause I wanted to wash and wax the car tomorrow.

Lol at everyone wasting money on cleaning their car just to have it get dirty within 3 days.

My routine
>Hose down/clean (free)
>Bucket of Hertel + water
>Soak a microfiber cloth in the hertel solution and wipe down the car

Making sure to spray the cloth clean of any grit before putting it back into the bucket of my hertel solution.

>Spray down car again with hose (free)
>Air dry + microfiber towel dry
>Windex all windows

>Use spray nine on my mags
>Wipe off with regular garage towel

>Use walmart spray tire shine on tires
>Wipe off with regular garage towel

AND BOBS YOUR UNCLE my car looks brand new

Is Hertel an all-purpose cleaner?

No particular order:
>carpro hydr02 (spray on sealant I like to use on wheels)
>invisible glass (great for tinted windows)
>wool wash mitt
>menzerna sealant (cheaper than collinite but equally effective)
>electric pressure washer with foam lance
>boars hair brushes (get them for cheap through art supplies stores)
>nanoskin wash mitt (instead of clay bar)
I spend too much money on this shit.

I use Mr pink it works well, but am giving the car pro foaming soap a shot next since it's like $5 cheaper per gallon.

My driveway is on a steep incline so I'll never be able to use those, but my next purchase is going to be 3d bdx, which is 3d's version of car pro iron x.

If you do not make/create time to maintain your car, it shows how much you actually care about your vehicle.

>power wash chevy impala
>wash with bucket of soap and brush
>rinse and douse with resistall paint sealant
>run through automatic car wash
>dry with cotton towels and waterblade
who /PaintDestroyer/ here?

I can wash my car the right way, with a foam gun, with minimal/no paint scratching in 25 minutes, start to finish, including drying.

Learn to do it right, do it once every couple weeks, learn the routine, and take pepper care of your most valuable possessions.

A car/paint job will last 20 years if you buy the right vehicle and care for it properly. Mine is 13 years old with original paint and no rust, you can still see the paint fleck in it.

"Muh valuable time" is not a reason to fail to take good care of valuable possessions.

Meguiars NXT 2.0 tech wax
Magic clay
Mother's gold soap

Mothers and Turtle Wax.

My favorite detailing find has been the Nanoskin clay towel. It is so much nicer than a clay bar, takes a LOT less time, and does a better job. Plus it's washable and lasts a long time.

autogeek.net/nanoskin-autoscrub-towel.html

Other wise my usual regime is:
>3 bucket system with grit guards. 1 for wheels, 2 for paint
>Meguiars Gold Class car Wash
>Nanoskin Clay Towel
>Autogeek Waffle Weave Drying Towel
>Wolfgang 3.0 Deep Gloss Paint Sealant
>finish coat of P21-S Carnuba Wax
>leather care with Leather Master products
>Meguiars Interior Detailer
>Sprayaway Glass Cleaner
>Ammo NYC wheel and tire products

I just picked up an '02 NB Miata with a 6 speed for college @ 41k miles, fucking sweet deal at $8000. It's goddamned flawless and it was this old guy's weekend cruiser, he took great care of it. I really want to take good care of it because this car is fantastic and deserves proper care, but I don't have any access to proper detailing equipment or anything

Is this sufficient for keeping it pretty?
>wash every weekend
>two-bucket system
>rinse car top to bottom with no nozzle
>use a soft sponge and car-wash solution, long strokes
>hit everything with it, including windows, saving wheels for last because they're the dirtiest
>rinse again
>natural chamois blot-dry, rinsing it off if it gets anything on it

Is this good? Is there anything I could do as a poor college student with no garage and little free time that would help me take better care of it? I've had it for 2 days so I haven't given it it's first wash yet, I dunno what to do.

Don't use a chamois, they only pick up water, any dirt you may have missed will just be dragged across your now dry paint. Get yourself a waffle-weave microfiber towel, or just use a damp microfiber towel and some quick detailer for lubricant. This will absorb both water and any possible dirt that may have been missed.

F A G G O T
A
G
G
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T

>My driveway is on a steep incline
I know what that's like. The house I grew up in had an inclined driveway. It was a pain for a lot of things, especially car work because I had to work in a tight garage.

Get a chenille microfiber mitt for washing and waffle weave microfiber towels for drying.

Examples:

>Mitt
amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_493-Microfiber-Scratch-Free/dp/B003TTL0TE

>Waffle weave
amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-MIC_702_01-Waffle-Microfiber/dp/B0041I1IX0

Yep I use pic related, throw a capful in my 7-8L bucket of warmish water. Leaves a nice shine too.

>>dry with cotton towels and waterblade

Where did you buy your waterblade? There are various types of so-called "waterblades" but they are really just single-bladed silicon squeegees and not how the original waterblade worked in removing water without scratching.

>My favorite detailing find has been the Nanoskin clay towel. It is so much nicer than a clay bar, takes a LOT less time, and does a better job.

Nanoskin rubberized cloth reminds me of my attempt to find a cheap easy to use clay substitute. Clay works by friction grabbing at the protruding ends of the debris speared into your clearcoat. I thought latex does the same thing as long as there was a continuous water stream to provide lubrication. They are the thin latex examination gloves used in labs and are not thick latex ones for home cleaning.

Making sure the latex fits smoothly around the hand (no wrinkles on the gloves touching the car), enough of a light water mist from a hose sprayer was continually sprayed while rubbing the hand with the gentlest of strokes across the paint. The water moves the grit out from under the glove reducing chance of scratching by re-rubbing the grit into the paint. The paint was already cleaned of loose dirt, grime, and sap. The surface was therefore smooth except for the occasional grit that embedded itself into the paint.

I kept all of the very light strokes in one linear direction at all times. This was to verify that if scratches occurred by me, they would be linear ones in that direction and thus can be determined to be caused only by the experiment. There were certainly of circular ones from dealer detailing of the new car.

After several very light even passes, the few bits of grit were gone just like with a clay bar. I dried the surface and looked in the sunlight for scratches and found none. So this experiment worked.

I still regard the use of latex examination gloves as a failure though because as soft as they are, they don't provide the same deep absorbancy that clay does to bury the grit deep enough so it doesn't scratch (if properly used). The nanoskin apparently is able to not scratch because it has that soft towel backing and much (but not all) of the grit can be washed out of its surface.

Hey guys. Car cleaning noob here.

I drive a Golf mk4 TDI, But i want to keep it in shape. Knowing how the guys at car washes wash the cars here, i donr want to pay them for a half assed job.

I know i need a mf mitt and towels and 2 buckets with grit guards.
Without a foam lance, what should i do and in what order to clean and possibly detail my econobox? (w/ wax, is polishing mandatory? Scared to fuck up the clearcoat and paint)

This is me, 100%.
But this is also because I drive a Chevy Lumina, so, there is no point polishing a turd.

>Golf mk4 TDI
1. Do you live in Florida?
2. Is it a manual?
3. If you answered yes to both of these questions, are you interested in selling it?

I can't find a manual golf TDI for the life of me.

Also I wouldn't care if it is a 2 door or 4 door (2 door is preferred though).
Miles would be more than likely irrelevant to me since it's a diesel.

Its a Variant, I wouldnt have it any other way than a manual, and im Yuro.
Sorry senpai.
The 100 tarbodiesel hp do feel stronger than they are.


To add to my orginal post, also how do you clean your interiors?

>tarbodiesel
God I want to join the diesel gang so badly. I deliver pizza as a wage cuck, so I feel like a diesel would be decent to invest into. But obviously not a huge ass diesel truck I don't need.
And I can't afford a hybrid/full electric vehicle, so that's out the window.

MX-7 Plus hard water sport remover both for paint and the one for glass. Only hard water spot remover products that seem to work.
Sonax car wash shampoo
Optimum power clean for the wheels
Mothers Back to Black works nicely on my plastic trim parts
Lexol leather cleaner and conditioner
Armorall new car smell protectant for the plastic interior parts. Works fine for plastic interior which I don't have much of and plastic is the only interior part ill let an armorall product touch. Smells good but it doesn't smell like a new car.
Armorall Extreme Tire Shine works ok for the price, will find something better eventually

For all my swirl removal, polishing, glazing, sealing, waxing I use Chemical Guys products.
Tip for 2015+ Mustang owners, the plastic tailgate panel scratches/stains easily as you probably know already. Novus plastic polish worked magic on it. I was contemplating having it painted black so it would be easier to maintain before I found this product. All I needed was a few passes of the stage 2 and then I hit it with the stage 1 polish then I sealed it with Chemical Guys Jet Seal. I'm going to clean it up again but this time I'm going to wax it after the seal.

what non filler product compound do you use for polishing?

>w/ wax, is polishing mandatory?

There is no need to polish out the scratches because wax hides them. There are all kinds of polishes out there because that word "polish" seems to be used in different ways. The old way it was used meant the product had a very mild abrasive in it that would smooth the surface. By removing the scratches by wearing down the clear coat, the shine would be better after waxing. Sure, but now your clear coat is thinner.

If you are just slightly daring, you can try a polish but use it very little. That would wear the clear coat only a tiny bit, but your goal is to remove the sharp edge of the scratch which is what makes it most visible. For sake of example, let's say every scratch is a perfectly carved rectangular scratch into the clear coat. The top edges of the crack are right angles of course. By polishing very lightly, those sharp corners are rounded, thus changing how that scratch reflects light. This overall makes the scratch a slight bit less visible. How long to do the polishing? No idea.

ANYWAYS, I don't polish my car. I depend on the wax to hide the scratches the dealer's careless detailers put into my paint. After seeing those detailers (in their 20's) work on cars in the renton chevy dealer's lot (Good Chevrolet) and letting mf cloths touch the wet ground and then using those cloths, I was quite disappointed and a bit angry. People with "LOL who cares it's justa job" attitude really suck. The only time such people do a good job is when the someone watches them. Otherwise they slack off due to having no sincerity of doing a good job.

Get a TDI Volkswagen

This.


Neat, thanks.

Yeah, 98% of people are like that. The 2% is either the guys who make a proper living due to the mentality, or just the guys who love their job or do it properly because they are good human beans.

For polishing I use V36 or V38 from Chemical Guys with the Kevin Brown method, usually with a foam pad, but I will go to microfiber if the paint is a little tougher.

I bought a cheap pressure washer a few months ago, and it makes casual cleaning a lot easier than the usual bucket and sponge method. The foam gun that was included is shit though, I'm thinking of maybe getting a Chemical Guys one or something.

check out Fusso Coat by Soft99

the japs fucking LOVE having clean cars so some of their products are pretty fantastic. fusso coat is easy to apply and lasts for ages, def worth checking it out

pic semi related, my first enthusiasts car that i detailed the shit out of just cos i loved it so much even though the pain was kinda grimey in places and she was old af

>Viper
I am not worthy but I will have you some day!
>tfw no Viperu to love and cherish :(

fucking weebs..

That looks hazy as fuck

>mfw the newspaper streakless window trick actually worked

Phone cameras don't perform too well outside of natural light, and these lights are color corrected LEDs for paint booths, so I can see every imperfection.

It's my favorite car to work on, and I get to mess with it all the time. Everything about it is retarded and amazing.

My god that thing is sexy.
Fucking hell, i swear my heart flutters at the sight of it.
I only saw it live once in my life and i got watery eyes. Been my absolute dream car since i was 4 years old back in 1998.
/end fanboying

>Everything about it is retarded and amazing
I can say its amazing from what i know and have seen, but what you mean retarded?