Slotted, drilled, dimpled, or blank rotors?

Says the tripfag

sorry if you can't manage a normal highway commute without cooking your brakes you just don't know how to drive

drilled rotors don't fucking do anything with modern brake pads

it's just to look cool

I got EBC yellow stuff pads and slotted/dimpled rotors on my tuck. I live in the mountains and use my truck as a truck. I also down shift and engine brake on hills but it isn't always enough.

Im not that guy, but I live in the mountains and run slotted rotors. Fuck you and your high horse you attention whoring tripfagging wanna be know it all fuck.

I run drilled and slotted brake pads.

>Miata owner

Sorry, what makes you think I give a shit what you do m8?

Yea do it, and make sure you install them backwards like the jackass in this picture

Mostly you responding or are you admitting to being retarded?

Responding to someone asking a simple question and then being a smartass?

How about having a trip code?

You're so full of yourself you think you deserve to be recognized on an anonymous board for your shitty opinions. Fuck right off m8 and move out of mommies basement

>says the guy who's argument is "but it do it too"

People are correct when they say it won't affect performance during road driving, usually. If you're gonna drive like a nut for extended periods of time maybe, but the problem with road driving is you usually aren't driving at the limit for something like an hour straight and that's when it matters.

That being said, they aren't that expensive, so I dunno why people get so hostile about it.

I'd just go slotted if it were me, but I'd do the whole brake kit. new pads, calipers ect, fluid, steel lines. I like over kill.

>There are two of us
More than one person thinks you're pathetic kiddo

>backwards

what the fuck

Yes, backwards

is this supposed to matter to me?

Nope because you just admitted to being retarded

So like all other tripfags

I think you're just struggling to follow the conversation and assuming I am too.

power to weight m80

More like i don't want to waste brain cells to even understand how retarded you are being

>I didn't want to think all along!

I've seen sources that suggest anything more than just slotted is a mechanical waste

You two fairies need to suck each other off already

Says the tripfag, who is so retarded he can't remeber what he said so he needs to use a name

If you scroll up you'll see I followed the conversation just fine, but thanks for your concern.

I've had both slotted and drilled.
Couldn't tell the difference.

Just get a good blank or slotted vented disk, preferably two piece with aluminum or mag top hats. That's the track ready ticket.

If it's a street car just get one piece vented blanks. Remember if you get vented you'll need either new calipers or caliper spacers and don't cheap out.

I've pushed non-vented rotors pretty hard and they start glowing and you can definitely feel them fade on the downhill big time even in a light car, but non vented will be fine for a car that's mostly daily driven and never pushed very hard.

Stock OE brakes on my Corolla were pieces of shit. I drive mostly on the freeway and have to stop maybe 3 or 4 times both ways and they would always warp and just not stop very well.

Replaced them with EBC slotted and EBC ceramic pads, and going on 5 years now, so far so good. Car stops a lot faster and the main thing is no more warping. Not sure if its the fact the rotors are slotted or if OE Toyota brakes are just shitty but I've been happy with them.

are you sure they were oe or were they no name chinky shit

Bought the car used from a lady who had everything done at the local Toyota stealership so I figured they were OE. But who the fuck knows - those assholes could have put on 9.99 vatozone specials and charged her top dollar.

Just get blanks. There is literally no benefit to running slotted/drilled rotors any more. They only exist because they old motorsports pad materials would release gases between the rotor and the pad causing braking to lose effectiveness and slotting and drilling helped give space for these gasses to evacuate to. Modern brake pad compounds do not release these gasses so the slotted/drilled rotors aren't required any more but people like how they look so they are still made.

As mentioned, just get vented rotors, that is all that is needed now.

Just get vented. If they are good enough to stop my truck pulling 30k lbs they are good enough for whatever shitbox you have

>that pitiful swept area

>falling for the swept area meme

How do you even do that, I got drilled rotors and the box had in fucking IMPACT FONT and it took up 1/4 of the back of the box which side of the car it had to be installed on

Except not, shitty discs can hit over 800 Fahrenheit which in turn starts burning up the pads pretty fast, fluid is a different game all together

seriously OP get Kangaroo Paw rotors. they are the best in every way.

My rotors are normally blank ones, but i've both drilled and slotted them myself, that way i can have good looking brakes without spending a fortune.

Vented blank master race

if your brakes are hitting 800F and your pads and fluid can't deal with it a few holes won't make much difference - unless they're in the front bumper ducting air to your calipers

>Real Talk Here
Slotted rotors are shit
Drilled rotors are legit, (1) they save weight, (2) they allow air to get drawn through into the inner vent and be channeled out of the rotor. The holes also increase the surface area for cooling despite any air being drawn into the center ventilation slots. The top tier rotors are those with non symmetric drilled holes which fully wipe the rotor, but this is only seen on super expensive cars.

There is a reason expensive cars have drilled ventilated rotors on all four corners.

>inb4 drilled is a meme
Why do sportbikes all have them then?

REGARDLESS, PADS NOR ROTORS WILL MAKE YOU BRAKE FASTER. TIRES RETARD, TIRES.

>getting anything but vented blank rotors
literally why tho

6k RPM 4th gear? WTF

This

I can see that regular cars with regular drivers don't neccisarily need drilled rotors, but at the same time I see no disadvantage to having the drills and slots that everyone is so mad about

ie: it really doesn't matter, but if someone wants drilled rotors, that's their call

"Doing 75"
Assuming it's miles per hour, 6 doesn't seem that unreasonable depending on what he's driving

Just look at what top end rotors on GT3 cars are like: yep, slotted.

While we are on the subject, I have a question.

I have a 03 Honda Civic Ex and ive been having this problem. My car keeps making this griding noise like something a metal is grinding on the ground, but it wasnt that. So me being careless paid no mind to it cause it only makes it when i brake.

Then the weirdest thing happened when i was in a traffic light. I heard a sorta clank noise like chains being released and i couldnt brake like how i normally would. I can drive, but if i go a certain speed it will be hard for me to stop unless i press it down hard (not all the way to the floor)

So the question is, is it both the rotor and brake pads or just the brakes? Also where to find the cheapest parts if it is something serious indeed?

Drilled is used on sportbike because the unsprung weight savings are proportionally hugely greater than on a car. You're getting there, but still need to do more research.

It weakens the rotor. And having drilled + slotted is just fucking retarded.

I said shitty discs, kind the shit that is 230mm, discs that are 330mm+ are great at dissipation, ventilated ones more so. The point of vent discs are not that they cool down faster it's that their max heat rating is cooler so you get consistent breaking pressure without fade

Are you fucking with us?

Always wondered why cars dont run waved rotors?

Sportbikes are very different animals clearly, but some basics should transfer.

Weight matters despite the vehicle, and drilled ventilated rotors will always cool superior to solid ventilated rotors. Simple surface area.

What would eve be the point?

Nope serious. Im new to this car shit so im trying to learn more about it.

Or running the brake disks along the rim with the caliper on the inside of the radius like Buells?

idk the answer to that.

do any bikes run ventilated rotors? I assume that is why waved rotors are used?

Wave rotors shed water and dirt better, whilst increasing surface area (cooling/braking) without taking on much of a penalty for weight.

Google. How the fuck would anyone know what's wrong with your car after that vague ass statement. Did you get under it and make sure everything is tight? Have you checked your pads?

Get under it and do what

Vented as in slotted, or drilled or with the little rotors between the two sides?

Motorcycle brakes come in virtually every single config you could imagine.

Are your calipers missing a bolt? Are you low on brake fluid? Did you pop a brake line off?

It was nothing under that made it do that. My passanger side is small pad, but my driver side is on the rotor disc i believe.

Bike rotors are usually very thin. Car rotors are far more massive and generally vented up front at least.

Ventilated means "little rotors between the two sides" so two friction faces. Maybe big bikes have those?
God tier design btw. Patented tho, and no mfg will admit buell had a good idea

So your rotor is fucked up then..

I think. Didnt do like op pic did, but it has lines on it like a xbox disc or one of those old big ass cd's.

Im just confused that after that clank sound the grinding sound disappeared afterwards.

I have seen them on goldwings, but like I dont think they're necessary on bikes really. Consider the amount of airflow a bike's disk gets.

MotoGP brakes, the F1 of motorcycles basically. No slots, no drilled holes, no lobes. Granted they are also MotoGP brakes.

So on the third day of the seventh year of the sixth hour, thirty nine innocent children are sacrificed whilst a cat meows in a westerly direction with a butter knife stolen from a Denny's no more than nine minutes prior. Now if the cat is meowing in an eastern direction, we don't get MotoGP brake disks we get a vintage RC-30.

Your caliper is probably fucked as well.

ceramic composite brake disk porn

I bet there's only like 1 person on this board with non-oem vented discs.

That bike is using carbon-carbon brakes. Totally different animal. Those brakes have to be hot to work well.

FWIW, my 1988 Honda HawkGT had a vented rear rotor. The vents were tiny.

lol. I'm pretty sure the motogp brake discs are also ceramic or carbon fiber where drilled holes would be a structural issue.

For cars they are pretty legit. If your brakes OEM aren't drilled and/or you aren't buying a bbk i wouldn't waste your time unless you like the looks.
hnnng
my car has non-oem vented and drilled, but oem was the same?

Losing structural rigidity for a 3% unsprung weight saving makes more sense than losing it for a 0.03% unsprung weight saving. Keep researching and lose the attitude or you'll never learn.

Neither pads or rotors would cause what you describe, you have a more serious issue. Probably fucked your caliper piston somehow. Check your brake fluid, check if all four of your brakes work. Check if brake fluid is leaking anywhere. And next time your car sounds weird, ffs get it looked at instead of being a retard about it.

What's that cable that looks like it's rubbing on the pad?

They're the cheapest option though, so I bet there are plenty.

speedo, its not hooked up yet. It senses the magnetic flash of the rotor's spars.

>Losing structural rigidity for a 3% unsprung weight saving makes more sense than losing it for a 0.03% unsprung weight saving.
There is no structural rigidity issue with metallic rotors. They never, ever, crack like that. Besides, if they were at such high heat levels they were stress cracking then drilling holes would be a net benefit as it would contain the structural failure between two points versus a catastrophic break. This is why certain chassis in specific structures are drilled, simply to contain failures such as these.
>Keep researching and lose the attitude or you'll never learn.
I'm educated in at least the basics of this field. I'm down for technical conversation but don't pretend to be a condescending authority without citations. Obviously drilled and ventilated metallic rotors work. Please, show me one that failed with a crack that *wasn't* between wto purposefully created high stress concentration points.

>hour straight
Fuck off, try 5 minutes of downhill driving with pathetic stock rotor and pad compounds.

Glorious slotted master race at all times.

GEAR DOWN YOU RETARDED FAGGOT holy shit I didn't think people this dumb were allowed.

And i didn't think there was anybody so fucking stupid they don't understand what the downhill run is

Slots are a meme and (imo) don't do shit, but he is talking about brake fade. AKA, shitty pad material, small pads and rotors, solid rotors, and poor cooling channels.

You're full of shit. Vented blanks simply do not crack short of manufacturing errors, drilled has always been known to crack. Blanks that are then drilled are even worse, it's nothing to do with containing a failure, by drilling you are introducing the failure. The correct way to deal with excessive heat causing brake fade is to introduce more air or increase the diameter of the discs, not to start drilling and cutting like a fucking amateur. The only time it is for performance and not looks is on sportbikes, when it is for the proportionally great unsprung weight savings and easily warpable (ie. Unreliable due to drilling) rotors are a price motorcyclists consciously pay and accept as needing a higher level of knowledge to safely operate a motorcycle. Lose the attitude, you pleb.

I get wicked fade on my slotted if I go hektik for 30 miles in the mountains.

I'm still not understanding why you can't just gear down to save your brakes. Like are you abruptly accelerating and braking on a steep downhill or what the fuck are you doing?

Well yes, but there's zero reason you should be getting brake fade under normal driving. Racing yes, but in daily driving situations, you just keep your gears low and take it easy.

Are you NOT accelerating and braking on a steep downhill?

What kind've faggot are you?

>You're full of shit.
Yeah that is why expensive cars have drilled rotors. Sure fag.
>drilled has always been known to crack.
Sauce
>by drilling you are introducing the failure
You're increasing cooling and containing any would be cracks
>he correct way to deal with excessive heat causing brake fade is to introduce more air
Like by drilling?
>he only time it is for performance and not looks is on sportbikes
Works pretty great on sportcars and supercars fag
>Lose the attitude, you pleb.
Likewise. I'm not saying but drilled rotors on your shitbox you obviously drive, I'm saying cars that come with them stock obviously work.

Now please, show me ferraris with cracked rotors that *aren't* between two hole you fool.
>Well yes, but there's zero reason you should be getting brake fade under normal driving.
lol. some of us like spirited driving
>Racing yes, but in daily driving situations, you just keep your gears low and take it easy.
If your DD fades on your way to work buy a better car.

You sir, sound like a faggot

No. I coast down the hill in a gear appropriate to the speed of traffic. Most hills I don't touch any pedals at all.