DORITO THREAD

**ROTARY THREAD**

'hurr no torque' edition

L10A/L10B --> RX8 welcome

>Post projects
>Post experiences
>Post questions
>Post irrelevant bullshit

Other urls found in this thread:

chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/5569501274.html
youtube.com/watch?v=JcyvTuoslAA
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

Stop making generals about stupid shit.

Current project before i pulled it off the road: 2 owner original 1977 Capella.

>12a Bridgeport
>RX5 5 speed
>Locked diff

Had a few old rotaries before this one but never converted a piston car myself, still a few months away from being completed yet.

stay mad pistonfag

alphonse made me a janny, enjoy your ban pistoncuck

im cumming i cam again

U get beaten by camry go away

>Audi A6 C5
>RX7
You fucking masochist.

Generals fuck off to Reddit.

Rad seven m8, one day i will have a blue S8 in the garage.

I don't see the word 'general' anywhere you autistic dipshit, complain elsewhere

It's a general autist.
Find the right subreddit.

Its the 2.7t too lol

> huur duur don't post threads!
Fuck off stupid cunt
I don't see your autistic posts in the actual general threads. Go annoy people there, busrider

Friend finished his 13B-REW swapped RX-4 recently and it got me wanting a rotary again. Thinking about getting an FC or FD. I prefer the FC overall (looks) but FDs seem to be better in every way.

Almost bought an FC a few years ago but FDs were only $2000-3000 more. Nowadays they're a little over double what an FC costs.

I know single turbo swaps on the 13B-REW are pretty common but how much extra work would I need to put into an FC to get similar performance and handling? Not after crazy power, 300-400hp range.

Would a GT35R be a good choice for a 13BT or would I want to go smaller?

sorry for wanting to discuss a unique internal combustion engine with likeminded enthusiasts on an automotive forum, i'll go back to posting Twingo threads and unfunny memes

>I don't see your autistic posts in the actual general threads.
Because there's too fucking many

You should be sorry.

T04z is a popular choice for 13bs in that power range

13b-REW RX4 would be one hell of a weapon, your m8 is certified badass.

Im not too cluey on turbo setups on rotaries (im an N/A tragic) but i can only assume if you're wanting reliable 350/400rwhp a rebuild will be on the cards... if thats the case either an FC or FD will be a great choice especially if you can pick one up with a dud engine for basically nothing.

13b with a large extend/turbo port, GT35r and supporting mods (fuel/cooling/driveline) should see 400-450rwhp which is an absolute assload in a small light car like an RX7.

How much of a sacrilege would it be to swap a Mazda piston engine (2.3 Turbo from a Mazdaspeed) into arguably the least desirable rotary vehicle, an RX-8?

Certainly not sacrilege as i don't consider the RX8 a classic or desirable rotary (a good car yes but not 'exciting' by any means) but there are much better engine conversion options for RX8s in my opinion.

Ibdon't think anybody considers the RX-8 to be desirable.

Can you think of any better non-rotary Mazda engine? I can't. Sure, an LS or JZ would be nice, but I like the idea of keepin a Mazda engine in it.

If you intend on keeping it Mazda then not really, unfortunately their performance offerings lately have been lacking (especially for conversions into RWD cars). LS1/2/3 is the best bang for buck and probably easiest but also a pretty boring and shitty conversion to do, i've seen a few RX8s in NZ with FD RX7 13bs in them so i assume thats a possibility? Would keep it Mazda AND rotary

Anybody got any experience with propane/LPG/autogas systems in a rotary? They should effectively halve the fuel costs for a rotary, but I'm worried it'll add to the heat, seal wear and oiling problems.

>tfw no money
chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/5569501274.html

A bloke i buy parts off is running an FC RX7 13bt on dedicated LPG, has done over 15,000kms no worries.

Cant assist you any more than that but it can be done, try searching the ausrotary forums im sure it has been covered there.

Used a T04E awhile back and didn't like it at all, wasn't a rotary though. How does a T04Z compare?

>13b-REW RX4 would be one hell of a weapon, your m8 is certified badass.
It's pretty ridiculous but it leaks fuel. Idle is nice and rough from porting though.

>a rebuild will be on the cards...
Doesn't bother me. Assumed I'd do it immediately.

>13b with a large extend/turbo port, GT35r and supporting mods (fuel/cooling/driveline) should see 400-450rwhp which is an absolute assload in a small light car like an RX7.
Was hoping for 350-400rwhp.

Alternatively is an NA ported 20B. Friend of mine does a lot of importing and seemed pretty confident he could get a Cosmo engine for not a huge amount of money.

I found the garage you guys use
>rotary

>Leaks fuel
Rotaries are supposed to stink like a jerrycan but fuel leakage is a no-no, tell your mate to pull his head in and fix it.

20B PP or something like that is the ultimate engine but im sceptical of your friends claim of finding a GOOD (keyword) 20b for cheap. Here in aus they command huge money and on pulldown/inspection if the housings are fucked you are up for a stupid amount of money for good replacements. Not to mention things like legalities and motor fitment etc

A mild/extend port 13bt with a to4z and a freeflowing exhaust in my opinion the best setup for a mild streeter

>not DIY

>cant have a thread with a theme!!!
good one

>Rotaries are supposed to stink like a jerrycan but fuel leakage is a no-no, tell your mate to pull his head in and fix it.
Yeah he's only driven it a few times until he gets it sorted. He's been working on it for years. We had three parts cars in the backyard at one point...

>20B PP or something like that is the ultimate engine but im sceptical of your friends claim of finding a GOOD (keyword) 20b for cheap
Completely understand your skepticism man, I'm inclined to agree with you. The guy imports construction materials and occasionally brings other stuff over in containers. He's come through with full BMW engines in the past so anything is possible.

From memory he was saying somewhere around $5000 (AUD) for the engine plus the costs of getting it here.

>A mild/extend port 13bt with a to4z and a freeflowing exhaust in my opinion the best setup for a mild streeter
Yeah I was thinking a mild port with a GTX30 or GT35R on the 13BT would be my go-to. I looked into a 13B-REW swap but it doesn't really seem worth the hassle if I want to change to a single turbo setup anyway.

Main thing that draws me to the 20B is an NA 20B is a legal swap in SA and the sound is mental.
youtube.com/watch?v=JcyvTuoslAA

I forgot all of your cars live on jack stands in your parents drive way

What's with all the hate recently?
I hope to dorito swap a Twingo in the future. Have fun with your thread boys

5k sounds about right but its always a gamble with unopended rotary motors, you also must factor in machining costs to convert the standard style housings to PP and things like custom inlet manifolds/throttlebodies and exhaust headers which get very pricey very quickly. Another thing to consider is driveability, i had an 808 sedan with an injected 13b PP and it was an absolute cunt of a thing to drive, 2000RPM idle and no street manners underneath 5000rpm combined with a deafening exhaust led to plenty of complaints from neighbours and the general public.

IMO i would go 13bt, best bang for buck, easy to do and plenty of power/driveability.

But don't give up on that 20bpp dream :^)

kek, the laid up part is correct but the parents driveway part not so, manchildren cant afford 2 cars (one if which gets 25L per 100km)

Word. I was just trying to stir the pot. I'm actually in the market for an rx7 to rebuild. I love my e46 but I'm tired of commuting with it2

Part of being a rotary owner is learning to accept and deflect criticism because lord knows you will cop it, a lot.

Sounds good m8, FB/FC/FD?

When you enter into the path of a rotard, do you rebuild the engine as soon as possible?

I'd like an FD, but I love how mean the FB looks. I've also found it hard to find an FD that isn't completely riced to shit

Oh I'm aware how absurd a 20B would be. I've got another car though so it doesn't really matter if it's a pig to drive haha.

>IMO i would go 13bt, best bang for buck, easy to do and plenty of power/driveability.
I'm inclined to agree, we can all dream though.

I'd rebuild it the moment you get it honestly. Think of it like two-strokes.

Depends on numerous factors, general rule of thumb is

>Over 100,000kms on factory engine - rebuild
>sitting for over 2 years - rebuild
>'yeah bro it was rebuilt by my mate in his backyard' - rebuild

I agree with you but leave twingo's alone they did nothing wrong they are a pure car

Pure