Are big brakes on a daily overkill...

Are big brakes on a daily overkill? I'm tempted to upgrade my brakes to a set of brembo's but I'm not sure if it's worth it given I would only get full use out of them 10 percent of the time. What's your thoughts Veeky Forums ?

Do you regularly abuse your brakes and quickly wear pads/rotors out or overheat them?

>DD

Quality pads > big brake kit

Waste of money, if you don't go on track with it.

You're stupid.
You don't put upgraded brakes on your DD because you need it.
You do it because you're an enthusiast.
Ask any normie if they'd put a few thousand dollars into their car for no reason and they'll think you're retarded.

What the fuck? The price alone for those kits is a big FUCK NO from me.

Large brakes warm up slower so you'll actually end up full dagumi like that picture of the japanese guy next to his r32 at night by the ditch you fucking bitch.

Look m8. in a DD, the only brembos you should get are the discs and the pads (not the race spec ones either)

this is so much retard i can't even cover it fully.

costs: 1300 for a "decent" set
if you want brembo, you'll be looking at the price of your car.

>performance
poorer in DD conditions. Racing brake kits take longer to get to operational temperature (which is why on the race track, people who have said brakes and know what they're doing don't use the full potential of the brakes until a couple minutes of hard driving.)

you'll never hit said temperatures in DD conditions, which means your braking will actually be worse than in normal conditions

>handling benificts
there are literally none.
if the brakes are lighter than the OEM ones, the car will change handling for the worst, because you've removed weight, if they're bulkier, same problem

>but muh 4/6 pot caliper
unless you need to slow down from 200 to 0 in 3 seconds, experience G forces that would leave most people vomiting, regurlaly, i doubt you need them

>but it looks cool
ok, it does, but it effectively worsens the performance of your car.

also
>slooted rotors
dumb and stupid, don't do it. it worsens braking (less mass to stop the car) and they break faster (high temperature diferentials around holes)

there's a reason actual race cars use normal ventiladed brakes.

Not on a DD, you want comfy breaks, not over the top breaks.

If you really do drive your car to the absolute limit and feel it could brake better... yeah. Go for it. Brembo shit is like dre beats though. Nobody's even asked what car. That would really help

>"enthusiast" means spending money on modifications that don't need to be purchased; instead of spending it on something that would actually be a significant improvement for what you need the car for

you don't put a big brake kit on your daily because you need it, you do it because you have a little dick and want people to see your wheel/brake setup. its just bragging/cock measuring nonsense.

>muh brembos

you're literally making your car slower for the street, where you drive the car. all for a few thousand dollars

You're a retard literally just get a pair or brake pads for the front and your braking distance will decrease by like 20% already

Bbks are a meme

>get high performance rotors/pads
>very effective boi race stopping performance
>can replace them 10x for the price of the BBK

>if the brakes are lighter than the OEM ones, the car will change handling for the worst, because you've removed weight, if they're bulkier, same problem

Reducing unsprung weight has never ever been a bad thing.

>>slooted rotors
>dumb and stupid, don't do it. it worsens braking (less mass to stop the car)
the ability to dissipate heat is just as important as the ability to absorb heat. All brakes do is convert kinetic energy to heat energy.

>and they break faster (high temperature diferentials around holes)
slotted doesn't have holes.. it has slots. You are thinking of drilled.

Op here, I'm not planning to get race spec brembos lel. I was thinking about getting r33 gtr brembos and putting them on my s15. The car is my daily but I track it occasionally and want a bit better braking performance. How much more performance am I going to see from good pads? Currently running some standard bendix crap.

Do you mean the actual brembo calipers or the little 4pot calipers that were used on the skyline, patrol, wrx, and a bunch more i cant remember

>Are big brakes on a daily overkill?
Yes, absolutely.

Not only are they overkill for a DD but they are most likely overkill for your ability.

/thread

i always get slotted and drilled confused. not my first language so i learned the terms in a diferent language.

slotted is ok
drilled is stupid

If your regular brakes can lock up your wheels or trigger the ABS, they're more than adequate enough for your tire setup
You upgrade your brakes to they can maintain that performance on the race track and deal with the extra heat from abuse without failing

So no there's no point on a daily driver

Overkill the only thing you will get is a lot more expensive pads and rotors to replace later

quality tires > quality pads > big brake kit

Really, if you can lock em up and never felt brake fade better rubber will mean better stopping.

depends how you drive.
if you often find yourself thinking "I wish I had more stopping power" "Oh fuck my pedal's going soft" etc then do it.
S15 isn't like a 60s mini or something, where the stock brakes are borderline dangerous
If you drive like my mum then don't bother.

Only difference between big and regular brakes is how fast they'll overheat.

Do you tend to overheat your brakes?

this

desu I think modern cars could go back to non servo drum brakes and 99% of the population wouldn't notice/care.

Generating enough brake torque or 'stopping power' has never been the problem. It's the heat buildup after like, 3+ panic stops from 60 mph that calls for discs/bbks/other expensive wank.

Pic related, been drum braked since before you were born up till current day.

>Overkill the only thing you will get is a lot more expensive pads and rotors to replace later
This. I have eight brake pads on the front wheel. It's nice on a bike but it'd be a headache to have a similar situation in a car.

That's why you find a trim that came with them from the factory and if they don't exist for your car well then your car isn't a sport's car

Ever needed to stop 8 tons in a hurry? Drum brakes are your friend.

Someone recommend me high quality discs and pads just for a DD plz

i daily a car with 6 piston Brembos on blank rotors, and the intial brake bite is insane, i love it. i have only used them in anger once on the highway to avoid a wreck, and they braked so hard the 2 cars behind me swerved into the grass to avoid rear ending me. in that moment they were worth their weight in gold

Bigger and better brakes have almost now drawbacks. Of course they cost money, might be slightly heavier and you might need bigger wheels to accomodate them, but ultimately they only have benefits. Unless you go completely overboard and can't get them to temperature.

If you need that benefit is a different question, but, do you need airbags? You don't, but you still want to have them in case you want them some day. If you feel your brakes fading during general usage, even if it's just 10% of the time, upgrading brakes doesn't only make your car better, it also makes it more safe.

Your tires have more to do with stopping power than your brakes summer fag

i have brembos and have had regular calipers with carbon ceramic pads with slotted rotors and i can honestly say the big brakes work a bit better but not enough to warrant it unless you have somthing seriously expensive

I wouldn't mind upgrading my brakes to something a bit more heavy duty. I would keep it original though, like use discs or calipers that were used on the same car but on a higher end model.

Keep in mind you may or may not have to change other things like the master cylinder, etc. to adapt to the new hardware for optimal brake bias and whatnot. It costs money too.

Big brakes are great, but in an emergency panic stop kind of deal, they're only as good as your tires. My stock shitbox will lock the tires up with stock brakes as it is. Big brakes would do me no good in a panic situation.

If you go down hills a lot and can feel the brakes fading, big brakes could be useful. Or just duct tape some heater vent towards the ones you have now and avoid rain. That works too.

this is stupidity

just buy high performance brake pads and some slotted rotors OR cross drilled rotors, never buy rotors that are a combination of those 2

>you're stupid
>broisfine
Ironic. All you do is shitpost. Fuck off

>Brembo shit is like dre beats though
what are good brands for brake pads?

I have a 2002 civic si

Wow he never mentioned drilled or slotted you idiot

Bigger tires only work if your car doesn't let you lock up your tires. If you're stuck with ABS, then the tires wont do shit.

Good pads > wider rotors > tires

>If you're stuck with ABS, then the tires wont do shit.

that's not how ABS works you idiot

Hawk, edc are good and affordable

Yes, on a DD they are overkill. This guy is on the right track, but he seems to be taking BBKs way too personally for me to be able to take him seriously. Like a set of Brembos raped his mother or something. I would recommend against them if you're not tracking your car, but it wouldn't make me mad if you were considering them unlike that guy who probably has a 6-piston Brembo caliper literally lodged up his ass against his will as we speak.

BTW I have a Brembo BBK on my car but they're stock 4-piston Brembos from an SUV. So I've been on both sides of the fence. If I didn't track my car I wouldn't have done them. But I wasn't bullied relentlessly back in high school by some guy with Brembos on his car who constantly fucked my sister loudly in the room next to me while I was trying to sleep like the other poster so if you get some for your DD I will be ok with it.

>memo to plz remind me what ABS stands for

You're a fucking idiot. The point of ABS is to keep the tires at the limit of adhesion in order to stop in the shortest distance. If you get better tires, then the limit of adhesion has been raised, therefore you will have a shorter stopping distance.

most intelligent post in the history of Veeky Forums

What about swapping your rear brakes from drums to discs? I can take some rear discs from another car

what do you consider quality pads? Is there like a certain brand or type that's objectively better than the others?

if you can lock up your tires on dry pavement with your current brakes then there is literally no advantage to getting bigger brakes on a daily

>>handling benificts
>there are literally none.
>if the brakes are lighter than the OEM ones, the car will change handling for the worst
Unsprung weight reduction is bad now? Kek

>it worsens braking (less mass to stop the car) and they break faster (high temperature diferentials around holes)
Feel free to call me stupid but doesn't less weight=lower inertial-forces which means easier to stop

desu the masses you and the other guy are on about are too small to make a difference either way in terms of inertia

Yeah because the friction of a still tire grinding against asphalt is not as good as ABS

you don't know what you're talking about.

ABS means anti-lock brakes, which means the only thing it does is keep the brakes from locking.
>how
it doesn't (in a way). it actually just lock and unlocks the brakes so fast that you can't tell they're locking, so you can keep steering the car (unlike if they were locked)

the fastest way of braking (in the shortest distance) is threshold braking, just before the brakes lock (or ABS kicks in)

pick related are the 4 methods of braking and how they compare.

1.Threshold braking
2.ABS braking
3.Locked wheels
4.Cadence braking (same has ABS, only this time it's the driver causing the effect, instead of the ABS module)

forgot pic

>all these people who can't properly brake a car.

jesus, i though benchracing was a meme

Not many people have track time on here, seeing as it's not real enthusiasts on this board

err nope....
The idea of ABS is to allow the driver to retain the ability to steer around obstacles when they hammer the brake pedal
i.e. when a kid runs out in front of your car.

it's not about the weight. it's about the mass contacting the pads.

maybe in english it's something more like surface area?
less surface area=poor braking.

No.
Real world driving is different to driving on a track

>track driving is not real world driving

you can't make this shit up

wat?

on a track you go round and round the same bit of road endlessly.
You know the track conditions, you know your speed, the line through the corner, braking points and have time to prepare.

Not like real world driving at all.
Thats why people don't drive on the roads like they drive on track, dumb ass

when did i say that? or do you not know what "threshold" means?

>hurr what is friction
Hurrrrrrrrr

captcha: Please select all the images featuring hurr

so...will better tires on an ABS vehicle shorten the braking distance?

yes, just like any other vehicle.

yes, but:

a) it's still real world driving, since you're driving in the real world
b) you can easily apply tecnhiques you learned on the track while on the public road (ex: left foot braking, threshold braking, countersteering while oversteering, etc...)

also, you're missing some pretty great point about track driving. you have time to prepare yourself to the track, but not for the competition, or your onw mistakes. track driving is rellentless and requires a lot more concentration from the driver. not to mention the car. i've found myself making really stupid mistakes because i wanted to chase/overtake car x on the track, or not knowing my onw limitations.

track driving isn't just (learn the braking points and the racing line). especially since those will change drasticly with many nuances (are your tyres warm, are the brakes warm, are the brakes fading, is it raining, has it rained, how is the humidity, where is the car in front of me braking, does the car in front have better or worse brakes, is there oil, can i use the curbs, etc...)
thinking that just because you know a track's line you'll get the same result every time is not correct at all.

yes. in fact, better tyres will shorten braking distance on all vehicles.

This faggot thinks real life is Initial D

Yes, i feel you.
oem brembos are great got my full set with pads and rotors for less than 1k but i will be upgrading to akebono calipers once i start to track my car more

>no arguments
>better call him a faggot weeb

Yes. The more friction of a tire, the less braking needed to bring it to a stop. A larger contact patch (wider tires, less tread) means more friction. That's why racing cars drive with slicks because they allow for the maximum possible contact patch. Adding tread reduces the contact patch between tire and road (reductiong friction), but increases overall friction for road conditions by allowing liquids (mostly water, which is incompressible) a channel to divert to allowing the tire to maintain contact with the road surface, and to divert stones to the outside of the tier. This is why roads often have stones by the kerbs and in the middle because tire tread patterns divert them there.

Not really accurate. The brakes are going to have to absorb the same amount of energy whether the tire is a 165 or a 315. The only thing that really changes is how hard the brakes can clamp before it exceeds the traction of the tire.

No M8 you're just autistic

That's bullshit because when the a car slows under braking the weight shifts forward. The front tires must then resist this additional pressure which can cause them to break traction even when ABS is operating. Brakes have jack shit to do with how the tires deal with this.

You should always opt for a good tire over good brakes if you absolutely MUST sacrifirice one over another. A coasting car with good tires and resultant traction will come to a stop sooner than the same car coasting with shit tires and poorer traction. This should put things into perspective for you.

You must be retard

This. The only reasonable answer on here.
Wider tires dont mean shit unless friction is at a maximum (tires are not rotating when braking)
Tire friction only works when accelerating or hard braking

>opt for good tire over good brakes
oh boy, plz just stop

and turning.. but not due to friction.

>what is momentum?

>(tires are not rotating when braking)
if your tires are not rotating when braking, then you are not stopping as quickly as possible. you need the tires to be rotating to be using the maximum amount of friction between the rubber and the road.

>A coasting car with good tires and resultant traction will come to a stop sooner than the same car coasting with shit tires and poorer traction. This should put things into perspective for you.

Put what into perspective, rolling resistance?

Brakes are simple. They convert friction into heat. BBK's make this conversion more efficiently.

When I'm at the track I want that BBK (and high temp fluid) not because it stops me faster, but because it can handle a session and be consistent in performance and feel as temps build.

>When I'm at the track
this thread was discussing daily drivers and whether BBKs are worth it. No, you don't track your car. No, you don't experience brake fade daily driving. No, BBKs are not worth it on a daily.

>They convert friction into heat
they don't "convert" friction to heat, wtf else is friction going to create, ice?

It's something that has nothing to do with why wider tires help you turn. Want to try again?