Eurocucks will defend this shit

The part the bolts/studs go into is the lug. But wheel bolts/nuts is how I always called it

There is literally no difference.

spotted the eurocuck

>damage bolt
>new disc or hub because thread is fucked and helicoil won't fit

>damage stud/nut
> $10 from auto zone and half an hour on a jack

Spotted the moron who will defend hanging wheels by the thread.

Its ok, i dont expect normies to understand

Thanks, would have never guessed that, we call that bit the flange.

The hole is a much stronger material than the bolt itself, you would have to royally fuck up to damage the threads in the flange.

You do it in either case. There is no fucking difference.

Better than the wheel fucking falling off once you take the last bolt out. As opposed to taking the last nut off and it just hangs there

The times bolts have gone tits up for me is when it was seized or over tightened and the bolt has snapped off. A bolt snapping is a bigger and more expensive issue than a stud snapping

Except that on bolt cars the wheel will rest on the hub.

Nope. Centering hub sticks out no more than 5mm on nearly all of them and they easily tilt and fall off it. There are a few that are longer to hold it on but thats just inefficient in the grand scheme of things

>times
>breaking wheel bolts on multiple occasions

Put the impact wrench down, Cleetus. I know it looks like a gun but it won't solve all your problems.

Ive been a qualified mechanic for 10 years, most things happen more than once after that period of time. Im not removing all your shitty fucking wheel bolts by hand on your 20yo bimmer though, time is money

there is a downside in that a cross threaded lug bolt can ruin the wheel hub.

the solution is to not be a idiot and hand thread the bolts a bit before shooting them back on.

I worked in a tire shop. it's easy to avoid.

I absolutely fucking hate lug bolts. My 99' A4 didn't have them, but my 11' A4 does and it drives me up a wall.

I had to get adapters to fit these spiked lug nuts on there, but the kit from SickSpeed was Grade A Garbage and ended up doing more harm than good.

Since no one makes any decent "tuner" lug bolts, I'm stuck with using caps or replacing all of my hubs.

THEEEE FUCK this is real?

Fucking yuros, man.

b-but I AM a yuro D':

That looks awful, what the fuck

But it makes mounting your wheels so much easier

My Saab has those, although they're hex heads. Still a bitch to get the wheel on alone, and I really don't see why they wouldn't just use studs.

You're a eurokek but I'm working with a broken wheel stud right now and right now bolts are looking superior

See
Should be a cheap part

>bleed valve on top of painted caliper

But why, Porsche?

its faster and easier to bleed brake caliper with the bleeder on top. Air bubbles travel upwards so you don't have to pump through and waste as much fluid.

If you're working on a porsche you probably have the money for a cheap set of bleeder reservoir bottles anyways.

There's nothing wrong with bolts though. It simplifies the wheel mounting by just having hub/wheel/bolt instead of hub/stud/wheel/nut.

Rubber hose and a catch bottle, you would have to be a Veeky Forums tier autist to just squirt brake fluid everywhere.

Not since the early eighties.

>any year
>anything but centerlocks

There is no advantage to using bolts over nuts.
I fucking hate removing that last bolt and having the wheel fall down.

There's a reason why nuts are used in motorsports.

No it doesnt

I kind of like bolts more in and of them selves. But if dipshit mcgee tire tech fucks up a nut ona bolt both can easily be replaced. I need to get a new hub because a dumb fuck cross threaded two.

Except it does, I've done it both ways and it's far easier to get the wheel in with an alignment tool

Pressed in?

Implying they dont thread into the hub like any stud with some red cuck tite

If you have ten years experience, you should have learned by now to use fuckin antisieze when you put them in or if they are hard to get out you do a tack weld on the head to heat the bolt rapidly and release the binded threads....

If you need different lengths bolts/studs for different sets of wheels you'll be glad you dont have to press new studs every change.

That implies that ALL hubs on cars with wheel bolts are longer than ALL hubs on normal cars with studs. Holy shit, you're dumb for a eurocuck

You don't use antisieze on lugs. You can't get a proper torque on them. Any penetrating oil will do the same thing that antisieze will, and it won't affect torque. Maybe you should learn this kind of shit before you call out a professional.

>get new allows
>studs are now too short

what now dumblords

>put in from the rear
>washers and a nut on the other side
>impact that bitch
There you go, new stud.

this is mezmerizing

I said when taking them out. Not every car i do has been to my shop before. Some have been to pajeet the roadside mechanic previously

I fucking hate this so much. I've only ever seen it on European cars. You know. Because on a European car, nothing is simple.

>allows
kek

>eurocucks

>i hope i sound like i know what im talking about.

When I worked at a tire store I used to hate when these pulled in. Serious pain in the ass to wrestle with the wheel and try to get a bolt in.

In fairness, there's a special tool that's just a plastic stud type thing that you slide in and makes putting the wheel on a hell of a lot easier. But, like in most shops, special tools always go missing. The shop I worked at, guys would keep throwing them out because they thought it was just a junk piece of plastic.

Ya i hear your pain, try the tack weld trick tho before you try to crank them, doing a few tacks on the head will heat up the bolt quicker than using a torch and having a greater temp difference with its surroundings aswell. Get a wrench on it asap and give it a few hits with a dead blow and will most often get it going for you. Chilling it with nitrogen or using a large air duster (surprisingly) upside down has done wonders for me out in the field.
Maybe something a bit more productive benchracer.
I know more about tourques and torque specs for specific graded bolts and rod stock then you can comprehend. Yes you can get a proper torque on bolt with anti seize. It is where you apply the anti seize is where most commoners fuck up on by slooping it over the entire threads, where it is to be applying on wheel bolts or critical exposed fastenters is at the bottom 5- 15 % of the threads near the head of the bolt that is exposed to the elements. I dont get shuttled across the continent doing crittical inspections/repairs on machinery worth more than the average budget of a f-1 team, and not know what the fuck im doing. I suggest you cease your uneducated bluffs and maybe do some research.

this 2bh

Are you saying you like lug bolts because your retarded ass had a wheel fall off when you only used half the original hardware to hold the wheel on?

Veeky Forums

Stop putting alloys on your ricer shitbox that came with steelies, or just get longer studs and stop being a bitch.

you know steel is an alloy, right?

On most old GM cars you can just replace the rotor, they come with studs already in them instead of the rotor having holes to go over the studs. Probably cheaper to buy a $20 rotor (and be able to mount it yourself) than getting new studs installed at a shop.

You can't bleed from the bottom.

>driving in friends m3 at night
>gets a flat
>change tire
>spend 10 minutes trying to align the wheel in the dark

Fucking helll

A stud and a nut is stronger and studs make wheels easier mount and dismount.

There is literally no reason to use bolts over studs/nuts to hold a wheel assembly to a hub

>antiseize
>on lug BOLTS of all things

holy fuck thank god you're not a mechanic

user i know you're an engineer and that we should trust you, but There is a difference in experience from someone who takes off/puts on tires 5-7 days a week for several years and someone who "gets shuttled across the continent" doing repairs and inspections on machinery (aka not a million cars with lug bolts, machinery). While you have some relatable experience, you do not have direct exposure to these problems every single day.

ikr

>"tuner" lug bolts
You are a God damn faggot.

Pressed in wtf you talking about. We don't do the shit. Put the stud in the hub get 4 washers and a lug nut put the washers on the stud, hand tightened the nut.
Grab your 1/2 Ingersoll rand impact and tighten it

Americucks will defend this shit.

No its not.

the bolts almost always snap where the cone meets the threads and you have to do is pull the other other bolts and wheel off and pull whats left off.

You clearly are not a mechanic.

Its almost physically impossible to cross thread it and not know it.

Working on a car was never so easy!

>removing the last bolt and having the wheel fall down

I've never actually had this happen to me, the wheel mounts on a central hub that holds it in place with friction
Sometimes I have to use a mallet to get the wheel off