/ccg/ Classic Car General

Your car is on the c body platform. I'm sure there's infinite resources for it. How's driving it in Germany? Here's one resource

forcbodiesonly.com/mopar-forum/

nice, thats something to start with.

germany is a small country. so are the streets and other cars. its sometimes hard to get some corners in the city and you dont even need to get the idea of finding space to park you car. otherwise its nice because its a rare car here and you get many good response from other people

The Plymouth is easily at the top of my list, nothing beats a nice pair of fins. i'm just surprised it's not going for more money, even though it is a four door.

that's what i told him

>houston.craigslist.org/cto/5565811956.html

I'm still tempted as fuck, even if I would be going from an economical small sports car to a giant gas hog SUV with a much worse parts situation.

Because it's not even a Fury. It's a Savoy. Base model Plymouth.

Can someone identify what year these firechickens are?

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Grey one is a 76. I think that's the only year they had that bumper. The white one looks to be a 74 or 75

Couldn't find the VIN on either one

Thanks

I prefer not so much fin

>tfw in 15 years I will have a classic car
>in 35 years a car from the 1940's will be an antique car

One website to rule them all. I have yet to find a more comprehensive source for Mopars anywhere and neither GM or Ford has anything comparable that is centralized.

Allpar.com

'53 Buick; the engine is a lot of fun and having recently had the brakes done will save you a considerable amount.

It's a base 6-cyl 4-door automatic that appears to be without power steering; it's so slow that all it'll do is leisurely putt about; not bad if that's your thing. The price is very fair.

Could I hire you to inspect this car?

ebay.com/itm/Chrysler-Imperial-LeBaron-/231932836210?forcerrptr=true&hash=item3600463972:g:-PkAAOSw2GlXKWp2&item=231932836210

Forgot my trip...

To each there own of course.

As long as leisurely putt about is quick enough to keep up with other cars on the highway, I will be good.

If it wasn't in Jersey I would do it tomorrow. Like if it was on Long Island I would have no issue at all. It's just that I am unsure on when I can dedicate the time to go out to Jersey. My schedule is a little hectic for the next week or two.

Hey guys,

Couple questions. So my car is currently running and now driving. I have only driven 10 feet on my driveway back and forth as a feeler. Tires are dry rotted so I will need to replace those too. Car seems to stall after a minute or idling, or sometimes, just randomly. Is that normal in a classic car or does that need to get tuned out?

Also, I have drums on all 4 wheels and it does not want to stop. The brake pedal feels firm, but I press it to the floor and at 5 mph, it will still continue to roll for 5 more feet. It doesn't brake hard like a regular car. Is that normal?

I want to rebuild the brakes completely and flush them. I checked the brake drums and pretty much all of them had cracks and one had a deep deep gouge.

Can you guys give me an opinion on this shopping cart list? $60 bucks in shipping seems way steep for me, but autozone and pepboys carry cheap brands I think. Unless if I can find it at a Chevy dealership? Or special order it from a small mom and pop place that might be able to get it for me. Is there anything I'm missing for a complete rebuild?

I know some of you guys might say at this price I should probably just go disc brakes.

The stalling could be a multitude of issues and we need more background.

The 4 wheel drum brakes likely need adjusted out or you have collapsed hoses. Drums are also just good enough on most classics, but no more. Look at scarebird kits for a disk conversion.

Rockauto is usually the cheapest even with the shipping unless you have a friend that works at a shop with a corporate account.

And you don't need 4 sets of brake shoes man. 1 per axle is fine.

Whoops, didn't notice that announcement.

I posted a video here for reference. Although the webm got cut right before it stalls out.
It also has this weird knock coming from under the valve covers after shut off. Is this something to worry about?

That ticking is just metal expanding/contracting when it's hot, nothing to worry about.
As for the stall, check for vacuum leaks. Is the carb rebuilt? if not, rebuild it with a new kit. Is the choke shutting off to early or is it warm enough where you are that you don't need to worry about a choke?

Ditch the drum setup.
I've converted multiple classics to disks, the difference makes me wonder how drums were even legal.
You can go aftermarket, but if you're on a budget- you can swap parts from a slightly newer Chevy or from a '68 that had the option.
You'll also have to convert the master cylinder but that's a simple procedure.
Seriously- at least do the front. Safety is #1 priority.

Brand new carb from Summit with electric choke. Although I live in Sunny California, so no problems with it being too cold.

I haven't even looked at the timing yet, so I think that may be an issue as well. I haven't even adjusted the carb jets either. Still learning with these older engines.

I might have to call my mechanic over to have a look at it.

page 8 bump

It's 27 and looks pretty incredible imo.

Why are engine builds so expensive

Got a few things done this weekend, still have a lot to do though

>1956 Chevy Bel Air
Finished the brakes and solved my shift linkage problem.

>1975 Corvette Stingray
started tearing apart the interior/console to solve a certain electrical issue i've been having. Still need to replace the control arm bushings and fuel tank seal though. There's a bunch of other misc stuff i'm forgetting.

>1968 Dodge Coronet
didn't get too much done, still need to pull the motor. Still waiting on brakes and suspension parts to arrive. Also need to order my intake for my new motor.

>my other projects
Who the fuck needs free time right?

Is my truck allowed here? 81 c10, straight pipe, 3 geared automatic. Thing drives like a boat.

>foot to the floor will get you a lightning fast 60mph if you're lucky (and going downhill)
>pain in the ass to actually get unless you can find one in country already. and even then, you probably have to fly half way across the country to get it
>Indie band t-shirt and masters degree in Congolese rock painting are practically mandatory
But god damn do i want one.

Went to the track last Thursday. Turned 12.45 at 108.

I didnt think about cutting a light, mostly getting a good launch and shift

Also went to another track in western Illinois for a super chevy show and bracket race. My dad, a few friends if his, and I went as spectators. Prepare for dump

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I think I've seen that thing in Jersey, preddy cool

まんこ

I see you are not grounded anymore

Kek

Am I the only person who likes both classic muscle cars and modern imports?

Nah but I'm very selective on the imports I do like. And I mean all imports, not just Japanese.

>grounded

Noice m8. M going to the vintage drags next Saturday and I'm hyped as fuck. Going to see some slingshot dragsters and take a buttload of pics

Looks like I'll be buying that '66 Imperial and driving it from Arizona to the East end of Texas.

Welp, guess it's time to sell the Cadillac.

Can anyone identify this carb? My dad said it was off a 66 mustang with a289 but I have no clue. Also what kind of choke is this and could it be switched to manual?

Actually scratch that what is this Holley? It's got a manual choke, what would I need to do to put it on my Ford?

>.410
wew lad, did you forget you were racing?

It'd probably only need a rebuild. I had a similar one on a DeLorean awhile back, but I swapped it for a Motorcraft 2100.

Don't even bother putting it on your truck unless you can find a rebuild kit for it, from the list number on it.
You'd need an adapter like this, as I've never even seen or heard of a 2 barrel intake manifold for a 300
ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-Adapter-2-Barrel-Carb-To-1-Barrel-Manifold-/331509381989

Would shitty heads make a difference in the exhaust note?

My 350 sounds like a diesel at idle and below 2 grand, just very raspy and gutless.

Thinking its just a low compression issue

Any of you guys ever play motor city online?

Fuck I miss that game.

>rear carb overflowing and spilling gas onto the exhaust
>Fixed it, it was a plugged vent tube
>Car bogs down when I hit the gas
>Mixture was too lean, fixed it
>Finally I can drive!
>Nope, car bogs down under acceleration
>Must not be getting enough air
>Install bigger air cleaners
>Success!
>tfw scared to go too far in case something else inevitably breaks

Every day is an adventure.

>still haven't put the steelies on

thats cool, but get a real car

Volvos are always an adventure. Hold her close user, you'll miss it someday

>implying he's ever going to sell it

That's rich man coming from a guy that races his dad's Nova. At least that user bought his.

That guy figured out my trip, so I didn't say that, even though I'm not a volvo guy. I dont how I can prove I'm me, but, that wasn't me.

Not even a good Nova. 76 a shit.

Then perhaps you should change your trip.

Changed
It's a 78 m80

Looks to be a Holley 4412 with a manual choke!!!! Fuck yeah this kicks the ass of the Holley 390 id have to buy.

How bad of an idea is getting one of those adapters to bolt a 2 barrel carb to a single barrel manifold?

Old Volvos are nice though

lol yeah, that'll come eventually, I've just been focused on getting it running properly lately. Once the mechanical is sorted I'll move on to cosmetics.

I've never really heard much good things about adapters, but there's got to be some improvement.
The problem is, will all of the original linkage hook up to the new carb?

I have no idea tbqh. What's bad about adapters?

well I've heard that there isn't much gains in performance, say you put a 4 barrel adapter onto a two barrel manifold, while a 4 barrel carb is on it, you'd expect better performance, but it's still going through a two barrel intake, so gains might be minimal.
Same applies to 2 barrel to 1 barrel

i'd say so, we /boat/ here

I'm just going to guess tho that anything is better than the 1 barrel just pissing gas into the manifold

Not sure if this quite qualifies as a classic, but I picked this old girl up last week and loving her. They're such simple cars and so easy to work on + reliable too. I plan to semi-daily drive her.

>tfw limited american run means I'll never own an opel gt

There's a decent amount of them here tbqh

This one is under $5,500.00

ebay.com/itm/Opel-GT-Runs-Drives-Body-Interior-Good-Needs-TLC-/391445483143?forcerrptr=true&hash=item5b23f80e87:g:UQsAAOSw~oFXJA48&item=391445483143

Buy one and restore it.

I've seen restored ones go for no more than 8k before. It's a very reachable goal.

Does that tree ever get parking tickets?

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