What is the value of this rusted four bolt main 350 block?

Some have 2 bolt mains

take it to an engine shop, get the piston bores machined and the block cleaned of all rust if it hasnt rusted through important bits, it is worth something. if you want to actually get money out of it, you need to show it's worth something. but looking at all the bolt holes, the threads are all rusted to fuck and you'll need to fix each one. looking at it, i'd be surprised if rust had not eaten through the cylinder bores forming pinholes between the combustion chamber and water jacket.

its scrap.
cost more to have it machined, descaled, and checked than a 350 block is worth.

well if its been sitting there for a while it must be for a reason, its probably cracked somewhere and therefore worthless.

Probably about $20 if you drop it off at a scrapyard.

literally nothing

kek'd. Most accurate statement I've ever read on Veeky Forums.

A lot less than that my man.

The truest post in this thread. Assuming the rest has eaten away too much weight

Rust hasn't eaten away too much weight***

10$ if you're lucky

You could try to make it the base of a glass coffee table or something aristocratic like that. Something a car guy would want in his man cave.

But that takes skill...

What does that mean, a 4 bolt main?

What is the main?

4 bolts hold the bearing cap, the bearing that supports the crank shaft.

>What does that mean, a 4 bolt main?

>What is the main?

memes nigga

That makes it lighter, so faster and better

its trash

its all fucking trash dude, get over it and throw it all away

sand blast it and shit and make it look presentable and it might be worth $50

The main is something people who dont know about engines talk about. 4 bolt/2bolt really dosent matter. People will tell you otherwise, but it really dosent.

keeping the crank were it's supposed to be kinda matters

Ok kid keep driving your mom's civic

The shop time to clean it up to usable condition will cost more than a clean block from the junkyard.
It's scrap

Tie a long rope to it, use it as an anchor.

Throw it off a tall building and see what happens
Shoot it
Weld feet to it and store bottles in the cylinders

lol

He's not wrong.

Three fiddy hundered buckaroos, hands down. I know what I got, no low ballers.

>Weld feet to it and store bottles in the cylinders
This. It's worthless as is. Clean it up and make a grog stand out of it.

he's not right either.
that's why billet mains and girdles exist.
you don't NEED them, but they do work.

OEMs don't use 6 bolt mains or bedplate setups for the fun of it

It'd be cool to find a way to close the coolant channels and pump cold water through to cool the bottles

That would be very inefficient.

But COOL
It'd help you chill out

I think my local scrap yard pays about 5¢ a pound for iron. So maybe 5 bucks?

Apparently nobody in here has ever talked to a chevyfaggot. Their spiel always stats with "It's got a tree-fiddy, four bolt main..." which is then followed with " with camel humps , 30-30 cam and double pumper".

Every. Damn. Time.

This isn't 1970, bubba

2 bolt mains get a bad rap because of weak bolts and not the main itself.
a pro engine builder i know said his 327 sbc has 2 bolt mains that have held 600+ hp and 8500rpm for years.
dude was even using stock Rod bolts with ARPs.

>They all have 4 bolt mains

Electrolysys to remove the rust, followed with phosphoric acid treatment (naval jelly or concrete etch) to leave a phosphate finish inside the water jackets.

youtube.com/watch?v=zsiD4XKFLko

they wont break, just wear the bearings faster from the mains walking. i thought the original application was in towing vehicles and shit. anyway ive never talked to someone who even mentioned having a 4 bolt main.

>spray paint it orange
>put it on ebay as a 454 block
>cash dat $500 and close your account

To make it usable? Add boring, honing, line boring, magnaflux testing, decking

2 bolt mains get a bad rap because you have literally half of the clamping force of a 4 bolt main. 6 bolts are even better because not only do you have 4 clamp loads holding the cap to the block, but you have 2 additional clamp loads perpendicular of the crankshaft forces to keep the torsional forces of a high speed high torque crank throw in check.

factory four bolt mains is almost useless over factory two bolt mains. i always loved up-charging customers for the four bolt mains they demanded. but i ran two bolt mains in basically all of my winning roundy round engines.

I don't know if it applies to all small block Chevys, but with a 400, the 2 bolt main block is actually more desirable for a performance build. Not because the 2 bolt is stronger stock, but because the extra 2 bolts on the 4 bolt block go into a weak area of the casting and have a tendency to fail under heavy loads. With the 2 bolt block, you can drill for splayed main caps and turn it into a 4 bolt, and after that it'll be stronger than a stock 4 bolt main block ever could be.

Tell them that

dad get off Veeky Forums

dinner is ready

For most engines it doesn't really matter

The block will crack in half before the bolts fail

it's not about bolts failing, it's about things moving a fraction of a mm out of tolerance under large forces

I bought an engine like that from a boomer when I was doing a rebuild. I didn't know much better and he told me it could be rebuilt and bored over...

Took it to the machine shop and they just looked at me. I paid like $100 bucks for it and it was 50 miles away, so it wasn't worth wasting another half a day to try to get my money back and then lose $100 in gas.

See, this dude gets it.

I would give you like $5 for it and then either turn it into a coffee table or drop it off a tall building just to see what happened.

Yeah this is just an example of terrible GM engineering.

related, are there any vehicles that you can rip big blocks out of like what you used to be able to do with ls'?

>ITT people who have no idea what it means to hot tank an engine.
It's not a piece of sheet metal you fags, it is a fucking engine block. Once it's tanked then you can see if it's usable or not.

Why would you go through all that when you can buy a brand new LS engine that actually works?

>why would you go through all that?
Hauling a bare block to an engine builder to have it dipped in a tank to see if it's usable? It's like $100 man.
Now if you are talking about building a SBC vs LS1 I guess it depends on the application. For instance a circle track car might require the 350 because of rules.
Also don't believe the $500 and a weekend meme, you can still build a 350 on a shoestring budget and make comparible power to a LS for less money.

How does an SBC differ from an LS1?
Gm noob here

>Hauling a bare block to an engine builder to have it dipped in a tank to see if it's usable? It's like $100 man.
See

>dip block in tank
>inspect to make sure it is usable
Unless you are balancing and blueprinting a race engine, this is all that is necessary.

Tank of what?

>spend $100 to hot tank a block that may be shot, or may require another $500 in machine work to be usable
OR
>find a complete 350 in known running condition at the junkyard for $300

Your move, retard

Chemically removes all rust and gunk. It's actually called hot tanking, and most engine shops offer the service, it's nothing new, they've been doing it for like 40 years.

>may require another $500 in machine work to be usable
>implying your $300 JY block won't need the same thing
>retard

Use it as a garden ornament.

>Close off the bottom with some sheet metal
>Put it on a small pedestal by your door
>Fill it up with dirt
>Grow small plants in the cylinder bores
>I recommend Strawberry plants, or some type of pretty flowers your nigger-loving wife likes.

But it's from muh youth! It's going to be worth something, right?

The problem is tank dipping doesn't do fuck all for all the pitting that rust leaves.

So dipping a block is worthless it it is anything beyond surface rust.

Pitting only an issue on the machined surfaces, that would be resurfaced anyway if it is being rebuilt.
You are right however, if the scoring is too bad on the journals and bore it would be unusable, but most blocks that look like OPs pic can clean up fine.

I roached a block when a main bearing spun.
But the block already had a lot of machining done to it for my build- was easier and cheaper to machine down the journal and pin in a new one then replace the block. New journal looks like a giant bearing shell.
Cylinders can be sleeved.
You seriously have to grenade a block before its unusable, although usually cheaper to start with something else.