What's this shit on my car?

i bought this car with this original silver color you see here, it got into an accident and for some, i think the insurance cheaped out on the paint or something for reason reason the underneath is blue.

a full vehicle repaint is something you should leave to the pros. and not maaco.

Go through an autobody instruction course (year or two) and they'll tell you what grit to use.

rickwrench.com/index79master.htm?http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html

it was done in korea, fuck those cheap bastards.

>texas license plate
>paint job done in korea
>probable cause military
Why the fuck would you take your vehicle to korea? knowing this you probably took your family over there too, you poor fuck. koreans always fuck military over cause they know they have the money and won't care since they'll be gone in 12-24months. congrats.

i bought it in korea, because i lived in korea you big black nigger. why are you an asshole? and are you dumb as fuck? this pic is taken i'm not in korea

>buying an american car
>in south korea
what the fuck did you expect dumbass, you bought a used and abused abandoned shit escape. also i was stating you brought your vehicle back from korea, but yeah.
YOU NO ENGLISH SO GOOD YEAH

it was a new car , herp derp, i'm racist, im fucking murican you dumb nigger.

>thinks everyone's a nigger
>texan
>shit english
>bought it "new" with "original" silver color
>yet underneath that shitty enamel paint it's blue
Anyways, it looks like they went with only one coat of shitty enamel paint without applying a clearcoat on top of it, that also happens when you leave your car out in the sun too long, can cause that rough texture type feel on your paint cause of that
only way to get rid of that is to take it to a shop so they can sand it down, prime it, and respray it.

>"it was a new car!"
>clearly repainted

The part that's really baffling to me was that you bothered to bring a beat ass Ford Escape with you back from Korea, literally why

Usually when you see paint changing shade to be darker, that means it is wearing so thin that the underlying color is showing through. Since primer is often dark gray it could be primer. But if it is another paint color and not primer, then it is obviously the korean version of "SUB maaco cheap repaint" that is not even up to the standards of Maaco. They should have sandblasted that paint down before repainting but were too greedy to sell it to some american they can tell lies to. You lived there. You know how ruthlessly they love money and how their culture supports darwinism.

Anyways, I hope the clearcoat and paint of this car was not the result of someone giving you bad advice like "Use this polish".or "use this cleaning wax". Both of those have abrasives that wear coatings down in order to remove swirl marks. The proper way is to apply non-abrasive waxes to fill in the swirl marks caused by tiny circular scratches from an orbital buffer that a lazy uncaring detailer used.

For example, Veeky Forums sometimes has reasonable waxing threads, even if they were started by one of our chronic trolls. Read through thread as an example of a mix of trolling and useful info. The purpose of clearcoat is to protect the paint from both wear and oxidation. It does a pretty good job as long as it gets an occasional wash (removes acidic grime) and wax (restores some oils, adds UV protection, adds sacrificial wax coating). Cleaning wax is more a remnant of the old days before clearcoats when epoxy and enamel paints were the main types. Around the 1980's you saw clearcoats taking over from the enamels.

Anyways, if you don't mind ename repaints, consider reading this thread:
archive.4plebs.org/o/thread/15268892/#q15268892

Follow the links in that thread too for that forum discussing repaint prep work. With repaints, almost all of the labor is in the prep work. Really. And of course, that is where maaco and cheapass repainters lack.

As sanding goes, the professionals don't start off with sandpaper. They sandblast the layers off until primer gray shows. They don't blast down to metal unless it is a lazy abusive trash shop. It takes some skill to get down just to primer gray without hitting metal, but I've seen it done to one of my old cars many years ago. Once primer is shown, they hand sand it in some spots and blocked off areas where it is not convenient to blast. Of course, the windshields are all off. That is part of what makes a true good repaint expensive and in the $3000 region. You grit your teeth and pay it only if it is sentimentality because a lot of times an old car is not worth the repaint job. The paint shop will tell you that before they start.

And that's one way to easily spot a cheap repaint. Look at the windshield edges and if the paint seems strange, it was because it was because the glass was taped off instead of being removed. If you're repainting with enamel, I'd not remove the windshields. Just use sandpaper to scratch down there as best as you can. You will use a fine brush to prime very thinly and paint later. If you take a paint shop course, they would tell you to touch those up with paint first before you paint the rest of the main body. You then go in with a brush after the main painting and remove excess paint with the fine brush so that the gap shows between the edge of the window and the body of the car. By doing so, you can sort of make the repaint less obvious.

I found my observation of the repaint process educational as expensive as it was. It's expense convinced me to take a day off from work to watch and see what I could learn from it and the paint shop obliged me by doing the work while I was there rather than at random times in the day when they felt it was most convenient for them. The prep is slow without tools and fast with tools like a sandblaster.

It's not a car
It's a truck

>It's not a car
>It's not a plane
>It's a truck
At least you don't need kryptonite to take the old paint off.

Enamel repaints don't need clearcoat?