What did you do to your car today Veeky Forums?

What did you do to your car today Veeky Forums?
I sanded the machining marks out of my wheels then buffed em.
Next is paint ofc.

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>ordered a shitload of parts
>got my buddy to meet up with the trucker and loaded it onto the flatbed
>crying myself to sleep out of happiness because after 2 years I will finally get to have my baby back as my dd
I literally can't sleep I am so excited

Bruh that's a pretty fucking good day damn

I am pretty hype. it is going to take some work, but it will be great to have this thing again

Pretty sweet shitbox

Wired up the third brake light. Got new foglight bulbs and radiator hoses. Gonna drain the water tomorrow and put in coolant as well as run the hood release cable. Then pull out seats and reinstall carpet.

I agree

I got my DD fuckus started after sitting for a year with a dead alternator, dead battery, bad ground and bad fuses. For some reason the radiator fans won't kick on but it's a DD i don't push it. It already has bad motor mounts and vibrates like your mom's dildo. Also found a valve gasket leak in my g35, going to fix that this weekend

Bunch of sound deadening

75% of my driving is highway, so I figured I'd go for comfy as possible.

Fucking god tier investment. There's no difference between 35mph and 90mph no as far as road noise goes. About 50% exhaust/engine noise.

Put some under the rear deck and door panels too.

Debating on putting some on the fire wall under the carpet

I farted in the seats for an hour straight

Not driving. I just sat in my car and farted, making sure to get every single seat. Now my car smells like comfy.

If it is as hot there as it is here, you'll have to do a second application soon.

Glad to hear it'll be back on the road, what all are you doing?


>went a week without my truck while putting in crate motor
>lost my shit having to work through the week until the second weekend to finish the install

It was torture, but holy shit was it worth it.
Good luck and Godspeed KitKat.

What wheels Op they're nice

washed it and washed my new wheels for the track. gotta still polish a scratch on the hood, might do that this weekend

Crown Vic HPP wheel
16x7 5x114.3
Not polished yet in this pic holy shit it was a lot of work to polish them, I just jacked the car up on jack stands and put it in drive, then held some sand paper up to the wheel.
Still took fucking furever.

>I just jacked the car up on jack stands and put it in drive, then held some sand paper up to the wheel.
Holy shit that sounds like something I'd do.
Work smarter not harder.

Looks good

Ty, had to swap the motherfucking axle to get these wheels to fit though, stock axle is 5x108 crown vic wheels are 5x114.3
At least the axle wont explode from the V8 now

>Driving to the Supermarket
>Hear a crack
>Can still use clutch and drive the car
>but the gearstick feels like some wobbly dildo and i can't change gears at all (not even reverse)

Did my car just die??

Made a shitty indicator blank off plate and welded up some rust holes

245 bro here. I'm working on getting a set of GTA wheels!

I asked before, but do you have pictures and details on how you did the 8.8 retrofit?

Thanks man.

Those gta wheels look sick holy shit kinda want those now lol

The axle wasn't that hard as long as you got a welder and a grinder, the hardest part is cutting off the old perches and mounts and welding them onto the new axle tube, that was pretty terrible desu.
If I had to do it again I'd use an oxy acetylene torch or plasma cutter to remove and trim them up to fit the 8.8
But yah I basically just cut the brackets off the old axle after taking tons of measurements, I cut them off with a sawzall and then trimmed them up til they fit nice and matched the radius of the new thicker axle tube.
After I trimmed them all up I put the axle in the car and set it dead center exactly where it needed to be, at the desired ride height, then you tack weld all the brackets in place, pull the axle out and weld it all up.
Adjustable pan hard rod and torque rods make it easy to dial the axle into place after you get it back in.
I actually made a video on how to convert your stock panhard rod and torque arms into adjustable ones but haven't uploaded it to YouTube yet.
I'll upload it shortly and link you.
Sadly I didn't get any video of installing the axle :(

Awesome! That's a decent amount of work. I have IPDs adjustable PHB and torque rods, just swapped my rear for a low mile one, but I'm still getting some vibration and suspect the u-joints. I have another driveshaft that I'm going to swap in and see if it changes anything.

Did you consider chopping off the axle tubes from the 1031 and welding them to the 8.8 center section? I also have an '02 WS6 and the stock 10bolt rears are toothpicks, you could spend well over 3k on a 9" or 12 bolt, but theres a guy in Texas who's done over 100 retrofits using that method. I'm considering that option but having a guy whos I worked with at a large machine shop, he's a top notch welder.

Yeah, GTA wheels are awesome. I wanted to buy a GTA before my WS6, but the guy down the street wasn't giving it up. Thankfully, because the WS6 is a much better car, but the GTA is still bad ass. Pic is MrBrown on Turbobricks, his build is awesome. Pretty much everything I want to do to mine.

>Did you consider chopping off the axle tubes from the 1031 and welding them to the 8.8 center section?
I definitely did not consider that lol, is that a thing people have done?
I just tossed the whole ford everything including the disc brakes in there, it all worked out perfectly desu.
Still haven't figured out how I'm gonna hook up the parking brake but meh not really a priority.

I'm also having some vibration but only when accelerating from a dead stop, I think it's the tires rubbing when the car squats because it goes away when I get over like 10mph and it doesn't happen at all over that speed.
I also trimmed 3/4 of an inch out of the drive shaft since it was too long after installing the 8.8, but if you're going v8 you'll want to throw all that away and get a custom drive line installed anyways.
Furgot to mention, make sure you set your pinion angle before you tack those brackets on when it's up in the car.

Never got an email from you lol

Probably rebuild carb, I got a new fuel pump, new fuel filters, resetting for altitude, new lock kit so I can actually lock the doors, I got a new heater core I might actually have a heater.

Then just have to check the points, replace the plugs and pray to the carb God's that I didn't fuck anything up too bad.

I won't have time until my offday on Monday, but I just got my first car and I plan on fully cleaning it on Monday evening (my off day).

So far I've got
>Armorall Carwash (orange liquid)
>microfiber towels
>2 buckets
>Black Krylon satin spraypaint (going to paint some rockerpanel rust, $1500 car so inexpensive fix. Is there a primer for this to really make it stick?)
>a hose
>Windex for the windows
I was thinking about claybar and wax too, any thoughts on that?

Got my EWP, distributor, and wires in.

Ran the wires, installed the EWP on my old pump housing, and installed the new distributor.

I still have to notch the fanshroud for it to fit, and run wiring for my EWP. But she'll finally be alive again after a month of sitting. Feels good mayng.

Still have to finish up a little bit more but it's progress.

Going to get a quote to see how much to fix this damage. Depending on the number, I might just buy the panel myself and do all the painting.

Bump

as a car audio master installer, that is the proper amount of deadening material to use under the deck.

good job man, you didnt use 200lbs of dynamat on your car, ive seen niggers with that shit all over in layers made the pioneer HU light look like a cop car at night

I was surprised how little you actually need. I ordered 36sq ft and have only used like half that. Some neat stuff for sure.

nothing today, but my fingers still numb from sound deadening the floor, doors, and trunk a few days ago.

What? Did you not use any tool to put it on?

I just used the handle of a screw driver.

What is the actual correct processes? I tried learning about it in order to quieten my noisy as shitbox but there is so much information, so many different methods and a shit ton of 'here's my product, it's best' online.

got rear ended ;_;

JESUS THAT'S SO MUCH.

Literally Like 50% surface coverage on flat, hollow, or thin pieces will produce results it seems like. I just went around tapping with my finger figuring out problem areas, Threw some neatly cut deadening on it and then tapping again. Just that did wonders, not sure if that is the process, but it seemed to have worked. Most spots are common sense.

What happened user? Is your car alright?

rear ended in a parking lot. cleaned it up and got the other cars paint off.

yea i used the rubber handle of the screwdriver along with plastic clip removal tools to reach inside the doors. i was going to get a roller from Amazon but it wouldnt be delivered on time so i said fuck it.

amazon.com/Dewhel-Universal-Molding-Removal-Interior/dp/B01D2IHPHW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1466200498&sr=8-3&keywords=clip removal

I hit a tumblweed and scratched the fuck out of my bumper. Calling shops for quotes.
>feels bad man

keep in mind, if you sound deaden the inner door skin, it will reduce metal flexes, thus making your doors more prone to dings and dents. i live in a fear now, so i try to park my car far away from others, or in big parking spaces.

if you want to reduce road noise, MLV is probably the better choice over sound deadening materials since MLV has a sound barrier and absorbent application to it. Better yet, do both if you have the budget.

What have you done to me.

I didn't have one either I'm not paying $10 for something I'm gonna use once. I do wish I had more vinyl gloves, that butyl rubber/adhesive stuff is like fucking herpes, it does not come off

MLV Is fucking ridiculously expensive comparatively. I'd consider it to have some diminishing returns in regards to cost.

Maybe if you use a spray on deadener. If you really think a stick on deadener inside your door is going to make it less resistant to dings then only use the adhesive part on the outside edge of the piece as I expertly illustrated

Would that work though? I though the whole objective of the stuff was to reduce it's ability to move and therefore it's ability to resonate. Wouldn't doing this, especially on a concave surface severely reduce its effectiveness.

>this truck
>not bagged

do you want to look like an old farmer? or is that cool in California

my trans am is completely sound insulated with "frost king" DUCTING INSULATION

stick on aluminum vinyl. cheaper than any other brand on the market and has no smell

its just like dynamat, only thinner and without the logo. MUCH MUCH MUCH cheaper

>Better yet, do both if you have the budget.

That's what I was thinking but I couldn't find out exactly how you're supposed to apply the layers. Doing it that way, are you better off sticking one layer over the other or does that not really matter? 30% coverage of the material is what I read in a few places.

well, if the objective is to reduce road noise, that could work, but again, the inner door skins on most cars arent a flat surface like the picture he drawn. on mine, i had to cut into multiple pieces just to get about 70% coverage.

if the objective is to improve audio sound, then that may not work very well.

well, the sound deadening material is mainly to reduce resonance, so just stick it wherever the metal feels flimsy. for MLV, you need to cover as much as you possibly can since the more coverage translates to less road noise.

>bagging a truck
this is the 21st century. its okay to just come out and say youre gay already

>completely gut interior
>clean every single panel
>removed all oem carpet (DISGUSTING)
>removed all oem sound insulation (200lbs of wet)
>"dynomatt" every inch of interior, multiple layers in some spots
>use gorilla tape on the seems
>mainly over drivetrain tunnel
>replace carpet pad with very light cheap black automotive carpet from walmart
>reinstall all interior pieces

>still hear every pebble as they hit the back of my car because the tires stick past the fenders


but it cruises like a Cadillac on the highway. perfect for muh audio syztm

>muh truck hurrr durr

yeah it looks like some old piece of shit you pulled out of a field

I don't think gays like classic trucks desu lmao

Luckily I only really stuck it to mostly interior metal pieces and the inner side of the skin saw very little deadening (due to Mazda's WTF door design). It did still do what it was supposed to do. It even changed how the doors sound when you close them, thought that was pretty cool

boomp

Swapped this old thing out, filled it up with AC gas, minor small fixes like a loose heatshield and cleaning the glass/inside of the door & lubricating as the glass was scratching and also seemingly having a bit of a hard time moving up and down

Fugg

What is that? Looks like a tie rod

and that looks like a mexican cut all the springs out

Checked air preasure

why did you replace the whole steering linkage and what car do you drive?

It's 100% stock with the original twin I beam. I do use it for truck things.

That being said, at some point I will do a cvpi front suspension swap and lower the rear by taking a few leafs out after I put a proper motor in there

It's an old pos I pulled out from under a tree. Interior is mint, the thing just has loads of character
>Pic related
>Said tree

The pin striping here ruins it desu but otherwise that's a sick truck.

Cleaned the wheels and removed the plasti dip from the nerf bars

>living in southern california
>35 minute commute
>you will NEVER rationalize having a 10mpg old truck

feels bad

it actually is cool in northern ca and certain parts of sd county where there's farming.

no open spaces in la though

Stripped and hauled my enduro and demo car from last weekend to the scrap yard.

How much is your current dd valued at

Also
>Socal
>35 minute commute
You got off easy

And my old woods truck too. At least its drivetrain will live on.

Made wheel soup

washed her and made sure i did a good job

Pretty much the entire assembly of inner and outer tie rods

1998 C-Class
Got a fault on the inner right tie rod on mandatory inspection, and a store online were selling the entire assembly quite cheap, so I thought "why not just replace it all while I'm at it"

Did you have vibration while stopping or something?

replaced the bonnet release cable, because the part that holds the plastic lever in place was broken
ended up taking way longer than i would have liked.

Nope, just worn. Had it been that bad I would have noticed it sooner myself

System here works like this; you can get three levels of fault.

1-fault: minor problem, passable. Airbag-lamp, license plate light and other small stuff. Does not have to be fixed, but its recommended.

2-fault. More vital stuff. Suspension, brakes, non-functioning lights/indicators and other stuff that makes the car less safe to drive or more polluting, but still driveable. These will have to be fixed and the car re-inspected. My tie rod was a 2-fault.

3-fault. Vital stuff. Completely shattered suspension, rusted out frame, bald tires, completely non-functioning brakes and so on. Car is not allowed on the road again until fixed and re-inspected

Ah, kinda blows. at least it's an easy fix.

Didnt take long, although adjusting the assembly down to 0.8mm difference using only flat steel beams & measuring tape took its time

Yeah that's aids, I've always heard it's easier to count the threads.

I find australian architecture to be very strange.

Myeah, but you also have to take into account wear over time, and OEM vs 3rd party. All the tie rods were factory Mercedes from when the car was new, while the new assembly is Bendix manufacture

Oh, yeah that'd definitely be a factor.

My car is used and apparently had a minor front end collision that required a new bumper. It is just ever so slightly off, you kinda have to pop it into place. Aftermarket parts are fucking weird.

not sure what you mean
i find the urban infrastructure much more strange

it's like a weird mix of Florida and britbong

You basically just described Australia
>Fucking hot
>Filled with weird brits

now that you spell it out, that's exactly what it is

yeah, but its funny to see them combined because you have florida like climate but with touches of britbong cold climate.

like a palm tree next to a hedge line. and a stucco or concrete exterior wall with a britbong shingle style roof.

Cleaned polished waxed. Pollen filter changed

nothing

Nice. I REALLY hate tan interiors though.

It's sandbeige, and should be the only option for a Porsche

There's not even any contrast in there. I hate it.

do i see some SLIGHT holograms on the right there?

So I bought a used car with some decals on the sides. They look too boyracer for me, but I figure they're more trouble to take off than its worth. That being said, how do I clean/polish/wax a car with decals? Do I ignore the decals entirely? Wash around them? Wash them but only polish and wax the body?

Got my wheels balanced.

Then had to hit a curb to prevent from crashing into an idiot coming half into my lane right on my way back home ...

Just take your time around them, wash parallel to the edge so they dont peel up.