Can someone redpill me on longtube headers?
Do they actually increase HP on naturally aspirated setups or are they just snake oil? Is the HP gain largely due to the removal of the cats? What if you go with high flow cats, would it be futile? o/r catless setups are too much for a DD imo. They are a PITA to install and cost at least $600-700 since you need a short mid pipe as well.
Car in question is a 2005 Mustang GT
if you are replacing stock headers then you will most likely see a power increase, and It'll sound a bit better.
They can make a difference over 6000 rpm if in combination with upgraded cams and heads.
This. Otherwise they're just build candy.
Longtubes are good for around 20 hp on the 3 valve, and if you add cams down the road you'll get more power than if you didn't have them. And that's with high flow cats, you don't need to go catless.
Source:my 05 GT
what tubes and mid pipe are those?
Looks like the stock cat-back to me
Also anyone here have any experience with Speed Engineering headers or Texas Speed headers?
Just wanting to see some personal stories before pulling the trigger for them on my LS3 Camaro
I had speed engineering headers on my ls1 Camaro. Loved them, and the price for stainless was amazing. They kept redesigning them, as they had minor issues. But that's good, as they listened to what people wanted. 10/10 would buy again. Wish they made some for c5s.
>le redpill XD
what is it with autists and the matrix?
Over stock you'll definitely notice a difference. But over shortys you won't notice unless you're chasing times or a dyno number.
properly designated matched length long tube headers do give pretty significant gains in the context of N/A bolt ons. 15-30hp on a N/A engine is massive.
when did anything under 6k matter?
Alright thanks, I've seen some people say they had them rub on the steering column, but I've also seen people have fitment issues with TSP, kooks, or any other decent header brand so I guess it can be a luck of the draw thing.
Still, for stainless headers/high flow cats you can't beat that deal. Think I'll pull the trigger next month.
I know on vq engines they add around 18whp/20wtq which is a nice bump. Big displacements move alot of air and you'll see bigger improvements. A careless straight pipe for example with big straight headers you'll see an overall improvement
I've always figured any rubbing issues will be more equated to the tolerances of the car itself. you can take the same set with rubbing issues and put them on a diff car and it will fit better.
doesn't this totally look like a character out of the matrix?
To be honest it's likely due to the rubber motor mounts allowing the engine to move just enough to rub
The stock mounts on my car are more to absorb vibration than anything else
I would definitely plan on changing your motor mounts while you are doing the headers. That way you start with it being as "level/straight" as possible.
They are JBA's with a catted shorty midpipe. I have magnaflow round mufflers in there as resonators before the axle which you can also see in the picture. I've had no problems with steering shaft interference and I still have stock motor mounts.
That might be true on some vehicles but not on the mustang. Shorties yield a very modest gain compared to long tubes and are just as difficult to install, so generally they are not worth it unless you live in a state where you have to keep the stock cats.
Put aFe long tubes and cats on my 6.4 HEMI. Holy hell did the sound turn into an orgasm. As far as a power increase, hard to tell - no dyno results. Low end torque may actually suffer from this, but it's WELL worth it for the sound - bigger difference than even the catback made.
>redpill me
pure cosmetic, sound effects bullshit
it heavily depends on the vehicle. Stock exhaust manifolds are pretty good post-1990 for most applications. If you have a car from the 70's or 80's, you might see an increase on an otherwise stock engine. It really depends.
>want lts for my 2000 4.6 f150
>no one makes them specifically for that engine >some people claimed to have 5.4 lts work with 4.6 engines
>tfw
Yupp, exhaust isn't snake oil. You'll definitely make gains, and it'll be more noticeable at high rpm, especially if you have cams. 3v heads flow really well on the intake side, just as good as the older 4vs really.
If I'm not mistaken they do something like 240-260 cfm at 500 lift, so thats probably better than 99 and even 01 cobra 4v heads.
Not as good as mach 1 or 03 cobra, gt500 heads, GT heads, or the FR500s, but you only have to buy 2 cams, plus you get an aluminum block.
Seems like the 3vs can make right over 300whp with full bolt ons, headers/cai/cats/mufflers, so that isn't bad at all. After a 17% loss, thats almost 400 motor horse.
All those mods will work synergistically with cams, because high revving airflow is usually restricted by the above listed stock parts. I'd think you could make 340whp with cams, maybe 360 with fully ported heads and stuff.
You need a good shop, and to have the heads sent off and cnc ported, maybe built for oversized valves as well. Then get some cams to push those heads to the limit, and maybe an intake manifold and TB as well to help with high revving. Dyno it and set your rev limiter up to 6.5-7k rpm. That would definitely run with the newer 5.0s, and a 400$ safe shot of nitrous for the ones that are also bolt on'd.
>mfw you won't do any of this because you don't even know if headers work
>mfw i wasted a lot of time typing this
quick question,
how does one compensate for fuel input with nitrous? wouldnt it make the engine run fugging lean?
Nigger, 3v 4.6 stangs can do AT LEAST 320rwhp with JUST long tubes, cai and cams with a canned tune. 340rwhp if you got a good engine.
heads are fucking expensive and you might as well buy a procharger for more power