Clutch thread?

Clutch thread?

I'm just shy of 80,000 miles on my shit box and I've noticed when I'm switching gears sometimes it almost "pops out." Is that a sign I'm due for a new one?

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221k on the original clutch in my dad's Ranger. Unless it was replaced by 45k miles by the previous owner.

Really depends on the car, but popping it might be more of a syncro issue

It could be that you're not actually fully engaging the gear.
Could be shotty linkages.

sounds more gearbox related m8

I don't think the clutch itself can cause the transmission to pop out of gear.

Has the bite point of your clutch changed lately, I would think the more clutch material you wear away, the higher the bite point would be in the pedal.

I'm going with worn linkage.

Not a clutch wear issue. Although it could be badly adjusted. On an unrelated note, I just did a clutch on my shitbox at 120k and I found a exedy clutch in it with rubber instead of springs, all my searching turned up nothing about what kind of exedy clutch it is, is it possible the factory clutch was an exedy? Ford fusion btw, see pic related.

As far as I know it shouldn't, it should all adjust automatically, but the bite point can be changed slightly with the nut on the top of the pedal I think

It hasn't changed but the bite point takes a lot of travel actually. I believe its always been like that. Could it need a bleed?

How much resistance does it give you when trying to shift to first from a stop? Maybe you're not disengaging the clutch all the way because there is air in the line, or the pedal isn't adjusted properly.

If you put the car in first gear with the pedal clutch pedal down as far as it'll go, how far can you raise the pedal before the car starts to move?

I just went out there... I'm shit for estimating but I would say it takes considerably more travel to engage going down and less coming up fully depressed

I would bleed the clutch, and adjust the pedal if that doesn't raise it. I think my car engages the clutch about 3 inches off the floor.

If that doesn't solve your issue, I'd suspect shift linkage or gearbox issues.

Thanks brother. It was definitely less than three inches, I'd say an inch.

every mitsu clutch I've ever seen is exedy/daikin clutch producted.

That's a good sign. I was a bit surprised that it would be on its second clutch at 120k, but if that's the stock clutch that's not too shabby considering 5+ people learned how to drive manual on this car.

I've got ~127k on my G35, bought it with 96k and its on its original clutch.

engages RIGHT at the top of the pedal and if you get the clutch really hot (stop and go traffic) it shudders like a bitch on engagement.

I've been to the track twice and I drive like an asshole, Im frankly surprised my clutch isn't slipping yet.

on the other end of the spectrum though, had an evo show up with like 3k miles and customer said the clutch was slipping. turns out the kid SMOKED the clutch down to the backing plate. Yeah, that's not covered under warranty. Flywheel was totally blue.

I put all this gay fancy crap on the back of my engine.

I barely notices an increase in throttle response, and the disc is way too smushey which made the engagement stroke too long.

gad dangit

I thought solid hub clutches (with single mass flywheels) are on-off buttons?

I drove an evo with a twin plate set up years ago, shit was retarded to drive it into a shop

The metallic style discs are because they are solid.
This one is bonded organic and still has the marcel spring backing which makes the disc squishy.

My last disc was an organic with practically zero squishy backing and I loved it.

It engages right at the top?

Those cars are hydraulic clutch, right? If not I'd be worried that it's out of adjustment and may not be releasing fully.

so its like a big woven spring, commonly found in automatic transmissions? INTERESTING!

I'm not sure what you mean by woven, but here's a video about it that I just found
youtube.com/watch?v=I2-UXYu5l1Q

Pedal sank to the floor a month after I bought it one day coming off the highway. super common on G/Z's because how close the clutch salve line is really close to the driver's side exhaust manifold. Spiritied driving + older clutch fluid = boiling. Add that to a non-returning clutch pedal and you have a very odd situation where the pedal sinks and wont return.

Anyway I have recent fluid, a SS clutch line and a new slave cylinder. I'm assuming its just near the end of its useable life. Clutch still grabs so I still drive everywhere I gotta go.

Bleeding will not help with a pop out situation

why did you think a different clutch would increase throttle response?

What does it mean if I have a clutch that rattles in neutral and engaged (disengaged/pushed in, rattle goes away)?

That's what lighter flywheels are supposed to do

That sucks.
But since it's hydraulic then it should adjust itself because once the pedal comes to the top it would release all pressure on the clutch.

Likely throwout bearing

Could be the gears in your trans making noise.
Try a heavier gear lube if it really bothers you.

I have a similar issue after I put a new clutch, sounds like a chirping noise. Goes away when I press the clutch. Gonna ignore it and assume its nothing serious.

>I'm switching gears sometimes it almost "pops out.

That's the sign of reliability in manual transmissions

Mine's also new.

The fuck is going on brehs

Throwout bearing is going out.
You should have replaced it while you were in there doing the new clutch

Unsprung clutches will cause gearbox chatter but it's clutch material, not hub type, that changes engagement

did you machine your flywheel?

2000 corolla, 203,000 miles on the stock clutch.
shit gonna break any day now.