Hi Veeky Forums

Hi Veeky Forums,
Sticky isn't particularly specific with this, so thought I'd ask...

What's a good, cheap used car for frequent long drives??
Something reliable enough to make a 300 mile drive every month without worrying about it breaking down along the way.

I was thinking about a Camry, 95-onwards with a decent mile count...
I'm probably dead wrong tho.

Only if the Camry is 2dr 4cyl manual.

Ford Ranger

...

>worrying about a 300mi drive
Why? I drive more than that every 4 days. Literally any car can do that.

Oh yeah also I know a co-worker that's selling a very decent Altima '99 for $2500.

It's in pretty good shape, but I don't think an Altima would be very good for long drives?? Would it? Odometer's under 150k.

>Altima
NO NO NO NO NO NO NO
Absolute junk

>300+ miles in multiple drives
>300+ miles in a single drive

A difference

The engine doesn't care. Running is running.

You're a special kind of stupid, aren't you?

There's a huge difference between commuting for a week and driving two states over in a day.

>heat cycle doesn't exist.
>engine load doesn't exist
Okee dokee

Usually a car doesn't care if it's cruising a long distance on the highway. That's easier than stop and go on city streets for short trips.

If you're worried about it making long trips then it's an unreliable POS that you can merely tolerate since if it does break down you can walk the rest of the way.

So what you're looking for, primarily, is a car that is merely reliable and nowadays those are dime a dozen.
But what else would you need?
I recommend two things.
1) COMFY FACTOR 10/10
Most Jap cars fall flat on their face here because they're designed for manlets (which is fine if you are one) and really short drives since the country is so small. Ironically I've found Mitsubishi interiors really comfy, and Subaru's to be the worst. I think it's all preference, but I'd be SUPER picky when it comes to how the car feels to sit in. It needs to be PERFECT for you. If it's not, no matter how cheap or how good the car is you should pass.
2) ADEQUATE POWER
A Toyota Tercel might be great for the morning commute in the flatlands but it's hopeless on a long trip. Second you hit a 6% grade and climb up to high altitude the ~70hp won't keep the car moving much faster than 45mph, which doesn't quite cut it on the interstate. You will need a car that's geared to cruise at ~70mph with enough power to do so without struggling. We're talking about 75hp per ton. That's not a huge standard and most modern cars cope just fine but a lot of the older rustbuckets were designed at a time when the universal speed limit was 55, though some newer vehicles don't like going over 55 either. Again, tranny gearing has to work well with what power the engine puts out as well. Some cheaper slushboxes overheat very quickly on hill climbs.

(Con't on next post)

Dumbest post on Veeky Forums so far today.

Additionally:
ADEQUATE MPG/FUEL CAPACITY
You don't need a Prius. Anything that can average ~20 City/30 Hwy will do. It's just that a lot of the bigger luxo-boats do 18 on the highway if you're rolling downhill in neutral with a tailwind. If money were no object it wouldn't matter, but in that case you'd buy a newer car anyway. This also affects range. You can stretch a fuel tank longer if you're not burning it as fast, but that of course also depends on tank capacity. Some hold less than 10 gallons. Some over 20. Average is around 15. More is better because you'll have to stop less often (which also means stopping at shitty gas stations in small towns that overprice their gas).

Finally, I also recommend ADEQUATE SPACE
You should if need be, have the ability to sleep in your car. If it's comfy enough and has the room to do so, this is a big plus. Adequate space also means adequate trunk space for clothes and supplies that you will need for the trip. A secure, lockable trunk is important to deter theft but if you prefer a wagon or hatchback a luggage cover will at least place everything out of sight/mind.

I also forgot to mention under ADEQUATE POWER that low pressure turbos are great for driving at high elevation. A 1990s Volvo 850 GLT or 940 turbo would be great for your needs.

Yes, because your 5 foot lifted Bro-Truck that redlines at 2k driving 50mph and gets single-digit MPG or your Miata that transfers every pothole directly to your spine is much better for long distance driving than a car designed specifically for this purpose.

You have a special way of looking at things don't you?

And you have not presented any actual counter-argument.

Camrys are fairly quiet and comfortable, but avoid the older models with the 5SFE. It's not a bad engine over all, but there's a seal in the oil pump that has to be changed when the timing belt is done, and 8/10 times, it's not done. Since rubber naturally decays over time, any 5SFE that hasn't been carefully maintained has been running with some degree of oil starvation for quite a while.

The 2AZ has its own share of problems, but it seems to do well enough in the Camry.

Personally, I prefer something with a long wheelbase, tall gears, and plenty of torque on the highway. Most pleasant car I've taken on a highway trip was a relative's hemi Dodge Magnum, but I'd never suggest that someone buy a Chrysler product.

>Most Jap cars fall flat on their face here because they're designed for manlets
Ignorant and not true.
>Tercel is hopeless on a long trip.
Not true and not the car OP asked about
>70hp won't keep the car moving much faster than 45mph
Ignorant and untrue
>cheaper slushboxes overheat very quickly on hill climbs
Ignorant and untrue
>rolling downhill in neutral
Gets worse mpg than rolling downhill in gear.
>newer car
Does not equal better mpg

Civic. Camry. Corolla. 4 cyl accord, don't get a V6 the transmissions in those like to shit the bed.

On a $4000 budget I'd probably look for a decent Focus Hatch/Wagon in Manuel. SVT Focus if you want something a little more special.

>Focus
He said reliable.

Buy a civic and shut the fuck up
This works too
Rangers arr great little trucks, what arr you on about?

He said 'reliable enough'.

Not comfy for long drives. No cab storage. No room for passengers. Bad mpg.
It's nothing like what OP asked for

Yeah but it should make it more than a mile without breaking.

Minivan. Quiet, comfortable, spacious, long wheelbase, cheap as shit used because nobody wants them.

And shitty mpg , OP get a civic and stfu

They get decent MPG with the 2.3 and I find mine pretty comfy. You have cab storage if you get an extended cab.

I have a Camry of that generation, it's really solid.

uhhh... commuting is harder, due to the shorter distances driven at slower speeds combined with stop and go traffic

>what are cooling systems?
>what is thermal conductivity?

>sticky isn't specific
you aren't using it right.
>all the cars on the sticky are considered generally reliable unless noted
>so if you're not a mechanic don't take a poor mans special or a special snowflake on a trip

>since you're blind
>sticky sez that Camry is good alternative for a Honda Accord

You don't say how cheap, but a 3rd through 5th gen Camry is certainly very cheap and comfy enough to do 300 mile drives. I have a 4th gen with the 3.0 V6 and it has run flawlessly with enough power to merge and overtake on the freeway without too much fuss. Use it to visit my elderly parents twice a month and it's about 450 miles one way. If you get a V6 Camry, make sure the engine hasn't sludged up. If it looks good, keep oil changed regularly and PCV valve cleaned/replaced regularly and you're golden.