QTDDTOT

Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread

>4th of July Edition

>Ask Veeky Forums questions that are either sensible or stupid here.
>Also answer to questions if you know them.

Last QTDDTOT -

Other urls found in this thread:

youtube.com/watch?v=a-Ia0ZJS6IQ
cdc.gov/niosh/docket/archive/pdfs/NIOSH-125/125-ExplosionsandRefugeChambers.pdf
twitter.com/SFWRedditVideos

I put a new intake and exhaust on my car, what do I need to tune? Do I just get one of them things that plug into the OBD port and I'm good to go?

When does it become worth it to get methanol water injection?

How do I make this bitch go fast?

It has a 3.8L V6 in it.

Youll need to get a shop to properly flash your ECU.

Even with the off the shelf Tunes.

increase compression and tweak with ecu

Drive it off a cliff.

When you can combine it with a tune that will take advantage of the lower intake air temperature. What car are we talking about, and what mawdz have you done?

Supercharger, duh.

When you have a shitload to throw away on such things, or when you have pesky mustangs flying into the fatherlands airspace in your airspace and need that extra boost to show him how the Luftwaffe kick ass.

Alternatively, when you've got a boosted engine and no easily available high octane fuel.

What are the chances of a cam belt breaking when it's brand new with only a few hundred miles on it?

I don't know shit about shit so no bully please.

How do I tougay when there are no good canyon runs in Orange County?

Small to none. Smells like improper installation or faulty part.

You need to ask yourself why you live in California or New York in the first place.

It's where my job needs me to be. I'm not a muh prius librul. In fact I'm saving up for an old Camaro to restore .

why is this board almost entirely shitposting at this point? If it's not Corvette vs GTR shitposting then it's Ecoboost shitposting, and occasionally someone trying to defend stance. Can't we have civil discussions anymore?

Each cm adds up 2 hp.

>Can't we have civil discussions anymore?
>"""anymore"""

Did this place ever have civil discussions for some prolong period without someone farting liquid diarrhea in the thread? its like some shithole ghetto with niggas bustin caps in each others asses almost every day of the week. only here, it seems to happen almost every hour (with brief days of peace in-between on occasion).

Veeky Forums and even /k/ seem to be a lot more well behaved (involving the topic at hand anyway) and you don't get the sense that theirs a gang war going on and the gangs have to have their graffiti sprayed on each block and if you call them out on it they assume you're with the opposing gang.

We're the bad part of the city that is Veeky Forums boys and its only ever going to get worse.

shut the FUCK up

That car
>one day

Ha! There aren't any canyon runs outside of Japan dumbass.

Is there any reason to buy an aftermarket clutch (and flywheel) instead of an OEM set? I need a replacement and am wondering if a few extra hundred spent here will be a good idea.

Veeky Forums has always been like this even way back before Treequinox.

And beyond that Car culture emulates the same attitudes and Fandom as Sports teams do, just its with car brands instead.

I get the sense you've never had any car buddies.

When you increase or plan to increase power yes.

Yes, if your stock clutch isn't holding up to the power your engine is producing. So, if you've got significant modifications (or plan to do them in the future) go for an aftermarket clutch.

Lighter flywheel will improve throttle response, but it'll make driving your car harder in traffic.

Does anyone have any good recommendations for shipping a car cross-country (in the US)? I recently moved from chicago to new york but for the moment I'm storing my car at my parent's place. I'm not entirely sure it would make the 12-hour drive in one go, and I think it might be cheaper to have it delivered than pay for a plane ticket back, then pay for 800 miles of gas.

If he has a Dual mass fly wheel it may actually make it easier to deal with in traffic, and be cheaper over all.

My car ran fine, then had issues with fuel pressure causing KR, replaced fuel pump and that's better. Then I was getting spark blowout running a higher boost tune, so I swapped in step colder plugs, and now I'm getting KR but no blowout. I'm running a Cobb OTS 93 map and my car is not stock at all. Do I just need a better tume? Is it my gas (I'm running seafoam in this tank)?

I'm actually laughing really hard at this. Thanks man.

What forums do I hang out on to learn how to work on cars? What youtube videos do I watch? Is there a book out there with instructions on how to work on a given car model?

>opposite arrows on the side mirrors

How are the series 2 Discoverys?
Are they having a reliable V8?

What should I look for, if I'm buying one?

understanding what's in a car would be first step i'd say. like what a differential is, how clutch/transmission work etc.
the engine isn't too difficult to understand. fuel goes in, which mixes with air. that gets compressed by the pistons and is ignited, which delivers the power to the car.
the pistons are powered by the crankshaft, and fire at different intervals. the camshaft controls the valves, which let in and out air through the manifolds. a belt connects the crankshaft and camshaft, which is called the timing belt. there's also other belts connected to engines like alternator (which generates electricity) and a/c pulley (which powers air conditioning).

the manifolds are basically the tubes that connect to the sides of the engine. the exhaust manifold is just pipes that lead the exhaust gases out. after this theres usually catalytic converter/muffler, which are for emissions/noise.
the intake sucks the air in, and is also where the throttle body (which is what your accelator pedal controls) is on. that opens, and lets air in to the engine.

besides differential/clutch/transmission the rest isn't too hard to understand. a differential basically controls how the wheels that are powered are spinned. the clutch stops the engine spinning the transmission/wheels, like if you're stopped or if you're changing into another gear.

the brakes are like mountian bike brakes. hydraulic fluid is pressed in which pushes a piston, which pushes the brake pad onto the brakes. theres also a brake booster that uses the engines 'vaccuum' to make pressing it easier

what do you want to do with the car though? do you mean learn how to fix problems if they ever occur, or learn how to get better performance out of your car?
for performance people have different ways. if someone has an ae86 corolla, they could change cams/timing, make air flow better and increase fuel (more air and more fuel = more power). or just swap in better engine

For the most part understood what you explained porior to you typing it out, not alien concepts. Looking for some "how to" type stuff that actually show me the process, I'm not afraid of tools, do plenty of DIY type stuff and I would like to say I am fairly competent.

In terms if fixing vs hooning a car, little bit of both. Would like to learn fixing first. Thinking about installing a new air intake/filter on my car at the moment just to try something that would enhance performance a little bit.

Fuck all what he said.

What car do you have?

If you have a car that you're prepared to work on its likely there's either a third party repair manual for it or a easily accessible service manual that was made by the manufacturer

If its a common car they are probably quite a few Youtube videos that document various common repairs.

Regardless of that, don't get an aftermarket intake, it won't help your car without the engine first having performance internal parts and or a tune to take advantage of it.

I'm the faggot driving this number Decided to slow down and figure out what the fuck I am doing. My plan is to beat on that car until I have a new DD, then to make that one a fun whip. I think it does well performance wise as is, so I think it could really shine with some enhancements.

and if you want handling performance then better tires, better suspension (aftermarket can control camber and ride height) and weight reduction. it's mostly how you set up the car and knowing what could make it handle better. changes can increase oversteer/understeer, make car roll less when turning etc.
weight reduction is one of easier but more expensive, and you can also change weight distribution

changing the intake/filter on a car can depend a lot on the aero/air pressure areas, and heat from engine where it's placed.

i think the 'easiest' would be changing stuff with emissions they place on car, like better exhaust, if you wanted some more power.
the easiest for actual driving performance would be better tires.

read up F-1 websites or look at videos like this youtube.com/watch?v=a-Ia0ZJS6IQ to get some ideas of what they do to make car better performing.

look up forums specific to your engine/car model and can give idea.. but if you just have a camry or something, get a better car if you want something to hoon in.

look up how to do basic service, change brake pads etc. you don't really 'need' to fix things on your car much until you notice problems.
there's preventative maintenence you could do too, which check the manual of your car and see what has/hadn't been done, and if you think you could do it.
if you don't have anyone that knows stuff, then you'll just have to go by youtube and risk you not fucking it up.

Can someone explain to me why diesel engines are more godly than gasoline engines. Don't they use the same mechanical design, but are powered by a different fuel? If so, then what makes them superior?

>what is top end

they use the same design in the sense they're both ICEs with pistons, cylinders, and a crankshaft, but that's it.
>diesel
uses compression to ignite fuel/air mix
>result: simpler more robust engine that can use combustible fuels with low octane ratings such as kerosene or vegetable oils
>downsides: expensive overbuilt engines, runaway diesels

>gasoline
Uses spark via sparkplugs to ignite fuel/air mix
>result: higher octane fuel with higher compression is used leading to higher hp/l, but lower torque
>downsides: lack of low end torque, alternative fuels (e.g. propane or natural gas) usually require more modification than a diesel

Is it reasonable to be looking for a 06-08 econobox from a dealer for sub 6k?

Also, any model in particular in that bracket that has a good reputation?

My airbag light turns on on the instrument panel after I drive for about a minute. Why?

Land Rover? And V8?
Those are unreliable bro. My neighbor next door owned one last year and always had problems with the AC and transmission even though he never actually went offroad with it. And also he told me about it being too thirsty at times. But who knew he got a beat up one?
The best bet is to go and test drive for yourself and make a good deal.

It uses air from intake to pre inflate air bags. The light means they're ready.

There is some youtube worth watching, but don't take anything word for word, use it as a general idea sort of thing.

Mightycarmods
Chrisfix
Stuff like haggard garage, use not as tutorial, but a real life idea of how you actually work on a car

My dad had a v8 discovery, a lot of little things break, and the electrics are the usual British shit.

But the gearbox should be fine, and the engine itself, while thirsty, is usually a sweet thing of power and torque. They're not landcruiser level, but above the usual Italian car, or a lot of American cars (especially economy and family cars).

Avoid like the plague.

So that was common it seems. What he did was he wanted a V8 to cruise on and went straight from a Corrolla to this. I think he learned his lesson. He even sold his corolla!

There's a hp/torque curve in a car that varies with rpm. Top end is the part of the curve near redline.
In a Miata, from 4.5k-7k RPM.

Pic related, it's the curve from a 99 Miata with the BP4W

Things to look out for in E36s? I'm being offered a E36 318is rather cheap but I have no idea what I should be wary of. 135k kms on it (83k miles).

is it possible to convert a car from drive by (electronic) wire to drive by (physical) cable? Pros and cons of doing this?

Sure there is. You can always use a cable throttle body instead of an electronic one.

Pros: mechanical connection, cannot go wrong
Cons: mechanical connection, which your ECU cannot (easily) think ahead of. Simply put, it'll downgrade your throttle response.

I'm buying my first car soon and I'm stuck between 3 cars a 2008 BMW 550, 2008 Audi S4, or a 2010 MB E350. Which one should I buy?

When you have reached the limit of how much you can get out of your turbo. Then cool down and tune it up. Also high boost rotaries with methanol injection are killer machines.

Also a good idea if you like to launch at stoplights and such. Just make sure your drive it regular or like a granny for the first 250 to 1000 miles for a break in period. Check your clutch pack installation instructions for the correct mileage. It makes a difference in how long your clutch will last.

Id run on a tank with no seafoam just to check. Changing plugs might mean its time for a tune, at the very least you can take full advantage of the plugs. Also telling us your car details always helps.

I'd pick the BMW. The 5 series from that gen is beautiful. Plus dat 5.0 V10.

The S4 of that gen has timing chain guide issues, it's a humongous repair that requires engine removal to service. Just don't

As for the merc, it's cool too. The E350 is pretty tame though with its V6.

Aside from the air suspension, are these things reliable? I'm looking at getting a manual one for light DDing, road trips, ski trips, camping, etc.

Is the Nissan 200SX S14a worth a buy? As a first car that is, will be spending money on aftermarket parts aswell, no rice though.

Is the price for repairs around the same as all the others?

>St. Johns Twist
>Debouncifier
>Lower Intestine

lmfao

Get a manual for your car. Hayes and chiltons both make general manuals for most car makes. Or base editions at least. Buy a dealership service manual if you have the cash. Or get an alldata download or subscription. Join a forum specific for your car and read alot. Then start small and work your way up to big things.

Sounds like an electrical or sensor issue. Might just need the airbag system reset.

Why do people like Honda?

On cold starts my 4cyl idles at high rpm and both the seat and steering wheel vibrate noticeably.
When the car warms up even just a little it smooths out. Just changed plugs, all fluids, filters and checked for vaccum leaks w/ carb cleaner but can't find anything.

What the fuck Veeky Forums? I'm going insane plz help.

>Sporty cars that are still practical to DD
>Tons of aftermarket
>Good reliability and build quality
>Screaming NA engines
>stylish interiors and exteriors

Honda has really lost their way since the 90's though. The only thing they still do well is reliability. Hopefully the new Civic Type R will bring some of the old Honda spirit back.

This is normal lol. The idle air control valve raises idle when the engine is cold to warm it up quicker.

Is 22,000PSI Fuel Rail pressure normal for a Diesel? Is it really that high?

This is long shot but thinking about guiding my exhaust gases into the ocean from my motorboat.
I tested it and obviously I couldn't tell a difference except it was 3 times quieter, solely the reason I want to do it too.
Will it create too high back pressure?
NA Marine staight 6.

i need help with my casting numbers, i think i may be missing some numbers or soemthing because i cant find anything relevant about these numbers on google, am i missing something, are the numbers ground off? i really need some help on this one

Forgot to post pic

Civic Si or Fiesta STi?

>Fiesta
>STi
Summerfag reeeeeeeeeeeeee

I know nothing about marine engines
but I don't see back pressure being a problem
considering cavitation they seem to rely a little more on torque than anything else
Yamaha and evinrude make outboard motors with a hot v that exhausts near the intake snorkel for the water intake

...

Is a mk1 Celica a good first car?

>are audis reliable?
no, and if you buy one you're an asshole
not even trying to be mean, just real talk
>dat 50/50 weight bias and rally pedigree tho...

>200SX S14a
The answer is yes, you should almost always buy a Silvia
>halfway to a sileighty

common rail operates at about 15,000 psi
>still powerful enough to kill everyone everywhere
>cdc.gov/niosh/docket/archive/pdfs/NIOSH-125/125-ExplosionsandRefugeChambers.pdf

it's more apt to say it's a good car to learn how to wrench
>carbs
have fun

check your motor mounts for the excessive vibration problem

Is my fear of doing burnouts in my only car with 153000 miles on the clock justified? I have had too many nightmarish visions of transmission/driveline failure to do it. I'm also a poor college student who can't afford to pay for these or get new tires.

Should I or should I not burn rubber?

>want to do hektik skidz
>can't afford new tires
I wouldn't recommend it
>tire chirping is just as cool
>kinda

I got an odd issue with my grandpa boat.
It seems at idle, certain electrical bits will stop working: windows, the circulation system, and power locks will completely stop working (the airbag light turn on as well). If I start moving, they will begin working again after 20-30 seconds. Idle gets a bit rougher when this happens.

Possibly related, the car stalled while pulling off the street into my driveway. Started up afterword though.

Near the alternator, I can hear a rattling noise that I'm not 100% is coming from that.

Any ideas?

>50/50 bias
more like 55/45 f/r nigger

Not too sure myself m8, but get it to an advance auto parts and have them do a free battery/alternator/electric system check. That should give you some starting information.

Just replaced my spark plugs on my '93 miata. Has 177k miles. Three of the four plugs were wet with oil. I thought it might be the head gasket but the engine is running fine and it's not producing any odd colored or smelling smoke. I'm going to get a compression test on Thursday. If it isn't the head gasket, what else could it be? And how serious is it?

Is my dashboard cluttered?

What should my I get for a first car?

>I am in the process of getting a license right now,

>I'm 19

>I'm a europoor

>am looking for a sedan prefferably

>prefer manual

>a budget of about 7-8k dollars

What should I buy Veeky Forums? I have been lurking a while but I am no closer to coming to an answer.

I want something that is fun to drive, it doesn't have to be spacious so even a coupé works.

If you have 7k Euro you're not that poor.

Guess not, any advice?

Is using used vegetable oil as a replacement for diesel actually viable or is it just a meme?

what do you think user?

I don't know that's why I'm asking senpai :^P

I would not reccomend

Sounds like inadequate voltage at idle and you've got a nearly dead battery. System voltage has to go below about 10v to get things starting to shut down like that. It could be a bad alternator or even the damn belt could be loose. Impossible to say at this point.

>Civic Si
More reliable than the Ford.

Yup. Replace it with tiny Dildos.

not a miata guy, but generally speaking thats more of a valve cover gasket symptom, which is good news for you

I ran on waste vegetable oil for about 2 years. Its viable. I'd call the conversion is an intermediate difficulty level job. The problem is that gathering and processing used oil is very labor intensive (and kind of nasty). It has to be heated, filtered down to at least 2 microns or so and the hardest part... dewatered. This takes work and energy. I want to get back into running veg but don't have the time or space right now. The work and energy the purification process requires also makes the margins small to not there if you were to try to sell the stuff. Thats why the only action in this area now is people making it into biodiesel and selling it as a fringe product that costs more than diesel.
so its a viable fuel, but its by no means a shortcut to free fuel.

this guy don't know shit

could be a lot of things.
check battery terminal connections for tightness and corrosion. check alternator connections, particularly main charging wire. check ground strap connection. Quickly check to see if the alternator belt is good and tight
then go to auto store for free alt/ batt check. if you've still got a problem, you got to take it somewhere or get a multimeter and research charging system basics

Anyone know what wheels these are? It's a 190E promotional image from 1987 and I would love to get a set of these for my '84.

Can conform. Saw a documentary on Vegetable Oils yesterday.

The car industry is incredibly saturated. Would there be any chance for a new car brand/manufacturer?