What did you/are you going to do this weekend on your car Veeky Forums?
Pic related, installed pressure transducer and thermocouple in intake manifold, and thermocouple in exhaust manifold. Hooked up to arduino which sends the data to be displayed in the torque app.
Here's the exhaust manifold.
Maybe you should've cleaned your fucking engine bay.
I'm gonna dump out the 10w40 that's in there because it's still ending up in my exhaust and try either 20w50 or straight 50.
On a related note is it really bad to switch from full synthetic back to conventional oil?
Kek it's a 4wd mate, why bother? It's just sprayed up mud.
Nope, that's a myth, can switch back and forth no worries. What engine, whys it using oil?
It's a semi-hot chevy small block. I didn't know Jack shit about muscle when I bought the car (drove straight 6 jeeps) so I just looked up the oil type for a stock chevy from 79 which recommended 5w30. I put that in their and it burned it all up. I briefly spoke to a mechanic who specializes in muscle and hot rods and he explained blow by and compression in older V8s and recommended going heavier and trying 10w40. It burned that too but not as fast. Then I met a mechanic who's builds and races chevy small and big block trucks who gave me a 1 hour class on all the intricacies of the chevy performance small block, tuned my carb for free and checked out my bay for me and my exhaust. He explained that due to being rebuilt and slightly bored out (not a full 383) plus cammed with performance heads and pistons and rockers that my engine was going to have some serious blow-by, it's nowhere near stock specs anymore and needs something like 20w50 or straight 50 race fuel place maybe even some lucas oil additive or a teaspoon of gear oil
Sounds like you have other issues. Have you had a leak down test done? This is always a great first step. Also if it's running a pcv valve setup still, hook up a catch can and see how much oil that collects. How much oil does it go through?
>sensors to display data in a phone app
For what purpose?
Changed the throttle body and replaced some faulty wires.
Doing my first oil change tomorow
I'm worried as fuck that ill fuck something up
n0 h8 plz
Haven't done anything like a block test or anything just a visual and thereshit literally no oil anywhere on the block or pan or nothing. I have a pcv valve One side and breather on the other. I lose like a quart a month
I might flush my coolant today. Not much else to do. How do you like that arduino set up?
Detail it, state saftey inspection is coming up and having an immaculate car to present to the shop soothes my OCD somehow...
Made a hella JDM tyte stance drift coolant recovery tank
Nice
ayyy
Nice mounting.
I like my nos can but it's not big enough. I can only keep it about 1/4 full when cold.
Go slow,
Drain with the filler cap loose and engine warm
Replace drain plug
Remove filter, and check to make sure the gasket came off with it as you don't want it double gasketed
Rub some oil on the gasket on the new filter to make sure it gets a good seal
Replace filter and fill up most of what it recommends in your manual
Turn it on(to propagate the oil to the system and filter) and look underneath for leaks at the drain plug and filter, also a good time to check trans fluid with the engine running.
Shut it off and fill it up to the fill lines on your dipstick. Wipe once then stick it back in before checking so you don't get sloshing as a reading.
Keep an eye for leaks afterwards, but it's pretty hard to fuck up an oil change.
finish doing the rear axle seal on this POS and then see if it'll run
Probably gonna pull the trigger on an ACT clutch. Since my release bearing is dying it looks like a clutch upgrade will be my first mod.
Do you autists really clean your engine bay? Asides from rust I mean?
Fixing a crack in the windshield. Hopefully it works.
Wear gloves, let the car cool down first
Checking inlet temps to see if turbo is being pushed beyond efficiency, also intercooler efficiency. Checking boost as my factory boost sensor has its signal altered, so it doesn't tell me the actual amount of boost. Checking egts so I can turn up the fuel without melting anything.
>How do you like that arduino set up?
Pretty easy to use, I haven't done anything like this for years but it's pretty straightforward. Will probably post some pics of it later when I finish it up.
removed a giant tree limb that blew down in a storm
think it'll be totaled? im not sure how they decide stuff like that. i hope not tho.
trying to rationalize spending 2k on ohlins road and track coilovers for my POS. has WRX tranny / pedals / diff / rear crossmember / brakes. will swap it some day but dat ej22 still kickin
Looks pretty fucked mate.
structural damage = it's pretty fucked
:( man i was hoping to make to around 500k in this guy.
Looks borderline. Depends on how much it's worth, but it basically needs an entire turret and glass, pretty big $$
pulling the driveshafts out of the BMW so I can drop them off to have the u-joints replaced, then pulling the transmission out because the new clutch is coming on tuesday
You don't have u joints in a BMW. They are CV joints. Generally just cheaper to get an entire replacement shaft.
Just replacing spark plugs on my WRX. So pretty much add an extra hour onto the process
I have taken it apart many times
both driveshafts have 2 sets of u joints
Switch out the oil and filter in my car, drove around 6000 miles on a road trip so its needed.
They are CV joints mate.
have you taken one apart? obviously not
You said driveshafts, so I was assuming you were talking about the half shafts from the diff to the wheels. What you have there is a single driveshaft. No plural.
Also, why the fuck would you pull the entire cradle out?
That's not too bad. I had a 91 Mx6 that would burn through 4 quarts a day. Giant white clouds when you'd start it. Looked neat I guess, but neighbors hated it.
Had to get a deal with car shops for used oil. $50 a month for a drum of it.
This is the most Veeky Forums post I have seen in a looong time.
true, it's AWD, there's 2 driveshafts for the front and rear diff
tjat pic was a couple years ago when I put in a reinforcement kit (subframe mounts are a weak point)
:^)
That car was the definition of shitbox
Ah I see, I am an ausfag and we don't have 3 series 4wds.
Vatozone has 20w50 for 5 qts with a filter for like 16 bucks after my discount on gonna try that first before getting the straight 50 for like 6 bucks a quart
Finishing up the engine rebuild on my Legacy GT.
Tonight I cleaned my iacv and for all my efforts it still idles like shit.
I washed it. Pretty much it. probably be a week before i do anything with it again.
i missed up my first oil change, so you probably will too.
Tried to replace the AC clutch on my shitbox, fucking hex screw head biodegraded in my hands and is now totally round. Obviously the little shit is still firmly in place and there's not enough to space to just decapitate.
Must have cursed the germans over 25 times over the course of 3 hours
whew that autismo comment
I'm buying a bike, the Miata has been sitting all weekend in the garage, my plans for new suspension are delayed because of the Suzi, unfortunately.
stupid question, but when would that be needed? isn't coolant supposed not to overflow?
It's a Honda kek. In all seriousness, check the temp sensor with a scan tool. Does the idle change if you switch the a/c on?
If pressure gets too high, coolant goes into the overflow. Then when the car cools, the vacuum in the cooling system sucks that same amount of fluid back in.
Calling it quits. Ordered lowered control arms.
>Needs bushings anyways.
Will get back to it after it cools off some.
>Still have to get the sway bar link off and the bracket
>Still have to pull idler
>Axle doesn't appear to be leaking, debating on replacing the seal anyways as the left side is leaking
This retard forget to tell you to pre-fill the filter, unless you're one of those faggots with a top mounted filter.
who the fuck thinks riveted ball joints are a good idea?
i am SO glad that is not mine
i aligned my shitbox
Same here user, I wouldn't want to inspect a filthy vehicle myself, so I make sure mine is spotless.
Installing shifter bushings to firm up the shifts.
Why are all cars in burgerland so rusty? Also, fuck whoever though riveting ball joints was a good idea.
I disabled ABS / TC / ESP in my Wrangler.
Feelsgoodman.
Did ma oil for my civic, had to shove a screwdriver through old filter to get it out...
Replacing broken fan switch so my car doesn't overheat in start stop traffic
i guess civics are only reliable in the aspect they wont catastrophically fail
This coming weekend I'm going to pull the transmission out of my miata to get ready for my new clutch, and probably take the flywheel in to get resurfaced to get it out of the way. I also have koni yellows, H&R springs and FCM bumpstops in the mail, so those will go in soon too. I'll also change the oil because it probably needs it.
I'm at a stand still til my koni shocks get here, that or I suddenly come into 1000 dollars.
Painted upper and lower aarms for the passengers side last week, pressing in new bushings and ball joints today on a 20 ton hf press. Taking apart drivers side and painting them today as well.
Sway bar links I just cut through since I'll be replacing them anyway and the impact took off the sway bar mounts in about 30 seconds.
It is a big job though and I don't envy it for you, mines coming apart fairly easy and I'm using new bolts so I don't anticipate any problems putting it back together. What's it on?
My upper ball joints are riveted as well, I just drilled through them.
I broke down and bought LCAs with ball joints pre BOLTED in. I don't even remember the brand, but it'll make replacing them a breeze in the future.
This is my winter beater. Well, it was. Due to a series of misfortune events it has become my DD.
Michigan dumps salt like no other. I wanted to sell it this summer and move to New Mexico or Arizona to get away from the rust belt. Sadly my plans didn't workout for me and I'm stuck in Michigan for awhile.
Those look nice. Don't see any pitting.
How much did the press cost? I'd like to own one as this isn't the first time I've required a press. Last time I looked at buying a press from HF it was around $200 and I didn't think I'd require one in the future. I've been wrong a few times since then.
Ended up cutting the sway bar link as well. That bracket though. Couldn't line it back up by hand so I had to grab my f clamp.
Unfortunately, being an AWD Safari van, I haven't had any luck getting my impact on much. Maybe I'll buy a smaller one for maneuverability.
I purchased new uppers as they weren't much more for preassembled units. Never intended to buy lowers until I tried to remove the rivets. First time I've encountered riveted ball joints and it better be the last.
I'm hoping the CA slides off the torsion bar with some ease. After the front end is done I'll be moving onto the intake gaskets.
>Dexcool
Type of project car you working on? Seems you have plenty of time.
Thanks. There's a little pitting in the upper shock mount, but it cleaned up ok. They looked better after paint then i thought they would with a rattlecan job.
The press was 160 after a coupon. They usually have it on sale for 159.99 or a 20% off coupon in the paper. It was going to be 160+ to get the bushings and ball joints done anyway so I figured what the hell. I'll try to sell it after I'm done for 100 or so.
A small Dewalt impact is what I'm using, still not small enough for some places, but I've managed. My compressor isn't big enough for air, it's a 3gal pancake and the cfm is just not there.
I thought about purchasing uppers and lowers myself, but the ball joints and bushings that were pre-installed weren't as beefy as I thought I could get and I don't want to do this again for a long time. Also heard bad reviews about the pre-installed ball joints shearing off on installation. Nope, not for me. I'll be bolting in the upper ball joints as soon as the paint dries.
Working on a firebird. Sometimes a jeep too but mostly the bird these days. I'm on call 9-5 but don't work very often. I did have a pizza delivery side night job, but eh. I keep myself busy with projects and hobbies. I only work a few hours most days on the cars or i start to get sweaty and frustrated.
We got the rig truck stuck pulling out the 87 chevy. My friend has a 350 ready to go into it and we dropped a Ford explorer off at a friends and went to tow the 87 around the side of the house and winch it up onto the trailer but didn't make it that far. As soon as we hooked up to the 87 and started back the rig truck just sunk. Apparently the ground wasn't as dry as we thought.
It's a friends truck, 12,000 lbs 6.7 Cummins with the banks computer upgrade and some huge fucking exhaust I helped put on last summer. Pulls anything you want. Nice for when I need some welding done at the house.
We called his brother, who got stuck.
Called the neighbor who brought a little tractor, stuck it.
He ended up getting the big blue one you see in the background and that got everything out, and towed the 87 around to the front. We didn't leave until after nightfall.
Finding a place to weld up a new exhaust on my MINI. Why not do it myself, you ask?
1. I'm lazy
2. I don't have a welder
3. MINI designed their jacking points in the most asinine way possible. Not safe to lift the car without a lift.
I didn't take any photos, but just imagine a black 2006 Corolla S like any other.
Last weekend I put in new floormats and cleaned up the interior a bit and polished the headlights. This weekend I'm putting on a new rear bumper because I've had a medium sized dent in it for like a year now and it looks trashy, I'm also going to get some touch-up paint hopefully because there's lots of little spots that have been hit by pebbles and retards in parking lots over the years. Then I'll wax it up and it should look brand fucking new.
Also the timing belt is looking a little ratty, so that's next on the list I guess. I did a timing belt once on a 1995 Corolla so hopefully it'll be less awful this time around.
And most of all I need to convince my dad to buy this damn Volvo 850 which showed up on craigslist and looks absolutely beautiful.
Made a skidplate for the brake and fuel lines under the floor, swapped my rear brakes to EBC rotors+redstuff, and fixed the leaking rivets in the roof vent
2006 corolla doesn't have a timing belt m8. Also, you can't see timing belts without removing the covers.
totaled?
fuck, that looks pretty bad. the shitty thing is that if they do total it out, some Ukrainian body shop owner will buy it under a salvaged title and have your car back on the road in no time
>Fixing crack
Just replace it