Alright Veeky Forums

Alright Veeky Forums
I'm currently gonna attempt to weld some rust holes on my car and would like any advice you guys might have. I'm doing it on a 92 miata and it's in the rear rocker panel and one behind the rear passenger wheel well. Bought some galvanized steel and bondo body filler. I was gonna plug weld but wanted any tips you might have. I'll post the areas I'm working on in the comments

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1. you don't want galvanized steel
2. cut all of that area out
3. spray the inside and backside of your patch pieces with weld through primer
4. clean the paint off and clean your patch piece well
5. fit it up, will need a few clamps for that awkward spot
6. weld it in
7. grind it
8. paint with self etch primer

What's the structural integrity for rust replacement welds? Assuming quality material welded in, of course.

>that cancer
Cut it all out, OP. It's the only way to be sure.

Now that I get a better look at the area, I would cut straight across above the rust, and either get/make a patch panel but preferably cut one out of another car. At the top I would use an undercut to make a backing for a butt weld, then do plug wells in the door frame , fender lip, and bottom

These days there are factory specs for the timing of plug welds depending on what method you are using, exact procedures for doing structural overlaps like on A pillars with multiple layers, they not only have it 100% as good as the car is new, they take steps to not accidentally make it too strong and compromise the areas that are designed to deform.

So, basically, everything is replaceable, without consequence? As long as you know what you're doing.

Not necessarily, most high strength steel and hydroformed steel frames cannot be heated, or if they can it's only to 800f or so, so if there is damage to the point they can't be pulled cold they can't be repaired, and you can't weld cracks in them. Some insurance companies wouldn't cover certain repairs as well, like a bent floor in a convertible.

Curious why you picked galvanized?

thanks user, i really do appreciate the help. Im currently trying to get rid of the end pieces that are all rough. I will cut that square block of rust on the bottom right soon. Once I do that Ill learn howto do butt well and plug weld. Do you have any suggestions on how I can get that bend in the metal at the bottom?

I heard that galvanized steel is good for making sure there is no corrosion in the future. Plus, this is what they had at home depot

So it rust ten times worse after welding

The best way to do it is either cut it out of a parts car or find access to a big press to cut it out of mild steel. With galvanized steel you have to remove all the galvanization around the weld anyway, plus it's almost certainly the wrong gauge, primer won't stick to it, and even if you think you ground off all the galvanization you probably will miss some which will fuck up your weld and have you breathing toxic fumes.

What's your welding experience?

You do not need to remove the galv to weld.

Galv does not make primer fall off.

Welding a patch panel to a car from galv will not give you cancer from the fumes.

Literally none. Never once touched a welder ever. My dad has one but it's one that you plug into an electrical outlet. I'm just a enthusiast trying to restore my car to some degree without becoming broke. It's a miata so I'm not treating it like a Ferrari

Update: so my dad said that the small hole was gonna be a huge pain in the ass and that I should bondo that area. Again, never used bondo ever for anything so I looked up a video on YouTube and went from there. Here's what I have right now and in about 25 minutes I'm gonna sand with 60 grit sandpaper and then like 160 grit after

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>self etch
This isn't 1970 bro, he should be using epoxy primer or bondo.
Primer goes over bondo, bondo can go on top of epoxy primer, not self etch primer.
He's gonna need bondo for sure no doubt about that.
After you block that bondo you can use self etch if you don't have any real shit.

>didn't sand to bare metal before applying bondo
Dun goofed there

>people still prefer steel over aluminum alloy bodies
More proof that aluminum alloys are better than steel.

>his truck isn't made from HIGH STRENGTH STEEL

>his """""high strength" """""steel silverado isn't a top safety pick

Sorry I didn't post a picture of that but I did grind it down to bare metal

hi fonzie

aluminum alloy>steel

it's so easy to bring you out, just mention something that may or may not be GM-related and you jump right on it

Don't shoot the messenger. I'm just informing informing people that the F150 is better than the Silverado. Some people may not be able to handle the truth but I'll still tell it.

Hi Alphonse

if I feel like derailing a thread I don't even have to do it myself, just mention GM and watch the shitstorm commence

Hi, senpai.
I doubt this discussion will derail the thread. GM fans as of late have just accepted that GM is shit. They don't even argue.

I'd say the thread's derailing pretty hard already, it's only a matter of time before someone attacks you for derailing it now

Hi OP, Funny enough I was doing the exact same job on my '91 Miata today as a first time welder, pic related there's the panel I welded in for the outer sill.

Pretty much this is what I did. Bear in mind however that Miata sills rust from the inside out so you'll need to make up replacement panels for the inner sill and the other braces inside, the outer sill isn't designed to be a structural member.

What type of welder are you using?

Forgot Pic.

The thing isn't too powerful. I'd have to grab it tomorrow but your work looks interesting in a good way. So you're a first time welder as well. Since you actually got to finish yours... What type of welding did you do? I just got that circle area done with bondo because it was gonna be impossible to weld