Clutches

l'm in the unfortunate-fortunate situation of having something in my clutch assembly broken and will replace the whole clutch kit (and flywheel if sensible) while it's open.

And this brings me to the problem. l don't feel like just buying another OEM set but as my car is bone stock otherwise it feels like overkill to get something aftermarket. My car can give 190HP and l'd like to lift it close to 300HP but not much above that. l also want to casually track my car. So would it make sense to get some "stage 1" clutch?
How about switching into a slightly lighter flywheel?

The 2ZZ-GE engine revs up to near 9k so l don't know if a more responsive flywheel would be in place here.

thx4reading senpai shit nigga

If you think you'll be making that power, as in really, not just three CAIs duct taped together, then yeah, go for the clutch.
It'll feel more like an on-off switch though.

"stage 1" as in a stage 1 exedy clutch is going to feel very close to OEM since its just a slightly beefier organic disk. It might not even be rated for 300 crank so you'd wanna double check that before buying.

And since you plan on doing other mods, put a light weight flywheel in there while you have it apart. I have a caffenieted engine as well that revs to 9k and I have a 9 lb flywheel. I can build revs a little quicker than it use to

>"stage 1"

I fucking hate this meme

>So would it make sense to get some "stage 1" clutch?

How about you read what the clutch you want is rated at and buy one based on your goals

>2zz-ge
celica t23?

Yeah

l used the meme-shield quotation marks. What l mean by 'Stage 1' is just the first step up from OEM.
ln Exedy terms this could stand for the Stage 1 or 2 kit. Exedy might not even fit the Celica driveline.

My question just is that would it be a good idea to now go from stock to "next step from stock" while l have to do something to the clutch assembly anyway instead of refitting another OEM clutch for my (future) uses.

It surprises me how much Veeky Forums can find out from just a comment

I just love the Celica

should it be able to rev up to 13k red and like 10k normal?

>stage 1
Who the fuck talks like this? And what the fuck is stage 1 anyway?

common place in the car world

>10 to 13 k

uh, no. How so?

Do you have a Celica since you like it? l have a european T-sport designation of the 2ZZ.

working on my license as we speak ;-;

I might get a T20 then later a T23 but they are expentive in The Netherlands

>commonplace among clueless children who've been sold something they don't understand

no, the oil pump gives out shortly after 9k
you'll have no power up there anyway,

doesnt at 6K the VVTL-I kick in like v-tec huehue

A lightweight flywheel is ALWAYS a good upgrade. I had an 11lb in a Subaru RS and a 9lb in an STi.

Stage one sounds about where you would need to be. If you can swing it, get a stage one clutch and flywheel combo and call it a day.

>look how intelligent i am i'm being pedantic about common usage!

but at around 8.5k the cams cant support it, you can see the power drop straight off. then either the valves shatter, or the oil pump shits out. good luck getting power at 10 to 13k like the previous post was asking

>spending 20k getting your fwd toyota to rev to 13,000 rpm
>make 250hp

watch ur fukin mouth i gotta a stage 3 fiesta st that would smoke ne corvette on the road, watch out fag

just swap it with a 3gt and make 600 awd

Bruh, you can't just increase the RPM like that. Increasing the rev limit on any car is a huge ordeal that requires lots of planning.

no during a car meet I spoke with an owner
of a T23 with 2ZZ-GE engine
He spoke about reaching 10k to get max performance

>car meet
trust me on this, he knows less than the average Veeky Forums poster

Just get 2ZZ straight away. Save for it a while longer if you have to. lf you love the car you'll just be bummed out having a "lite" version of it.

Registration, maintainance, buying/selling conveniantely (having two cars or zero cars for a while) all cause expenses so you won't save any money buying a cheaper version first.

Lighter flywheels are genuinely convenient for DD

Quick and smooth shifts every time instead of waiting for the fucking flywheel to spin down and not being in gear for two seconds between first and second

inb4 stallmasters

Kek

Can someone give me ideas on what could be wrong with my clutch/transmission. So I looked up a guide on how to replace a clutch and I got it off and back on with a new clutch but after I got everything almost finished I go to turn my truck on, and the clutch pedal is impossible to push down like super hard. So I give up for the day and come back in the morning to see if maybe just sleeping fixed the pedal. It didn't, I push too hard and something breaks in the pedal or the master cylinder or some thing, eventually figure out the slave cylinder line popped out of the slave and that's why it was impossible to push down. So I put that in and the plastic retainer on the pedal is broken so I replace that. The pedal still doesn't go down far enough to trigger the neutral safety switch but the truck turns on and moves(kinda). The problem now is that the clutch only barely engages enough to move the car. I'm totally stumped as to why it's not engaging, I already bled the clutch of air. Does anyone have any ideas? I would really appreciate any insight.

TL;dr clutch doesn't engage after replacing it

For a 4 cylinder you might not want a lightweight flywheel as it will allow a lot more engine vibration at low rpm.

idk what "stages" are available for your car or what they mean. But for casual tracking you might want a clutch that engages quicker than OEM. At least thats how I like my clutch.
Also try and avoid those puck style discs. They wear out fairly quick and the friction material is hard on your fiywheel and pressure plate. Not that great for casual driving, though they do engage very quickly.

I was under the impression that heavier flywheels had their advantages as well, or is this not the case?

For instance I know the Fiesta ST's have an exceptionally heavy dual mass assembly

Maybe like your clutch pedal isn't going all the way up and is keeping pressure in the master cylinder.

Why would the slave cylinder line being popped off make the pedal hard to push down. Does it have a quick detach fitting on it or something?

Backwards as freaking fuck

Lighter flywheels are HELL for daily driving.
When you're not on the throttle the car will decelerate faster. You will have to get use to shifting faster regardless of how slow you're driving. You'll also lose gas mileage because you will rev higher to match RPMs for the next gear

Disclaimer - all of the above is an extreme example. As if you had a theoretical 4 lb flywheel

Why don't you worry about getting 300hp before you start buying clutches for it.

Also 300hp out of a 1.8 liter.. I hope you know that means forced induction.