Sound Proofing Car

What is the best material for sound proofing against drone and road noise?

Loud music and/or a better sounding engine?

protip, it's a lot better to soundproof as close to the source of noise as possible, so do the outside of the car first
undercarriage and the exhaust itself

Yeah makes sense, what material would you recommend?

dynamat or something

rubberised bitumen works well
on the exhaust you use heavy magnets to suss out the harmonics then weld on weights
kinda like balancing a wheel.
sometimes an extra hanger or two helps too

>What is the best material for sound proofing against drone and road noise?

3M makes a very thin soundproofing material that is basically a thick foil sheet of soft metal with thick adhesive. It seems to be much improved over the old 1970's technology of rubberized bitumen sheets (dynamat). But certainly dynamat is much cheaper and easily available. 3M sent samples to me and it is quite impressive. You don't have to cover the whole surface like with Dynamat in order to get detectable improvement. It is almost like it sucks in audible vibrations from the nearby metal on which it is stuck to. A 3x5 sheet of steel rings loudly if struck, but if a one inch by 2 inch sample strip is put on the back, that sheet makes a dull soft thump when struck.

The places where the cabin box receives road noise from the wheel suspension structure seems a likely area to start with 2552. I wonder if 2552 was named that way to be easy to remember. At least they didn't name it Damping Foil 1337. That would be over the top. Anyways, I am quite pleased with this product. Dynamat never seemed to reduce the noise that much in my previous car. If only taking the car apart to install sound deadener didn't take so long. I was afraid to break things because there are so many connectors to everything (even to the seats).

Google it: 3M Damping Foil 2552

>What is the best material for sound proofing against drone and road noise?
The fat and organs of liberals.

Why the fuck would you want to take away one of your senses while driving? Being able to hear saved my ass once and my engine another time.

>bought a tin of sound deadening tar or whatever it is
>go through 6 paintbrushes applying it to the underside
>learn later on you're supposed to lather it on with a Trowel

>Being able to hear saved my ass once
Word, I heard a homo wandering up behind me, so I was able to turn around. His dick ended up hitting my balls, but that is better than his foot long going into this user.

you don't need to cover everything in dynamat either. you use the foam for that.
doing it like op's pic is dumb too. curved areas don't flex like flat ones. you only need to do the centre of a flat panel to stop it vibrating
then you add jute and foam etc on top liberally

you heat it up first yeah?

Nah you just apply it as is.

you must have got some weak ass shit bruh

Can't even remember the brand or type but it had no instructions to heat it up. It actually worked very well. Stained clothes like a motherfucker though so OP better wear his shittiest clothes if he does it.

... my shits are weak

I'll say something about the product. Before you think that you'll avoid the price and take a similarly thick piece of annealed aluminum foil and mastic to stick it on the car surfaces, I've held the product in my hands before attachment. This 3M aluminum is weird. It is quite sound dead and soft compared to regular Al. So if you have a supply of thin Al shets like that, buy it. Otherwise you'll not be able to duplicate this deadening effect. It's RoHS compliant so it shouldn't have lead mixed into it. Whatever 3M did to this metal, it is effective. The 3M adhesive is also very strong and holds the metal tautly and tightly. I believe this very firm _contiguous_ adhering is the actual real secret in why it deadens sound so well. If the microvibrations aren't transmitted to the Al material thru the adhesive, then it won't deaden that much. In that respect, the dynamat adhere's but not tight and taut like this 2552 metal tape.

2552 really quieted my doors down. I can run the stereo loudly and people outside don't hear it anywhere as loud as it was before.

That aluminum tape must be alloyed with gold, platinum, and my little pony unicorn horn to cost so much. 3M must be laughing all the way to the bank.

Look up LizardSkin, it's a spray on sound insulation. They sell there kits with sprayer and everything.

As long as Lizardsckin isn't more of that spray cyanoacrylate foam used in houses to fill in cracks and gaps. Cyanoacrylate sprays on like a thick liquid and then foams up to fill in air gaps. But it is messy and hard to clean up once sprayed on. Since foam is very lightweight, it wouldn't absorb much vibration energy from whatever surface it was sprayed upon. All it would do is block some sound that was transmitted thru airwaves, but any vibration would still travel thru the metal and make the cabin walls vibrate. From having a house built and seeing the cyanoacrylate foam in action, I cannot conceive of it being used in an auto. It would simply get in the way of everything.

>more expensive than a slab of roof
>HURR MUST BE MADE OF GOLD NOT WORTH MY MONEY

Despite its expense, 2552 is effective and works in wet or moist environments such as doors. It won't isn't a porous substrate that mold and bacteria can grow within. It's also thin so it doesn't need a lot of clearance and won't add any real thickness to floorboards.

I switched over to summer tires and that's the biggest source of road noise for me at the moment.

The higher speed-rated tires also give more road noise. So those people who get the highest speed tires for their low speed tire using the reason of "more is better" are only increasing their road noise.

How would you start soundproofing a Lancer from road noise? they can be a little noisy in the cabin.