/sqt/ or /qtddtot/

What happens if you total a leased car? Do they cancel the contract or just give you a replacement?

What's the point of shifting gears in a manual car?

I'm not tryng to be snarky or anything, I really do not know the purpose of shifting gears.

What is the difference between a lower gear and a higher gear?

How do you not know this.

The low gears are what you use to get up to speed, the high gears are for once you're at the speed limit, or whatever speed you cruise at. If you stayed in first gear, you couldnt really go any faster than 30 mph depending on the car. If you stayed in 5th or 6th gear you would stall the car when you tried to roll out from a stop light. There's a lot more little things, Google how a manual transmission works and reasons to drive one.

>what are gears

why are you on Veeky Forums

To learn.

That was a very rude statement.

Welcome to Veeky Forums lol, and Veeky Forums as a whole.

You'll find that not everyone is like that though.

Have you ever ridden a 10 speed bike? It's the same concept. low gears make it easy to accelerate, but you can't get to a high speed. High gears make it easy to cruise at the high speeds, but it is hard to get up there. It is most efficient to start at 1 and work your way up. Think of the engine as your legs. Its speed is measured in RPMs, and it goes up as you accelerate until it changes gears; that's when it drops back down to a lower speed. It has very little power when it isn't moving fast, but it also gets very little done when it moves too fast and actually starts to damage itself (that's the red line). You need to find the best gear to stay at optimal RPMs. Automatic transmissions simply go through this process for you.

Call and ask.
Maybe if in high concentration, seafoam is basically diesel mixed with some oils.
No experience with campers, but i wouldnt think they are hugely demanded, however it depends on your local market for the demand. And call the insurance company and ask, they might.
Put the bronco on Craigslist as is for cheap, youll probably get a better deal with a private car, but more selection from dealers.

holy fucking shit im watching 1st stage of initial d

episode 16 the sil80 girl holy shit what the fuck the dicksticking in crazy i daneadsfafgsdf

?????

2003 Sierra 1500
Whenever I hit something hard, like a pothole, speedbump, etc, something gets knocked loose and starts bouncing around under the floorboards. The noise (and feeling) goes away after a while.
I've been under it to check for anything loose. I honestly has no idea wtf it is, and how it corrects itself after a while.

I have a problem with my truck. When i press down the gas pedal it struggles to accelrate.

Sometimes i have to press it 80% down just to get to 40+mph.

What the fuck?

According to my haynes book, the highly probably causes are fuel filter/pump, engine is somehow not getting enough air even though the filter is still new, and the other thing is throttle position sensor.

Also, when i park the truck and rev up the engine, the RPM pin gets to 2000 rpm and then goes back down or way up when i press the gas pedal, its basically unpredictable. If i press down the gas pedal and leave it at a certain position the RPM meter goes down ALOT.

Is the visibility from inside the Camaro really that bad or is it a meme?

How thr fuck do I wash my windows at a gas station without having the fluid run down the sides of the car and leave streaks?

I've been needing some new tires for the past week on my DD and I've been trying to decide on size.

The OEM size is 225/50/R17 but they ride rough. I've read that I can put 235/50/R17 tires on it as well to increase the side wall height and save $30 a tire. Here is a size comparison site I found:

willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=225&aspect=50&diameter=17&wheelwidth=6.5&offset=46&width2=235&aspect2=50&diameter2=17&wheelwidth2=6.5&offset2=46&Submit=Calculate#content

My question is: because the wheel width (6.5" with 46 offset) is pushing it using 235 tires, would it be a bad idea to use a tire with an H speed rating compared to V? Will I run into issues with cornering hard with the softer sidewalls?

Can i really just splice into any cable in the car and "steal" some electricity from it using pic related?

Change fuel filter. You can test the TPS with an ohm meter. Or if it's cheap enough, change it to and see what happens.

might be a long shot, but any idea what car this might be?

Supposed to be American car expressly built for fast speed/pickup, I'm not quite sure.

side profile

I'm thinking of getting this supra is there anything to look out for? sanantonio.craigslist.org/cto/5556838995.html Also are supras any good as a daily driver?

nigger thats a fucking mustang, or a shelby cobra or something

*saleen cobra r

not sure why I said shelby

Yeah but depending on what you're splicing for, it could cause a drain, and those things aren't exactly dependable.

Soldering and heat shrink tubing a splice is more reliable.

They gonna be dead in a few frames.

That first frame seems to be a lancia intagrale tho

yep, those were fucking nice cars

>shitstang
>not knowing they are already the dead

How much transmission fluid is it ok to drink?

So if i wanted, i could just get the electricity for my fog lights by splicing into the cables of my headlights and it would not cause any weird problems?

I don't know shit, forgive me, i just ask myself if it would need more juice that way and make the cable overheat or something

enough.

pls respond

You would need to ground it and put a switch in between the splice and the lights unless you want the fogs to run when ever you cut the head lights on.

Also keep in mind some cars have two circuits for high beams and low beams

Electrical work isn't for the feint of heart, if you do it incorrectly you can easily cause your car to catch fire.

What's the best 10k USD I can spend on a car Veeky Forums?

>Will be a DD
>needs to be practical enough to get groceries, but I won't be regularly carrying 4 passengers.
>needs to be a manual
>preferably RWD or AWD
>I'm no stranger to maintenance, but I don't need anything leaving me stranded in the desert.
>Otherwise I'd just drive my golf.

Been looking at E46 BMWs primarily. W123s crossed my mind too. Thought about trying to find an old Falcon/Tempest/even an El Camino or Ranchero with a small block and updated mechanicals. Haven't pulled the trigger on anything yet.

What am I overlooking?

Thanks friend.

Depending on the weight of car it may feel more floaty when hitting something, and your cornering ability will be more determined on the compound of the tire.

I've went up 20mm in width from stock and had to roll my rear fenders slightly becuase Im dropped about 2ins, but itll ultimately depend on your car and how its set up.

And unless you're planning to do speed runs

*H will be fine

what do you want to do with it?

E39 540i are in that range and wont be any less dependable than an E46.

Well it's a 2008 Hyundai Sonata LX so performence isn't a huge concern as much as comfort and safety.

The only reason I wanted the 235 was having a more comfortable of a ride but is it going to handle like shit in hard turns ( the Sonata is already a boat) because of the increased sidewall height and softer sidewall with the lower speed rating?

Just looking for something fun to lay miles on. I won't be doing anything more than the occasional spirited drive. Change the oil, rotate tires, etc.

540i would be more comfy than a E46, though the MPG will be worse.

Why are you concerned about cornering in a sonata?

Like i said it depends on the compound of the tire, Typically H's arent top of the line tires like z's and V's but I doubt in a sonata you're going to be able to push it hard enough to notice.

In fact it may initially be better handling if your current tires are really old and dry.

I'm just concerned because the stock wheels are only 6.5" wide and 235 is right at the edge of acceptability for that wheel. I don't want to run into issues because of it.

Also the route I drive to work every day is full of roundabouts that I take very hard because of the asshole drivers I commute with being a bitch and lots of exit and on ramps at somewhat high speed.

You probably won't have issues, and even with dumbasses you drive with you're not going to push it any where near the limit to where it gets dangerous, a sonata isn't set up to do that.

Alright. Thanks for the help.

i'll look into them, thanks for the recomendo

I have a question
anyone have the corolla version of this photo?

I'm looking at getting a 1998 audi a4 1.8t quattro

its a 5 speed, 155k, 1300 bucks

I want to know if the drivetrain is worth it, ive never had an audi and neither has anyone in my family or even close friends.

Not really keen on cars, but the Mustang would fit the description of geared towards speed/fast pickup. Looks way boxier than any modern mustangs, so maybe a vintage?

The lights and everything seem to check out but the text explicitly mentions something about american cars, but it might mean this thing was supposed to be a contender for the "dull engine" and "poor chassis" of American cars.

Found another pic with the back which seems identical to this though

I have a truck with some good tires with good tread still, but I still want to get some all terrain tires so I can put em 'em on when Winter/Spring come again.

Currently I have size p235/75r15 tires on, and actually want to get some bigger tires, not too big just size p235/75r17.

Would I have to get bigger rims? Or would the rims I have on currently still fit.

btw I have 6.5" Rim Width if that helps.

op is a mazda, friend

They're neat, had a big ol boner for the B5 back in the day.

Not sure the drivetrain is worth it. I haven't driven a B5 A4, but I have the same engine (I mean, a bit different, it's turned sideways and whatnot) in my GTI.
It's smooth, very little turbo lag, gets ok fuel economy, but it is not a fast car. I believe the year you're looking at would've come with the 150 HP variant. That plus all the extra weight (vs a Mk4 golf/jetta) is going to make for a very underwhelming car.

The plus side is there's a ton of options for bolt-on aftermarket stuff. You can make cool whooshy sounds and make the car significantly quicker than stock, but it'll still be slow without a larger turbo. Even big turbo, these motors just don't make power as easily as the VAG 2.0T and you'll still be slower than most cars that have half as much money put into them.

Also, I'm assuming you're a poorfag if you're looking at a car that cheap. Parts costs (both maintenance and fun stuff) for these are much higher than jap/us cars, as per usual. Be prepared to spend some cash getting new CV boots, wheel bearings, chasing vacuum leaks, replacing sagging headliner/interior bits, timing belt, coilpacks, motor mounts. Haven't seen one pass 200k miles with the original turbo either. There are quite a few problems common to that era of VW/Audi products, pretty much the same on every model.

Anyway, if you really want a VAG product from that era, I'd recommend any Mk3 golf/jetta with VR6, or any mk4 golf/jetta with 1.8T, VR6, or TDI, mostly because the lower weight will make for a bit more of an engaging drive.

Yeah, ive only got like 3000 for a car.

I'm mostly looking at a 03 maxima 6 speed but its like 250 miles away from me and i cant do anything about it until saturday.

So in the meantime the feeling to look for other cars is still pretty strong. Seriously Veeky Forums and vincheck and all these things are a goldmine.

Is it the 99-03 Maxima or the 03-08?

I've always heard the former as being an excellent driver's car, as far as FWD sedans go. I believe you could get it manual with LSD, LSD might even be standard on those. But yeah, I've heard they have an excellent powerband and responsive handling.

Another resource you might want to check out is The Car Lounge. Most of the users come through VWVortex, so the attitude is fairly euro/jap centric, but the board is meant for all makes. It's well used and old, so you can just Google "the car lounge 'x' model" and you'll most likely find an older thread titled something like "Learn me about the first gen Saab 9-3" or any other model that one could be remotely enthusiastic about.

the last number is the wheel size. so no, you would not be able to fit those tires on your current rims.

If you are getting an earlier Maxima, the engines are an issue. the 3.5 eats oil like a bitch. the 3.0 is a wonderful engine though and is fucking bulletproof.

keep an eye out for rust in the rear wheel wells on 00-03 Maximas. every single Maxima/Infinity I have seen has started to rust there, sometimes badly.

its a 03, so

starts to be a thing that ive read about.

I spent vacation time driving around the west coast last year in a 2000 maxima gxe. From central texas to california and zig-zag up through as many roads as i could, up until i got to seattle and then just back down through idaho, utah, new mexico.

The ride was loud but the tires were not great either and the car handled it like a champ otherwise.

The car was rear ended recently so i'm just looking for the fastest car i can afford that i can work on myself while at least being a sedan.

need to get a new set of tires, and im looking at
Hankook Ventus V12's, either the older EVO K110 (690 for 4) and newer EVO 2 (762 for 4).
anyone have opinions on either or?

What is the best gift you could give a mechanic?
Fathers day is coming and i want to get something ready.

Magnetic wristband if he doesn't have one already. Fuckin' love mine.

What is an example of an F-Body car? I heard someone talking about it today and I don't know what it is.
Also
>Is it cheap?
>Is it fast?

I think my Caprice (79) is leaking transmission fluid, but the dipstick still says it's full. Overfull actually. But if it won't move after putting it into gear, adding TF seems to fix it. Just tried to drive it yesterday after sitting for several months, and it wouldn't budge, but I'm worried it's already got too much TF in it.

Also usually I can get it to go if I rev the shit out of it, is this a sign of low TF? This time (after it had sat for several months) reving the shit out of it wouldn't do anything.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_F_platform

I think my head gasket might be about to go. I get hard starting (but not every time, just occasionally), damp exhaust even after running for a long time on a hot day (but again, not all the time) and I've used maybe half a pint of oil in the last 2000 miles, but there's no smoking exhaust except at start up (white), no milkshake oil, and as far as I can tell no oil leaks

Pressure test bro

Yeah dude you're stuck with 15s

What kind of truck? I'd throw 31x10.5/15 on.

Anything bigger without a serious power plant is a waste.

pressure test and check coolant frequently.

Its an F-150 ext. cab.

But thanks for the input man.

Should I splash out on a set of Pilot Sport 2s for my Fiesta ST or just save some money and buy two new Potenza RE050As for the front axle?

The Potenzas are the standard factory fit tyre for the car, and while they haven't really irked me, I know there's a plethora of tyres out there which will be grippier, more comfortable, and with less road noise. However, I am a little skint right now so spending big isn't really a good idea, and my front two are illegal so this has to happen right now. I also think the nature of Potenzas probably feeds a little back into the character of the car.

I just don't know Veeky Forums. Never really properly thought of tyres before.

>2010 highlander
>engine dies sometimes on start, but then starts back up and stays on

Battery is fine, starter is still healthy, but what the fuck?

I mean, it'll die about 3 seconds or so after I start the engine, but if I start it back up, it stays on like nothing's wrong.

Been recommended RE002s as well. Anyone?

Can I fix a valve cover gasket leak by applying fast gasket on the outside of the leak?

Dude. A valve cover leak is the easiest of leaks to fix.

Just get some RTV and a new gasket and do that shit yourself. it's like 15 minutes of your time.

What are some of the most well known cars with tachs like this?

my base model RSX is is hydrolocked, and the mechanics tell me that its fucked.

so

i DO have enough for an engine swap which he told me it'd be a "rough" estimate of 4k max...

the body has 120k miles on it so far and has given me no issues at all besides it getting hydrolocked.

or just cut my losses with it and start all over dealing with strangers who may or may not try to fuck me and sell me their problems...
:(

yes you can do that, the problem there is if the thing youre adding will overload the wire/fuse and cause a fire

I have a 1992 F-150 with the inline 6. It doesn't want to start. It rained really hard one day while I was driving and it just started sputtering and died. I left it in a gas station parking lot for a few days and came back and it started and drove fine like nothing was wrong with it. It rained again and it did it again. But after a few days it started again. Then one day it didn't rain it started I pulled out if my driveway and it died and now it won't start at all. I replaced the distributor in it and it still won't start. The battery is new and all the wires I've checked seem fine. I took it to my local mechanic and he doesn't even know what's wrong with it. Any ideas?

How does Veeky Forums feel about the Mazda3? I'm looking for something reliable and fuel efficient but also not boring as hell.

something thats gonna draw alot of power really needs its own dedicated circuit

Yeah, I don't think you know how difficult it is to get to mine

Specifically 2012 and newer Mazda3 sedan, probably with the Touring trim and the manual 6-speed

Any one know anything about a 1999 ford f250 v10, do they have any problems.

team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/modifications-accessories/610313d1316173316-hella-experience-500-ff-hella500ffwiring.jpg

Won't work, it won't be able to just "steal" power as that power comes from a controlled relay that puts out a certain amount of power.

You're gonna have to run another relay. Here is the way I did it;
That relay will have a few different pins.

One will receive power directly from the battery, and on that cable there should be a fuse
.
Second pin will be grounding.

Third pin will be power that goes to the lamps themselves.

Fourth pin is what will be receiving the "controlling" power. You use a splice like the one you pictured and put it on the wire to the lamp you want the foglights to work in correlation with, aka if you want it to work with the original foglights you put the splice on the power wire for one of them, and if you want them to work with the high beams you put the splice on one of those. From that splice you lay a cable and connect it to the relays last pin.

Now the lights getting power from the new relay will turn on whenever the lights that the splice is connected to turns on. If you want them to work independetly you're gonna have to use a relay that works with its own switch instead of switching on when it gets power to the "last" pin.

Hey guys: LSD problems

It's the stock LSD in my ae86 coupe, it makes a high pitch whining sound which gets higher in pitch at higher speeds, the sound is only heard when the engine is giving power to the diff. Also under deceleration there is a loud clunking sound, sounds kind of like a screwdriver rolling around in the boot but I know it's the diff. Will I need to replace the final drive gear? Carrier bearings?

That maxima will be an absolute money pit. The car will nickel and dime you for its entire life. Please avoid on thag budget.

No reliever pics cuz on mobile but

>How many cars can the cheap $3 can of turtle wax cover
And how liberally can I apply it?
Looking to wax a couple shit boxes

Also

>What is the button that recycles air in the cabin called?
The one that is near the ac and people turn it on with the ac and the picture on it seems like it keeps air in the cabin
What is it called and what does it mechanically do and should I keep using it with ac

Does using daytime running lights use gasoline? I Google daytime running lights and the first article I saw was about how they use more fuel and I don't see how that's possible since it's electric, right? Not gasoline?