Gear ratios

>Could you explain further? The pinion and ring of what?

Then I hope you're taking it someone to get it done......

Your topspeed may or may not be reduced, if its governed to 145 not likely, if you redline at 145 already yes.

>street pulls/racing

kill yourself...oh wait, you'll do that anyway by being a retard and

>street racing

FYI, different gears aren't going to help you nearly as much as cranking up the ride height and getting better tires

The way I explain gear ratios to people: think of it in terms of a 10 speed bike. a 4.10 is like being in 2nd or 3rd gear on a bike. You'll be able to get going much faster, but it'll take a lot more energy for you to pedal fast for a long period of time, and you won't be able to go as fast as if you were in 9th or 10th gear.

>Could you explain further? The pinion and ring of what?
Maybe you should get a new hobby user.

Thanks.

Just trying to get informed.

He's talking about installing the gears yourself. You should take it to a reputable place and have them install for you. It's not that hard, but you need some special tools and some patience to do it properly.

Lot of 4x4 forums talk about this stuff as they do it all the time.

Yeah, I was going to bring it into a shop; I don't have the tools to change them out myself.

Considering 3.73 gears instead, as they seem to be a more practical middle ground.

Good for butt dyno numbers and 1/4 mile if you choose wisely. A jump form 3.73 to 4.10 will hardly affect your mileage. You will need a tune for them more than likely.

Going to get a tune and CAI first.
Have read conflicting statements, what would be appropriate for an automatic? 3.73's or 4.10's?
From what I understand 4.10's are a little too aggressive for manuals, but may be good for automatics.

4.10's will likely be too steep and have you spinning tires constantly. 3.73 is about as steep as I'd go with an auto, you could even do fine with 3.55's though you won't have as much seat-of-the-pants power increase.

>You will need a tune for them more than likely.

LOL tune what? The speedo?

>Tfw 5.13s
>Tfw 2800rpm on the freeway at 60

> nearly 3k rpm
> the speed limit
What the fuck m8, what's your car/it's redline?

Suzuki escudo/vitara/sidekick/geo tracker?

I have one. 5.125 finals (people often round up to 5.13). And I never go past 1:1 because the fastest I ever tend to travel is 60km/h. I average 8 km/h

Not him but I have one and that would be my guess too.

7.5k, but I've never taken it up that far. 5k in 5th with 235 tires is like 90mph. And that's pretty much top speed.

I wouldn't even waste my money going one gear ratio up.

I love the high reduction. Gives the little 1.6l good leverage.

On any particular car, power is determined only by engine RPM. The higher your RPM, the more power your engine makes. Shorter final drive ratios just allow you to reach the higher RPMs when you are launching from a standstill. Once you get moving, you don't need the gear mod because you can just downshift to get more power.

My stock RX7 cruises at 3.7k rpm on the highway in top gear.

Remember to get the correct speedometer drive gear for whatever final drive ratio you choose

I have 4.10s. They obviously won't change the spacing between gears, but your first gear will be shorter, by about 25% or so, and so will all the following gears. Sometimes they will slow ya down when racing from the wrong speed, for instance..
Let's say 2nd does 40-70, now with 4.10s its 30-55. You'll be a bit disadvantaged at roll races from 45 now, wheras that would have been a perfect spot before. The main thing is getting tires that will hook in 1st, and being able to take off much faster.

>They obviously won't change the spacing between gears

It won't change the out put to the drive shaft but with the rear end in mind it does "tighten up" the gearing. RPM drop will be less for an upshift at the same engine speed and same selected ratios.

You will notice less of an rpm drop due to the fact that the reduction is higher.

Unfortunately, I don't own a manual, it's an automatic. What would the difference mean to me?
I believe the stock gears are 3.15.

>Auto mustang

Christ you're more a faggot that we first thought.

Your auto will just shift sooner

>bama
Get a real tune.

Also go 3.73s for a street car.

I have an 06 with the 5r55s auto tranny. 4.10 and 235/55 17 tires. At 80 I'm almost at 3k rpms. You have a 6 speed auto but idk what the final drive is on it.
ringpinion.com/calculators/Calc_RPM.aspx
This site has all you need to figure out your rpm at any speed and tire size.

> Get a real tune.
Recommendations? Considered SCT/AED aswell.

I think he is talking about going to a shop and getting a dyno tune. Bama can get close but they can't account for everything.

Don't use any canned tunes. I bought my SCT tuner(with Bama stickers) second hand for real cheap, just make sure it has unlocks left. And I used Mo's Speed Shop for my email tunes. He will make adjustments to the tune for life if needed until you're cars setup changes. Putting 93 is useless on a stock tune but you can feel the difference a lot on a tune. Makes a difference on the automatic transmission too. Dyno is better but this is the way to go if you don't want to do that. Ask about octane differences and he might give you a tune for each one. He did for me.

im at 3000 revs at 60mph

feels loud man

I wouldn't go 4.10's unless it was a dedicated track car

3.73-3.91 are good for accel and still decent at cruise for highway vehicles

not op but is it worth it to buy a whole new pumpkin if i want a torsen lsd and 3.73s on my 15 or buying the gears and lsd and putting them into the old one there is a big difference in price for the pumpkin being alot more but I dont have the skill to do the labor myself so which option is cheaper?

You could probably buy the torsen and gears and labor and probably still be cheaper. Shop around and call for install quotes. Were you gonna install the pumpkin yourself?