E30 for daily driving

Does anybody own a E30 325i? Considering it for the first car I actually buy for myself. (Currently driving a 96 Saturn SL given to me by my uncle) I like the aesthetic and it's obviously has a reputation. My only concern is if it will be expensive to have repaired, or hard to work on myself. Also winters around here are usually somewhat tame but nonetheless I have no experience with a rear wheel drive car in the snow.

Do you own a cow?

>2016
>using anything other than a $400 shiteconobox off craigslist that gets 40 mpg

>My only concern is if it will be expensive to have repaired
No

>or hard to work on myself
No

>RWD car in the snow
Can't help you there.

I always wanted one of these myself. But I am so used to Jap cars and have never owned anything German.

>RWD car in snow
Throw a set of proper snow tires on it and you'll be fine.

I drove my 2wd Ranger in the snow on bald highway tires in Northern Michigan. Just increase the time to do everything.

The following winter I spoiled myself with a set of winterforce tires. Albeit loud as fuck, it handled like it was on dry pavement.

Buy a good one and do maintenance
Buy a bad one and do repairs.

RWD is fine in snow.
e30 is not expensive to repair and not hard to work on.

can't really find these cheap anymore though.

Keep the Saturn and get a E30 as a project. A 30 year old German Car is not a good daily driver contrary to Veeky Forums's opinion.

E30 suspension rundown:

replace the bushings. ALL of them. this is crucial -- the fun handling E30s are famed for is only present with non-worn bushings.

convert your car to M3 suspension geometry:
* install M3 control arm bushings instead of stockers
* most importantly, change the swaybar mount location to the struts and get the right links to match. (this'll mess up the front:rear balance, so get a 14.5mm rear bar )

that's it. despite all the flowery blog posts you see jawing about how special and unique the M3 is compared to the normal E30s, there sure isnt much separating them.

if you're going to lower the car, get offset rear-subframe bushings instead of stock height, to stop excessive rear camber giving you an understeer-prone car (and high tire wear.)

unless you have cash to burn on JRZs or Motons, use H&R springs and get some Bilstein shocks custom valved with plenty of low-speed compression damping.

stock 325i exhaust is already fantastically designed, you will gain no power from a new one unless you're going to get it custom-designed from the headers back.

M3 body parts will not fit, not even the spoiler. and no, a new dashboard is not needed -- this is stuff you replace when you get bored, after you've already gotten your mechanicals solid.

If I ever have the space for a project car, it'll be an e30. I don't think I'd get one to daily, unless you're pretty confident in your ability to wrench. I'm not, so I lease a wrx for my daily.

>there sure isnt much separating them.
except one of the best 4cyl ever produced 20 years before the K20.

How much do you think it'd cost for all those parts, and the labor to get it done properly?
The saturn has a massive oil leak, and I don't want a "project" I just want one car I can daily drive and have fun with as well. Why would a low mileage E30 be worse to daily drive then a newer used car with similar mileage?

Because after 30 years stupid shit that you wouldn't expect to break, breaks.

And if you live in a salt state that "rust free" car you'll find will quickly become swiss cheese, especially a E30.

Take that money on a downpayment for a used FRS/BRZ or Fiesta ST if you want a car you can daily drive and have fun with as well. You can't have it all in your budget.

>saturn has a massive oil leak
That's usually a valve cover leak and will cost you $10 for the gasket.

>325i
>4cyl
Even a retard like you should understand that most buyers want the 6-cyl.

It is easy to DD manual or auto. the m20 in the 325i is reliable (325e has a m20b27). Mine is m20, auto

If you really want to do it and are somewhat new to cars get a running example. even if it idles a bit rough there is tons of online help for that. I started with a car that would start about 20% of the time, and when it did run it ran horribly, and often shut off quickly. Mostly the fault of the PO not caring for it and having things done improperly. you can maintain it cheaply if you buy cheaper parts online. buying OEM/genuine bmw will set you back far.

The engine bay is pretty big and most things are easy to work on. Pretty much every job I've done on it has been accomplished within a day or so. if it took longer than a day it's because I was waiting on parts to be delivered. The timing belt is often the first thing you take care of, and can be pretty daunting to someone who has never worked on cars. stick with it though, and there are video and picture guides online. after that I'd replace all old vacuum lines, coolant hoses (showing age), and the fuel filter.

you could also go for an e36 but then you have other things to worry about like vanos, obd1/some are obd2 i think, and just more electronics in general. but also there will be more of them in junk yard, and more parts available at autozone/oreilly/etc

good luck since you're up north and chances are the car will have rust

The only reason the snow seems so bad is because idiots gas it and oversteer. It might be a little difficult on hills though.

This, if where you live majority of roads are flat, you should be fine.
Experience based advice: do NOT press the brake while cornering. EVER.
Don't gas in corners and you should be okay. I actually felt much much more safe and comfortable while driving in the snow in my E36 than Twingo and Audi 80 combined. Find some back road or empty parking lot and practice.

Thanks for the advice, I think i'll look into at Scion FRS, also I live in Missouri so I mean especially in later years winters have been not a huge concern. Also I have the money to buy a E30 in good condition (which isn't that much money). I don't need to get some steaming bucket of bolts and build it back up.

The angle of the suspension turret itself is different on the M3 mate, so good luck replicating that. The track is wider as well.

its fine if youre willing to put in some grunt work from time to time after you do a full tune up and regular maintenance for an old car including suspension.

Pic related is mine, started out annoying as a daily as it was out of action while I was working on it a couple days each week. But now it's running smoothly and I've had no issues

the thumbnail looked like an integrale
i click and feel disappointed

What problems were you having with it?

Had an E30 325c as a daily driver for about 4 years until about 3 years ago and traded it on Honda convertible. I thought the E30 was great. I would have rather had a 5 speed, for sure. No real problems other than the top leaking a bit toward the end of my ownership. That inline 6 was a wonderful engine. It did well in the snow, as does the Honda. With a RWD vehicle in the snow you need to not be in a hurry, have good tires, and have at least 65lbs of 8x57 surplus in cans over the rear axle.

Pretty much everything here.
Get your timing/water pump done, refresh your suspension like others have said (replace EVERY piece of rubber under the car, motor mounts too), oil change to 15w-40 Rotella immediately, get your valves adjusted, check all your seals, and just use common sense. It's a 30+ year old car, but if you get everything tip top it'll treat you nice. Pic related, my E30.
I overhauled everything I could, and got a reputable BMW/Merc mechanic to do everything I couldn't. The parts aren't a terribly expensive unless you have to order something oversees (my driveshaft), the labor is what kills ya. The good thing is, though, that these cars are pretty dead simple to work on. I've driven mine with no issues for over 30k now, only replacing things along the way as I see them wear out.
I'd recommend an E30 to anyone, except for the fact that the prices are going up and I need a 325is or 318is to compliment my soft top before they're all bought up.

Forgot pic
Woo /hou/

Not him, but the m3 had a 4cyl, but op can't afford an m3 e30, so it's irrelevant

OP is asking about the 325i.

I gotta say, I think these are overrated.
I've never seen a good one in person, BUT thats because finding one thats not beat to shit for a reasonable price in the midwest is basically impossible.

I just think there are better classic cars you can find for the money
>muh bee-em-dubyuh

What would you suggest as a better fun daily driver in the same price range.

Never owned an E30 myself, but I daily drove an E23 for three years and an E34 for one so far and am still currently driving and I can tell you right now that people who say they are unreliable/expensive to maintain have never actually owned one or just had fucking awful luck. There's a massive fan base for all older Bimmers online and E30s have the second biggest behind E36s. Any question or issue you have will be answered by several different people immediately after you post. Parts are cheap and plentiful as long as you do the research to find which aftermarket brands are reputable (and that research takes about one minute because everyone else has already done it before you). Don't know how to wrench? These cars are perfect to learn on because there are multiple well written write ups and step by step videos for every procedure you can think of.

I know this post makes me sound like a BMW fanboy, but that's because I am one. I love these cars and I don't really want to own anything else, unless I can get to a point in life where I can afford something like a classic Porsche or Buick Riviera. Give it a chance, user; E30s have a pretty hefty fanboy tax, but even then, they aren't much of a gamble.

by the way if you arent in america, AWD e30s exist. look for iX trim.

What would you say is a good price for an E30 in good condition.

not op, but i'd like to ask you since you seem to know a thing or two. Does that apply to E21's as well? i'm interested in buying as my first car since they're still cheap and i like how they look. thanks in advance

I have daily driven my E30 for 11 years. Every two or three years I have had to drop about $1k to $1.5K to fix things. I wouldn't trade it for the world though. At least once a month someone wants to start a conversation with me about my car when i'm out and about. Pic is me and my car about 10 years ago. Still looks the same only normal wear and tear of 10 years.

um they exist in America too fucko

I've daily driven my e30 for 3 years and just done maintenance and slight suspension mods.

with 4 cyl models keep the vacuum lines in good condition and they will run forever. mine has 300'000 plus kms and doesn't miss a beat.

with the 6 cyl models replaced ignition components and keep valve clearances in check.

I prefer the 4cyl models because most of the engine is behind the front axle which makes them more nimble. the m42 engine is an awesome revvy engine.

If your worried about engine maintenance then swap an m5x engine in. they are modern, good on fuel make good power with few mods and are dead relaible.

mods for suspension should be steering rack, bushings from condor ( offset FCABs, rear subframe risers, RTABs, shifter bushings), HR sport or race springs and bilstein shocks.

they are fantastic cars just read up on their nuances