B a y e r i s c h e
M o t o r e n
W e r k e
>post your Scheisseschachtel [sic] (Scheisskiste)
>post what you've fixed on it recently
>post what you've upgraded
>post how much you love the damned thing
>post any variants of "should I buy this BMW?' or "should I buy a BMW?"
Other urls found in this thread:
ecstuning.com
ecstuning.com
honolulu.craigslist.org
collegestation.craigslist.org
houston.craigslist.org
e30zone.net
youtube.com
twitter.com
Spent over 3 hours washing, waxing, detailing...
The interior has never looked so good!
You have dem flowers I want brah.
Always preferred the E46 over the 36, mostly because the 36 is so god damn common around here among kids. Nowadays the 46 has been surging in popularity too though.
07 335i
120k miles
the memes are true, i've had to replace a broken radiator hose, 2x power window failures, and a leaking oil filter housing gasket
ive had the hpfp replaced
thinking about putting either a JB4 or Cobb tune, does anyone have any advice/experience with these?
want to run some DCI's as well
will my car explode? it has more miles than most who make these mods
yep, in yurop the prices especially during the last year have dropped for E46`s. The number of shit tier E46 325`s and 328`s near 2k EURO mark have increased, while 328 and 325 E36 have been steady. Also the E30 here is surprisingly stale. has been 2k or good examples for over 3 years.
I guess i would kinda want a decent enough (good drivetrain, meh body, will rust out anyway due to winters) e36 328 because they arent full of electronic and sensor shyte, parts are darn cheap and the m52b28 is a pretty good engine, but nooooo, i had to be sensible and buy a reliable if a bit rusty daily mazda. damn, that thing is no fun. stupid cheap to run though.
Ye I know man. Them E36's are like fucking everywhere over here in Finland, especially during summer. Kids love em and I can hardly blame them. I mean, cheap, relatively powerful and "reliable" RWD car in a pretty sweet looking body, what's not to like?
One reason i used to hate on E36 was that the rust protection is worse than it is on the E30, with stupid places where the rust forms, but when you have 2.5 k euros and you need a cheap car that can do sideways stuff in yurop, the e36 is a pretty good choice. I love my E30 too much to torture it with salt and potholes, but i want a daily car that can be fun and is cheap to repair, the answer is- E36. and when they start to get scarce, the answer will be E46.
will then people look back at E36`s with the same glint in their eyes as the E30? dunno, but i will still have my E30. not gonna sell that money dump.
I know that feel bro, know it far too well.
The E36 will at some point share some of the cult following the E30 did. Shit, it already has a pretty great following.
I myself opted for the E34 instead because MUH COMFY MUH LEGROOM but also because they are somewhat simpler, also have the M50 engine and are cheaper than the E36's are because they aren't as desirable. They don't have that boyracer tax either because it's a slow piece of shit when compared to any 3 series car with the same displacement.
Can anyone make sense of this oil level?
Man, that looks dry from the pic. Is the base wet? You could try like press it on paper or such and see where it reflects the level.
have you taken it out once cleaned it off then put it in and pulled it immediately back out?
If the base is dry then yes you're low.
I figured as much, started to get some lifter tick a couple weeks or so ago. How come there is some above the full line though? It is always there.
Some might have gotten trapped in the dipstick tube. A common problem in the 1.9 diesel Peugeot 406 for example, where the oil in the tube gives false readings.
Well fuck me I put in 3 quarts and I'm at the low mark... Sorry car!!!
What's that in litres? And what engine? Do note that germans, especially Benz, have a habit of having a god damn ridiculous sized oil pan and take an ungodly amount of oil ins the engine, we're talking upwards from 8 litres at times.
Apparently a quart is 0.946 litres. My car specifies 7, but a lot of people say to go half to a full quart over that.
So a quart is almost a litre. You put in barely 3 litres. I think that's not enough for any engine, aside for like some Isetta thing
I know that is why I'm on my way to the store right now. Engine sounds smoother already though.
I hope she makes it brah.
I remember my old man once doing an oil change for his then brand new Citroën Xantia V6. Went well and all, but after 20 minutes the engine started grinding and died. Turns out he forgot to pour in the new oil.
fug
Now with photo
Thinking of putting my hardtop back on since its getting to hot to drive with the top down at anytime between 7am and 9pm
Gotta align it first though, its been rubbing and fucking shit up for ages. pic related.
fug :DD
Posted this in the last thread but didn't get much feedback. I've been lurking R3vLimited forever and I really want to get into an E30 318is. How much would you guys pay for a decent example? Somewhere around 5k? As a college student not making much, how big of a hole would I be digging myself into as far as maintenance/upkeep? What are the immediate problem areas I should be concerned with?
plz help bros i love these cars
For 5k USD it better be mint. 2-3k for a good clean one. 1-1.5k for a rough bit.
Trying this stuff out. Still need to replace the plate holder trim regardless because of the holes in it.
For real? I feel like I keep seeing clean ones go for 7-10k
well I spoiled the cables back around the wheel correctly and it turns out the actual mounting point on the carriage is broken. Having to do a replacement after a nearly successful DIY bruises my ego
Talk them down, they're obviously being quite cheeky with the price.
For dimpled versus smooth, the price gap is ridiculous. Luckily, my trim is dimpled. Not sure what had smooth mouldings.
ecstuning.com
Do a spyder conversion? Manual too and save some weight.
this poor vandalized estoril blue vert near my work
...
you can't see it in pictures but some strange fluid has been poured on the car
...
because its an "s" is why the prices are so high. please dont expect much from them stock in way of speed. theyre retarded slow, but m42's have all forged internals
This stuff worked hella good. Recommended for your trim. Let's see how long it holds up.
Are all UK plates that glossy?
That car can be stripped to nothing within a matter of minutes, yet all they do is pour something on it and damage the top.
And a before in daylight.
Also, fuck Retrica. It makes taking photos that fit the file size limit easy but it fucks up the rotation somehow.
what do you do to your pics?i like em.
is it too late to try and get into an affordable e36 m3?
I'm mostly into older bmws like e30, e28 etc, but I kinda want to buy an e36 m3 now. if not I'll probably just swap an m50 into my e30
m50 e30 > m3 e36
Spotted this beauty while I was out to take some photos. Makes me miss my lux alpinweiß M3/4/A except for the auto bit. This one has lux slats and skirts, but it has got vaders inside, so they must have swapped them.
Colour in VSCO then throw them into Lightroom for crops and other tweaks. I have them both on PC and Android, though usually if I take it on my phone I'll just do it there.
I got mine last December. Prices are about what they were when I got my first one, they probably dipped between cause they're apparently on the rise.
Some mint examples are going for 15-20k on BFC for example. Dealers will probably have that price for a lot of them, if they're selling closer to 10k they probably have problems or are more ratty. Even at 12k mine had a bit of a scratch and slight dent on passenger door, though otherwise it was in good condition. Lots on CL are at 5-8k but I can tell you the ones I looked at in that range had more dings and not perfect interiors, often had mods and stuff.
What mine was would have probably gone 9-11k om CL, it was a pretty good deal from a dealer, nice man too the guy was.
Postin my Scheisseschachtel. Repainted the sideskirts again. Anyone know what these wheels are called and if they're original BMW rims?
i like your pictures
and your yellow fogs
but not that stupid lip
They are cheap.. like 8k will get you a decent one.
m3 is still faster tho
Im looking at this car Veeky Forums
Ive been talking to the owner and he seems like the kind of owner that really loves his car.
What do you guys think?
What's a good price on a e36 m3 with 170k and good service history?
I've used it before, it looks hella nice the first day, but if you put too much you'll get runs down your car of black when it rains, and it only lasts a couple weeks before having to do it again. Still, totally worth it if you're doing a photoshoot or car meet or something
engine wise the m42 is pretty darn solid- chain driven, 16 valve, forged guts. kickass little engine that likes revs.
weak points for m42- sump bolts + head gasket miiiiight let in some coolant, but it was subject to a recall. my advice- just rebuild it when you buy the car- all of the gaskets cost less 200 euros, port n polish everything connected to the head, do some welding magic on the exhaust mainfold to straighten those nasty bends into something more free flowing and add a MarkD chip. if youre more serious, get an m47 crank and bring it up to near 2 liter. if youre more serious and want a german sr20- turbo the little fuck. the pistons got extra oiling and the internals are forged. the engine will take up to 300 bhp stock, gearbox was able to take the same, dunno about the tranny 100%
body- stock e30 shit. front suspension turrets, firewall, rear suspension turrets, area on the underbody in front footwells, rear boot pockets, sunroof and the front fenders have holes at the bottom to let water out- if they are clogged, rust might have set in. all in all the e30 has pretty good rust proofing, they simply are old cars and these are the most common places for rot to set in. sand blast ahoy!
depends on condition of the car.. 170k and service history doesnt really mean anything.
but in socal expect to pay 7-10k for a good one.
I was thinking of getting a E46 330Ci, but I'm worried about the maintenance costs. I just want a car that works and doesn't have bigger maintenance costs than the car is worth.
I havent checked it out yet. It looks mint and and I'm assuming pages of service records implies it was maintained better than a list of mawds
not for an is bro.
whats gud then
everyone wants like $8k in my area
Coil died on my E46 M3 a half mile to work, brought it back home.
Was going to replace them and the plugs for good measure(already bought bosches and was waiting for a good time) myself, but the local shop I've been wanting to get into gave me a parts labor that's only $100 more than parts online, so fuck it.
I know I need to rent a trailer to tow it, but how much damage am I risking if I toss it front up on a tow dolly and roll it ten miles to the shop?
5k for an is is fine
im saying to him no is is 2k.
Those are Style 41's definitely an OEM wheel
My ride. First and only car I've ever had going on 11 years now.
I had a 2001 330i for a couple years as my first car, maintenance wasn't bad at all.
Had 110k on it when I bought it, bought new tires, brakes, rotors, air filters, and that kept me for two years until an Air Force buddy wrecked it.
Granted, it was a lawyer's wife's car and was mint, but it was still great considering.
Don't purposefully seek a 318is. I settled for a 318is after searching for a year or so for a 325, and I wish I had stuck it out until I found a decent 325. I'm gathering parts to build a turbo M20 to replace my turbo M42.
The stock M42 is mediocre in pretty much every way, it doesn't rev high, it makes little power, is course and vibrates a lot, and despite the "timing chains need less maintenance" meme, just about every single M42 powered car you will find on the market needs everything under the timing case replace (expensive!). The M42 is deeply flawed, the retarded profile gasket, the failure prone timing chain idler sprocket, the half-shell thrust bearing which will wear out and allow crank walk in cars that have been started with the clutch depressed. There are also the minor flaws which are quite annoying, like the valve cover bolts and their shallow, weak aluminum threads (always stripped). The engine itself is coarse and noisy, even an out of adjustment M20 is quieter and not to mention way smoother. You can re-build an M42 and correct just about every engine-critical flaw (new main bearings with a full 360 degree thrust surface, late model timing case out of an E36 with the guide replacing the idler sprocket, helicoiled valve cover bolt holes, new profile gasket with ample RTV, etc) but then you're spending a ton of money on an anemic, buzzy engine. An M20 swap would be cheaper and it's a better engine (in b4 MUH TIMING BELT). You'll spend tons of money trying to make a NA M42 come close to even stock M20 power, if you really must stick with it the smart money is on turbocharging. If you turbo it, the bottom end can take a decent amount of abuse with a good tune, a couple people claim to have made 300whp with them, I'm currently making unknown power but my car is reasonably quick.
It's really quite a shame because the E30 318is is a beautifully balanced and lightweight car, handles noticeably better than a 325.
I got my shoe some treats. With 113k km on the clock some parts started to feel a bit worn out.
>new front control arms with poly bushes
>new KW v3 coilovers
>new H&R anti-roll bars
>12mm spacers for the stock wheels along with new wheel bolts
>new front and rear top mounts
>new Sachs clutch and new throw out bearing and new rear crankshaft seal
>new two-piece front brake rotors along with ebc yellow stuff pads
I was considering a 318 as an entry level track car as I figured it was pretty close to being a miata without being a miata. Is a 325 a better choice? Considering what people think their e30s are worth should I just look at e36 m3s?
the 'is' is a collector. you're paying a premium for the 'is' part.
if you don't care about it being an 'is' than yes you should get a 325i for sure.
and not a 325e unless ur going to swap the head.
The 318is is a better autocross car than track car, and autocross is better for your driver mod needs than track days because it's a lot cheaper. The 318is is outclassed by a stock Miata in autocross, which is also cheaper than a decent E30. The 325is is an all around better car than the 318is, and I'd honestly take a regular 325i over a 318is (keep in mind most 318is do not have the *optional* limited slip diff). Avoid the 325e because most of them have the small strut tubes and you'll have to find some 51mm tubes to do any decent aftermarket suspension setup. Even the late model 325e 'super eta' is to be avoided if you're looking at tracking/autocrossing.
I'd stay away from cheap E36 M3s, they can be found for E30 318/325 prices but they're pretty much garbage at that point.
M44 is even worse, lol
Yeah the M44 is probably BMW's worst ever gasoline engine.
* not counting the M40, but we didn't get those here in the US so I forgot about them.
Most of the e30s in my area are verts or 325e. One $8k 318is. collegestation.craigslist.org
So I started looking at M3s and everything about this one looks good. houston.craigslist.org
wat do
So I started
>Most of the e30s in my area are verts or 325e
Same pretty much everywhere. E30 convertibles suck ass and a 325e requires lots of work to be a fun car, so they aren't worth very much and change hands a lot, The 'i' and 'is' models are currently entering a pricing bubble so pretty much anything decent is going to cost an assload.
The problem with the E36 M3 is that the E36 marked the end of BMW's "simple and durable" era and a cheap E36 M3 is probably going to have plenty of things wrong with it that you can only find by looking at it in person, from VANOS issues to electrical problems.
>the E36 marked the end of BMW's "simple and durable" era
I dunno man, I'd argue it didn't end properly until the E46 was phased out, that's quite a simple car as well, maintenance wise.
its basically just an e36 with a different unibody tbqh other than the m3 of course.
picking up my e36 on saturday
only thing left to do is the roof
cannot afford it so hardtop all summer
still blessed i got my dream car tho
Yeah, I've owned an E46 330i in the past, and now I have a daily driver M3, the difference is palpable but not awful, I'd still call the M easy to privately maintain as long as VANOS isn't involved and you have a cool local shop willing to rent you the tools.
This image, it makes me hard
M40B16
the horror
in my case it was reliable and even kinda economical, but god it was anemic and the lifter tick... the fucking lifter tick.
My little 7 hasn't been feeling that well lately.
Biggest concerns right now are the high pressure window washers that just don't work and the right "abblendlich", fucker keeps eating them H1's at an alarming pace. We're talking like a bulb per day.
I think the H1 problem might be the grounds, but am at a total loss for the pissers. I own some cheap chinese tester but have no idea how to use it or if that piece of shit even works. Funny how me getting anything done with that thing is a "Fluke"
>lifter tick..
Are you sure that wasn't the cam eating itself alive? e30zone.net
Maybe a ground has failed in the loom which is causing the current multiple bulbs use to go through the one that keeps blowing. You're certain the bulbs are blowing out and have continuity tested them or have seen the filaments broken, right?
uk here
can confirm, e46 are really getting cheaper
e36 are rising and have been for the last year, not many left now
i tend to have the oil in the middle of the rectangle
is this car abandoned?
it should be ok if not good
check the cooling system has been overhauled and the subframe is ok
should be fine, yours is not lowered
pic is my e36 on a trailer
is me
Man that's the LTW splitter, how can you hate that?
Looks good! Go for it.
Personally, I like 1997 M3s best but I have to say I like TiAg better than Arctic, oh well.
Sweet!
Do. A. SPYDER. Conversion.
c'mon now
your car clearly looks like its too babied to ever been taken to a track, making it rice
I like having a soft top , too.
Yeah, I know it'll be fine on a full trailer, I was talking about a simple dolly hitch where the rear axle is left to roll in neutral. I'd naturally assume that'd end in a dead diff or a wrecked trans, but I've been wrong before.
In other news, fuck speed sensors. Spent an hour and half a can of oil trying to wriggle this fucker out since it's the primary cause for my speedometer going out, without luck.
Nice, it's your daily driver then? I'm lusting after this '85 325e but I'm worried about constantly filling it with new parts.
I got an 2001 E46
The parking brake/hand brake doesn't hold the car, even on the smallest of hills.
What do?
Replace your parking brake shoes, they're probably worn out.
Parking brakes need to be replaced like regular brakes.
>Do. A. SPYDER. Conversion
lol
maybe one day when i can park it indoors
if you go slow and on even ground should be ok
cant offer advice on the senor issue, hope you can get it out soon
I should have thought more about the word UK there...
bump
Get it and put the original bumpers on, it is a nice colour.
Few years ago, some chink crashed into my bimmer, passenger side.
Took it to Caliber Collision to get it fixed, but they didn't do a good job.
When driving past 40 mph, I can hear wind coming from the passenger side, and it looks like there is a small gap between the door and frames that allows air in.
Also another thing I've noticed is that my passenger side door can wiggle up and down while the others obviously don't.
Is there anyway to stop the air from coming in? The whistle sound is getting annoying.
Pic related, it's "the gap" that allows air in.
Try and align your door striker a little so the door shuts flush
Roll down the window and bend the door
I will try this and if that fails, then I will try this user's suggestion
The early '90s BMW E30, assuming yours is like the 323 iC or something like that?
I have the 1991 318is, the little four-cylinder coupe that raped the track into conceiving the almighty /M series.
If you enjoy the experience of being behind the wheel, this is the best starter car.
youtube.com
This video speaks volumes about the car. Thing about bimmers from the nineties: the speedo/odo go out and never come back. I just replaced my speed sensor to no avail.
All things considered, I would sell my first born to slavery to buy another E30. They are god's gift to the vaping, douchey, fun-loving young men of the 2010s.
>the speedo/odo go out and never come back. I just replaced my speed sensor to no avail.
You've got a bad capacitor or cracked solder traces. This is a common and well documented problem with E30 clusters.
Yeah, I figured as much. I'm going junkyard moseying this weekend. I'm in the PacNorthWest and for whatever reason there's a huge cult following for these things, so here's to finding a few junkers in the graveyard.
>318is, the little four-cylinder coupe that raped the track into conceiving the almighty /M series.
But the M3 predates the 318is
I just picked up a second set of refinished ZCP wheels for the E46 M3. Included mounted and balanced Bridgestone Potenza RE050's that have a lot of life left. 295's on the rear too! Coming from 275's. Got em for $1,300 shipped. New Pilot Super Sports were $1,200. Figured I'd go with the used tires with wheels included for about the same. Will probably sell the one's I have now for $600 or so.
Been wanting some tires that had a bit taller profile to help fill the wheel well a little better and a little wider tread to make the sides of the tire flush with the edges of the fender.
And tomorrow, I'm FINALLY getting to the cooling system. Already pulled the belly pan off, removed the oil cooler and all plastic shroud pieces.
Noticed my ps lines need replacing too. Only low pressure lines so gonna be cheap.
Can I play ?