Post your ride

Cause it's gonna look fucked dude :^]

2ez B)

The banter finally got to him, he's not stance fagging

Doggo is half the reason I don't have time for the truck. Trying to train her to go on rides on the motorcycle with me now.
>other rig needs to be tipped up to power wash the shit from moab off it.
Damn thing needs the other axle carrier seal now too

Oil catch can should really be your number 2 thing to do

9/10 would drive, but wouldn't buy (19k in Cad still!)
7.5/10 Because Big Block
2/10 Meme in Action
1/10 At least the other fag had a roll cage
9/10 or hell 10/10 if you can provide a dyno graph.

I said coilovers?

Nah you're not gonna ruin a Mercedes for shits and giggles because when it comes time to sell and it goes on a hoist you know people are willing to walk away from an abused one with rolled fenders and a damaged subframe

What the fuck, it's like walking into a cave

and here we go

The mud was ridiculous, this was just leaving our campsite.
I think it's what killed the axle seal since there's tons of grit and rocks in it too

did your boyfriend buy this for you?

>F Sport exhaust
>RSR downs springs

whoa, calling a miata owner gay. must've spent all night coming up with that one.

I'm really not bothered by it. Doing it for me not for resale. I don't mind sitting on something/parting out.

Well right now it's stock aside from e63 wheels and lowering links but once I get it modified I'll put it on a dyno

Either a Mazda BP or a Honda K24 haven't decided yet.

>Either a Mazda BP or a Honda K24

K series please.

XDXDXD Le funny maymay friend, 10/10, sure got me.

It would be awesome but it would cost so much more lol, BP literally drops in with the same bolt pattern and everything.
But man that k would be so sick.

Is that why you're Lexus isn't sold yet because you did it for you

Hmm since BP swaps in so easily you may be able to look into using the k series swap kits that miatas have?

400goyim would do that in a Ferrari 250 gto he's that much of a tasteless retard lol

Damn that's a pretty good idea, stock trans is pretty weak on these tho since it's a 60hp motor lmao.
desu should just grab the engine and trans out of an accord and slap it in there.

Is that an old schook fiesta? I'd put a BP engine and trans from a protégé. Keep it FoMoCo and affordable. I think you'd pretty much double your power. Get a MazdaSpeed Protégé of you really wanna go nuts.

I was thinking of doing an oil catchcan along with the rear motor mount and balance shaft delete. Just hard to figure which company to go with. I hear good things from JBR for RMM/BSD and DM for OCC.

I honestly haven't heard much about the internals before now. Just looked into it. Yikes. Looks like I'll do the COBB AP and internals together.

I already have an AEM panel filter installed that was lying around from another car. I'll see how I feel about it before I get an actual SRI.

2016 VW golf 1.8t 5-speed
Plans:
>wheels and tyres
>APR stage 1 tune
>Forge bov
>trans and motor mount inserts
>turbo back 3" exhaust
>possibly coil overs
>maybe CAI

Already:
>K&N drop-in filter
>Rokblokz mud flaps

>maybe CAI

Intakes are great upgrades for turbo cars, should do this with the tune and exhaust.

It's because I haven't listed it for sale?

This 2bh famiglia

>Clutch
>Light Flywheel (no more DM)
>Brake Pads
>Brake Rotors
>Spark Plug Wires (Massive Wires with MSD coilpack)
>Ford Racing Factory Suspension kit (it's what's on the car, but just replaced out of age)
>Rest of front suspension
>FSWerks full Exhaust
>CFM ORP and cheater
>Motor and Trans mount FSWerks
>H&R 15MM Wheel spacers
>Steel brake and clutch lines
>Battery relocation(Moved to front right under bumper
>Coolant res delete(Mazda all-in one rad)

Things that don't matter all that much
>Momo Wheel
>Recaro factory seats (If not just a set I like)
>New front lip
>Split exhaust
>OZ Superturismo white
>West Wings WRC Wing (If I ever feel like going full rice)

Tdi, dsg
Already done
>neuspeed turbo discharge pipe for dat turbo sound (cold side)
>ordered boost guage on its way!
Plans
>clear corner lights
>gti style rear diffuser

The internals are a must, for sure. Autotech is the go-to and what I had. Not a bad install with the guides online (be sure to be careful removing the vacuum tubing and not break the stock boost controller like I did. not a big deal, but a pain in the ass)

I loved my stuff from JBR and I never had one but people really like the DM catch can.

The community around this platform is probably the best I've ever been a part of, and it is one of the biggest things I miss after selling the car. A lot of people get rubbed the wrong way because it isn't an accepting group if you don't play by "their rules." Granted, they can be serious assholes, but everyone is sometimes. Do a little research on the car to show you're serious and they welcome you with open arms. People open up their homes, share tools, help you wrench, and even offer up parts they aren't using to help you out. See if there is a NATOR group in your area if you want to talk mazdaspeeds.

got most parts for free/cheap so can't complain

have
>cobb catback
>JBR 3" intake
>breedt short shift arm
>CJP adjustable throttle spacer (muh heeltoes)

what I really need
>Cobb accessport v3
>upgraded RMM

what I want
>mountune RS-R brake pads + rotors idk which
>rear sway bar/endlinks
>new tires (idk maybe hankook evo v12s/nobles or other similarly priced)
>different intake
>new shifter knob (I've been using the stock one like a pleb)
>wing risers
>oil catch can
>mudflaps
>sound symposer delete

way down the line
>dedicated 17" wheels + sticky tires
>maybe lowering

anyways I'll probably be doing an autox before I get the AP, then I'l do another after I get AP + brake pads to feel the difference.

>dpf delete
>egr delete
>remap to 105hp/250Nm to lay some coal on honda bois
>Eibach 30mm lowering springs
>16'' wheels in the future

>most of thread are hot hatches

"Mods are in the signature"

"Forever slow"

"Is that my oil pan behind me"

2006 Volvo S60 T5
Done: IPD sport Springs & HD shocks, HD Coils, HID kit, skit plate, TCV / Gage for turbo, removed sound barrier on the the hood for those sw33t wastegate noises.

To-do: IPD or Esport turbo back exhaust kit, bigger brakes, possibly new wheels or paint wheels because current ones are scraped up around the edges.

Also forgot I want a snabb intake too

Beast mode activated
>dat 10x10 awd

current: >2.5 inch Lukey exhaust system(au)
>eonon D5151Z Head unit
planned:
> cosworth intake manifold or mps intake
> mps turbo
> coilovers
>some decent looking 17" rims
> 3" corksport exhaust
>corksport SRI

>driving in the mud in Utah
Those ruts are gonna be there for years. Thanks for fucking my my state, asshole.

Done
>HPS SRI w/ modded heatshield and stock airbox funnel
>Eibach Pro KIT Springs
>Koni Yellow struts/shocks
>18" KR19 w/ Falken FP7000's
>Interior White LED bulb swap
>Ungraded speakers to Kicker CS684 6x8 on all 4 doors
>OEM LED tail lights
>OEM Xenon Headlights with 6000k replacement

To do list:
>Exhaust - up to 2.5", 2nd cat delete, high flow res., single muffer w/ dual 3" outlet muffler (like that style)
>Tune
Should be pushing ~200hp/200tq to the wheels after that.

May go header after that or may leave it.

That will put it in a comfortable spot for me.

(only pic I have bc new phone)

>The community around this platform is probably the best I've ever been a part of
>A lot of people get rubbed the wrong way because it isn't an accepting group if you don't play by "their rules." Granted, they can be serious assholes

???

>10x10
It's 6x6 you faggot.

Yeah, but both rear axles are dually.
That means there are 10 tires and all of them have power going to them.

Does that really not count as 10 wheel drive?

Race me, cunt!

No, it doesn't.

Curb weight?

By your retarded logic, this is a 4x4.

No, thats a 4x6

There are 6 wheels. 4 wheels are powered and 2 are not.

Same reason some two-wheel drive trucks have a "2x4" badge on them...

Think about this for a second. Ten-wheel-drive. That means 10 wheels are "driving" the vehicle, and are receiving power from the engine. If a vehicle has 10 wheels and all of them are powered by the engine, it would be completely illogical to call it a 6x6. The first number is how many wheels are powered, followed by the number of wheels present on the vehicle. A two-wheel drive truck is a 2x4 and a four-wheel drive truck is a 4x4.

You don't call a 2-wheel drive truck a 2x2 do you? Because by your retarded logic with that dually truck example, you would.

The fact you actually believe this and wrote it out shows you have autism.

There is no such thing as a 2x4 outside of image related.

I bet you also think if you put 50 wheels on the back single axle it's a 2x50.

That dualing is rwd, No one says 2x2, Because it's FWD or RWD. You illiterate faggot

Wheel/Tires (VRM V710s)
Stromung Exhaust
E36/46 M3 mate

It's a 4x2 you fucking retards
Four wheels, two driven. Dear lord

Oh also maybe FCAB, RCAB, engine/tranny mounts, rear diff bushings, and a SSK...but we'll see

In the short term I really need to find a way to hardwire a radar detector

Planned:
>Kouki Tails
>New Hatch
>Manual Swap
>K&N Drop in Filter
>Works Bell Hub, and Quick Release
>Nardi Wheel
>Brown to black interior swap
>Coilovers
>Brake upgrades

My mistake for calling it 2x4, I meant 4x2 as in pic related.

That being said, whats your counterargument? Simply calling me autistic doesn't make me wrong.
A 4x4 is a vehicle with four wheels in which all four are powered. Aa 6x6 is a vehicle with six wheels, all of which are powered. Why should a vehicle with 10 wheels, all of which are powered, be called a 6x6?
No one is claiming that a 2wd truck should be called 2x2. Its pretty fucking ironic that someone like yourself who shows complete lack of reading comprehension and can't even into basic sentence structure is calling someone else illiterate...
Try again you fuckwit.

For starters, I need to take some decent pictures after switching to alloy wheels with my actual camera.

I'm planning to repaint the sideskirts black again and I'll probably do it some time next week.
I already bought wax and polish too, waiting for an opportunity to fix the paint a little bit. Fuck not having a garage, I would have had it done already.

I'm thinking of spacers for the rear wheels but that's a bit more far off.

Overall I'm trying to keep her as stock as possible. Maybe I'll get a swap done in the future but that's all when it comes to the bigger mods.

>He thinks a truck with 2 wheels up front and 4 wheels in back and is awd is a 6x6

That isn't how this works faggot.

Once again, where is your proof?

The word "faggot" is not a legitimate counterargument.

Since you seem to know "how it works" why don't you enlighten me. Faggot.

>He says it's called a XxX
>He provides no proof
>asks proof that it is anything else
That's not how this works you nigger, when you state something you have to provide the evidence, not ask for someone to disprove it.

Unless you are some faggot ass christian.

Ok then, let me attempt to spell this out nice and clear for your dumbass. Ill walk you through it nice and slow here:

A vehicle with four wheels, in which only two are powered, is called a "4x2"

This is because there are four wheels total, and two are receiving power from the engine

A vehicle with four wheels, in which all four receive power, is called a 4x4

Following this same logic, a vehicle with six wheels, in which only two are powered, would be called a 6x2

Following this SAME EXACT LOGIC a vehicle with ten wheels, in which all ten wheels are being driven by the engine, would be called a 10x10

Are you starting to see a pattern here?

(number of wheels total)x(number of wheels being driven)

>Muh explanation
>doesn't provide a source
>doesn't provide a link
Did you know the moon is made out of cheese, because it's 1905

Maybe this will clarify things a little for you.

See the picture here?
See how the vehicle has 6 wheels?
See how only 4 are powered by the engine?
See the giant 6x4 logo on the side?
Is it starting to make sense yet?

Pure logic needs no "evidence proof" because anyone and everyone with an IQ of 40+ can come to this same conclusion

If you still have no counterargument, feel free to stop responding to my posts anytime

should prolly get koni yellows with the springs. take it from a ricer that learned the hard way..

Eat hondurrs for lunch. Currently removing the old busted radiator.

Just need to replace some bushings in the back and I should be good for a while.

Then after 200-220k mi. and after I get a another car, complete top and bottom end overhaul plus all the supporting mods, then blow it up on the dino :)

Also remember to replace your cabin air filter, anons.

Kinda wanna stick a black smellytree in here... For science...

1400kg, 4 door rwd NA 4.0 i6

Id get smashed. But I'm a man, let's togay fgt

I'll wrap it around a tree

Here's my carbage. Currently it has
>too many mods to list
and I'm pretty happy with where it is from a performance standpoint because it is rally quite quick and handles great. It would take a better driver than me to push it to the limit on autocross or at a track day so I'd like to focus on improving my driving skills.

My short term plans are pretty much just a steering rack upgrade and a new MAP sensor so I can boost to 20psi+. Long term I want to build a turbo 2.8L stroker M20 and swap that in and switch to a 2.93 rear end.

Yeah, but you'd go out like a legend. Bonus points for fire. I'll hang your charred car emblem from my rear view as tribute.

1) Cobb AccessPort
2) High-presure fuel pump internals (AutoTech)
3) Motor mounts, rear only if on a budget (Damond Motorsports)

anything from there is where you want to go. I personally had Sonic Tuning coilovers from H&R and I loved them. Most people go with BC BRs and KW V3s if you have $1800 for coilovers. NEVER TOUCH STREETUNIT OR SURE MOTORSPORTS. Shit will fuck up. Sign up for Mazdaspeedforums as a VIP member, it's worth it. Don't go WOT in 5th or 6th unless you're built, easiest way to blow up a motor (from experience)
CX Racing has a cheap FMIC kit with decent piping just a shitty core, CorkSport has a good FMIC and so does CP-E and Treadstone. Both kind of expensive, though.
Mudflaps make your shit look wider
Rear sway bar (Hotchkis) set to the stiffer, "oh fuck" setting increases stability ten-fold.
I miss my car like a deceased child
Take care of that MS3, user.

Have to replace the front ventilation flap, the water leaks in heavy rain, not much but still enough to be annoying or maybe damage the radio.
Have to replace rubber on drivers door to prevent eventual leaks.
Have to add fuel filter.

Already cleaned the insides and removed rust/repainted what needed to be done and insulated almost everything to make it water/rust proof. Organized the trunk and made a board that lays on spare wheel and other tools so they won't get dirty, also enclosed the trunk from the backseat with sky-leather so people can't see what I'm carrying in the back ( usually 10L gas canister, but still)

> Don't go WOT in 5th or 6th unless you're built, easiest way to blow up a motor
Wow, weak

Just saying.

Didn't realize mazdaspeed 3 engines were so weakshit

That, and the factory turbo seals are ass. Mine took a shit, too. The only thing left to go was the transmission so I dumped it.

After I install the turboback exhaust I have in sitting in my room I'll have full bolt ons and sitting at ~270ish whp. Only cosmetic shit from there because it starts getting REALLY expensive to go fast.

Hop on that GTX3076 train. It's a fun one. Or a BNR S4.

Unless I can get one used that costs more money than what Iv put into it so far. I do want a bigger turbo because all the low end torque in this car is not very fun. Any amount of throttle before 3rd gear and even right at 2.5k rpm in third I'm just getting no traction.

>tfw you want to pass a slow accelerating truck after a stop light
>do a burnout like an asshole the whole way through and end up passing him slow as fuck anyway

>Hop on that GTX3076 train
Why? So he can have a laggy race me from a roll bruh hatchback?

Join Mazdaspeed new/used parts on facebook, GTXs come up all the time. Same with BNR turbos. Could do a GTX2867r, too.

>want to merge into traffic quickly from an intersection
>nothing but REEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

Id prefer a laggy race me from a roll hatchback to this

So many plans, but nothing will happen until the Mustang is paid off.
For the Wrangler- Basically it's got a blown up carrier in the rear diff that needs replaced. Other than that I've already built it up the way I want it, I just need to get it running to use as a bad weather/winter vehicle.

For the Harley - I want a bunch of Roland Sands aesthetic parts, either V&H Short Shots or Bassani Sweeper exhaust and a Hammer Performance 100 hp 1250 engine kit.

For the Mustang - Can we just not talk about how much I could fantasize about spending on that right now?

>not wanting that turbo whistle and instant torque

I just explained the downsides of that "instant" torque. It's too much all at once.