Do american cars still use standard size or do they finally use metric like the rest of the world?

do american cars still use standard size or do they finally use metric like the rest of the world?

i have gotten a job working at a livery fleet which is mostly ford e-series vans. all of my tools are metric. i just wonder if they will work or not

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idk but those wreches are dank

Most American cars switched over to metric in the early 90s

>TFW you have to have both sets to work on some cars

>not owning both sets anyway

While they LOOK cool. They also are definitely head strippers.

The sockets I'll accept but as soon as you put a pipe over one of those spanners you better get ready to turn a 10 mins job into 3-4 hours.

my 95 ford was a complete mix-and-match of metric and imperial. It was painful.

This. I think literally everything but the bleeder nuts on the brakes and the big ass fucking like 1 3/4" drown plug on the transfer case in my '92 Cherokee is metric.

>owning anything that requires metric tools in the first place.

If you see any SAE stuff on newer American cars it's normally because the engine design is 15 years old, everything that's been redesigned or updated in the last few decades is metric. Lots of tools still use SAE (presses, pullers, etc) so you need some SAE stuff no matter what as a tech in the US even if you only service foreign cars.

Almost always metric for everything.


but you need a full set of standard everything as well. but you won't use them that much

>put a pipe over one of those spanners
They have a certain length handle for a reason

[citation needed]

I have this tool set. Ive never stripped anything with it even when using a fence post as a breaker bar.

>asking for reason or relevant experience from a person that started a sentence with "as soon as you put a pipe over one of those spanners"

6pt strongest 12pt weak, those.... Fuck that.

>A 2 finger pull on a 8 inch wrench, until 3 threads are visible on the end of the bolt
youtube.com/watch?v=V2D3k0sJ8HM

In 15 years of wrenching, many of those years 50 weeks a year 40 hours a week, I've never had a single issue with a 12pt box or socket stripping something. If you are having issues with a nut or bolt use a penetrant or a torch. If you are putting pipes on short open end wrenches you are doing it wrong. It's not very difficult to use tools correctly and not have problems caused by your own misuse of them.

god damn they just had 50 dudes drag all the bits out into the dirt with rope and crowbars and bolt it together

it was a simpler time

I've stripped plenty with a 12pt, even with a torch and kroil, I guess my shit just goes harder than yours?
Pic related, how to remove a piece you strip with a 12pt

That's because you live were things don't rust.

Try living in the salt belt where you need the hotwrench on 5 year old cars.

12pts are pretty useless

My gf got me this set for Christmas to have a tool set in my DD since I keep all of my tools at home in my tool chest. I've helped 2 people on the side of the road so far and both have complimented me on them. I love how versatile they are too. Spline? No problem. 12 point? No problem. Standard hex? No problem. Dank indeed

They use both, it's a craftsman conspiracy to make us buy more tools.

And nowadays:
>[Phenom 300s cannot fly through areas where the USAF might be testing signal jamming equipment because] apparently the yaw damper has a GPS layer in its logic, with no non-GPS fallback. So when you lose GPS signal, you no longer have a yaw damper. Which also means you're no longer RVSM [Reduced Vertical Separation Minimum] capable, you no longer have an autopilot, and most of your glass cockpit tells you to fuck off.

I have this set too, the only thing I hate is that it doesn't come with a 12mm socket wtf?? Otherwise it's a decent set

I used those exact wrenches the first time I fixed my own car (borrowed tools).

Almost stripped my alternator tensioner bolt

>6pt master race

>no ratchet spanners

No 12? wtf

>Be me
>Buy set
>10-11-12-13-14-15-17-19-21-22mm 1/2" sockets
>extra 10-11-12-13mm 1/4" sockets
>2x 11mm
>no 16-18-20mm sockets

20 might not be that common, but why exclude 16&18 and include 2x fucking 11mm

U mirin?

I like them for hard to get to-places, even though the joint makes them a little unstable at high torque.

Why would you add a joint to a mechanism as floppy as a ratchet spanner?

why would you ask a retarded ass question like that?
It's almost as if you've never used a wrench...
Hmm

...The order came down to assemble the Thunderbolts.
"I'll go get some torque wrenches!" said Scotty.

Scotty didn't know what the fuck he was talking about and was ignored as the hammers, shifters and crow bars were handed out.

Almost. Stay amateur.

Actually not amateur, I work in a shop desu.

yeah so come to toronto and watch yourself go broke buying penetrating oil and acetylene my man. or use a socket

They look like good tools, if it weren't for the giant "Craftsman" badge on them.

"Oh fuck yeah, I'll use these wrenche- Ohfuckcraftsmangetitthefuckawayfrommytoolcrib.

Why would you label your fucking tool box?

Work boxes constantly evolve way too fucking fast to bother labeling anything.

I'm thinking you're still an apprentice.

>being this new

16mm is literally 5/8. Just use that instead

I would, but the set's metric only.

>evolve way too fast
Well, one of us is an apprentice, but I finished my apprenticeship 4 years ago.

Here from the rust belt. I have never had a nut strip from a 12pt that I wouldn't strip regardless. Open end wrenches are usually the culprit.

for a while they had metric on the body and suspension
and imperial on the engine
but if you really want a hell of mixed gauge and thread try British and soviet cars

They've been metric for a good 3 decades now, with the exception of spark plugs

I had a '68 BSA. Metric, Whitworth and Imperial sizes.

find morris minor 1000 in shed
runs but needs panel work and a little adjustment to be road worthy

taking it apart I find it has bsf bolts in bsw threads
>tfw someone been here before and wrecked some of the threads

>further investigation
its a van converted into a pick up and thus has a wiring loom from two models and three diffident years
oh lord plz have mercy

Honestly, user, I wish you the best of luck. Are you coming to Brit/o/ to drive the Tick with us in your frankenstein Moggy?

>Honestly, user, I wish you the best of luck.
thanks it is very nearly ready the body work was just slightly rusty panels that were deemed structural and the threads had to be re cut with a tap
I've finished all the other bits like the breaks and cooling system just one or two lamps to demystify given how confusing old wiring diagrams are

>Are you coming to Brit/o/ to drive the Tick with us in your Frankenstein Moggy?
would love to but I am in New Zealand

Modern American cars are Metric. But... Living in the rust belt, some standard sockets fit on metric bolts due to rust buildup/deteriotian. Also that Craftsman set in OP's pic is shit, I have it.

>mostly ford e-series vans.
Have fun with those spark plugs.

Pretty much this, was workin on a 98 Civic and a bolt had rusted down to from a 12mm to jus a bit larger than a 11mm, so I used a 7/16 and it was just right.

hydraulic/fluid bits on US cars oddly stick to imperial, dunno why.

>Tall box
Poor form

So question about tools. Are spline socket, spline wrenches worth the cost to say having separate metric and imperial/sae set?

having the correct size 6point is always better than anything else out there.

why? how hard are we talking?

>be truck mechanic in glorious Canada
>buy wrench kits up to 1,25" big, and then have to buy individual bigger wrenches up to 2,5"
>buy only master sets of sockets in 1/2 drive (the ones that have ALL the sockets starting from smallest to biggest)
>buy both the shallow and the deep socket sets
>also buy the master 3/8 drive sets, and at least a half decent 1/4 set for working inside the cabin
>buy all of the above in imperial AND metric
>also be forced to buy dozens of individual specialized sockets such as 12 point thin walls, 12 point driveshaft sockets, etc etc etc
>oh and did i forget to mention that after a few years of work you WILL end up having all of those in both impact and regular chrome version?
>after 4 years end up with over 1k in just sockets
and i swear to god i use pretty much all of those on a regular basis.
and i use Dynamic brand wrenches (it's a gray tools company 'economy' line) and i never stripped anything with the 12 point that wasn't meant to be stripped. what i mean is, i've never put my 12 point on something that looked like rusted crap, and be surprised that it stripped when it did. you just KNOW when the bolt/nut is gonna round. if it looks like shit, don't put a fucking 12 point on it. get a 6pan, ideally a socket with a breaker bar. when i dgaf about the fasteners (which is pretty much always) i use the impact on full power, and even the 10-year-old-rust bolts frequently come out if they were high-grade to begin with. but if they are not high grade, if they are rusted, if they are on an exhaust item that causes heat/cool cycles, then i just don't behave like an ape and use the proper box and heat it till it's bright and pink. like this guy says, use your tools correctly, and you won't have problems.