Is there any downside to going to bigger brakes? What does "big brakes" mean anything, just wider pads?
I can't imagine the multi-piston calipers doing anything without a master-cylinder upgrade.
Bought a newer civic, and the brakes are atrocious. Haven't replaced fluid yet, but I am pretty sure that won't fix it fully.
I would only think the down side would be getting used to them, and maybe added weight
Put some brembos on it.
>Is there any downside to going to bigger brakes?
Clearance
>What does "big brakes" mean anything, just wider pads?
Larger diameter = more leverage, more surface area = heats slower and cools faster
>I can't imagine the multi-piston calipers doing anything without a master-cylinder upgrade.
You don't necessarily need to upgrade your master cylinder, especially for power brakes, for manual brakes it's best to match the bore size of the master to that of the pistons
Really does not take any getting used to going to bigger brakes.
If your brakes are strong enough to lock up your tires you don't need bigger brakes the limiting factor in stopping power isn't your brakes 99%of the time. It's your tires
Unless you track your car then just get pads that won't fade as much
I would have thought if you started with shitty brakes, stepping up to a big brake kit would alter the feel, like a little bit goes a long way compared to the ones that were replaced
I wish the rear brakes on my Jetta were the same size as the front ones. It looks ducking weird with 18" wheels
>ducking weird
dumb mobile poster
>pads that won't fade as much
>pads
>fade
Fading happens when the brake liquid boils and gas bubbles prevent the liquid from holding the pressure. Pads alone only do little. Some pads have some sort of heat shield (Ferodo), though.
>only concerned about looks
Don't make us VW drivers look like stupid posers, please.
The rear brakes don't need to have the same size as the front brakes. Most of the weight during braking is on the front wheels anyway and the rear becomes lighter. Now, blocking the rear wheels even more by having bigger brakes you risk losing grip/contact even more and the rear might start sliding.
Or the rear brakes are totally underchallenged and start to rust and degrade due only being used very little.
Larger calipers, more pistons in the caliper, and a larger diameter rotor, also.
Sometimes going to a bigger master cylinder is detrimental.
If the car was used do a brake service replacing the pads, rotors and fluid. If that still doesn't make an improvement, go to braided lines and see if that makes some improvement.
I thought it was from the brake pads getting too hot.
how would one prevent it though, is there some sort of cooler for brake fluid? I've never heard of a system like that
You limit your wheel options, only big wheels work with big brakes.
Depending on the mileage of the car it could've have a bad brake job and they put on some shitty pads and/or rotors. I'd put everything back to oem except maybe some stainless steel lines to give you a nice pedal feel.
youre thinking of pedal fade. i think what hes goin on about is brake fade, where the temperature rises high enough on the friction sutrfaces to lower the rotor and pads coefficient of friction.
This here.
Guarantee they wont fit inside stock civic wheels.
theres a balance between brake size and weight & use
too big and no temperature = shit braking performance.
OP here - I appreciate all the replies. I am thinking of swapping calipers anyway, because they seems a little wonky and I have done it on most of my cars (stock replacements, not hurr durr I doriftu muh civic).
I was just looking at better options because the shit I got from autozone/rockauto tend to rust like shit.
I am not concerned about brake fade at all, I am not going to be left-foot braking down a hill or anything.
Just want better stopping distance.
If anyone could recommend some stock-replacements that are good quality, that would be awesome.
> Just want better stopping distance.
You need more pots.
Just keep your stock shit and put some better pads.
Probably right. Going to check caliper pins and shit in the process.
OEM calipers.
Want a better stopping distance? Get good tires.
Shit's expensive as fuck. I am not one to cheap out on this, but dealership wants $240 a caliper. Fuck that noise.
Go to salvage yards. Pick calipers from the models that share them.
How hard is that? Fucking idiot.
go with a fluid that has a higher heat rating.
What year civic and trim level? coupe or sedan?
Only fucker here who gave you the right answer. Get better tires for stopping distance. I also recommend braided lines for improved pedal feel.
Oh, you are one of those "go to salvage yards" morons.
1. There is nothing there, ever.
2. If it is there, it's utter shit and a crapshoot.
You are one of those "Get an LS1 from a junkyard for $200, it's a 30 minute swap"/ "You can get a decent running car for $500 if you know where to look" people, aren't you?
braided lines are a meme
2008 Coupe non-si, manual.
I didn't know what slow is until this car.
>braided lines are a meme
I also tend to think that. I would imagine they are a bit safer if you are driving on super-shit roads.
A little related anecdote - the lines on one of my junker teenage POS cars rusted in the middle of the chassis far before anything happened to the endpoint between the metal and the caliper (which is what gets replaced with "braided lines".
I've always found what I need at the pick and pull near my house. Regular junkyards are shit though.
Lol you're one of those people that takes their cars to shops for dumb shit like exhaust, cams, and valve cover gaskets aren't you?
you're welcome.
hondaautomotiveparts.com
Braided lines don't expand like rubber ones so they provide a consistent pedal feel on the track and during spirited driving.
I haven't, ever. And I tried setting notifications and coming in at 8 am, etc.
1. The funny thing is that you listed the type of shit EVERYONE has done themselves.
2. Sitting under a car without a proper lift and cutting rusted exhaust bolts is not the best way to spend time, especially since in many cases you have to drop the swaybar, etc.
3. Working on cars isn't the heroic feat you make it out to be. Hopefully you will see as you grow up.
Thanks.
I get the theory, but I doubt the practice. I have never tried it though, so I can't really talk.
No im not one of those idiots.
I'm actually a guy that has gone to salvage yards and got a rear boot lock and mechanism for 30$ while the dealer wanted 120$, two tailights for 80$ while the dealer wanted upwards of 200$, a bonnet rubber strip for 20$, and a lot more stuff.
Yeah, sure many are utter shit, but they're not all shit.
It's your problem you're a fucking shithead and only know wreckers. Salvage yards are were cars exactly like yours are after being in a crash and you pick the decent parts out of'em.
>I'm actually a guy that has gone to salvage yards and got a rear boot lock and mechanism for 30$ while the dealer wanted 120$, two tailights for 80$ while the dealer wanted upwards of 200$, a bonnet rubber strip for 20$, and a lot more stuff.
They ARE useful for that kind of stuff.
>It's your problem you're a fucking shithead and only know wreckers. Salvage yards are were cars exactly like yours are after being in a crash and you pick the decent parts out of'em.
heh, mad.
Try new pads and fluid first. If it's still no good, then do the calipers.
And for brake calipers as well. A car that has crashed many times will have brake parts still usable. But they're also some of the very first to be picked. It's your problem you're an idiot.
Not him but there are independent auto salvage yards around here that will source the part(s) you need from other salvage yards if they don't have what you want in stock.
My truck got rear ended, fucked up my bed, tailgate, bumper, etc. I talked to a guy at the salvage yard and he said that he'd probably be able to find me a good condition bed, tailgate, and bumper for around $1000 and if I had time to wait a few weeks he could probably even find all that stuff in the same color as my truck so I wouldn't have to do any painting.
The body shop was quoting $800 for a new tailgate, $600 for a new bumper, and $1400 for a passenger side bed PANEL (not the entire bed, basically just the quarterpanel / wheel well piece). On top of the high prices of parts, there was also going to be $4000 worth of paint and labor involved according to them.
So yes, salvage yards (not "scrap yards") are great places to go for body parts, used engines/transmissions, random pieces of running gear, etc.
But we're just:
>one of those "go to salvage yards" morons.
>lock up your tires
Mother fucker, it's called ABS
what the fuck are you talking about? I've got tons of shit from pick and pulls.
edis module, coil packs
a good condition transmission
trim pieces, bumpers
brake calipers, rotors
1. Hence why im calling you out as someone who doesn't do it themselves
2. Lose weight and buy a better angle grinder.
3. Please point out where I made it out to be a heroic feat?
Also why do you doubt the practice when its obvious you have zero track time and zero experience building engines if you don't think you can have a decent running and high hp engine with a 200 dollar junkyard bottom end.
Only takes ten minutes to get used to it. My truck has super shit brakes, mom'd car has super good ones. I usually slam on the brakes by mistake coming out of the driveway and then i'm used to it.
>Also why do you doubt the practice when its obvious you have zero track time and zero experience building engines if you don't think you can have a decent running and high hp engine with a 200 dollar junkyard bottom end.
What does building engines have to do with anything? You are such a tryhard.
>strong rear brakes cause sliding
Hmmmmm
Higher unsprung rotational weight which is a negative
More expensive pads and rotors
More air in the brake fluid that sits in the calipers means for more brake fluid changes
The advantages out weigh the disadvantages though
abs wont do anyting if your brakes never have enough stopping power to lock up your wheels you double nigger
Braided lines are "to keep the rubber line from expanding" and it is a meme/snake oil. Unless you are off-roading or endurance racing it's useless. I might do mine if I drain brake fluid for dot 4 though.
Sell your civic and buy a Type R
If you go to big you can lock the wheel up pretty easy and then its ABS all the time. Look at the kits that already exist for the car and see what sizes they are.