03 Jetta wagon

Looking at an 03 Jetta wagon, manual. Has 194k on it, gas engine. How are these things, never owned a VW, but I need a DD for work. Is $1,000 a good price, what do I need to look out for. Google inage photo, but same color and decent condition

>Volkswagen
>reliable
pick one.

Are they really that bad? I have another vehicle, I just need something to drive around for work. I rather not put loads of miles onto my new car.

us market? avoid it. europoor? avoid it unless you have no other option.

It depends on luck of the draw usually. i have heard nothing but bad about the Mexican built US models.

Even if you manage to get a reliable one, the fact remains that parts, even normal maintenance parts, are uber expensive for no real reason.
A friend f mine compared prices for spark plugs and wires for his 2.0L SOHC I4 Mk3 Jetta, and a 97 Pontiac Grand Prix.
It was cheaper to get 6 spark plugs and wires for the Pontiac's 3.8L V6 than to get 4 of the same for his VW.

On a related note, try looking at a 1997-2008 Pontiac Grand Prix. Yes, they're automatic only, and quality is pretty shit, but the fuckers will run after the apocalypse. And the supercharged cars can be made real fast real cheap.

a 200k vw is a scary thing, but it's also only $1000, could maybe get it for $800 or $900.

What will it need, probably everything like most cars at that mileage. I'd check the belts, I'd check for where the leaks are coming from, feel it going into gears if it's slipping or grinding getting in gear. Check the rockers, wheel wells, and suspension top perches for rust. Look at the service history and the intervals for timing belt/chain guides and chain. Look at the mpg vs its epa rated mpg thats a pretty good indication of compression. check the rear view for white smoke on accel and deccel the standard stuff, that will tell you if it needs rings or valve seals.

I mean you can't expect a perfect car for $1k, but aesthetically it looks really good.
It's to hard to nitpick about a 200k car, because it's usually always a deal for someone who can fix it. I'd snatch it up, desu, but I also can completely rebuild it myself if need be. So that's the risk you take.

If you can't be your own mechanic you might want to step up to the ~2-3k range of jap cars, it will save you money in the long run by not going to a mechanic. that's my opinion.

Prices are fucking sky high in Alaska. Normally $1000 gets you a rusted out shit box that usually has a bad engine. Any Pontiac you see is owned by a native and duct taped together.

Any particular suggestions? I have a 2016 wrangler, so im not overly worried of shop time or omg4tarbos. I just need something to rack up mileage and not kill me in the winter.

the trans units in them are dogshit too. my aunt had one, holy fuck what a piece of shit. thing was just a dog for no real reason. terrible mpg, terrible performance.

Chances are if it has that many miles it's ok. How much?

They want 1300. Got them down to 1000. Its a friend of a friend.
>female owner, high miles...
Inb4 buying anything from a female

1.8t or 2.0 or tdi?

civics and corollas are always good for this purpose. I wouldn't even blink an eye at a late 90's early 2000's corolla with 190k they last forever and can be had for 2k-3k with ~150k miles.

i like vws but they seem to be owned by retards and like the other guy said parts and tech costs are really high for no real reason.

this one could be a good buy though, never know.

I think its the 1.8. Its pretty base model. Its confirmed not diesel, she didn't have much more knowledge other than new brakes in a few months.

female owned can be good in some cases. the fact that it's aesthetically in good condition is an indicator that she was a good owner.

Then I wouldn't buy it unless you can afford another grand or two on repairs.

Its not perfect. I used a google stock image. Needs a front bumper, gas door, and the obvious window like every vehicle here. She did say the interior has a few burn marks (pothead) but everything seems in working order. I just dont need a second money pit. I drive about 30k miles a year, mainly city.

Apart from clutch, what will be an immediate repair? Im fairly handy, i just dont know how terrible these are to work on..

New suspension if it hasn't been done, maybe oil or other fluid leaks, good tires

Timing belt/chain

Any idea how long this engine will go on average? Assuming routine maintenance is done

The whole VW reliability thing is just a meme, like any other car things break over time, usually from lack of maintenance. Maintaining it is not as expensive as idiots on this website who have never owned one would lead you to believe. They're just sputtering shit they overheard their dad or uncle say.

It's not just a meme. The b5 Passat has complex multilink front suspension that has double the number of ball joints. Engine problems, transmissions, etc...

European cars, vw specialist tech here. These are great little cars. A couple of the downsides are the thermostat housing, pcv and the pcv hoses, oil pans seem to be always leaking. They are nice cars to work on though, compared to other euro stuff I work that is.

Family owns a 99 Passat TDI wagon since 2002 and put over 200k km on it.
Apart from regular maintenance which is the same as on any other car, the only things that broke down were the wishbones on the front axle, the alternator and a leaking diesel pump thanks to the shitty bio fuel we get here.

Hardly complex, the duel upper control arms are a bear to do. Not complex though.

200k km
So like 75k miles?

The 1.8 was actually above the 2.0.
The 2.0L was a 2.0L SOHC 8V making 115 HP.
The 1.8L was a 1.8L DOHC 20V turbo making 150-180 HP.

So is this a cop or not? Considering what's on the local Craigslist (look up anchorage alaska) this seems solid. I just don't want a money pit, it's only to not rack up miles on my jeep.

It's impossible to tell from behind computer screens breh, You may or may not get a car that was improperly maintained.

125k miles

JD Powers graphs are the result of 3 years of reported problems. Any problems.
So this 2006 chart is for reported problems over a 3 year period, meaning it's for 2003 model year cars.
The only inaccuracy I will say is Saturn, as Saturn's numbers are blown out of proportion by CVT transmissions offered from 2002-2004.

forgot my chart

>land rover
What the fuck.

True. I'm just looking for an on average basis. This would be potentially the first used vehicle I've bought, so I am a little concerned of infinite repairs

If the body is in decent shape and it runs good with no weird noises I'd say go for it. Make sure to ask when the timing belt and tensioner were done. If it hasn't been done, you will have to do it eventually.

Keep in mind the mileage is just the distance the car's body has traveled. It does not necessarily indicate the condition of the drivetrain, which is what you need to pay attention to.

$1,000 is a good price if it runs. Test drive it to see if there is anything obviously wrong.

Also, walk away if it's the 2.slow