Qtddt

Here, also see this Just don't bother. There's no benefit and you likely are fucking things up by "downshifting" into 3rd.

Hey guys is this too good to be true?

carsforsale.com/vehicle/details/19861490

2003 Audi A4 with less than 100k miles for $4500.

It's pretty legit. In my area on CL there a tons of A4s for under 6k

Is it possible to pull hektic skidz in an A4 Quattro?

Engine will bolt up.
Torque converter>back is compatible.
Electronics is the big thing.
351 manifold, carb, distributor, ignition system (msd control box/magnetic pickups or points)s the minimum to go to '78 style.
Or thou can transfer the manifold, air meter, harness, computer to the '78.

my falcon blows a fuck loads of smoke could this be a blown head gasket is my car kill? I know it runs rough af but i get the feeling this could be worse than just that

I need help with the stupid brakes on my stupid mazda Veeky Forums

>new master
>rebuilt calipers
>new flexi-brake lines

Didn't bench bleed the master because i'm an idiot but i am getting fluid with no bubbles at each corner... BUT the pedal is going to the floor and the FR caliper is not doing anything (FL is applying slight pressure)

Airlock in the master cyl? A possibly poorly rebuilt FR caliper? Still air in the lines? There are no leaks anywhere so its not that.

Any suggestions are welcome as i'm completely out of my depth with brake shit (fuck i hate brake fluid)

Usual rule of thumb is

>white smoke = water
>black smoke = fuel
>blue smoke = oil

If its started just spitting white smoke out and running like shit i would lean towards head gasket. Water in the oil/oil in the rad will confirm this (but google some other symptoms)

Looking at camaro Z28's, the 1974-81 models, what year is the best all-around?

Would it be safe to use cheap ebay led headlights in place of halogens? any experience with them?

got my car used from a dealer and its running stronk

This guy
is wrong.

The 5.8 in the 90's is the 351 windsor. It uses the small block bell housing (300, 302, 351w) and completely different engine perches.
The 400 uses the big block bell housing, and as such the only engines that would be "drop ins" are the 351M(which is a destroked 400) and the 429/460.

Is the truck an auto or a manual?
The C6 auto transmission does not have a removable bell housing, so you would have to swap the entire transmission for one with the small block bell housing.
If manual the bell housing is removable, so you would need one of those, a manual flywheel for the 351w, and a clutch to match.
The engine perches would need to come from a 73-79 4x4 ford truck or 78-79 bronco that came with a 302.
As far as fuel injection goes you can keep it or go back to carb.
If you want to keep it, you need to bring over the whole fuel system, including the tank, and of course all the computer junk.
swapping to carb requires a new manifold, possibly a new distributor if it isn't already a duraspark system, and either a low pressure electric fuel pump, or a front timing cover with provisions for a mechanical fuel pump and an eccentric to bolt on the cam gear to drive the fuel pump.

Thats all the big stuff.

Indeed. Went through this when I built a 400 for my 390 galaxie and didn't have enough fore thought to realize ford made three different patterned C6s.

Here.

Recently, my 400 blew a head gasket cuz I did the retarded thing and didn't do the 50/100 mile retorque. Well I replaced the head gasket and there was still green shit coming out of driver's side exhaust, a constant drip, drip, drip, drip. For about 2 weeks afterward.

Until recently.

It suddenly stopped. Could it just be old antifreeze left over in the muffler? or did the engine miraculously heal itself? Oil filler cap also had mayonnaise on it, but the oil was black, antifreeze is still green, etc. But even the white goop on the cap is slowly disappearing.

Is my Galaxie haunted, à la christine?

Just got a 96 f150 186kmi. Seams to have a slight squealing noise mainly when in drive accelerating at low speeds but I heard it on start-up this morning accompany with the slower engine speed I get with the noise. Having some voltage problems....I'm thinking alternator have been told it could be slipping transmission but it has plenty of power

Might try just leaving the valve open on the front caliper and let gravity pull fluid through for a while

Came to post this. A Cleveland is the only thing that will fit in place of a Modified or 400.

What are the brightest halogen bulbs?

put it on a steep incline park it and run it see what it does. If it isn't making vapor then it may just have had a puddle stuck midway in the exhaust.

Or alternatively pull the headers and see if you still have a leak.

Xenons, but leds are brighter.

I would get them from a proven LED supplier than ebay.

You're looking at the malaise era camaros, anything you get will have to have new heads and cams and cutting out the emissions equipment to make any decent comfortable power.

Avoid anything 305 or smaller.

Guy asking about Camaros; Fully aware of the abysmal horsepower, definitely gonna do a swap, probably throw an LS2 in it for 400 hp. I'm asking if any of the year models had significant body/chassis/tranny problems to look out for. From what I've seen I should gun for a '77 model if I want a good one that escaped the new wave retro look or an '81 for the most current.

Are anons just memeing when they say that sedans and other non-truck cars can carry a lot, like even beyond the GCWR?

Gonna be real here, I recently just threw a grand at a rebuild for my sentra's suspension, after I fucked it up carrying like 1.5-2x gcwr of garlic and salt across town a couple times. Curious if this is unusual or if I was just a complete retard.

Bout to pick up this RX7 with body damage on one side and a motor that needs a rebuild. It's shooting coolant into the overflow tank. I need to drive it 70 KM home. Can I stop every 10 minutes before it overheats and pump the coolant from the overflow back into the fill tube, or will that not work? Also considering throwing some Bar's Leaks in it for good measure.

Basically, the coolant seals are going out, so it's shooting pressurized gas into the coolant system and forcing the coolant into the overflow tank. I'm not sure whether this means that the car will overheat from lack of coolant, or if it's purely because of the pressurized exhaust gas creating more heat. If it's the former, then my idea should work.

I don't want to shell out 300 bucks for a tow. Fuck that shit.

>body damage
>motor's fucked

Do yourself a favor and just wait for a good one to turn up. Or at least one that only has either body or (preferably) engine problems but not both.

Well, even on an immaculate car, I'd be looking at a rebuild fairly soon. I want to do a mild or extended street port. All the damage is on one side, and to be honest I just want a cheap drift car to learn on. It's gonna run me a grand whereas every other manual RX7 is at least 4. Was considering saving up for a turbo II but I really want to work my way up, or even potentially build this car.

Not just spitting, its like plooms of smoke also stalling heaps despite being an automatic

>a grand
It's only worth $500-. And you do more than $300 worth of damage if you try to drive it home.

Fucking Fords. GM SBC and BBC have the same engine mounts, flywheels, and bell housings.

My car low-beams just stopped working, high-beams work fine. I highly doubt both bulbs blew out simultaneously, so I'm looking at a fuse issue right? I'm on an 01 Mitsubishi Galant, how can I find which one is being the issue and replace it?

sounds alot like a head gasket.

I'm trying to freshen up an old single cylinder outboard motor I have, but have very little experience with engine repair. It has a hard time starting up without a lot of choke, and doesn't like to hold an idle if it isn't 100% warmed up.

I should be looking at cleaning and adjusting the carb, right?

What keeps cars from getting to hot when they have flat bottoms from skid plates? If I fully skid plated a truck for off road would it be more likely to overheat?

Also the I6's. Try that with a Ford, amirite?

A carb rebuild would be a good start

Denver for me, sounds like the worst weather is over obviously but only delt with CA winters lolwhatsthiscoldwhiteshit?
Never lived in cold weather and I'm going to change my antifreeze but thats pretty much all I know about cold weather.
>Rust
How long does the salt usually stay in the road? 3times a month is enough for summer there no? And what about coating the bottom of mt car with something?
>Block Heater
Never even heard of this but I don't kwn a performance car would I be fine just sittinf at idle for a few minutes before I drive off?
From what I've heard theres not much snowfall except winter and then not tons.
I know I probably sound like a retarded CAfag (Because I am) but appreciate the input.

It should be the same fuse for the headlights. Something is wrong in the bulb get new ones.

How do I go about taking out the accelerator pedal sensor in an Audi A4?

Does it require the whole pedal to be taken off or can it be taken off by itself? Google doesn't provide much specific information on this.

Body shop says they will replace door. (it was scratched and dented)
Do they move the current electronics (window motors) to the new door? Do they just replace the outside?

I'm wondering if I can request to take the motors if they replace the door.

My rear stabilizer bar is incredibly rusty. I just replaced all of my strut components and end links. Should I buy a new bar before putting in new bushings? Mine are worn and there is a good amount of wiggle. The rear also squeaks now and I suspect it's the bushings.

Why were emergency signal switches behind the steering wheel for so long? It irks me

I'm new to Veeky Forums, aside from just lurking here where do I go to learn about general car stuff and how to do some basic wrenching and that type of stuff? There's so many websites and TV shows and magazines and shit about cars, it's pretty overwhelming.

Because they were a mechanical shift of the turn signal switch for decades and then lingered there for a while after it wasn't necessary for legacy users

Just get out there, pick something to fix, and do it. If you run into a problem, figure it out.

You'll suck at it at first. Things'll break, you'll have to do stuff over, sometimes you'll be walking for a while but over time you'll get better as you learn how to use the tools, things to watch out for, how to research the repair. It just takes experience to git gud.

Aren't those the cars that have timing chains?

I thought with Audi's the chain doesn't go bad, but the parts driving the chain tend to go out past 100k, and can fuck your whole engine up. I've never owned an Audi, but you might want to look into if this is the case.

What's a good paint or paint alternative to cover the metal on an old farm truck?

It doesn't need to be a show pony, I just want to cover and seal the metal against corrosion, salt in the winter and the bearing sun in the summer. Didn't think it was really worth having a whole paint job done

Spray with rust converter to stop the cancer, then seal with any enamel based paint.
Rust converter can be found in most large home improvement stores (Lowes, home depot) and some auto parts stores.

>rust converter
Cool, I'll check this out, thanks

Enamel paint, is that Rustoleum? Or tractor paint? Are all enamel paints basically interchangeable?

Should I get rattle cans or use a sprayer?

And should I spray/treat the undercarriage and wheel wells, etc, with anything? Thanks

Can someone please for the love of christ help me make this thing look semi decent. Im begging

Either fuse, relay, or fusible link. It's very unlikely that it would be both bulbs at once.

Steel that thick shouldn't rust through. If you're worried, just sand it down and paint it when you do bushings

Doing something similar to OP, how hard will it be to wire up and run an 89 460 ford motor and transmission with the ecm and injectors on a 72 Buick riviera. Pic for attention, she cost me 400 dollars

>Tint
>New wheels
>Rain shields
You'll look like a tool, but, you do drive an XB

Why rain sheilds? Jw

Optional, Looks better.
>Small rear decklid spoiler.
>Better exhaust not a fart can.

They sell universal motor mount kits somewhere online, You'll also have to get a custom driveshaft made. Go with some sort of cable shift system for the trans, there will be less headaches than trying to rig up some sort of linkage.

>89 stock ecu and injectors

I'd go with a carb conversion or if you're Mr. Richie Rich some sort of plug and play throttlebody EFI. Getting all that stuff to work, then packaging it NEATLY into the car, well... It'll be a pain in the ass.

I'd also go with a GM style dizzy and alternator. Only to keep the wiring down to a bare minimum and also simplicity. Pic related. Ford 400.

So what I'm picking up from this is its going to cost me a lot of dollars. Because I don't want to spend a lot. I kinda figured I'd just have to weld the motor into place , bolt it all up and it would work. What's a cost expectancy on this project, or should I just rebuild the 455 in it. In which case how can I get pistons a cam and everything I need for cheap.

It cost me a grand total of about $3,500 to put the 400 into my galaxie, that includes the radiator, transmission, complete engine build, etc.

But hey man, check this out... You can get master rebuild kits for your 455 alot cheaper.

northernautoparts.com/ProductDetail.cfm?ProductId=1010

Hey, first post in this board

I live in a country where you have to pay SO MUCH tax (Around 90% for 1.61-1.99L, 135% for 2.0-2.49L and 180% for 2.5L and more) for cars with engines larger than 1.6 Liters.

Are you aware of any research and development works on 1.6L diesel engines for premium cars such as Mercedes E series, BMW 5 Series or Jaguar etc? Would love to have a E segment car. I'll have some good salary soon and can afford a good car in 3-4 years if they make ones with 1.6L

Long shot but does anyone have the pic of a newer Mustang wrapped olive drab with extended wheel arches?

Serious question.
When GM (or any car maker) says the engine/heads are iron... do they mean actually just iron? Or is it some blend of steel?

Thank you

I'm looking for rotors (and brakes) for the rear of my car but i ran into a bit of confusion.

one is 10-1/8" in diameter and the other is 10-5/8"

does the size really matter? or do i have to wait until I actually have it off to figure it out?

I don't know how the hell you found that, totally getting it though. Every kit I found was twice the cost and missing shit like the pistons.

>Does half an inch in diameter of disc matter?
Fucking yes I do. One size of caliper will fit it, and the other one won't. Call a dealer and give them your vin #. I bet they can tell you what size of rotors you have.

Want to turn pic related into a 4wd

Best way?

Selling/trading not an option

That's the only way other than physically taking off the wheel?

They gonna help with a car from 1990?

It's the only realistic option

Don't know the specifics as to why but it is indeed cast iron, possibly due to the fact that the properties of steel change with temperature.

Find a Junked version of that with all the parts you need to swap.

It will still be more expensive and time consuming than buying something already with 4x4

Im aware that it will be expensive

Truck used to be granddads, not trading/selling. But i want that 4wd

Are you aware of the ship of Theseus?

Looking for fun first car
found this
bad idea?

youtube.com/watch?v=OWmxlLbL19k&feature=youtu.be
video

>XB

Sorry bro, not possible

It's 4000 for a shut box 90s car. Go to an auction, pick up a high miles 2011 or newer car, put the 1000 u just saved and get it fully looked over and have anything fixed or buy rims cuz ur young and stupid. Either way go to an auction. Also winning one will give you the biggest boner ever.

Is it ever necessary to put a stronger timing chain on your vehicle?

Ugh i guess i will try and sell it

No. Dude. That's dumb.

Tractor paint. Use a brush if you want that authentic barely-give-a-fuck look.

...

>XB

Sorry bro, not possible

probably the rings.
cheaper to find a replacement engine on bumtree

So my Base model RSX hydrolocked after going through a deep puddle. (fuck rain and fuck CAI's) and it has been very very stressful trying to get around.

After checking with a nearby shop tbe gave me an estimate of $4,000USD for an engine swap.
The car has 120k on the body.

Either I do just that or get another vehicle.

I found a EP3 For 4grand which I can drop down to 3. This one had its engine and its transmission replaced too. The guys trying to break even for the work he put in. Its no upgrade tbvh since its a different vehicle with the same engine.
Its just quicker to get on my feet since I see it at work all the time.

norfolk.craigslist.org/cto/5645796071.html

Or I can get this truck instead which can certainly deal with this shitty VA weather. An hour drive to check it out.

richmond.craigslist.org/cto/5629952029.html

help me choose or what to do. Is my car really worth saving or just get a different car

bumping

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...

...

i have seen so many posts by you
fuck off

Is it too much to ask for help?

Might as well go with the honda

You should be used to it since its essentially the same car, better milage and its newer.

Just try to clean it up they both look like shit but the civic seems like it'll be the easier choice in the long run