G/o/re thread

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My car understeered, then oversteered, then I hit a parked car.

Here's the parked car.

Aluminium friendo

They're aluminum blocks. Ecotec 2.4 litre

>ecotec
Holy shit. WTF happened? Those are normally bulletproof reliable engines!
Did they run it with no oil for a time?

RIP PULSAR

;_;7

Are most of them from lack of oil or wat?

>"ran when parked"

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if you look closely, you can tell it was fucked from the second it was molded
shrinkage cracks, and highly porous appearance(looks like molded polystyrene because the metal started to cool too much before it even got into the mold leaving little chunks of granules of cooled oxidized metal bonded together with metal that was still liquid enough to fill the void between the grains), it should've never made it past QC, but it looks like it did

no idea about that specific image, but metal casting especially aluminum is a massive pain in the ass, and if the machines aren't dialed in, you get shit like that, and if the QC inspector doesn't know what they are looking for we get the shit end of the stick

My car is now rocking what I call LTD, Limited Tooth Differential, I'm sad but will fix it when I can afford. Also synchros are shot so I gotta double clutch everything now.

No low ballers, no tire kickers. I know what I got.

I know gen 1 Ecotecs used lost foam casting for the heads and blocks. The 2.4 was a second gen though. I know gen 3 engines switched to sand-casting, but I think the gen 2's were still lost foam.

Don't really want to sell, make me an offer

i pulled my car out of storage of 2 years because i desperately needed a car to get around for job interviews and my primary is at the transmission shop

After a week it started developing a lifter tick from 2 year old thick sludgy oil. I still need to get around, stores are closed from public holiday today and im driving with a bad lifter tick

how much longer can i drive for until this becomes a major problem? i want to do it asap but i have no time

it had 25-65 in it, but when i do my oil change should i go back to 20-50?

I could take a picture of the underside of my car and it would be top-tier gore, but I'm too lazy to do it which is why my car is broken in the first place.

What do you drive that runs oil that thick?

Regardless, you shouldn't be using oil that old at all.

Just today while I was getting my tires changed this guy in a hemi ram broke his drive shaft in half. Seriously all he did was put it in reverse, then you heard this loud clunk like he hit somebody, and there was his drive shaft just laying on the floor. dodge, not even once.

>tiny rocks being flung into the passenger compartment
>Driving on a rainy day have to wear a raincoat inside your car

ke30

someone told me to go thicker with older cars, so i went thicker, but changing the oil should definately fix it

drying through a forest fire during an evacuation
interior catches fire and you're ablaze like like hell on earth for being such a LOWLIFE faggy tramp stamp

Stick with 20-50. I wouldn't put heavier oil in an engine unless it's really worn out. Just hope you haven't done any permanent damage trying to lubricate your engine with tar.

worse that can happen is flattened cam lobes right?

..right?

I accidentally the entire ute, is this bad?

really need to flip this car, priced to sell fast

10/10

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>My dad's truck has a constant oil and needs to get topped off every now and then
>Dad likes to get drunk and rev the engine like a madman
>Gets drunk one day
>Revving it like a mad man
>Low oil
>Knock knock knock
>Who's there?
>Bearings
>Bearings who?

>ran when parked

I have to be that guy. What is this? Driveshaft?

This Kills the Chevrolet.

>freshened up a 454 for grandfather's truck we're restoring
>new cam, heads, bearings, rings, etc.
>thought we broke in the cam
>had to readjust rockers because slight tick before driving it to show
>drove it to car show the next weekend
>overheating and running rough pulling into the show
>left the show after letting it cool down and walking around the show
>10 minutes from the show on the interstate it looses all oil pressure, running rough as shit, light black smoke coming from exhaust
>tow it home
>tear engine back down to find it had chewed through 3 lifters and cam lobes, metal from those went through shitty fram filter and tore up all bearings throughout engine
>now 4 weeks later we rebuilt it again with new cam, lifters, crank, and bearings and is running great.
big difference this time is we used break-in oil, and broke the engine in by the instructions.
>tl;dr read the instructions.

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Not really gore, but I had bought an intake for my old inline 6 from a swap meet. The intake is supposed to have 2 holes in the bottom of it for a water jacket in the intake to keep fuel from condensating inside. Noticed they were plugged at the show. Just the other day I started cleaning the holes out and found that they were plugged with gum and nickels.

Who thought it would be a good idea to make an engine out of Styrofoam?

Saw you in other thread.
Its still funny though.

>Trying to remove a drain plug on my SBC 350 after a rebuild.
>Internet says it can be removed with a 3/8 ratchet.
>Put it 3/8th ratchet and spin it.
>...
>It is not 3/8ths and the shitty ass metal just stripped and is now a circle...
>Try to drill it out with a bolt remover
>Doesn't work
>Confined space and accidentally get the tail end of the threads
>bolt remover isn't removing it...
>Pull out the hammer and chisel
>6 hours later it is rotating out.

>I get pissed off at it and being stubborn doesn't help
>Say I'm going to remove this shit by the end of the day after dealing with it for months and ordering the wrong size bits to remove it properly.
>In my anger, I chisel to far in and get the threads and a portion of the head.

Couldn't resist.

Does this count?

A drain plug in the head?
Also- one trick to getting out stuck plugs is heating them with a propane torch. Plugs usually have loctite on them and heat will loosen the loctite.

YESFUCK

>only rolled once

brbcommittingsuicide

So much pollution. sigh

desu those lights would probably be nice on a stock white one...

Wish I had my old roter to show you guys.
Piston blew on my caliper on the way down from work, had to tough it out and drive home because I'm a retard. Brake pad was completely wore down on one side and grooved the shit out of it. Thought it was my bearing.

Local idiot wouldn't listen to me about changing his electronic shifter in his transfer case. Blew his 4Hi engagement clutch out.

Temp sensor plug* whoops

It was cast in a foam mold.

you know modern oils don't work with flat tappet lifters right?
shit dont have the ZDDP like old oils did.

only the rotella diesel oils have the zinc needed for old flat tappets

Transmission, 4th gear crushed. It was a shitbox so it was expected

I lowered my truck

What's my gap again?

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No, no they don't, they have reduced levels as of years ago. You're only safe using a zinc additive.

During break in, it is crucial to use break in additives or oil, afterwards you can run conventional oil but the zinc and phosphorus will help slow down that wear and tear.

>do not use synthetic oil for break in or first 500 miles on flat tappet cams (see engine/cam break in instructions incase otherwise stated)

>do some research on ZDDP content of additives

>personally i use about a quarter of a bottle of Lucas Break In Oil on a fresh 350, no issues after 5500 and counting abused miles

I got tetanus just by looking at this.

>took my th350c in for a rebuild after shop sold me wrong one off the shelf
>come back next day to pick it up
>they tell me the pump was cracked and fucked
>planetary gears destroyed
>teeth missing off every gear (still shifted and drove fine, oddly)
>input shaft was fucked too

Posted this before, but here's my rekt oil sump after overtightening the tranny mounting bolt at the bottom because I'd forgotten the spacer plate that goes there. Good times (not really).

That's not a big deal though, no? You can just tap a new thread and get a bigger bolt.

Used comp cams break-in oil while breaking it in. Changed the oil immediately afterwards to a conventional and added a break-in/zinc additive. Then we changed the oil again after driving it for 50 miles with convetional and the additive. So far no weird noises. Only problem we're having now is it overheating. With the small radiator we have in the truck, it isn't able to keep the engine cool while sitting in traffic. We're about to add a second radiator under the bed of the truck to see if that solves the problem.

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...........lol

Materials Science Engineer here. There is a process called lost foam casting (look up lost wax casting for comparable process). That surface texture could be a result of this process.

However, I didn't think any manufacturers used the process as it is still fairly expensive. Most engine casting is done in sand molds.

I agree with the guy who said this should never have made it past QC. That grain structure and crystallization is ridiculous. This shit was just waiting to break in a dramatic fashion.

>americans

neither of those cars are sold in the US. Try again.

>americans

I'll give you about tree fiddy for that raptor in the background

That's awesome. If you cant park you deserve this.

>oil pan made from cast potmetal

>understeered in a fucking parking lot
must have been using a non factory approved tyre size.

Also, that Swift you crashed into is probably a total loss as far as insurance is concerned.
Somebody is going to buy it for €800, spend €400 on repairs and sell it for €4000

Looks like a pool cleaners truck.

I used to work near a pool cleaning company that had a big banner up that said

> Failure to hose off you truck at the end of your shift is a terminable offense.

It is used actually, BMW uses that method regularly.

It's not a raptor. It's a kid's I 80cc yamaha.
:^[

Since when does Batman drive a Honda?

Well, shit. Learn something new every day.

Valvoline VR-1 oil has high zinc

I just use regular oil with a separate zinc additive. Can't get the Valvoline Race oil anymore in my area (didn't try online, NAPA pulled it off the shelves though)

My carquest has it and will order it for me if its out if stock

>materials science engineer here
you dont need to be an engineer to know what lost foam casting is, bro. as evident by the two poster who already answered

and taking a materials course your freshman year does not make you an engineer bub

The car did it's job, thankfully everyone is fine except for minor bruises.

pinion nut came loose and the pinion shaft did some heavy dirty dancing with the carrier. just tightened the nut and loctited it and now it works

got sandwiched between a semi and another car while stopped in traffic. Was a good car, taught me how to drive stick. Lot of memories...

another one

Funny story actually. I'm a Tow op, and I had to roll a car like that once that sat on its roof for a good hour or two before I was called. In situations like this the fire department never bothers to disconnect the battery because its a write off anyway, but buddy was insisting it was fine.

So I roll it over, and one of the fire fighters I'm friends with comes over to chat. Suddenly we both hear a starter go. Buddy that owns the car tried to fucking start it. Suffice to say, the loud bang as the pistons all bent themselves to shit was pretty great.

The best part was he still insisted it was fine and just needed to sit, so he had me tow it back to his house. Then the next morning he called and complained that I broke his car because it wont start anymore.

>those fucking stickers everywhere

more stories pls

obligatory for all honda owners.

say what you will, I had a lot of fun with that car.