Finally got my block back from the machine shop

are those uprated rods?

I am considering setting up a laptop and streaming the build
Or doing a time lapse video
or both

Not really sure
It was an ARP rod bolt too....
maybe the constant over reving lol
It depends on how much work you are having done
Just make sure to replace EVERYTHING on the head
Bolt snapped, It didn't back out
Those are Eagle H Beams with ARP bolts or studs (I forget honestly)

>It didn't back out
Doubt...
What bolts did you use?
>not using rod studs

ARP Bolts/Studs come with those rods
let me go snap a pic

when it snapped the bearing went all to hell as the rod cap bent off the other way

I got a b18b1 1996 acura integra GSR, im looking to take the engine in to get re-machined. how much do the average rates cost to do all of that?

>Time to clean the hell out of it
You didn't have it boiled out desu? For shame.

Well you're committing to a shit engine for one

After being machined there are metal chips EVERYWHERE
and even after being cleaned a block still has gunky shit in the oil passages
let me show you my parts list so far
you won't need a lot of this

I had the 4.0 straight six in my Wrangler bored and surfaced by the local NAPA machine shop a few years ago. When I got it back it was fully prepped and wrapped in plastic, ready for assembly.

did they bore match and line bore it?
or did they just hone the cylinders and clean it? lol
also, if you have an iron block they can acid dip it which cleans shit up nice

Jesus their qc is shit. Hard to tell In that pic but that bolt definitely looks defected.

all things considered I don't blame the bolt, A million factors could have lead to this
Most of which was probably cracking 8500+ RPM in an engine that was factory red lined around 6500

They did the full shebang on it, I had a piston skirt shatter and jack up the cylinder wall so they bored them all .030" over and trued up all mating surfaces. That's true, I did forget that they cleaned it with acid as well. It looked brand spankin' new when I picked it up.

I'd watch the time lapse. Engine build videos are comfy.

youtube.com/watch?v=wKNhjBNTA-I

Eagles usually come with ARP bolts.

They're made to use the rod bolts, not studs.

>How difficult is a head swap
It's a pain in the ass with an open deck like OP's. They love to blow that gasket.

Block cleaned
Crank cleaned
crank bearings plasti gauged and installed
one piston fit to rod and checked for block clearance (you have to notch the d16a6 block for Hbeam or Ibeam rods but apparently not the b16)

>black and white picture
why

to make you cry

>Most of which

this guy

>inb4 $10,000 on a b16

>$10000 on a fwd honda

if that is all you are concerned about, do not get into road racing.

That's why I got into off reading.

So I can spend $4000 on tires.

free engines too eh?

Yep they usually come with the truck actually. It's sort of a package deal.

>maybe the constant over reving lol

It would have done the big end bearing first, then the constant hammering snaps the bolts.

Either that or you didn't torque it correctly, or didn't clearance the big ends correctly.

What did you clearance the mains to?

How are you not bored of a 100hp car yet?

Ay yo u don't know shit. It at least makes 125

Wow, that's pretty close!
Right now it makes 0

Piston Ring Day is a very dangerous day

...

>They didn't hot tank his block

Aluminum parts cannot be cleaned in a hot tank as they will dissolve.
seriously
I hope you do hot tank an aluminum block

top kek

almost done with the bottom end
I need to pull the alternator brackets and paint them

>maybe the constant over reving lol
Yeah that would do it

Blew top and bottom end on my old pos.

Then i got a ls1 v8 that revs to 6500 stock LEWL

lets just say it burns alot of oil hahaha

What did you clearance the mains and big ends to? I asked before but you didn't reply.

>putting time and effort into what amounts to only half of a real engine.

noice werk opi, i have a del slow with b16a2 swapped in it. its a pretty good, that no torque is true tho

more torque than the d16a6 though
do you mean what clearance the main bearings have?

youtu.be/kRam2hopijg
Did a short test video here...
The full thing is like 14,000 images or something
wait, that's just the first sd card

Yes. What clearances did you set on the mains and the big ends.

Did someone cross thread the piss out of that?

why didnt you hot tank thaat bitch?

Can't see shit of the engine

why does that guy keep masturbating

Because it is ALUMINUM
please read

no, the bolt snapped and pulled out

...

Nice blogpost faggot

>i'm putting a b16 into a cr-x
neat
>here's the rest of my life story
gif related

I love how you guys bump the thread by complaining so much

I love how you don't answer my question on clearances.

Yes, I plastigauged the mains and the rods

Yes, and what were the clearances then?

within spec? lol

Wow. So you don't even know? Why are you building a "high performance" engine and not even doing it properly.

You seriously
like legitimately expect me to have the bearing clearances memorized?

Yes. They aren't hard. Plus they should all be the same if you are serious about the build. I still know the clearances from the last motor I built.

Mains were all about
1 - 0.038
2 - 0.038
3 - 0.038-0.051
4 - 0.038
5 - 0.038
This is plastigauge we are talking about, so everything is close to one of four measurements on the paper strip
The #3 journal is supposed to be loser and was
Satisfried?

That is way too loose
Enjoy your spun bearings pleb

Duuuuude
Wtf man

why not just use f20c or f22c? forged internals, high compression and built to take a beating I know they spin the wrong way but isn't there a workaround for that?

Plastidip is a horrible product.

Just do it right with the right toolside. Caliper/micrometer/etc.

Plastidip?

do... do you guys not know what metric is?
Who is plastidipping ANYTHING?
Because I wanted a 1.6L engine for the weight advantage in the class I race in

why is it so hard to get a 28MM crush washer that is in 5 places on my engine including the freeze plug?

Use tape

>the this guy's doing all this cool shit and all I did last weekend was replace a bent valve in my pickup and start in on a timing job on the other

I am probably going to anneal the old ones and use red loctite on the caps

1.5 thou, seems about right if accurate. How about the big ends? What are you planning to rev it to, and what oil?

I honestly think your snapped rod bolt was from incorrect big end clearnace, or detonation that destroyed the big end bearing.

You don't need a crush washer, just use a standard copper washer.

these washers have a specific ID and OD
there is no "standard" off the shelf item
they fit inside of a recess

What a pain. Just get them genuine.

well they are on order, I really wanted to get the rear cap on so i could mate the block to the trans already

In Arizona I had my block bored 2mm over and had the head decked for 125$ .

Very happy

give me dimensions and I can make some out of 110 copper tomorrow

34mm OD
28mm ID
1-2mm thick

Most of my cost is not from the machine work
Albeit I did pay quite a bit for it he did polish and balance the crank, drill and tap the oil passages in the crank, line bore the mains, deck the block, bore match the cylinders and hone the block